Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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Crispy

I've been learning how to heel and toe, but I can't get it down. I need help learning it before I get into iRacing. BTW, I'm using the Clubsport pedals. Would it help to move the brake pedal over closer to the gas?
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I'd love to give you some pointers but I'm very erratic with it. I could use some tips myself.
 
BTW, allow me to drift off topic ever so briefly to clear something up: my apologies for jumping on left888 commenting on spelling, etc...this past weekend in this thread. While we may disagree on some things and it can get tiresome to hear his Fanatec comments repeated at times, we're all entitled to our own opinions (and we all make typos.)

As I said in a PM, I was a few drinks into the evening and should not have posted that, my bad. Also in case you hadn't seen it, I caught up to sandboxgod's Elite review and saw left888 praised the review and was looking forward to hearing more about the Elite. This went a long way showing me he's more open-minded than I had given his credit for. Check out that excellent review thread as well if you're behind like I was.

Anyway, back to your regularly scheduled thread already in progress.
 
Hey, we all have good and bad days. The past few weeks have been more of a warzone over here. I think now it's all time for us to cool down, and enjoy the holidays!

@FCTaff-We need more Welsh here. Welcome to our home, GTPlanet!
 
I think I may have be off from Friday around the forums..

Having said that I may miss you guys LOL...
 
Crispy
I've been learning how to heel and toe, but I can't get it down. I need help learning it before I get into iRacing. BTW, I'm using the Clubsport pedals. Would it help to move the brake pedal over closer to the gas?
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First, you do know that you do not *need* to do this to run in iRacing? Some claim that auto-blip cost you .1-.3 secs per lap but in my experience unless you are a consistent front runner it wont effect your standings. If you are just beginning iRacing I would recommend making it as easy on yourself as possible since it is already plenty hard. :)

Second, Thomas recommends removing the block under the gas pedal to make the heal/toe a little more ergo. I did this, moving the block to the back and lower the gas pedal angle relative to the brake.
 
mikemav
BTW, allow me to drift off topic ever so briefly to clear something up: my apologies for jumping on left888 commenting on spelling, etc...this past weekend in this thread. While we may disagree on some things and it can get tiresome to hear his Fanatec comments repeated at times, we're all entitled to our own opinions (and we all make typos.)

As I said in a PM, I was a few drinks into the evening and should not have posted that, my bad. Also in case you hadn't seen it, I caught up to sandboxgod's Elite review and saw left888 praised the review and was looking forward to hearing more about the Elite. This went a long way showing me he's more open-minded than I had given his credit for. Check out that excellent review thread as well if you're behind like I was.

Anyway, back to your regularly scheduled thread already in progress.
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Hey mikemav we're all good, I also had a little chat with Adam and we're good as well. sometimes some of you guys forget I have multiple Fanatec products too. Despite the fact I like to speak my mind, some of you get rather upset when people say anything negatively about Fanatic. (the Fanaticals :D)

In this thread I was defending Darin after someone tried dragging him through the mud from a difference of opinion he had with someone from another site.

The web and a forum is not the best way to communicate, it's too easy to misconstrue words that are typed at a keyboard.

So everyone have a Happy Holiday and be thankful for what you have.
 
redmalloc
What material are they screwing into?

For those who had chronic problems, has Thrustmaster replaced wheels?
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Four aluminum screws that grip into an aluminum bars top side holding down a plastic plate that has a X shape with a PS/2 style socket in the middle.
 
amf7
Someone mentioned you can easily screw it up.. on ISR forums user papa did ask him
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I think I ballsed up...

The issue I'm actually having is the area between the black bits where the wheel connects with the shaft. Basically, where the clear washer is. It feels like it wants to be twice as thick.

If I push on the left hand side of the wheel the right hand side comes towards me. And visa-versa. Nothing major, just a tiny bit of play, but annoying after 2 days of use.

I was just wondering if this was to be expected, and if anyone had sorted a fix (short of jamming an improvised paper washer/shim in there...).

Cheers in advance, guys.
 
I was thinking about using an O-ring to fix it at least temporarily. Please contact Fanatec and let them know about these issues. There shouldn't be any play in the way the wheel connects to the hub.
The more issues come in the more easily Fanatec/Thomas can track down the issues via serial numbers and so on to prevent this in the future and offer you guys a proper solution.
 
Snotgobbler
Yeah, you're right. It's stopped cogging now and just feels awesome in 2011.

One thing, though... I've noticed that my hub is now a touch loose on the column. Not at the black metal bit with the allen screw, but just slightly towards me where the plastic hub meets that metal bit.

Irrespective of what you think about his agenda or impartiality, I think Darin actually mentioned it...

"You like the button placement or the plastic rim? Also, is the hub still coming loose ?"

I'm hoping it doesn't get any worse. Has anyone else experienced this?
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It seems some of the retail wheels are having this issue.
One person commented to me their wheel had approx 1mm of movement at 9/3 positions so Left/Right and not top bottom.

The locking threads are top/bottom on the steering wheel mount to the column, hence why maybe some movement is possible. The Beta wheel I have does not have this issue however I have ensured it was very tightly secured. If it is not fully tight then this may happen so firstly try to ensure both top/bottom are well locked in.






Should be easily sorted. Worth trying a lock-tight susbstance, possible rubber lock-ring. Thomas is aware and some of us have made some suggestions.


Oh and about the wheel rim talked about earlier, it isn't possible to detach any parts, while the rim looks like small sections joined together it isn't. It is more really a top/bottom and with additional covers.





The rim if put under heavy top/bottom pressure can flex slightly. This shouldn't happen under normal usage but can be noticed if stress testing the build of the rim. I do not recommend doing this in case you damage the PCB within the rim shown above. I believe Amar mentioned this "flexing" in his own review...
 
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mikemav
my apologies for jumping on left888 commenting on spelling, etc...this past weekend in this thread. While we may disagree on some things and it can get tiresome to hear his Fanatec comments repeated at times, we're all entitled to our own opinions (and we all make typos.)
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Ata boy. Very rarely do I see people trying to make right.

left888
The web and a forum is not the best way to communicate, it's too easy to misconstrue words that are typed at a keyboard.

So everyone have a Happy Holiday and be thankful for what you have.
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Yeah it's great for topics where everyone is on the same page, it' horrible when there are debates. Simply not reading 1 word can change the entire sentence just as a word being (omitted) can cause some confusion. It's hard to judge tone or intent sometimes if thoughts aren't properly conveyed. Anyway....

@Latte
Is this play in the wheel mount system, maybe with the tightening screws being on top and bottom. Would retrofitting the column and wheel with 3 screws (every 120 degrees) rather than 2 screws, solve this issue? Would a retrofit even be possible?
 
Lets see how many have this issue and after ensuring they are really well fastened tight.
I don't think it will be something that an easy fix cant be found for those experiencing it.
 
VWMasteR
@Latte
Is this play in the wheel mount system, maybe with the tightening screws being on top and bottom. Would retrofitting the column and wheel with 3 screws (every 120 degrees) rather than 2 screws, solve this issue? Would a retrofit even be possible?
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You beat me to it. I was thinking the same thing.

Odd that this wasnt thought of early on. Or if 2 screws was a neccessity one would think having them at 9 and 3 on the wheel would be better as it would always be held in place where the most torques is being applied, directly behind your hands.



The rest is pretty much hypothetical. Please no one read as me stating this is a definitive problem.
Note: i do not have nor have personally seen a csr:e rim

Sure an easy fix can be found, but really shouldnt be needed. I can see these screws loosening up on a semi regular basis. The are acting as a straight line pivot point, the more it wiggles, the looser they will get.
But you are right, time will tell and mayhap a good tightening will be all that is needed. If it is going to be an issue hopefully it pops up very quickly with the first batch if customers so that the next run can be remedied.

Mr latte, is the plate that these screws are attached to on the rim a removeable piece? I remember a pic with a csr rim and the electronics were exposed from behind. Does that cover house the hub that connects to the base shaft?
If so then replacement plates could be produced and customers get remedied on the cheap for fanatec.
 
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LogiForce
The hub is even coming loose on the T500 wheels. Certain users even used loctite without results. So it's not just Fanatec with that issue.
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I thought only one guy resorted to that (I remember cause he was advising me to do it too). I simply used an allen wrench to tighten up my rim and it's been all good ever since. Not sure why he needed to go that far.
 
sandboxgod
I thought only one guy resorted to that (I remember cause he was advising me to do it too). I simply used an allen wrench to tighten up my rim and it's been all good ever since. Not sure why he needed to go that far.
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That's the steeringwheel itself, I am talking about the base side of things.

technology_181a_004.jpg


This thing in the middle hold down by 4 screws. It caused my wheel to have movement within 14 days of use. I read that more people had this issue, don't remember if it was just here alone or elsewhere as well. Also my wheel and that thing don't connect nicely, so every time there are strong force effects I feel a jolt with both the GT5 rim as well as the Ferrari F1 rim.



Also to get back on topic of credibility I want to use Minecraft as an example. Sites like IGN seem credible to everyone, but if you listen to this review you'll know that you need to always question any review for your own good. ;)

 
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Caz
Odd that this wasnt thought of early on.
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This may have been Thomas trying to make his CSR-E users not feel so "small". I read a tonne of grumbling (and rightfully so) that the CSR-E is almost an identical wheel base, but originally I don't believe it had a removable rim. I think I already got in to it with someone in this forum about how the wheels mount, but I still insist that the way you fasten the wheel has nothing to do with connectivity. A plug is a plug and if it's no hot plug hardware then it just needs to be turned off first. The way the wheel is fastened to the steering column has nothing to do with the electronics and the connection being made. If the quick connect works, as we think it does, it should have been used on both wheels. There is nothing saying that you couldn't have put a locking pin or warning on the unit for the CSR-E users to prevent hot swapping. People would have seen the 100 dollar premium on the CSW as something to allow for all wheel mods and extra features in the electronics (additional software does cost money).

Anyway I applaud Thomas for trying to give the CSR-E more possibilities while distinguishing their flagship model, and I'm sure there will be a fix offered.
 
@Logi, yeah we're talking bout the same thing (I'll double check later). I tighten up all those screws with an allen wrench.

Bah I'll double check later just to make certain. But I dont want to bore our Fanatec friends with thrustmaster talk. just assume I'm in the wrong atm. -edit
 
Alright, since I have Philips screws in there, so using an allen wrench is a bit hard. lol

Sorry about the Thrustmaster derailment here guys. ;)
 
LogiForce
This thing in the middle hold down by 4 screws. It caused my wheel to have movement within 14 days of use. I read that more people had this issue, don't remember if it was just here alone or elsewhere as well. Also my wheel and that thing don't connect nicely, so every time there are strong force effects I feel a jolt with both the GT5 rim as well as the Ferrari F1 rim.
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You stated that others reported unresolvable problems. Either you can cite sources or you can't. I am sorry but until you can you lack credibility.
 
VWMasteR
He is the source. Why does he need to have more?
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He corrected his problem by tightening the screws. He said there were others that could not correct the issue even with locktite. I am awaiting a source on that.

Edited: and Thrustmaster did not replace the wheels would be the main point. i.e. Owner S*** out of luck.
 
redmalloc
You stated that others reported unresolvable problems. Either you can cite sources or you can't. I am sorry but until you can you lack credibility.
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Hmm, I seriously must have dreamed that about the screws. I have to take it back and properly apologize in the other thread. But I will do here as well. I made a big mistake and can't find the posts referred to. I am sorry and shouldn't have said it without double checking. I will take this a lesson for myself and do my best to not let it happen in the future. However if I do find anything related I'll also let you know.

VWMasteR
He is the source. Why does he need to have more?
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Red is right I can't find the posts or videos related to the issue in a short period of time. I have to take my words back (read above) for the time being until I find the prove to support my claims.
 
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LogiForce
Red is right I can't find the posts or videos related to the issue in a short period of time. I have to take my words back (read above) for the time being until I find the prove to support my claims.
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I'm confused. Is the fact that it happened to you not enough? Is it the fact you said there was other posts that's the problem?
 
Spagetti69
I seem to have missed all this.
Would a spring washer suffice? What part of the hub exactly?
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LogiForce
The hub is even coming loose on the T500 wheels. Certain users even used loctite without results. So it's not just Fanatec with that issue.
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redmalloc
I have not heard about that. Can you cite your source for that?
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redmalloc
You stated that others reported unresolvable problems. Either you can cite sources or you can't. I am sorry but until you can you lack credibility.
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LogiForce
Hmm, I seriously must have dreamed that about the screws. I have to take it bake and properly apologize in the other thread. But I will do here as well. I made a big mistake and can't find the posts referred to. I am sorry and shouldn't have said it without double checking. I will take this a lesson for myself and do my best to not let it happen in the future. However if I do find anything related I'll also let you know.



Red is right I can't find the posts or videos related to the issue in a short period of time. I have to take my words back (read above) for the time being until I find the prove to support my claims.
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Interesting read, I have two T500's and have no problems. I follow quite a few forums and this is the first I've heard of this problem Logi brought up. Well it's good of you Logi to admit when you are wrong. As we all know no product is going to be 100% all the time.
 
VWMasteR
I'm confused. Is the fact that it happened to you not enough? Is it the fact you said there was other posts that's the problem?
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I did have the issues with my screws in the axle. I think I mixed it all up in my head with sandbox his issue in the past with the rims hub going loose and him using loctite. And I think there was a video somewhere on YouTube saying to tighten the screws when you have the rim off as they can come loose and cause movement in the rim. Which I indeed had but was resolved after tightening and didn't happen again after.

Again, sorry for the confusion due to my mistake of mixing things up most likely. In the end even I am only human like the rest of you guys as well. So making my apologies and correcting myself for my earlier mistakes is the only right thing to do.

left888
Interesting read, I have two T500's and have no problems. I follow quite a few forums and this is the first I've heard of this problem Logi brought up. Well it's good of you Logi to admit when you are wrong. As we all know no product is going to be 100% all the time.
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Acknowledging your own mistakes is the first step to improving yourself.
Also I don't know why some people in this world we all live in seem to have trouble with doing this publicly as I think it is natural as a human to make mistakes. We all do from time to time and thus I can only hope that by apologizing myself you guys will accept and forgive my mistakes.
If I had kept lying or being stubborn about it then I would only have made a fool out of myself. ;)


Anyway I will double check my claims the next time and where needed provide proof.
 
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