Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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Four active rev lights to choose from!! :P

Yeah it's honestly a bit much. I may go back to disabling them honestly haha. Rev lights on the base, Rev lights on the top LED strip of the wheel on the default wheel, Rev indicator in middle, and Rev indicator on the dash in cockpit mode haha.
 
Rev lights on the base
I've already covered the wheel base lights... I have F1 style driving position, so the lights were directly pointed to my eyes. I set two thin layers of grey duct tape and i can still spot the lights, haha.
 
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This is not intended as personal assault at least not the worst kind, but you've never had anything bad to say about the GTS's Fanatec compatibility... You literally praised the compatibility in Fanatec forums in the very first hours after blue mode was released, altough how broken it really was! Since then you've had the same super optimistic attitude after every update.

Question for those superior drivers who claim they never experience the rattle: When exactly does the understeer effect kick in? ...At the point when the tyres are about to loose traction or when completely lost?

Sorry for the long post. I have been very positive because there hasn't really been anything to get upset about and I have had an extremely positive experience. The change from Purple compatibility mode to Blue Mode was a massive improvement in feel and realism. In Purple mode the wheel was just ignoring many of the things GT Sport was already doing with its FFB and clipping even at low settings. The FFB strength in Purple mode with the in-game settings set to 4-5, felt about as strong as Blue Mode with in-game settings set to 7-9. The way FFB is mapped on these different settings is very different.

There has been almost zero change in the way the wheel works with the game since Blue Mode support was first released by PD to now. I have tested it with every single update. The changes have been to the game itself and the tire model not to the way the wheel addresses it. If you think it was broken or is broken now I don't know what to tell you other than I think you are wrong. Or maybe something is wrong with my or others wheelbase or we just aren't experiencing the same thing. The update they made to the understeer effect in 1.28 wasn't just specifically for the CSL Elite, it was for all wheels across the board.

The only time I ever even experienced the understeer "rattle" effect the day Blue Mode support was released, was when I was driving like an absolute idiot and horribly forcing understeer into corners, when you have fully lost traction. And I didn't even find it that bad. I never even experienced it until I read about it and went and tested it for myself. You will and previously could experience a difference in feel when you are slightly understeering vs. not, before you are even close to hitting the point where it shudders. All the way back to when blue mode support was introduced. The understeer "rattle" or tire shudder is something that absolutely happens in real life. If you drive into a corner and crank the wheel like an idiot, you will experience absolutely horrible tire shutter through the tires and steering wheel. The same thing happens when you are sliding the rear of a car around and you force some understeer to get it to transition. I think it is better now that it is lessened in 1.28, but I don't think it was that much of an issue before.


I would imagine most people use low FFB settings which might amplify this effect? The default in-game settings in GT Sport are way too low for the CSL Elite if you want a reasonably immersive experience in my opinion. I use quite high FFB settings because I like to actually have some immersion and experience some tension in the wheel when accelerating down a straight. I would guess this effect was more present for people who were messing with their FFB settings a lot in-game and on their wheel and running much lower settings. I run all default settings on the wheelbase, and quite high in-game FFB settings. I adjust my settings using real work benchmarks that I have experienced myself. I drive an S2000 every single day in the real world. And driving the S2000 in GT Sport with my settings feels fantastic to me. Same goes for the NSX, and other cars that I have driven in real life and in-game. Miata, FC RX7, and so on. You can even feel the difference in steering feel compared to the S2000 and FC RX7, just like you can in real life. I would recommend people to run both in-game settings at at least 6 or 7. I run both at 9. Driving a car fast in real life (at least my S2000, is a bit of a workout, and at these settings the power steering in my car feels about the same as what I experience in game). For some cars I bump my in-game settings down to 8.

Doing the Circuit Experience with the GT3 Aston on RedBull Ring last night felt fantastic to me as well. I have driven GT3 cars at RedBull Ring in the original Assetto as well and they both feel great to me. I haven't done this in real life of course it feels right to me. I prefer the current tire model in GT Sport compared to Assetto I think now though. It is extremely easy to go out and slide an NSX around all day long while still feeling realistic. The way traction loss works in GT sport now makes driving incredibly fun.

I find Assettos model to be a bit artificial, they are clearly amplifying effects for people that like to drive at unrealistically low FFB settings. I find what they are doing to cater more to the sim racing crowd who think every car in the world should have as detailed feedback as an F1 car even with very low FFB. If you drive in Assetto with realistically high FFB settings, it can be extremely jarring. I haven't had the chance to test out ACC yet, waiting for more content to be added, they have made huge improvements it looks like, but GT Sport is still the better looking and sounding game even though it runs on very limited hardware in comparison. I have never driven any sim that feels exactly like driving in real life, but I definitely don't use AC as any sort of benchmark for other sims. Many cars in AC are quite bad to drive, and some are fantastic, so I definitely still thoroughly enjoy driving in many cars in Assetto, but I feel almost no immersion. In GT Sport I find all the cars to be fun to drive, and many are fantastic to drive, and I am extremely immersed. I could care less about driving sims and people's opinions on them, I just want an experience that feels similar to what I enjoy about driving in real life. No driving sim, even full d-box motion rigs don't even come close to replicating the experience of driving a real car quickly, but some do a good job of providing a similar feeling mentally and make driving fun in the same way.
 
I finally got it, after last update :)


For those of you that like to be able to turn and react fast on track, and specially to be able to listen/feel what your wheel is trying to say to you about the track, your driving and the way the car is behaving on track (not surely for those who want to feel like they are driving something real big and heavy.... like an eighteen wheeler, or/and fight a continuous battle against the unspoken will of their wheel), here are my actual best settings for a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 wheel with v3 Sport pedals:



On game setup:

Control Sensiv.: 7

FFB Torque: 4 to 5

FFB Sensivity: 10



Wheel Settings:

SENS: AUT (or better to set it according to car type)

FF: 100

SHO: 100

ABS: 40

DRI: -5 (to 0)

FOR: 030 (to 50)

SPR: OFF or 10

DPR: 120 (to 100)

BRF: 020

FEI: 050 (variable from 050 to 060)


Try (if you dare) at your own risk!!!
 
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There has been almost zero change in the way the wheel works with the game since Blue Mode support was first released by PD to now. I have tested it with every single update. The changes have been to the game itself and the tire model not to the way the wheel addresses it. If you think it was broken or is broken now I don't know what to tell you other than I think you are wrong.
I agree with this, i actually wrote similiar point today in the "Csl blue mode thread".

If you drive into a corner and crank the wheel like an idiot, you will experience absolutely horrible tire shutter through the tires and steering wheel.
This is what bugs me the most, as very often i simply don't get the effect no matter how much i crank the wheel... But, do you only get the effect if you drive like an idiot, or does it occur with just minor overdriving, like in my case?

Yeah as mentioned they have dialed back this effect a bit. I honestly rarely ever experienced this running at pretty high FFB, but it is a bit more natural now. If you are experiencing this very often you are definitely not driving correctly.
So PD did dial the effect down this update after all? It's opposite to what you stated in first quote, altough you did say "almost zero change...", After every update i read here that it's definitely better now or even fixed, but i don't feel the difference...
 
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To switch it up a bit. The complaints I do have about GT Sport:

1. The clutch should have a full range like it does in real life. In reality almost all race car's clutches are basically an on/off switch, but I would like for normal road cars to have a bit more range for sure. I also find it very annoying that many racing cars that have sequential transmissions don't actually give you control of the clutch. I would love to have proper standing starts in GT Sport, and be able to set clutch bite point and all that fun stuff that some wheels now support.

2. The e-brake should have a range as well. Again, in reality, there is a moment where the brake is flipping the switch on locking the rear tires, but it would be nice if there was more fine-control here.

3. I would like to be able to adjust the throttle curve. Many drivers would prefer a more linear throttle. I don't really have a major issue with it. But being able to adjust the throttle curve per car would be great. At least on racing cars with racing pedal systems which would absolutely let you adjust this to driver preference. Again, many drivers prefer an exponential pedal similar to GT Sport, but why not just give the player the ability to adjust to their preference?

4. More FOV adjustment. I love that they added the ability to adjust camera position in GT Sport, but having more actual FOV customization would be very useful. I would imagine there is some hardware limitations or maybe they just don't think people would use this?

5. Ability to get into the really fine details of tire pressure and tire temps. I fully understand why they don't do this as it makes it a less balanced game for competitive play. But I would love to be able to adjust tire pressure and get tire temp data logs and all sorts of things. Maybe different modes for the tire model that would enable/disable this sort of thing. It is great to make sure everyone has the exact same setup for competitive play though.

6. More UI customization while driving. I only drive in cockpit view. I would love to be able to have more adjustability in the UI so I can display some things but not have other UI elements not obscuring views of my mirrors. Even if there was a LHD mode and RHD mode that would be very useful.

7. More FFB setting adjustments. Allow the user to have more fine control of various FFB settings. I think PD tries to built a model that is realistic for as many cars as possible while still being balanced, but I am sure many people would love to have more control over the FFB settings to be able to fine tune to their preference and even per car.

8. More transparency and Submit Feedback directly in game or on main website. I would absolutely love PD to be a bit more open with what their plans are for the game and be more open to getting bug reports and have a better system for people to report issues. I really think they should have a feedback system right on their new community system. Right now the only way to support bugs and possibly get a developer response is to post on this forum - https://community.eu.playstation.com/t5/GT-Sport/bd-p/65 I really think they should allow you to do this right in game, or make it very clear where the best place is to provide feedback. I have personally posted many issues there with good results and fixes. I posted about the FFB settings issue to saving, which was fixed. The auto sens not working on CSL Elite after an update, which was fixed, and various other things which the devs did address. I just think they need to make this easier for users, and they shouldn't be so afraid to acknowledge issues that pop up in the game. We all just want to help make the game as good as it can be.
 
That wou
To switch it up a bit. The complaints I do have about GT Sport:

1. The clutch should have a full range like it does in real life. In reality almost all race car's clutches are basically an on/off switch, but I would like for normal road cars to have a bit more range for sure. I also find it very annoying that many racing cars that have sequential transmissions don't actually give you control of the clutch. I would love to have proper standing starts in GT Sport, and be able to set clutch bite point and all that fun stuff that some wheels now support.

2. The e-brake should have a range as well. Again, in reality, there is a moment where the brake is flipping the switch on locking the rear tires, but it would be nice if there was more fine-control here.

3. I would like to be able to adjust the throttle curve. Many drivers would prefer a more linear throttle. I don't really have a major issue with it. But being able to adjust the throttle curve per car would be great. At least on racing cars with racing pedal systems which would absolutely let you adjust this to driver preference. Again, many drivers prefer an exponential pedal similar to GT Sport, but why not just give the player the ability to adjust to their preference?

4. More FOV adjustment. I love that they added the ability to adjust camera position in GT Sport, but having more actual FOV customization would be very useful. I would imagine there is some hardware limitations or maybe they just don't think people would use this?

5. Ability to get into the really fine details of tire pressure and tire temps. I fully understand why they don't do this as it makes it a less balanced game for competitive play. But I would love to be able to adjust tire pressure and get tire temp data logs and all sorts of things. Maybe different modes for the tire model that would enable/disable this sort of thing. It is great to make sure everyone has the exact same setup for competitive play though.

6. More UI customization while driving. I only drive in cockpit view. I would love to be able to have more adjustability in the UI so I can display some things but not have other UI elements not obscuring views of my mirrors. Even if there was a LHD mode and RHD mode that would be very useful.

7. More FFB setting adjustments. Allow the user to have more fine control of various FFB settings. I think PD tries to built a model that is realistic for as many cars as possible while still being balanced, but I am sure many people would love to have more control over the FFB settings to be able to fine tune to their preference and even per car.

8. More transparency and Submit Feedback directly in game or on main website. I would absolutely love PD to be a bit more open with what their plans are for the game and be more open to getting bug reports and have a better system for people to report issues. I really think they should have a feedback system right on their new community system. Right now the only way to support bugs and possibly get a developer response is to post on this forum - https://community.eu.playstation.com/t5/GT-Sport/bd-p/65 I really think they should allow you to do this right in game, or make it very clear where the best place is to provide feedback. I have personally posted many issues there with good results and fixes. I posted about the FFB settings issue to saving, which was fixed. The auto sens not working on CSL Elite after an update, which was fixed, and various other things which the devs did address. I just think they need to make this easier for users, and they shouldn't be so afraid to acknowledge issues that pop up in the game. We all just want to help make the game as good as it can be.


That would be awesome.. but such may only be obtainable on PC and with a very special and (not existing yet..) software..
 
I finally got it, after last update :)


For those of you that like to be able to turn and react fast on track, and specially to be able to listen/feel what your wheel is trying to say to you about the track, your driving and the way the car is behaving on track (not surely for those who want to feel like they are driving something real big and heavy.... like an eighteen wheeler, or/and fight a continuous battle against the unspoken will of their wheel), here are my actual best settings for a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 wheel with v3 Sport pedals:



On game setup:

Control Sensiv.: 7

FFB Torque: 4

FFB Sensivity: 10



Wheel Settings:

SENS: AUT (or better to set it according to car type)

FF: 100

SHO: 100

ABS: 40

DRI: -5 (to 0)

FOR: 030 (to 50)

SPR: OFF or 10

DPR: 120 (to 100)

BRF: 020

FEI: 050 (variable from 050 to 060)


Try (if you dare) at your own risk!!!

I really think the FFB Sensitivity setting is key here, and I actually agree with the main areas your settings here. I have seen so many people running FFB Sens setting so low which can really make everything feel lifeless. FFB torque really just comes down to strength and personal preference.

I run FOR SPR and DPR all at the default of 100 and BRF at 050, but I use the CSL Elite pedals not the v3. SPR set to OFF feels pretty unrealistic to me though. Any car you drive will definitely have a spring force in the wheel as you are driving in a straight line.
 
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I really think the FFB Sensitivity setting is key here, and I actually agree with your settings here. I have seen so many people running FFB Sens setting so low which can really make everything feel lifeless. FFB torque really just comes down to strength and personal preference.

I run FOR SPR and DPR all at the default of 100 and BRF at 050, but I use the CSL Elite pedals not the v3. SPR set to OFF feels pretty unrealistic to me though. Any car you drive will definitely have a spring force in the wheel as you are driving in a straight line.

Like I posted before. Start with the default. This is what PD intended the FFB to feel like and then customize to your own preference.
 
I really think the FFB Sensitivity setting is key here, and I actually agree with your settings here. I have seen so many people running FFB Sens setting so low which can really make everything feel lifeless. FFB torque really just comes down to strength and personal preference.

I run FOR SPR and DPR all at the default of 100 and BRF at 050, but I use the CSL Elite pedals not the v3. SPR set to OFF feels pretty unrealistic to me though. Any car you drive will definitely have a spring force in the wheel as you are driving in a straight line.


Andrew... I totally agree with the need to have a spring feeling... but... there´s a major catch affecting your thinking...

The values you find on settings are ... amplifiers (positive or negative) to the pure FFB outputs that any wheel sends out when used on a specific racing game... All FFB wheels send Spring and Dumping like effects! All of them!!! You simple use those values to amplify or reduce (case you can have a negative value) the basic FFB effect.. and on the case of spring (for example) what hapens is that mostly it may used by the wheel to center it if you get a snap for example... and this will send you a complete different feeling then the one you should be feeling, and also wil set more instability to your driving basic reactions (this is an example...) And going deeper... on the best console racing simulator (Asseto Corsa and now to be sooon Assetto Corsa Competizione), the best basic settings start by setting Spring and Force to .. ZERO/off so that this will not affect the best FFB feelings already coming from that game... And we are talking of "reading" the information that the game is trying to give you using FFB... mainly... joined to the basic feelings of your car reacting to the track and inputs that yoi give it... it´s a mix... of feelings... raising some too much will make you dumb to the others... mostly... and simply reacting to an excessive or wrong impulse coming from the wheel, will make you do exactly the opposite of what you must do... (excessive centering spring forces. for example), and excessive snap forces... you wil be fighting the wheel and not driving it!!!
 
"
6.3.7 FOR (force), SPR (spring), DPR (damper)

FOR range: OFF 010 ... 120

SPR range: OFF 010 ... 120

DPR range: OFF 010 ... 120

FOR default: 100 (%)

SPR default: 100 (%)

DPR default: 100 (%)

These force feedback modifiers give you the ability to change the force feed-back signals of a game (only applicable if game uses these effects). In theory there are three types of signals which a game can send: Force (pushes the wheel into a special direction), spring (pulls the wheel towards the dynamic centre) and damper (creates friction). Not every game uses all types of effects and some games even use only one type to create all different feelings. Using your tuning menu in the CSL Elite Racing Wheel you can increase or reduce these different effects individually. To change the active value, move the direc- tional stick of the Fanatec® steering wheel in the up or down direction.

Note: If SPR is set to low values or ‘OFF’ the CSL Elite Racing Wheel will not be able to move the attached steering wheel to correct centre position after calibration run.

"

From Fanatec's documentation on the CSL Elite PS4.

These set to default aren't adding to the game's intended FFB. At least not in GT Sport. They are providing 100% of what they game intends to send the wheel. If you boost them to 120, then you are increasing the multiplier and making them stronger. If you are setting them lower than 100, you are reducing them. The wheel isn't doubling up the amount of FOR, SPR, or DPR at all. It is a multiplier not an additive effect. And they can't be set to negative values.

I can't say I have had any issues in Assetto with the wheel at default settings either. To adjust what the game is sending the wheel, you have to adjust the in-game settings. To adjust the way the wheel is translating those settings, you adjust the wheel settings.
 
Does any of you has mclaren rim ?
For me with drivehub in fanatec mode I still don't see any shifting data on oled.

The rattling while sliding is still there (especially in corners like in tsukubas last one)
 
I agree with all of you that posted about what PD needs to do for the game and what they have done with the game. I absolutely think this is the best update that has been done for the csl elite. The only problem I am having is getting my DOR set. I am going to try this in auto tonight and see if it works any better. I run close to the same settings as you all but run a higher brake force on both. I love how the game drives and the fix to the tire model is sooo much better. I was running Brands Hatch last night and could tell going into turn 1 as soon as I tried to turn in deep the wheel kicked to let me know ist was sliding, so next lap took a different line and problem solved. I had a problem with my E-Brake not working, but come to find out it was the faulty plug on the bottom of my brake. So I just straight wired it and all is good. I also run the V-3 inverted pedals and have my adjuster and damper set low and higher brake force lets me trail brake much easier. I would also like to be able to run triple screens for GT Sport, but that’s a big dream. Lol!!! Thanks for the great post and sorry for the long reply.
 
Absolutely love it! Best GT Sport or any Gran Turismo has ever felt in my opinion. Driving the NSX-R is an absolute joy. And driving the Amuse GT1 S2000 feels perfect to me. I drive a baby Amuse S2000 on a daily basis and GT Sports Amuse S2000 is the best an S2000 has felt in any Gran Turismo game. If I could just convince PD to add the Amuse R1 S2000 now and my car will be in the game....

What wheel settings have u been using, pretty sure I’ve got mine close to the mark but always like to compare to see if there’s something better out there.
 
Such intense shaking is due to uncorrect settings... mainly... and will be felt mainly by those that like to feel their wheels like... driving an 18 wheeler...
I have logged almost 5 million miles in just a little over 10 years driving big rigs and although I understood the point you were trying to make most newer rigs can be turned with 2 fingers especially the westernstars and kenworths. They have to be extremely soft due to the extremely over exaggerated turning angles required to turn the 53 foot trailer your pulling behind you. It’s not uncommon to turn the wheel a complete 360 degrees to complete a 90 degree turn.
 
Really enjoying the new GT Sport update with the CSL. Not just the shift lights but the FFB feels slightly better to me, though it may just be a better physics model makes driving more pleasant. You can finally push cars to the limit without them going haywire.
 
Does any of you has mclaren rim ?
For me with drivehub in fanatec mode I still don't see any shifting data on oled.

The rattling while sliding is still there (especially in corners like in tsukubas last one)

Been testing my wheel and settings... on Tsukyba.. a lot.. on daily races... and the effect is absolutely contained and gives also a very useful advice about the momment you have traction back and you may apply full throtle...
 
I don't know if it is the drivehub or the csw v2. But it gives the feeling of slipped gears. And the noise is not nice. I like the effect in itself but the way it rattles annoys me. It feels like g25 did on gravel
 
What wheel settings have u been using, pretty sure I’ve got mine close to the mark but always like to compare to see if there’s something better out there.

I honestly don't recommend using someone else's settings. As others and I have mentioned start with the default and adjust until it makes sense to you. I always keep my wheel on default settings, and adjust the in-game settings first, and then make small adjustments to the wheel settings from there.

With in-game GT Sport settings and a new wheel I just go from the range from lowest to highest on each to get a feel for what each setting does. It tens to be pretty obvious what feels right and what doesn't.
 
I honestly don't recommend using someone else's settings. As others and I have mentioned start with the default and adjust until it makes sense to you. I always keep my wheel on default settings, and adjust the in-game settings first, and then make small adjustments to the wheel settings from there.

With in-game GT Sport settings and a new wheel I just go from the range from lowest to highest on each to get a feel for what each setting does. It tens to be pretty obvious what feels right and what doesn't.

I completely agree on this!!!
 
I think im gonna switch to csl elite with lc instead of the T300. But are other wheels like the F1 wheel working on F12018 on the PS4? Cant found any info about this.
 
I think im gonna switch to csl elite with lc instead of the T300. But are other wheels like the F1 wheel working on F12018 on the PS4? Cant found any info about this.

You can map them how you want. Only the Mclaren GT3 has rotary dials that arent used on PS4.
 
You guy's still have any issues with the noise with the fan for the Fanatec CLS Elite Racing Wheel, because I am thinking of getting this wheel.
 
Just ordered the csl elite with loadcell :). Are the leds on wheel working with games like F1 2018 on PS4? For example if I buy the fanatec F1 wheel will it work?
 
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