Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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Is anyone able to get excellent turn-in on corners while using the DRI setting in the "OFF" position?. I am able to fast and even turn-in, especially on setting 5, in the hairpins. But of course the oscillation comes back. I wish there was a way to maintain this steering feel without the oscillation.

Keith.
 
Is anyone able to get excellent turn-in on corners while using the DRI setting in the "OFF" position?. I am able to fast and even turn-in, especially on setting 5, in the hairpins. But of course the oscillation comes back. I wish there was a way to maintain this steering feel without the oscillation.

Keith.
Hi Keith, the 'OFF' position is applying no artificial damping, so it shouldn't be difficult to turn the wheel at corner entry. Using positive DRI numbers will feel easier on turn-in because this is adding an artificial acceleration on the wheel (generally not realistic). Using high positive numbers of the DRI setting (particularly +5!) is a pretty unconventional choice for anything but drifting (and even then, it's not necessarily a good idea), or if it is used in combination with very high damper values. Having an artificially fast rotation during oversteer can be useful (in terms of catching a slide), but it is counter-intuitive to use it to reduce the wheel weight on turn-in, unless the force feedback of the game you're using has a severe 'overdamped' feeling. If you find there is too much resistance on turn-in when the DRI setting is 'OFF' or in the negative, then I recommend that you try turning down the overall force feedback strength in the game, rather than artificially removing it with the DRI setting.

The 'OFF' and negative values on the DRI setting are where the car steering will feel the most realistic in the vast majority of simulators. I typically set a CSL Elite wheel base to -3 or -2.
 
Hi Keith, the 'OFF' position is applying no artificial damping, so it shouldn't be difficult to turn the wheel at corner entry. Using positive DRI numbers will feel easier on turn-in because this is adding an artificial acceleration on the wheel (generally not realistic). Using high positive numbers of the DRI setting (particularly +5!) is a pretty unconventional choice for anything but drifting (and even then, it's not necessarily a good idea), or if it is used in combination with very high damper values. Having an artificially fast rotation during oversteer can be useful (in terms of catching a slide), but it is counter-intuitive to use it to reduce the wheel weight on turn-in, unless the force feedback of the game you're using has a severe 'overdamped' feeling. If you find there is too much resistance on turn-in when the DRI setting is 'OFF' or in the negative, then I recommend that you try turning down the overall force feedback strength in the game, rather than artificially removing it with the DRI setting.

The 'OFF' and negative values on the DRI setting are where the car steering will feel the most realistic in the vast majority of simulators. I typically set a CSL Elite wheel base to -3 or -2.


And I totally agree with you... :)
 
It's not an issue of getting too much resistance. Thanks to Mirror_man my settings are great as far as the FF is concerned. It's more of an issue of not getting enough rotation into the corners. No matter what speed and whatever car I use, they always want to swing out wide in the corners. Only when I increase the DRI setting is when I am able to control the cars a bit better.

Keith.
 
It's not an issue of getting too much resistance. Thanks to Mirror_man my settings are great as far as the FF is concerned. It's more of an issue of not getting enough rotation into the corners. No matter what speed and whatever car I use, they always want to swing out wide in the corners. Only when I increase the DRI setting is when I am able to control the cars a bit better.

Keith.
When you say you're "not getting enough rotation" and the car wants to "swing out wide in the corners", that sounds like you're generating some understeer, which will be exacerbated by an unnecessarily fast steering input on turn-in. Generally speaking, you want to apply as little steering input as possible on corner entry, to avoid understeer. Instead, you want to aim to rotate the car on the pedals using small steering inputs and taking advantage of weight transfer. A fast steering input might feel like it helps initially, but it might be making matters worse.

You mentioned hairpins. I can understand that a super tight hairpin, taken slowly, in a car with a very large steering lock could benefit from an accelerated rotation of the wheel, but that is a rare case. You should only need to apply between 90 and 180 degrees of steering input in most circuit hairpins in most race cars, and that really doesn't need an accelerated wheel rotation.
 
I'm in the process of uploading a video of the Round 1 race at Fuji. I'm not trying to get "hits" on my video, but take a look at my driving, especially when the camera is in front of the car facing the driver and also the cockpit cam. You can see I have to turn the wheel what feels like an an awful lot to get the car to turn. But I will take your advise into consideration and learn from it. I really do appreciate the help guys. I'll post it in the trailers, videos and screenshots thread.

Keith.
 
I'm in the process of uploading a video of the Round 1 race at Fuji. I'm not trying to get "hits" on my video, but take a look at my driving, especially when the camera is in front of the car facing the driver and also the cockpit cam. You can see I have to turn the wheel what feels like an an awful lot to get the car to turn. But I will take your advise into consideration and learn from it. I really do appreciate the help guys. I'll post it in the trailers, videos and screenshots thread.

Keith.


This is not a problem with your wheel or driving style this is a problem with the physics in this game.
This may help you.
 
It's not an issue of getting too much resistance. Thanks to Mirror_man my settings are great as far as the FF is concerned. It's more of an issue of not getting enough rotation into the corners. No matter what speed and whatever car I use, they always want to swing out wide in the corners. Only when I increase the DRI setting is when I am able to control the cars a bit better.

Keith.

If you understand a bit about phisics and dinamics...you must know that it has a kot to do with tangency forces... and those depwbd on the curve diameter and the speed you proceed forward ans of course about the aceleration... if you dont reduce your speed correctly while turning
.. or acelerate yoo much... you will run wide...

Y
I'm in the process of uploading a video of the Round 1 race at Fuji. I'm not trying to get "hits" on my video, but take a look at my driving, especially when the camera is in front of the car facing the driver and also the cockpit cam. You can see I have to turn the wheel what feels like an an awful lot to get the car to turn. But I will take your advise into consideration and learn from it. I really do appreciate the help guys. I'll post it in the trailers, videos and screenshots thread.

Keith.

you should Keith... you should... cause is saying the right thing that must be done...
 


This is not a problem with your wheel or driving style this is a problem with the physics in this game.
This may help you.


Not really a problem with the physics in the game, it's a problem with the balance of the GT-R lacking front end grip on those tires at low speeds. Not every car behaves like this. PD should probably tweak the default setup a bit but it's not really that far off how the normal car behaves honestly. Very heavy AWD cars will definitely exhibit some low speed understeer.
 
I'm in the process of uploading a video of the Round 1 race at Fuji. I'm not trying to get "hits" on my video, but take a look at my driving, especially when the camera is in front of the car facing the driver and also the cockpit cam. You can see I have to turn the wheel what feels like an an awful lot to get the car to turn. But I will take your advise into consideration and learn from it. I really do appreciate the help guys. I'll post it in the trailers, videos and screenshots thread.

Keith.
It's hard to tell without seeing your pedal inputs at the same time, but based on the short amount of cockpit footage from 10:25 in the video posted above, it does appear that you are generating a considerable amount of understeer. You shouldn't need so much lock through those corners. It is probably a combination of several factors (could be physics related, some of those corners at Fuji are off camber and decreasing radius and will naturally induce understeer, your driving style appears to have an overall understeer bias, which could lead to increased front tyre wear/surface heat, which compounds the issue over the course of a race), but the use of an acclerated steering rotation with a high positive DRI setting is almost certainly making things worse.
 
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It's hard to tell without seeing your pedal inputs at the same time, but based on the short amount of cockpit footage from 10:25 in the video posted above, it does appear that you are generating a considerable amount of understeer. You shouldn't need so much lock through those corners. It is probably a combination of several factors (could be physics related, some of those corners at Fuji are off camber and decreasing radius and will naturally induce understeer, your driving style appears to have an overall understeer bias, which could lead to increased front tyre wear/surface heat, which compounds the issue over the course of a race), but the use of an acclerated steering rotation with a high positive DRI setting is almost certainly making things worse.

I'm picking up what you're putting down. I went back and did the understeer portion in Driving School. I found that I was not allowing the car to roll through the corners the way I should. I was way to hard on the accelerator. I found with a bit of practice, with DRI off, I was two tenths out of the top ten times. I still have a lot to learn, but I'm getting there. Thanks for the advise and help. You guys are great.

Keith.
 
I'm picking up what you're putting down. I went back and did the understeer portion in Driving School. I found that I was not allowing the car to roll through the corners the way I should. I was way to hard on the accelerator. I found with a bit of practice, with DRI off, I was two tenths out of the top ten times. I still have a lot to learn, but I'm getting there. Thanks for the advise and help. You guys are great.

Keith.

Nice! Yeah would make sense having DRI set like that it would make it feel a bit worse. As Dom mentioned there are some strange off camber corners at Fuji that definitely exaggerate it as well. Also important to gently roll back onto the throttle to get the car rotating smoothing through a corner.
 
My Fanatec CSL Elite has lost it`s gearchange paddle click

I used to be able to feel the microswitches clicking but I can feel nothing now and no gearchanges in manual gearbox mode at all

Wheel is perfect in auto setting and this has only happened since last GTS update

I bought this from Amazon 9 months ago, do I need to contact them or Fanatec
 
My Fanatec CSL Elite has lost it`s gearchange paddle click

I used to be able to feel the microswitches clicking but I can feel nothing now and no gearchanges in manual gearbox mode at all

Wheel is perfect in auto setting and this has only happened since last GTS update

I bought this from Amazon 9 months ago, do I need to contact them or Fanatec

Is the seller Amazon themselves, third party or Fanatec? there might be some dust stuck try using some canned air to clean the switch out.
 
My Fanatec CSL Elite has lost it`s gearchange paddle click

I used to be able to feel the microswitches clicking but I can feel nothing now and no gearchanges in manual gearbox mode at all

Wheel is perfect in auto setting and this has only happened since last GTS update

I bought this from Amazon 9 months ago, do I need to contact them or Fanatec
You can contact us rikcougar.
 
Has anyone experienced brake issues in GT Sport? over the last couple days usually after heavy braking the brake will stay on after releasing, around 5% pressure without touching the brake. When it happens ive turned the wheel off/on n it’s ok but has been happening intermittently since. Stuffed my league race last night
 
Has anyone experienced brake issues in GT Sport? over the last couple days usually after heavy braking the brake will stay on after releasing, around 5% pressure without touching the brake. When it happens I've turned the wheel off/on n it’s ok but has been happening intermittently since. Stuffed my league race last night

I had this happen to me. The rubber on the pedal was wearing off and building up at the base. Two things you can do.
1. Clean the area at the base and pedal of all debris.
2. When you calibrate your brakes with the firmware, apply very slight pressure to the pedal when setting the minimum travel. This way, the pedal will always have a little bit of room to move back and not be engaged. You don't need much space. A toothpick or some paper folded on itself works just fine.

I hope this helps.

Keith.
 
What is the best means of contact through the Fanatec website?
Firstly you'll need to create a Fanatec account. As you bought through Amazon, you'll need to manually register the products with your Fanatec account (which involves uploading a copy of the Amazon invoice). After that you should be able to reach the support team in exactly the same way as our website customers, i.e. by opening a support ticket, or using the live chat feature. Support tickets can be opened at any time, and the live chat is open every day (8:00 to 20:45 on weekdays and 13:00 to 22:45 on weekends, UTC+2).
 
Firstly you'll need to create a Fanatec account. As you bought through Amazon, you'll need to manually register the products with your Fanatec account (which involves uploading a copy of the Amazon invoice). After that you should be able to reach the support team in exactly the same way as our website customers, i.e. by opening a support ticket, or using the live chat feature. Support tickets can be opened at any time, and the live chat is open every day (8:00 to 20:45 on weekdays and 13:00 to 22:45 on weekends, UTC+2).

I have requested the invoice from Amazon as it is not available on the order but it seems that the seller was Fanatec, not Amazon, the invoice request goes to Fanatec?

I have packing list so will upload that
 
I have requested the invoice from Amazon as it is not available on the order but it seems that the seller was Fanatec, not Amazon, the invoice request goes to Fanatec?

I have packing list so will upload that
I don't think the packing list is sufficient. The invoice should be available to download as a PDF in your Amazon order history. You should be able upload these to our site.
 
I don't think the packing list is sufficient. The invoice should be available to download as a PDF in your Amazon order history. You should be able upload these to our site.


There is no invoice on my account Dom, when I "request invoice" it diverts me to Fanatec
 
Can i flash the Mclaren GT3 rim 311 firmware if i only have the P1 rim? Is it any different to CSL Elite 311 firmware?
Someone said that flashing the GT3 rim firmware will fix the mild off center issue:
 
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