Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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My expirience with the CS RS Wheel.
Funky switch turn to the left works, turn to the right - no function. Very sad that simply nothing is tested and just go for it.
 
Honestly PD are a joke. If they're going to state they've added support for rotary encoders at least make sure it works first, unbelievable.
Also same as above with the McLaren GT3 V2, one way only on the funky switch. If they intended for it to be used for the MFD that in itself would be a stupid decision. At least I can still use the toggle switches.
 
My expirience with the CS RS Wheel.
Funky switch turn to the left works, turn to the right - no function. Very sad that simply nothing is tested and just go for it.
Honestly PD are a joke. If they're going to state they've added support for rotary encoders at least make sure it works first, unbelievable.
Also same as above with the McLaren GT3 V2, one way only on the funky switch. If they intended for it to be used for the MFD that in itself would be a stupid decision. At least I can still use the toggle switches.
You are right. when there is no fuel consumption it only works on the left.

Edit:this is only with McLaren.
When there is fuel consumption, it works like this:

 
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And we still use the funky to toggle between the mfd maps?

In other words, say we adjust BB. Do we then have to toggle back to the radar?
 
FFB has changed w 1.23, lowered the overall signal a bit, also the big notchiness with slight wheel rotation in larger curves seems gone so overall seems improved to me. Still not back to 1.15 but less worse.

settings DDpro 8
Game
torque was 2 now 3
Sens 1

Wheel
Sens auto
FF str 100
FF scale peak
Nat dpr off
Nat fri 5 - I like a bit of resistance
Nat inert 5 - and weight
FF interp 11 - less to me feels grainy/pixelated with small wheel movements
FEI 100
For was 120 w Tor 2, now 100
Spr 100
Dpr 100
Br for 50 - csp v3
 
Depends on the car. If you pick anything with lots of downforce, in grippy situations you'll have clipping during normal cornering even with FF max torque 1. It's useless - you have to drive by visuals, not by FFB. It doesn't happen with slow road cars though.

It's easily replicated by inducing clipping in RaceRoom. You can make that game feel exactly like GTS/GT7 FFB. Or you can unleash full dynamic range, 100% linearity and feel what GT7 should feel like if PD weren't incompetent in this area.

And for the 100th time, Fanatec settings don't matter when it comes to the biggest problem, the clipping output signal from the game. I facepalm every time I see someone posting a new magic recipe, when it's not even relevant for the main issue.

Look at this graph. That's GT7 FFB. Everything above the red line is cut off and all you feel is a dull heavy spring effect towards middle (clipping).
View attachment 1196255

This is what it should look like if you want to feel what's going on in corners. Detail remains throughout the corner.
View attachment 1196256

For a short while, when they turned down the gain because of oscillating in some silly car a couple of months ago, the FFB was excellent. But people with weak wheel bases wanted their gain back, so we all got clipping back as well. PD don't seem to be able to let us set this up ourselves.
Anyway, I sold my PS5 when they reverted to clipping, the day after trying RaceRoom and understanding what it actually can feel like.

Well keep facepalm then.
I do not race so often with high down force cars because of the missing details in ffb. Mainly for GT fusion.
We try to have the best of this ffb by trying to play with settings.
Were did you find the GT7 ffb graph? How can someone have access to live ffb telemetry?
Also i loved the 1.15 ffb .
PD should consider to fix the ffb of this title.
It is also really odd that they do not try much even if their "signature" wheel is a DD.
Anyway....
 
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Whell keep facepalm then.
I do not race so often with high down force cars because of the missing details in ffb. Mainly for GT fusion.
We try to have the best of this ffb by trying to play with settings.
Were did you find the GT7 ffb graph? How can someone have access to live ffb telemetry?
Also i loved the 1.15 ffb .
PD should consider to fix the ffb of this title.
It is also really odd that they do not try much even if their "signature" wheel is a DD.
Anyway....
It's the FFB meter from RaceRoom in both examples. The one with the clipping is from my gathered knowledge exactly what's happening in GT7 with faster cars. When it occurs in RR, if set up badly, I get a nasty deja vu from GT7. And it's easily set up badly by having too high FFB gain. You can also in RR induce artificial clipping by lower maximum torque allowed, which also cuts off peaks and feels exactly like GT7.

That nasty understeer effect in GT7 is also unnecessary, but that's another topic.

I'll never play a game without 100% physics based FFB again. There's no good reason to have canned/artificial effects. And neither is there a good reason to not let users set up their own FFB so it suits their preferences and wheel bases. The settings available in GT7 is a broken joke. It's like developers assume that all Playstation users are complete idiots.
 
It's the FFB meter from RaceRoom in both examples. The one with the clipping is from my gathered knowledge exactly what's happening in GT7 with faster cars. When it occurs in RR, if set up badly, I get a nasty deja vu from GT7. And it's easily set up badly by having too high FFB gain. You can also in RR induce artificial clipping by lower maximum torque allowed, which also cuts off peaks and feels exactly like GT7.

That nasty understeer effect in GT7 is also unnecessary, but that's another topic.

I'll never play a game without 100% physics based FFB again. There's no good reason to have canned/artificial effects. And neither is there a good reason to not let users set up their own FFB so it suits their preferences and wheel bases. The settings available in GT7 is a broken joke. It's like developers assume that all Playstation users are complete idiots.

So the graph has nothing to do with GT7. It is what you think it happens. Lol
My knowledge ( based on Project Cars fully manual adjustable FFB) says that PD has messed up the game in physics and FFb. Gt sport and Gt7 (no need to mention previous titles).

From what i understand they can not provide believable ffb or acceptable ffb for hard suspension cars with big downforce. It is not the overall in game gain of the title. I do not know what is wrong.

From what i have tried in consoles my best ever ffb was/is in Project Cars with jack Spade files. The most informative ffb on console. Not perfect because of limitations from the developer.

But indeed with 1.15 the ffb was different. I do not think it was only the ffb gain. The information was beyond expectations. Even if it was only the volume then they should leave it between what we have now and what we had then. I think a youtuber said it was very close to Automobista. I think it was random callsign
 
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So the graph has nothing to do with GT7. It is what you think it happens. Lol
My knowledge ( based on Project Cars fully manual adjustable FFB) says that PD has messed up the game in physics and FFb. Gt sport and Gt7 (no need to mention previous titles).

From what i understand they can not provide believable ffb or acceptable ffb for hard suspension cars with big downforce. It is not the overall in game gain of the title. I do not know what is wrong.

From what i have tried in consoles my best ever ffb was/is in Project Cars with jack Spade files. The most informative ffb on console. Not perfect because of limitations from the developer.

But indeed with 1.15 the ffb was different. I do not think it was only the ffb gain. The information was beyond expectations. Even if it was only the volume then they should leave it between what we have now and what we had then. I think a youtuber said it was very close to Automobista. I think it was random callsign
If you got a decent PC, install RaceRoom and try it yourself. It's free to install and all cars are free to try as you wish on a couple of tracks. Bring up the FFB meter and play with the sliders available, while watching how the signal looks and paying attention to how it feels. It shouldn't take you long to understand what good FFB can feel like, and exactly what's wrong with GT7. GTS also had some clipping, but GT7 is for some reason far worse.

I wanted to believe that GT7 simply used another "FFB language", another "flavour". But months later, after golding everything and being A+ in sport mode, trying to read up on everything and exploring every possible setting - no, it's just very badly made. And since I don't believe PD will ever prioritize physics and FFB, I'm off.
 
What's the best way to figure out if your wheel is clipping, if you're on console (specifically Xbox) and playing a game that doesn't output UDP data?

On PC I see you can display FFB load in real time which is nice, but I guess on console you need to go by "feel" and know what to look out for.
 
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If you got a decent PC, install RaceRoom and try it yourself. It's free to install and all cars are free to try as you wish on a couple of tracks. Bring up the FFB meter and play with the sliders available, while watching how the signal looks and paying attention to how it feels. It shouldn't take you long to understand what good FFB can feel like, and exactly what's wrong with GT7. GTS also had some clipping, but GT7 is for some reason far worse.

I wanted to believe that GT7 simply used another "FFB language", another "flavour". But months later, after golding everything and being A+ in sport mode, trying to read up on everything and exploring every possible setting - no, it's just very badly made. And since I don't believe PD will ever prioritize physics and FFB, I'm off.

Hey what is your PSN id ? I am A+ since GTsport and about 4 times top10 in my country and once top 10 with my beloved McLaren. Nothing major in GT7 until now.
Have we raced together?
 
Hey what is your PSN id ? I am A+ since GTsport and about 4 times top10 in my country and once top 10 with my beloved McLaren. Nothing major in GT7 until now.
Have we raced together?
Likely! I was hugotwowheels in GTS/GT7 too, in EMEA.

I have to give GT some credit though. When transitioning to RaceRoom, I could climb very quickly to top split (1,9k+ rating) with the skills gained from GT and from my experience from real life motorcycle riding. I just had to get rid of some bad habits and learn what servers to race on, learn the tracks, get all settings sorted and so on. I'm assuming it would be much more difficult coming from the F1 games or similar.
 
G'day all,
Anyone found a Goldilocks setting for V1.8 ACC, after the update yesterday.
Mine are ok, but I'm looking to try some different settings.

I'm going to keep an eye on this thread. Someone has asked the question on their forum...

 
You mean these for the CSL DD?

Yup, that’s the one! Compared to the PS4/PS5 settings and a setting I came up with, the PC settings were much better. I think I went up to 80 IG on the gain to compensate for the extra mass of the McLaren rim I use with that game.

I know boosted has some settings on YouTube.com that I might try out
 
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Thanks, will give those PC settings a go. My tweaking has me so close. I'd just like a bit more sense of front grip or understeer.
 

I just came across this guy the other day for ACC settings. It was in different direction to where I was at. The gain seemed low and I use linear rather than peak. But I followed this guys settings for in game and with the wheel and suddenly i could feel the tyre grip better and the shaking with the boost pack wasn't given my old shoulders a work out.
I thought it felt great with enough road feel, car weight and most important grip.
Be interested if anyone tries them to let me know how it feels. Enjoy!
 
Thanks to all sharing their settings and advice. GT DD has been my first wheel after decades playing GT on controller and I’ve been using this thread to adjust settings with each update while lurking since launch. I went in to upgrade pedals first and haven’t upgraded my wheel at all and have been using the GT licensed one despite its flimsy plastic construction.

Just purchased and installed a 3d printed mod kit that added magnetic shifters and a reinforcement for the shaft of the QR Lite. Magnetic neodymium shifters were too strong for a small paddle like on the GT DD pro wheel and don’t recommend them as they caused hand cramping for me relatively instantly, but I was surprised with how well the QRLite shaft reinforcement works.

There has to be some significant flex in the plastic shaft of the wheel that is muting/absorbing a lot of FFB. Once I added the reinforcement, there has been a significant improvement in the FFB communicated via the wheel. A cheaper alternative to getting a $200 metal quick release that might not align right for those on a moderate budget that can’t upgrade the wheel yet to get similar results.

If anyone like me out there still using the base GT DD pro wheel without upgrades to the wheel, be kind to yourself and look up these reinforcements or print one out if you have your own 3d printer to get the most out of this wheel.
 
Thanks to all sharing their settings and advice. GT DD has been my first wheel after decades playing GT on controller and I’ve been using this thread to adjust settings with each update while lurking since launch. I went in to upgrade pedals first and haven’t upgraded my wheel at all and have been using the GT licensed one despite its flimsy plastic construction.

Just purchased and installed a 3d printed mod kit that added magnetic shifters and a reinforcement for the shaft of the QR Lite. Magnetic neodymium shifters were too strong for a small paddle like on the GT DD pro wheel and don’t recommend them as they caused hand cramping for me relatively instantly, but I was surprised with how well the QRLite shaft reinforcement works.

There has to be some significant flex in the plastic shaft of the wheel that is muting/absorbing a lot of FFB. Once I added the reinforcement, there has been a significant improvement in the FFB communicated via the wheel. A cheaper alternative to getting a $200 metal quick release that might not align right for those on a moderate budget that can’t upgrade the wheel yet to get similar results.

If anyone like me out there still using the base GT DD pro wheel without upgrades to the wheel, be kind to yourself and look up these reinforcements or print one out if you have your own 3d printer to get the most out of this wheel.
Could you post a Picture of this so called Reinforcement ?
Where did you get it from ?
How much is it ?
Where can I find it ?
 
Thanks to all sharing their settings and advice. GT DD has been my first wheel after decades playing GT on controller and I’ve been using this thread to adjust settings with each update while lurking since launch. I went in to upgrade pedals first and haven’t upgraded my wheel at all and have been using the GT licensed one despite its flimsy plastic construction.

Just purchased and installed a 3d printed mod kit that added magnetic shifters and a reinforcement for the shaft of the QR Lite. Magnetic neodymium shifters were too strong for a small paddle like on the GT DD pro wheel and don’t recommend them as they caused hand cramping for me relatively instantly, but I was surprised with how well the QRLite shaft reinforcement works.

There has to be some significant flex in the plastic shaft of the wheel that is muting/absorbing a lot of FFB. Once I added the reinforcement, there has been a significant improvement in the FFB communicated via the wheel. A cheaper alternative to getting a $200 metal quick release that might not align right for those on a moderate budget that can’t upgrade the wheel yet to get similar results.

If anyone like me out there still using the base GT DD pro wheel without upgrades to the wheel, be kind to yourself and look up these reinforcements or print one out if you have your own 3d printer to get the most out of this wheel.


Could you post a Picture of this so called Reinforcement ?
Where did you get it from ?
How much is it ?
Where can I find it ?



Samezees
 
Could you post a Picture of this so called Reinforcement ?
Where did you get it from ?
How much is it ?
Where can I find it ?
He most likely means this:
 
Could you post a Picture of this so called Reinforcement ?
Where did you get it from ?
How much is it ?
Where can I find it ?


He most likely means this:
Correct
 

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Something to bear in mind that I didn't consider before ordering the reinforcement mod from 3drap - if, like me, you've got a McLaren GT3 wheel with the SimMakerZ shifter mod it won't fit.
If that's not an issue for you then it was cheaper to buy from Amazon than direct from 3drap.
 
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The metal one is worse than the plastic one for me anyway lol. Waste of money.
Exactly, that's part of the reason. Quality control at Fanatec seems to be bad, the tolerances seem to be huge. Tons of people saying their metal QR is bad, and tons of people saying it's a huge step up. It's a lottery

Same for me with the QR lite. It slipped a lot so I got a replacement from Fanatec, and that one is far worse than the one I got originally. In the end I fixed it with the good old tape solution.

And the first 150 bucks boost kit I got had massive issues with coil whine. So far the replacement for that seems to be fine, although it had a little coil whine from the start, it didn't get worse so far
 
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