Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Could be the QR Lite slipping. Try a layer or two of electrical tape over the groove in the shaft. I suffer with it so have ordered a QR1, hopefully it'll stop the problem.
Yeah, thats probably the problem.
Really annoying!
Did you try electric tape and if so did it help?
Was thinking of ordering a QR1, please report back when you tried it.
 
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Yeah, thats probably the problem.
Really annoying!
Did you try electric tape and if so did it help?
Was thinking of ordering a QR1, please report back when you tried it.
I had the same issue and the tape helped.
I got a QR1 with the McLaren wheel, and that also didn't fix it entirely for me. I have to use the holding screw to fix it in place, then it is OK.
 
Yeah, thats probably the problem.
Really annoying!
Did you try electric tape and if so did it help?
Was thinking of ordering a QR1, please report back when you tried it.
The tape does help. I put 2 strips on and it works. Think I've redone it a couple of times as it starts to move after a while.
The QR1 should be here next week so I'll let you know how it feels.
 
Thanks, I am going to try tape.
The tape does help. I put 2 strips on and it works. Think I've redone it a couple of times as it starts to move after a while.
You can try with sheet metal from a can 0.2mm thick.
It's better than tape and doesn't wear out, but it's a little tricky to shape it along the channel.

DSC01395.JPG


 
I have 447, the latest official release. So it's still there.
I know that the 448 beta is out but haven't tried that yet
I checked my firmware expecting it to be up to date, but it wasn't... and updating it turned into a bit more of a drama than expected. To start with the software wouldn't talk to my wheelbase, and then it thought it was a different wheel, not a GT DD.

Then I figured I should probably download the new drivers etc. which I did... and then it worked perfectly.

Than I had to work out a way of plugging the USB cable into the V3 pedals without removing them from my rig, which would be a massive hassle... it all took way longer than it should!
 
If you reduce SEN in GT7 too much you will get severe oscillations.
Humm...... maybe I'd better not touch it! I can handle getting a bit crossed up, but when you want to shift up a gear mid corner it gets tricky!


I have it at Auto, which is also recommended. I think GT also adjusts it automatically for each car, so there shouldn't be any need to change it.
Turning 180 degrees should be alright, but only in slow speed hairpins. In other corners it's not necessary, and if you do turn that much you will have massive understeer.

@Jules_r I found it very important to adjust the settings for each game, to get the right tyre grip feel especially.
The A setting on the wheel, as well as the recommended settings from Fanatec felt too heavy lacking details.
The steering angle in most games is Auto, so it changes for each car. But you can set it to your preference if you prefer. 900-1080 for road racing cars is common and down to 540 degrees for rally cars.
As @timekiller001 said, any tighter than that will be twitchy and break grip easily.
Thanks for the info guy's.... When it comes to settings I'm not too sure where to start. I did use a set that I found here on GTPlanet back when that update messed everything up but have since gone back to default settings.

Right now I have a little issue with my brakes because when I recently updated the firmware I had to re-calibrate the pedals and now they don't feel quite the same as they did, and my lap times have suffered so I need to sort that out before I can think about anything else.
 
I checked my firmware expecting it to be up to date, but it wasn't... and updating it turned into a bit more of a drama than expected. To start with the software wouldn't talk to my wheelbase, and then it thought it was a different wheel, not a GT DD.

Then I figured I should probably download the new drivers etc. which I did... and then it worked perfectly.

Than I had to work out a way of plugging the USB cable into the V3 pedals without removing them from my rig, which would be a massive hassle... it all took way longer than it should!
Must admit I've never updated the software, as I don't have a PC and don't want the hassle or to stuff anything up. The V2'S and DD are working well as is.

For the tuning you'll find many different tunes on YouTube and forums.

There are 5 custom settings on the wheel. I use one for each game and keep number 1 free, to experiment with other tunes until you find the one that gives you the feedback you need, to give you the right feeling and get your best times.
 
Thanks for the info guy's.... When it comes to settings I'm not too sure where to start. I did use a set that I found here on GTPlanet back when that update messed everything up but have since gone back to default settings.
I can post my settings if you want, I do leave SEN on auto for GT7 however.

Just seen you're from Kent, me too.
 
Did a bunch of laps on the Ring w the Maserati A6GCS/53 Spyder on SS to adjust my DD Pro 8 settings. The A6 is a lot of fun and you can really feel weight shift and suspension travel.

Wheel:
  • SEN Auto
  • FF 100
  • FFS linear - shout out to @kembro for this - you give up 2nm but makes a noticeable diff in detail feel IMO
  • NDP 15 - seems low? I know but w Lin feels good. Went down to 10 but a bit too nervous maybe
  • NFR 5
  • NIN 5
  • INT 1
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100 - go to 110 if you want a bit more rather than turn up in-game torque
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Assist Settings:
    • Countersteering Assistance: Off
  • Controller Settings:
    • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5 max to avoid clipping
    • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
 
Did a bunch of laps on the Ring w the Maserati A6GCS/53 Spyder on SS to adjust my DD Pro 8 settings. The A6 is a lot of fun and you can really feel weight shift and suspension travel.

Wheel:
  • SEN Auto
  • FF 100
  • FFS linear - shout out to @kembro for this - you give up 2nm but makes a noticeable diff in detail feel IMO
  • NDP 15 - seems low? I know but w Lin feels good. Went down to 10 but a bit too nervous maybe
  • NFR 5
  • NIN 5
  • INT 1
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100 - go to 110 if you want a bit more rather than turn up in-game torque
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Assist Settings:
    • Countersteering Assistance: Off
  • Controller Settings:
    • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5 max to avoid clipping
    • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
Nice tune, will give it a go tonight.
I'm a bit of a fan of no dampening or friction, for more details, but you get more road vibes too. Understand wanting it to feel smooth though with those settings.
That's exactly it, about giving up a little weight for more details. I feel curbs better and tyre resistance when pushing/understeering.
 
Nice tune, will give it a go tonight.
I'm a bit of a fan of no dampening or friction, for more details, but you get more road vibes too. Understand wanting it to feel smooth though with those settings.
That's exactly it, about giving up a little weight for more details. I feel curbs better and tyre resistance when pushing/understeering.
Thx - the bit of NFR and NIN seem to add in some RL car feel for me, but if you were pushing for every last bit of reactive response might not be what you want. I think that once you lower the damping the suspension modeling and tune of the individual cars seems to come through more - some are better than others
 
My QR1 came yesterday. Played ACC for a few hours last night and it feels much better. I used the retaining screw/bolt as I don't change wheels and it's rock solid. Only issue was an annoying clank where the collar hits the bolt when going over curbs and stuff, but that was an easy fix just putting a small cable tie around the bolt.
 
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My QR1 came yesterday. Played ACC for a few hours last night and it feels much better. I used the retaining screw/bolt as I don't change wheels and it's rock solid. Only issue was an annoying clank where the collar hits the bolt when going over curbs and stuff, but that was an easy fix just putting a small cable tie around the bolt.
Thanks for the update, appreciate it.
I have played a couple of hours after the tape trick, so far so good.
 
Having a hard time adjustin to DD.
You experts, what do you say about these FFB settings in ACC?
DFACEEEA-5342-411D-9C94-536E9CF9CD57.jpeg
DACDF19B-D838-4C0F-AE81-B173F5673173.jpeg

First:
Linear
30
5
13
2
80
Gain 70
Dynamic Damping 100

Second:
Peak
25
Off
Off
2
70
Gain 70
Dynamic Damping 80
 
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Did a bunch of laps on the Ring w the Maserati A6GCS/53 Spyder on SS to adjust my DD Pro 8 settings. The A6 is a lot of fun and you can really feel weight shift and suspension travel.

Wheel:
  • SEN Auto
  • FF 100
  • FFS linear - shout out to @kembro for this - you give up 2nm but makes a noticeable diff in detail feel IMO
  • NDP 15 - seems low? I know but w Lin feels good. Went down to 10 but a bit too nervous maybe
  • NFR 5
  • NIN 5
  • INT 1
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100 - go to 110 if you want a bit more rather than turn up in-game torque
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Assist Settings:
    • Countersteering Assistance: Off
  • Controller Settings:
    • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5 max to avoid clipping
    • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
LINEAR... much much better for me on GT 7 !!! i run the 8nm and kept all other settings as before I had on wheel but increasing FFB in game from 4 to 6. I usually test all my car on lago maggiore and improved all laps by avg 1 sec on each of them...I cannot believe it...how it can be is better then peak ?
 
Only motor FW changed from 448 - no noticeable changes for GT7. Read release notes.

But did some testing and decided to lower in game from 5 to 4 and raised FOR from 100 to 110. Maybe slight improvement in detail. My times improved FWIW.

This is based on the Fanatec Maurice saying the game FFB signal clips even at lowest settings so that seems to me to run lowest game strength and highest wheel strength that is acceptable to minimize it. 3 seems too weak, even w FOR at 120. The scale does not seem linear to me, 4 to 3 seems bigger decrease then 5 to 4
 
So these are my settings for ACC (PS5). I'm in the process of tweaking them due to the physics changes in update 1.9, will update them when I'm happy with them (11/7/23).

SEN - match to in game steer lock setting.
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP 10
NFR 5
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR OFF
DPR 50

In Game
Gain 55
Min Force 0
Dynamic Damping 100
Road Effects 10
Steer Lock car dependent

Note: even though this is an old post it'll always be updated with my current settings.
 
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DD pro Question. Is it safe to swap out rims while the base is powered on? I'm new to the DD pro but not Fanatec. I had a CSL Elite before but only had 1 rim.
 
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