Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

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DD2_normal5-1000x666.jpg

If you hold the wheel base vertically like this, you can remove these bolts(which are holding the motor):

View attachment 848016
without misaligned the motor inside the box and then you can put front mounting bracket under the motor:

View attachment 848020
and front hard mount the wheel base with longer bolts.

This is just a theory and it may not work!
If anyone's crazy enough to try it, keep me updated.:gtpflag:
Your theory is good! It will work! Just dont know how comfortable will be to rotate the gold nut on the QR if around it is the metal of the from mounting plate!:) But that can be setup easily!:)
 
Im not sure....:dopey:
Its like mounting a 30kg tv to a 1m telescope tv wall holder that is fixed with tiny 2cm dowels into a plaster wall. :dunce: 👍

Someone should try it! :D
 
Here also no flex, when i try to push or pull on sides the only thing flexing is the metal frame of the t500 rim :)
I got the universal hub arround 4months before the postponed dezember´2018 release.
Maybe we are just lucky ones where the old uni hub have accedently the perfect size? :crazy:
 
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Neither my Macca GT3 or Formula V2 QR's show any flex, if anything they are a tad too tight. It does appear Barry got a lemon, I'm sure Fanatec will replace it for him.
 
Neither my Macca GT3 or Formula V2 QR's show any flex, if anything they are a tad too tight. It does appear Barry got a lemon, I'm sure Fanatec will replace it for him.

If you think Fanatec will replace it then you are wrong!
I have slack on all my wheels, much more than Barry has!
I contacted Fanatec and was told that there was something wrong with the quick release on my steering wheel, but right after that the tightening nut stuck completely so I had to send my DD2 to Fanatec to replace it, when they had it they wanted me too send my steering wheels so they could check that everything was 100% ok
I sent my steering wheels and got everything back with more slack than I had initially
I contacted support but was told that this is perfectly normal, but I could send base and steering wheels again for an extra check, but if they don't find anything wrong I have to pay for it ..
I don't think this is acceptable, especially when the product page says:
"Automotive grade Quick Release system with rubber dampener for zero flex and movement between the steering wheel and wheel base"
With my 2 year old CSW2.5 I have no slack ..
Watch my video and see if you think this is acceptable ??
 
T_M
If you think Fanatec will replace it then you are wrong!
I have slack on all my wheels, much more than Barry has!
I contacted Fanatec and was told that there was something wrong with the quick release on my steering wheel, but right after that the tightening nut stuck completely so I had to send my DD2 to Fanatec to replace it, when they had it they wanted me too send my steering wheels so they could check that everything was 100% ok
I sent my steering wheels and got everything back with more slack than I had initially
I contacted support but was told that this is perfectly normal, but I could send base and steering wheels again for an extra check, but if they don't find anything wrong I have to pay for it ..
I don't think this is acceptable, especially when the product page says:
"Automotive grade Quick Release system with rubber dampener for zero flex and movement between the steering wheel and wheel base"
With my 2 year old CSW2.5 I have no slack ..
Watch my video and see if you think this is acceptable ??

In your casse I think that is not even flex, but worse - that is wooble...from what I see it feels like some bolts somewhere are loose...something is not ok IMO. That means everytime you hold the rim you feel slightly wooble, which is not normal...
As you said on CSW everything is fine, that means that the QR part on the DD is like thinner than needed - can measure with precise instrument the male part on the DD QR diameter?
Also from what I know they made the QR with special nut - you need to lock with the nut, so the nut must give preasure to this rubber part which rubber to kill any posible gap in the QR. Do you tighten to the max?

Edit:
Strange that they didint help...Some people buy cheap QR from China with huge gaps and wooble and fixed them with some mods, but Fanatec cant help you with their own product..reallly strange for me!
 
Lot of flex, wow. And this just with the pressure of 2 fingers... its definitely broken :guilty:
If i pull with right hand and push with left hand, nothing happens.
If i pull strong enough(at arround 10kg pressure*) the metal frame of my rim starts to bend but the unihub sit tight.

* Just have tested it with a suitcase scale.
 
In your casse I think that is not even flex, but worse - that is wooble...from what I see it feels like some bolts somewhere are loose...something is not ok IMO. That means everytime you hold the rim you feel slightly wooble, which is not normal...
As you said on CSW everything is fine, that means that the QR part on the DD is like thinner than needed - can measure with precise instrument the male part on the DD QR diameter?
Also from what I know they made the QR with special nut - you need to lock with the nut, so the nut must give preasure to this rubber part which rubber to kill any posible gap in the QR. Do you tighten to the max?

Edit:
Strange that they didint help...Some people buy cheap QR from China with huge gaps and wooble and fixed them with some mods, but Fanatec cant help you with their own product..reallly strange for me!

No loose bolts on the steering wheel anywhere, it has also been with Fanatec and been checked.
The steering wheel is mounted properly, I made that video to show Fanatec that I could flex it with just two fingers
because they said it was normal for it to flex when I used force to demonstrate it
Then they said that this is normal and that they had checked my steering wheel and that everything measured was within tolerance and that the:
"zero flex and movement between the steering wheel and wheel base"
on the product page Is in the steering direction and not in the direction I push / pull the steering wheel and that I should not notice anything when driving
The problem is that the tolerance on the QR on my steering wheel is on the big side while the tolerance on the DD2 QR shaft is on the small side
In this video you can see that the steering wheel is mounted correctly
 
T_M
No loose bolts on the steering wheel anywhere, it has also been with Fanatec and been checked.
The steering wheel is mounted properly, I made that video to show Fanatec that I could flex it with just two fingers
because they said it was normal for it to flex when I used force to demonstrate it
Then they said that this is normal and that they had checked my steering wheel and that everything measured was within tolerance and that the:
"zero flex and movement between the steering wheel and wheel base"
on the product page Is in the steering direction and not in the direction I push / pull the steering wheel and that I should not notice anything when driving
The problem is that the tolerance on the QR on my steering wheel is on the big side while the tolerance on the DD2 QR shaft is on the small side
In this video you can see that the steering wheel is mounted correctly

How about that:
- As Fanatec want proof of the problem - You to do the same! To send the base and rims and unless they provide video which shows good mounting - to do not return it to you, same as your video but to show good mounting....if the problem cant be solved in 20 working days - to be refunded! For me thats fair for both sides!;)

Edit:
My point is that they dont believe on words - want video, thats fine, but are placed in position to believe on words only that everything is fine! Which is unfair IMO!
 
T_M
If you think Fanatec will replace it then you are wrong!
I have slack on all my wheels, much more than Barry has!
I contacted Fanatec and was told that there was something wrong with the quick release on my steering wheel, but right after that the tightening nut stuck completely so I had to send my DD2 to Fanatec to replace it, when they had it they wanted me too send my steering wheels so they could check that everything was 100% ok
I sent my steering wheels and got everything back with more slack than I had initially
I contacted support but was told that this is perfectly normal, but I could send base and steering wheels again for an extra check, but if they don't find anything wrong I have to pay for it ..
I don't think this is acceptable, especially when the product page says:
"Automotive grade Quick Release system with rubber dampener for zero flex and movement between the steering wheel and wheel base"
With my 2 year old CSW2.5 I have no slack ..
Watch my video and see if you think this is acceptable ??


yea thats not good. when i mount mine i snug the lock nut up to the rubber were it just starts to smash it

i can get a hold of mine twist it hard solid as a rock
 
I have no flex whatsoever on my dd1 either. I am wondering if it is related to user older rims on them, maybe there is a difference in size between the DD shafts and the older rims coupling?
 
I have no flex whatsoever on my dd1 either. I am wondering if it is related to user older rims on them, maybe there is a difference in size between the DD shafts and the older rims coupling?
Possible explanation how some guys have flex and other dont have flex can be how tight is the nut on the DD QR and also cobined with some assembly/production tollerance of the rim QR which in some cases is on the larger posible acceptable tollerance...
 
Watching that video T_M it didn't seem like you were able to screw the tightening nut thing on hard. I've decided not to take it on and off too much, but from memory I think I could tighten it more than what you did there. At least for me it seemed to be able to go more revolutions and gradually become tighter. On that video yours seemed to just stop very quickly.
 
Watching that video T_M it didn't seem like you were able to screw the tightening nut thing on hard. I've decided not to take it on and off too much, but from memory I think I could tighten it more than what you did there. At least for me it seemed to be able to go more revolutions and gradually become tighter. On that video yours seemed to just stop very quickly.
In general in that nut that press the rubber have great idea - when the rubber extends it eats any gap....but without having it in hand cant judge how well is executed that great idea!:)
 
Watching that video T_M it didn't seem like you were able to screw the tightening nut thing on hard. I've decided not to take it on and off too much, but from memory I think I could tighten it more than what you did there. At least for me it seemed to be able to go more revolutions and gradually become tighter. On that video yours seemed to just stop very quickly.
It certainly helps to add some silicone grease to these areas, not just to improve the wheel attachment/detachment process, but because it allows the locking ring to be tightened more easily, meaning that the rubber expansion can work more effectively.
 
I'm just glad mine is rock solid. Hopefully it works out well for everyone else as well.
People that bash the DD in youtube said that those customers stating rock solid never show this on video - Can you show your to see that is solid? Just curious...
 
The Z-Ring looks good, but I'm not sure that PLA will standup to this type of abuse (torquing the ring down and then sustaining 20Nm in torsional force). However, I think its a good idea. At the least I'm sure it would hold up fine in the short term for determining its potential.

For those who want a detailed look at the link in the screen shot above, its on the main page (for now) on http://zappadoc.com/.
 
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if mine moved like that they would either fix it or eat it.

nothing like the power of a contested visa.

get a hold of Dom he will make it right
 
Hello

I need some help, I just received my dd1 podium wheel, I have inserted the torque key, and I have the message "ATTENTION Enable torque ? but I cant find the right button to validate the high torque any help welcome thx
 
With the latest driver and firmware you can press ANY button or hold your wheel 90° to the right to accept the message. With older drivers and firmwares you need to accept the message by pressing the Start button which depends on your wheel. Without knowing your wheel it's not possible to give a final answer.
 
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