FITT - Federation of International Tuners and Test-Drivers

The problem with Big Willow is it's like 5 turns and just about all flat out or darn near. I like it well enough but I don't think it will test the cars or the drivers much. I like the Laguna idea. We did have one of the early events there in GT5 and the 'Screw is always fun.

I'll spin up a couple 500pp muscley tanks and see what shakes out. Are we leaning strictly classic or include the modern muscle as well? I like JTQ's list and I'm not sure having the old and new would end up a fair fight. '79 and older sound good?

 

I like Laguna Seca, and if you'll notice I left out the Corvette. I think the GT350 might be overpowered as well because it has a massive weight advantage. Proof's in 8hrs of drag racing classic muscle with low power yesterday

 

GT350 had great power/weight in GT5 too but it was one of the worst, if not the worst, cars around corners.

 

I have tuned the Trans Am and am working on the Hemi Cuda and find the cars fantastic to drive. The Trans Am corners like no real life Trans Am ever has, especially one from the 70's and same with the Cuda. I think Muscle Cars at 500PP on SH will be perfect and will provide a lot of good rides

 

This is from the GT5 tuning thread. Will this method still work well in GT6?
I don't know much about tuning

 

Did some quick runs last night and I like 500PP/SH@Laguna best. Apricot Hill felt a little too much work for the old boats and while I would have liked to use the newer track, Laguna felt pretty good. If there are no objections I'll push this out over the weekend.

• Standard event, time and driver choice separate ranking
• Pre-1980 American muscle cars only
• 500PP limit
• Sports Hard tires
• Laguna Seca for testing, unless someone can come up with a new track in the 1:30-1:45 range that works better

While I haven't tried it out in GT6 as I've been running nearly everything stock so far, I don't see why that wouldn't work for setting gears. I used it with good results in the GT5 days. If you try it, let us know what you find.

 

Classic American Muscle at Laguna Seca? I can't wait!

 

I still use this method... Well a very close version of this method. I don't move 1st gear that low.

 

Hey guys just a heads up.
The iB Tour of America has its second race on Laguna Seca.
Very winnable with a 500PP Classic Muscle Car on Sport Hard tires.
200% login bonus nets 90k for win. Makes it great for testing/tuning.

 

A classic car shoot out? I've never herd of such a thing

 

Getting a bit frustrated that my 450PP RS200 is faster around Laguna Seca than any of the classic muscle I've worked on at 500PP.
I know the track is mainly about handling, but still you expect 50 extra PP to make a bit more of a difference.

 

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fitt-classic-muscle-shootout-lets-get-it-on.296396/

It's on!

 

Man, I like this new alerts system now. Less than 2mins after the thread is up and I'm signed up! Good luck and let's have fun everyone!

 

Can someone please help me tune my Honda Civic SiR II '95 or post a link to a really good tune THANKS

 

Check the directory sticky for tunes. Not sure how many have been posted for that specific Civic but another might work just as well from a similar car. If you want to tune it yourself check the reverse engineering thread that should be linked in one of the posts at the front of this thread. Alternatively, check the tuning garage database and see if a garage will be willing to tune one up by request. Many are happy to take requests if you review one of their tunes.

 

@everyone - Please state your beef with not adding 5% BS power to cars that needs "refreshed" every 186 miles. (It's almost the equivalent of NOS)

I've come to the conclusion that most FITT guys HATE not changing their oil, and every "reason" I've seen stated is absolute BS.
So please, someone, anyone enlighten me as to why, "we must do this".

Thanks.

 

I don't understand your first sentence so I will answer the second. I don't think it is about HATE. I can only provide one benefit for mandatory oil changes. It will be easier on the testers. I did not say impossible for testers to overcome... just easier. One example. Say that you @CSLACR and I enter the same car. I choose oil change and you do not. If the testers do not notice this and run my car first, they must purchase another one to build yours. I guess we could mandate no oil changes too. Either way, in my opinion, one or the other should be determined upfront.

 

@CSLACR let me ask you something...do you insure you have fresh clean fluids in your real life car before putting in a day on the track?
Would you seriously consider running with what could be bad or contaminated oil and risk damaging or destroying a very expensive chunk of your car?

Now in the game I don't have to worry about permanently damaging or destroying the engine of my cars because of being to cheap and lazy to do a simple oil change.
Not doing an oil change means your either one of those "win at all costs" types who have been mentioned elsewhere or just plain lazy.
How or why you've not seen loss of power after running your cars a few hundred miles with no oil change I don't know. However I do know that I've had several cars which i was to lazy to do an initial oil change on obviously start losing power in only a couple hundred miles.

Finally while we don't currently have B Spec what's to stop me from saying hey I'm entering a Shelby Daytona Coupe '64! You just need to add full ballast, 95% power limiter and then drive the car 10k miles to get it to meet restrictions...oh and for testers if it continues losing power after that don't worry, just keep removing ballast/raising power limiter to keep it at 500PP.

 

Note: I've given my Cobra Coupe a couple oil changes and it only has 225 miles on it so have no real clue how far you'd really have to drive an non-oil chainged car to get it down to 500PP. Anyone with a spare 4.5 million credits and time to burn please feel free to explore the situation.
Car should be a total killer amongst this group of pre-'80 American cars. I mean even with 200kg ballast the car only weighs 1243kg and starts with a 50/50 weight distribution. Plus it offers fully adjustable front and rear downforce...

 

The issue for me around oil has always been consistency for testers. When I'm driving or tuning for myself I rarely even give it any brain cycles.

I experienced this firsthand back in the day. I believe it was Dylan's event at Laguna Seca. I couldn't get Raver's car up to spec for whatever reason and one of them kept dropping power so I would have to get back and run a few more laps to make sure I was being fair. As it turned out Raver's needed an oil change because I bought the M5 used and the other was a car that was just starting to lose power due to having older oil.

As @Motor City Hami said I don't much care one way or the other how the oil goes, changed or not, so long as everyone is playing from the same set of rules. Since we aren't buying anything used anymore it makes less of an impact than it did in GT5.

EDIT: Anyone seen the new Z06 by the way?

 

I don't change oil, never have in GT6. Coincidentally, I've not seen a change in PP or BHP either and I've driven over 6000 miles in the game All online mileage has been done under the same conditions we used to in GT5, with the exception of draft being set to real. So tyre wear is always set to normal. I'll accept that practise mileage might not count, as was the case in GT5 and that only race mileage will count, but that should still be a 1000 miles or more...

{Cy}

 

Looks like the 1.03 update changed the camber and LSD in the game. My C3 had to get a few adjustments to get back on track.

 

Curious, the cars I tested camber on still saw reduced lap times with any camber different than 0.0. I tested with the Mustang Boss 302 '13, Hyundai Click Type-R, NSX '91, and the Lancer Evolution GSR '92.

 

Well, if we're actually talking about what's easiest on testers, that's banning oil changes.
I guess that's my issue. A lot of people claim it's "easier" to change oil, which it is absolutely not, nor was it in GT5.

Oil changes need refreshed, power begins to drop off shortly after a change, and it drops down to "normal" level. (stock - not dirty, stock)
In GT5 this started at 200km(124mi) and finished at 300km(186mi)
In GT6 I'm not positive, it either starts at 200 or 300km though, as I lost power on a car with only 242.1 miles. (not sure when I had changed the oil last though) I'll run a test sometime soon.

Easier not to do something than it is to do it. Compounded by oil changes wearing off.

An additional bonus, is that many cars can be built with more straight line speed without an oil change, this is because of the games torque/pp calculations. Installing a sports cat, boosting rpm's by 2,000 will net more power and useable speed at a given pp than changing the oil would.
No, it's not an "always" rule, but for any shootout that has mandated oil changes, most of the cars can probably spec out faster in minutes by not changing the oil, and using other parts instead.


Also, some were enforcing oil changes back when we had car sharing, if I recall correctly.


Oh, I ran this some more, PP included.

 

Maybe it is just me lol or its classics, I saw reduced lap times with mid to high camber for sport tires while running for the FITT challenge.
Something of note, once I found the right camber, any change to it reduced the handling of the car, seemed like there was one camber number for front and one for the back, want like it was in Gt5 where you would get similar results with similar numbers +/- .1 wouldn't mean more than a few thousand of a second right now it seems like .1 off is a couple of seconds off the time

 

@CSLACR I see the point you are making. However, I believe the reason we started to require an oil change was because of that fluctuation between 2-300km.

For 100km your power is dropping. Some cars slowly some faster. If I have a car at 200 km with no oil change and someone else has one at 299+ I will be at a disadvantage because I will lose more power. Maybe I didn't have time to run the full distance into the car.

Yes, it is absolutely easier not to change oil but it is not necessarily as fair over all entries. If we say that all cars should have fresh oil we know there is about 200km of driving with even power. I doubt there are many testers who put that kind of distance on the cars.

I think there are three solutions that could be used (require oil change, require no oil change, leave it to the tuner) but all should have the stipulation that engine power should not decrease if driven for an extended period, whether with or without an oil change. It will be easier when we get sharing back as everyone will be using the same car rather than building their own.

Again I see your point, just putting a different angle on the discussion.

 

On the subject of Oil Changes...
If you do an oil change then run the bonus power off will it revert back to the same HP and Torque as a newly purchased car without oil change?

Not paid close enough attention/tested to see if a car does ever go back to same numbers once an oil change has been done to it...

 

Yes.

 

True. Do you think anyone is going to test a car or group of tunes with one car that will get deep enough into the miles to require an oil change?

 

In one sentence, it sounds like you're saying testers will drive over 526.1 miles (because you're talking about "losing power")
In another, you're saying testers won't drive far enough to wear off an oil change.

Well if they won't wear off an oil change, they sure as hell won't wear out "stock" oil (which lasts much longer) will they?

That would depend on the tester, and the amount of duplicate entries.
If you were worried about losing power by not changing oil, when you believed it lost power after a few hundred miles, you would logically have to be worried of exactly that when you do enforce oil changes. (aka you have it backwards)

A la GT5...
The only thing I've seen that is definitely "changed" from GT5, (regarding oil changes and refresh) is that chassis wear out after 500KM instead of 5,000KM. (guessing that is an oopsy)

In which case yes, it will drop to "stock" power, and then be perfectly fine for a grand total of 5,000KM, aka 3,100MI after the last oil change. (which is wildly longer than 124 miles for "fresh" oil)



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