G29 Settings Thread

  • Thread starter Sisco360
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Yard_Sale
Been reading this thread and others in relation to different wheel setups. The general consensus that I see is that the T-GT wheel is the only one that is pretty much good to go out of the box. Think I'll hold off another month to see if the settings get improved with the monthly updates....but it seems to be ongoing issues that they won't address. Maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe Thrustmaster and GTS had an "exclusive contract" that GT would only do updates for their brand of wheels the first year or something. That's actually not to far fetched considering that I'm willing to bet that GTS reached out to several companies to make a "Gran Turismo" wheel and Thrustmaster was the only company that was willing to take on the financial burden of doing so.

Maybe with this next update, they'll start making improvements for other setups. We'll have to wait and see
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The G29 is also good out of the box. But being an older wheel it has less power and fidelity. The T-gt is more optimized for the game, but that makes sense since the wheel was codeveloped by Polyphony. But as far as I know there is nothing wrong with the CSL either. I have never tried it, but the complaints I have seen are probably caused by the step from compatibility mode to the new supported native mode. Polyphony themselves implemented the Fanatec SDK. People are feeling things they werent used to and probably supposed to be there as intended by Polyphony. But FFB can be highly personal.
 
Yard_Sale
Been reading this thread and others in relation to different wheel setups. The general consensus that I see is that the T-GT wheel is the only one that is pretty much good to go out of the box. Think I'll hold off another month to see if the settings get improved with the monthly updates....but it seems to be ongoing issues that they won't address. Maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe Thrustmaster and GTS had an "exclusive contract" that GT would only do updates for their brand of wheels the first year or something. That's actually not to far fetched considering that I'm willing to bet that GTS reached out to several companies to make a "Gran Turismo" wheel and Thrustmaster was the only company that was willing to take on the financial burden of doing so.

Maybe with this next update, they'll start making improvements for other setups. We'll have to wait and see
Click to expand...

Remember, you don't hear the faucet that doesn't leak...

Don't let eliteism and 'armchair experts' fool you. The G29 is a fantastic peripheral that feels and functions fantastically.

The people looking to get the most out of a sim rig would obviously flock to threads like these and bemoan any wheel that isn't a thousand dollars.

But then you remember that there are FIA World Tour participants who use a controller... Spending all your time and money pursuiting perfection will leave you with neither. All i know is, I got a G29 and called it a day. If I could go back and do it all over again, I would stay with the G29 instead of putting that money towards a premium wheel (which I can easily afford)
 
Yard_Sale
Been reading this thread and others in relation to different wheel setups. The general consensus that I see is that the T-GT wheel is the only one that is pretty much good to go out of the box. Think I'll hold off another month to see if the settings get improved with the monthly updates....but it seems to be ongoing issues that they won't address. Maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe Thrustmaster and GTS had an "exclusive contract" that GT would only do updates for their brand of wheels the first year or something. That's actually not to far fetched considering that I'm willing to bet that GTS reached out to several companies to make a "Gran Turismo" wheel and Thrustmaster was the only company that was willing to take on the financial burden of doing so.

Maybe with this next update, they'll start making improvements for other setups. We'll have to wait and see
Click to expand...
I don't understand this post at all. The G29 works great out of the box for GT Sport and at a decent price point.
 
I don't doubt that its very good....and it would probably be better for me than using a controller not to mention more fun!! like I said, I've read this thread front to back as with a few others that talk about other setups. A common theme I've read in other threads was people costantly fiddling with the G29 to get it to work. I'm a set it and forget it kind of guy. I was completely sold on getting the G29 and then I started doing research and found that there were some common and consistent complaints with it. I haven't read a whole lot of bad about the T-GT besides the pedals. I could get whatever I wanted as far as setups, but this is a very new hobby for me so I'm not about to drop 1k+ into a setup that might be a passing fad for me. However, I am more than willing to spend a couple extra hundo if it means I'll be satisfied.


Conversely I am aware of the "placebo effect" that happens to many people who buy top notch stuff. People will search out threads or opinions that support the choice they made....especially if that choice is the more expensive one. I take everything I read on the interwebs with a grain of salt
 
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Once you find the torque and feedback settings you can get on with, you can forget all about them. It's a user preference thing though. Apart from the clipping (4 torque and above), there's plenty of scope left to find a near enough sweet spot.

I've got Dirt Rally and AC as well as GTS and it's great in those games. The G29 in GTS is a little numb compared to them but there's still plenty of detail to work with.

You've just got to have realistic expectations on what you can get from a G29. For one of the lowest power force feedback wheels, it does an admirable job and a perfect entry level wheel for the money. If you want more torque and feedback detail, look at Fanatec and Thrustmaster but be prepared to spend more.
 
again G29. one guy from reddit said that he changed his G29 degree of rotation from 900 to 200 via Logitech drivers and felt big improovement on GTS. As I know it changes only for PC gaming but after you plug it on console settings going to renew. Im confused. Anyone can confirm the truth?
 
domasijus
again G29. one guy from reddit said that he changed his G29 degree of rotation from 900 to 200 via Logitech drivers and felt big improovement on GTS. As I know it changes only for PC gaming but after you plug it on console settings going to renew. Im confused. Anyone can confirm the truth?
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He's an idiot. The second you plug it into the PS4 you lose all of those settings.
 
ARTAsean
He's an idiot. The second you plug it into the PS4 you lose all of those settings.
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kilesa4568
The guy's wrong as there's no way of changing the standard 900 degrees of rotation on consoles.

You can change it with Logitech software on a PC but only for titles on PC. There's no internal memory in the G29 to carry settings over to console.

Edit: Tree'd
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thanks. he is believing his truth 100 %... that placebo effect :D
Traks1
"one guy on reddit" :dopey:
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whats wrong? :D :D
 
domasijus
he is believing his truth 100 %... that placebo effect :D
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There might be some mitigation for him as he might have jumped in a car (in GTS) with a more acute soft lock. Like the F1, Red Bull or even the kart.

However you look at it though, he's wrong.
 
kilesa4568
There might be some mitigation for him as he might have jumped in a car (in GTS) with a more acute soft lock. Like the F1, Red Bull or even the kart.

However you look at it though, he's wrong.
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He used to have to turn his wheel roughly one and a half times in either direction from the center to get full-lock either side, but now he only turn about 100 degree each way to get full-lock. I quoted him. Maybe he has too much attention from us? :D
 
Hey, guys!
I think I might have a problem with that little red MFD wheel, but I'm not sure and I wanna ask if it's happened to you.
A lot of times that little wheel it's not responsive, especially when I'm into corners I noticed it won't change the parameter I want to change, have to wait for the straight line on track to make the change, that's what I noticed.
It happens to you, too, or its a problem?
And if it's a problem, do you know how can I fix it easy? I have spray for potentiometers, but I saw a video where a guy opened the entire wheel and, oh my God, have to take out one million screws. Isn't any quick way to get access to that potentiometer without opening the whole wheel ?
2018-10-16 17.42.57.jpg
 
ramurel
Hey, guys!
I think I might have a problem with that little red MFD wheel, but I'm not sure and I wanna ask if it's happened to you.
A lot of times that little wheel it's not responsive, especially when I'm into corners I noticed it won't change the parameter I want to change, have to wait for the straight line on track to make the change, that's what I noticed.
It happens to you, too, or its a problem?
And if it's a problem, do you know how can I fix it easy? I have spray for potentiometers, but I saw a video where a guy opened the entire wheel and, oh my God, have to take out one million screws. Isn't any quick way to get access to that potentiometer without opening the whole wheel ?
View attachment 774218
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The dial doesn't work while cornering. The only way around it is to remap the MFD to other buttons. I changed mine to the D-pad.
 
Woodybobs
The dial doesn't work while cornering. The only way around it is to remap the MFD to other buttons. I changed mine to the D-pad.
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Oh, so it's not broken, it's a regular G29 bug then ...? Thanks! I will try to reassign, but those D-pad are assigned to rear and sides view, so where have you put them ?
 
ramurel
Oh, so it's not broken, it's a regular G29 bug then ...? Thanks! I will try to reassign, but those D-pad are assigned to rear and sides view, so where have you put them ?
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I've read a number of posts from people with the same issue (and it's the same for me), so I assume every G29 user has the same problem. I've yet to read any fixes for it. I haven't ever used side view so that wasn't a problem for me and i switched rear view to triangle (I cant remember what was there before). Alternatively you could swap for the indicator buttons. it's a while since I did it so I can't fully remember what was where before, but I basically figured out what I needed the most and mapped accordingly.
 
I had the exact same issue as well.

I’ve remapped my MFD buttons to L2 and R2 (moved indicators to L3 and R3 and hazard to the enter button in middle of dial) now I can make changes whenever I like, wish I’d done it ages ago
 
Yard_Sale
I don't doubt that its very good....and it would probably be better for me than using a controller not to mention more fun!! like I said, I've read this thread front to back as with a few others that talk about other setups. A common theme I've read in other threads was people costantly fiddling with the G29 to get it to work. I'm a set it and forget it kind of guy. I was completely sold on getting the G29 and then I started doing research and found that there were some common and consistent complaints with it. I haven't read a whole lot of bad about the T-GT besides the pedals. I could get whatever I wanted as far as setups, but this is a very new hobby for me so I'm not about to drop 1k+ into a setup that might be a passing fad for me. However, I am more than willing to spend a couple extra hundo if it means I'll be satisfied.


Conversely I am aware of the "placebo effect" that happens to many people who buy top notch stuff. People will search out threads or opinions that support the choice they made....especially if that choice is the more expensive one. I take everything I read on the interwebs with a grain of salt
Click to expand...
G29 great no problems atall
 
Woodybobs
The dial doesn't work while cornering. The only way around it is to remap the MFD to other buttons. I changed mine to the D-pad.
Click to expand...

ramurel
Oh, so it's not broken, it's a regular G29 bug then ...? Thanks! I will try to reassign, but those D-pad are assigned to rear and sides view, so where have you put them ?
Click to expand...

Woodybobs
I've read a number of posts from people with the same issue (and it's the same for me), so I assume every G29 user has the same problem. I've yet to read any fixes for it. I haven't ever used side view so that wasn't a problem for me and i switched rear view to triangle (I cant remember what was there before). Alternatively you could swap for the indicator buttons. it's a while since I did it so I can't fully remember what was where before, but I basically figured out what I needed the most and mapped accordingly.
Click to expand...

steviea712
I had the exact same issue as well.

I’ve remapped my MFD buttons to L2 and R2 (moved indicators to L3 and R3 and hazard to the enter button in middle of dial) now I can make changes whenever I like, wish I’d done it ages ago
Click to expand...

It's not directly linked to cornering, but you just need to maintain the wheel perfectly still for it to work. This just happens to be easiest while on a straight.

It's frustrating :( somehow unique to GT:S
 
vvise
It's not directly linked to cornering, but you just need to maintain the wheel perfectly still for it to work. This just happens to be easiest while on a straight.

It's frustrating :( somehow unique to GT:S
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Well, I have same issue also in F1 2018 , that's why I thought that may be a potentiometer problem at my wheel ! Had similar feedback today about it in F1 from others, so seems to be a "normal" thing on Logitech G29! :(
 
ramurel
Well, I have same issue also in F1 2018 , that's why I thought that may be a potentiometer problem at my wheel ! Had similar feedback today about it in F1 from others, so seems to be a "normal" thing on Logitech G29! :(
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ah okay, I think someone mentioned that it isn't an issue in PCars games. good to know.
 
vvise
ah okay, I think someone mentioned that it isn't an issue in PCars games. good to know.
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It is an issue for Pcars also, just not as noticeable. But sometimes when changing brake bias (which I have it mapped for) it doesn’t register a click or two.
 
I've been using FFB settings 7/4/10 for a while as you guys recommended. But felt something is wrong... Today changed FFB sens to 1 and WOW! what I can tell you! A massive improvement! Immediately shaved about a second in qualifying at daily race C Mount Panorama with Lexus RCF. Now 2:04.321 (B/S). I have smoother turn in's, better exits and generally consistency has been increased. Im so happy that Im mentally back in GTS! Conclusion is that you dont need a strong FFB sens to feel cars behavior, road surface like curbs and so on. Just try and see what happens! Im not trying to say that works for everyone but for me proved to be true 100 %. And Im not trying to blame you for telling FFB sens 10 is good. Its a personal choice but try :)
 
Is there anyway to clean the internals of the pedals...i think mine may have sand or something in them. Doing race 3 today in the lexus and was only at half acceleration with the pedal fully depressed in number of instances( down conrod for 1), id then smash it and it would work again
 
domasijus
I've been using FFB settings 7/4/10 for a while as you guys recommended. But felt something is wrong... Today changed FFB sens to 1 and WOW! what I can tell you! A massive improvement! Immediately shaved about a second in qualifying at daily race C Mount Panorama with Lexus RCF. Now 2:04.321 (B/S). I have smoother turn in's, better exits and generally consistency has been increased. Im so happy that Im mentally back in GTS! Conclusion is that you dont need a strong FFB sens to feel cars behavior, road surface like curbs and so on. Just try and see what happens! Im not trying to say that works for everyone but for me proved to be true 100 %. And Im not trying to blame you for telling FFB sens 10 is good. Its a personal choice but try :)
Click to expand...


I´ve reached that conclusion.. years ago... 1st with my G25 (MOmo) after with my G27... then with my T500RS and last with my Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 ...
 
Chiefy17
Is there anyway to clean the internals of the pedals...i think mine may have sand or something in them. Doing race 3 today in the lexus and was only at half acceleration with the pedal fully depressed in number of instances( down conrod for 1), id then smash it and it would work again
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Yep. Best way is to take out the 326 screws from the bottom plate so you can get in and spray the living whoozits out of the little silver potentiometer pots on each pedal with a good electrical cleaner. Allow to dry (thoroughly) and should be all good to go after. Youtube is your best friend for deets on how to.
 
Traks1
Yep. Best way is to take out the 326 screws from the bottom plate so you can get in and spray the living whoozits out of the little silver potentiometer pots on each pedal with a good electrical cleaner. Allow to dry (thoroughly) and should be all good to go after. Youtube is your best friend for deets on how to.
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Once you've had to do this a couple or more times and realise that you're going to have to do it again eventually then those 326 screws magically become 4 screws ;)
 
Traks1
Yep. Best way is to take out the 326 screws from the bottom plate so you can get in and spray the living whoozits out of the little silver potentiometer pots on each pedal with a good electrical cleaner. Allow to dry (thoroughly) and should be all good to go after. Youtube is your best friend for deets on how to.
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Sweet mate thanks Haha thats the best way...hate to hear the hard way.
 
Slapped
Once you've had to do this a couple or more times and realise that you're going to have to do it again eventually then those 326 screws magically become 4 screws ;)
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lol I just had everything apart to clean out the inside of the pot for my accelerator, and now my brake is starting to have some issues.

Should have put it together worse on purpose :lol:

This video is super useful btw for cleaning:
 

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