G29 Settings Thread

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ChauncyMarsh
Been using G29 for about a month now and I really like it compared to the Ps3 Driving Force and Cronus Max I was using before (btw, anyone want to buy a CronusMax? ;)).

I've seen varying opinions on switching out the rubber brake bumper for a graduated spring. Any of you done it? I don't really have a problem with it stock but I have found myself pushing the pedal holder back in my Playseat Challenge once or twice when trying to really slam on the brakes.

What about mapping the brake to the clutch pedal? I find that the brake and gas are really close to each other and if I'm not barefoot or wearing the right shoes I end up mashing the wrong pedal. I have no intention of using a shifter so has anyone remapped? How is it?
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I just swapped brake and clutch pedals around not to difficult took about 20 min. Just be careful when changing sensor connctions... do it delicately..and don't forget to change springs.
 
Evoholic61
I just swapped brake and clutch pedals around not to difficult took about 20 min. Just be careful when changing sensor connctions... do it delicately..and don't forget to change springs.
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Ah, I see. Not a firmware change, but straight up switch the pedal connections. Might try that. Thx.
 
Seriously questioning my wheel now. Does it feel very grainy and with a lot of resistance when changing direction? I know it's trying to mimic a tyre contact patch, but if a car felt like this wheel does I'd be scared to open up the throttle. It also sort of sticks a bit when he car looses grip and it's almost impossible to to catch a slide with it. It just rips one way to the next instantly, no feeling of build up that you can sense corrective input against.
 
@ChauncyMarsh Have you moved the clutch and brake plates to the left for a little extra space? I'm size 11 and have a comfortable amount of room after I did it.

(I don't use the clutch either.)
 
VXR
Seriously questioning my wheel now. Does it feel very grainy and with a lot of resistance when changing direction? I know it's trying to mimic a tyre contact patch, but if a car felt like this wheel does I'd be scared to open up the throttle. It also sort of sticks a bit when he car looses grip and it's almost impossible to to catch a slide with it. It just rips one way to the next instantly, no feeling of build up that you can sense corrective input against.
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Mine feels the same, the only way I can describe it is very much on the edge, and once it goes sideways to the point I need to input a decent amount of opposite lock to catch it, it snaps the other way and away she goes...
 
steviea712
Mine feels the same, the only way I can describe it is very much on the edge, and once it goes sideways to the point I need to input a decent amount of opposite lock to catch it, it snaps the other way and away she goes...
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What camera do you guys use? If it's bumper, I find that view to be terrible for feeling and anticipating oversteer because you're basically sitting on top of the front axle instead of the middle of the car, so you're the last part of the car that actually realizes the back end is stepping out.
 
Pfei
What camera do you guys use? If it's bumper, I find that view to be terrible for feeling and anticipating oversteer because you're basically sitting on top of the front axle instead of the middle of the car, so you're the last part of the car that actually realizes the back end is stepping out.
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My preference is hood (bonnet) cam but I actually find it easier to correct the oversteer with bumper cam, and in races where I don’t run TC (currently trying to get used to not using TC in GR3) I find it better to use the bumper cam...

However, there is a saying, a bad workman blames his tools...
 
Oh for sure, I'm not writing it off until my stand arrives. I'm hoping the secure fit will make everything that much better.
 
VXR
Seriously questioning my wheel now. Does it feel very grainy and with a lot of resistance when changing direction? I know it's trying to mimic a tyre contact patch, but if a car felt like this wheel does I'd be scared to open up the throttle. It also sort of sticks a bit when he car looses grip and it's almost impossible to to catch a slide with it. It just rips one way to the next instantly, no feeling of build up that you can sense corrective input against.
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It can feel grainy, but I only really notice that if I'm just twiddling the wheel without driving. When I'm actually driving I don't really notice this.

As for the FFB settings this is how I understand them:

FFB Strength - this is effectively the self aligning torque - basically this is how much force the wheel will deliver as the front wheels try to return to going in the direction of the cars motion.

FFB Sensitivity - this is how resistant the wheel will be to initial change. So for example, a setting of 10 will give you a stiffer wheel when you want to make a small adjustment while going along a straight. A setting of 1 will give you a looser wheel when making the same adjustment.

FFS sensitivity does not appear to be in anyway related to surface detail, in fact to feel more detail I've found that you need to lower the FFB strength if anything.

As for catching slides, well that's just practice. it really is a balancing act between throttle, brake, and steering, and you do need to reduce your countersteer before the slide stops, otherwise you will get slapped in opposite direction as the rears regain grip. When I'm sliding I often find myself rapidly increasing and reducing countersteer 2 or 3 times and modulating the throttle/brake while "feeling" the car out of the slide. Once you get it you'll be smiling from ear to ear ;). I've found this as a general rule of thumb - the stickier the tire, the more difficult controlling a slide is, so bear that in mind, and also it will vary from car to car.

Don't give up on the G29, it may not be the best wheel out there, but it's 10 times more immersive than a controller.
 
Slapped
FFB Sensitivity - this is how resistant the wheel will be to initial change. So for example, a setting of 10 will give you a stiffer wheel when you want to make a small adjustment while going along a straight. A setting of 1 will give you a looser wheel when making the same adjustment.

FFB sensitivity does not appear to be in anyway related to surface detail, in fact to feel more detail I've found that you need to lower the FFB strength if anything.
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See this is what Im talking about. People keep telling me it's surface differences and a 30 second test can prove it's not.

To expand on what you said, I don't understand the purpose of FFB sensitivity. How *resistant* the wheel is to change, sounds an awful like TORQUE, doesn't it?

What is the point then of this setting? Is it possible to set the resistance higher than the torque? For example, say your FFB Torque equates to 3 pounds, can you set the Sensitivity to.. 5 pounds? this whole thing has my head spinning.

At what point does the resistance disengage? what benefit is there to a high/low resistance?
 
ARTAsean
See this is what Im talking about. People keep telling me it's surface differences and a 30 second test can prove it's not.

To expand on what you said, I don't understand the purpose of FFB sensitivity. How *resistant* the wheel is to change, sounds an awful like TORQUE, doesn't it?

What is the point then of this setting? Is it possible to set the resistance higher than the torque? For example, say your FFB Torque equates to 3 pounds, can you set the Sensitivity to.. 5 pounds? this whole thing has my head spinning.

At what point does the resistance disengage? what benefit is there to a high/low resistance?
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Honestly I can't put figures on it. It's like with FFB adjustment in all other sims in that it's pretty much an adjust to taste.

Try it for yourself, Set the FFB sensitivity to 10 and then drive along a straight and make some small adjustments. Then do it again but this time with the FFB sensitivity set to 1, and then see if you notice the difference.

Oh and if this is making your head spin then avoid the FFB settings in Project Cars 2 - I'm only just beginning to get a handle on what they do and how to mix and match.
 
Slapped
It can feel grainy, but I only really notice that if I'm just twiddling the wheel without driving. When I'm actually driving I don't really notice this.

As for the FFB settings this is how I understand them:

FFB Strength - this is effectively the self aligning torque - basically this is how much force the wheel will deliver as the front wheels try to return to going in the direction of the cars motion.

FFB Sensitivity - this is how resistant the wheel will be to initial change. So for example, a setting of 10 will give you a stiffer wheel when you want to make a small adjustment while going along a straight. A setting of 1 will give you a looser wheel when making the same adjustment.

FFS sensitivity does not appear to be in anyway related to surface detail, in fact to feel more detail I've found that you need to lower the FFB strength if anything.

As for catching slides, well that's just practice. it really is a balancing act between throttle, brake, and steering, and you do need to reduce your countersteer before the slide stops, otherwise you will get slapped in opposite direction as the rears regain grip. When I'm sliding I often find myself rapidly increasing and reducing countersteer 2 or 3 times and modulating the throttle/brake while "feeling" the car out of the slide. Once you get it you'll be smiling from ear to ear ;). I've found this as a general rule of thumb - the stickier the tire, the more difficult controlling a slide is, so bear that in mind, and also it will vary from car to car.

Don't give up on the G29, it may not be the best wheel out there, but it's 10 times more immersive than a controller.
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Don’t blame the wheel, blame GT Sport because the G29 is light years better in F1 2017! It feels awesome and F1 even puts a physical steering lock at 180 degrees. I didn’t even know that was possible!
 
Mirror_man
Are you absolutely sure on that?? Since either for Fanatec CSL or T500Rs both firmware updates affect ( a lot) wheel behaviour on consoles...
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Yes, if I update my G29 the firmware only works on pc, and it has no effect on the console.
 
Need some advice please.:confused:

Got my rig and G29 last night and setup etc. went smooth, except I had to practice for an hour just to equal and better my previous lap times. Nevertheless, still have two noobish questions -
  • After I signed in with the wheel and did a few races / practice and I then want to do other stuff using the DS4 controller [like painting etc.] do I then need to sign out [the wheel] and then sign in with the DS4 to be able to use it ?.
  • How do you use your earphones when driving with the wheel ?
Thanks, much appreciated.
 
FA Racing
Need some advice please.:confused:

Got my rig and G29 last night and setup etc. went smooth, except I had to practice for an hour just to equal and better my previous lap times. Nevertheless, still have two noobish questions -
  • After I signed in with the wheel and did a few races / practice and I then want to do other stuff using the DS4 controller [like painting etc.] do I then need to sign out [the wheel] and then sign in with the DS4 to be able to use it ?.
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No the wheel and controller work simultaniously on the same controller port (both control player 1)
(Edit: I haven't even found a way to disconnect the steering wheel after connecting it beside pulling out the USB)

FA Racing
  • How do you use your earphones when driving with the wheel ?
Thanks, much appreciated.
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You can connect them to the controller but it must be on for that (as I said the wheel and controller work simultaneously as Controller 1), so when you accidentally move the controller and the triggers get pushed while you're racing, you might be braking or giving gas without knowing it which can be irritating. So place the controller somewhere it won't be touched.
 
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Kalder
No the wheel and controller work simultaniously on the same controller port (both control player 1)
(Edit: I haven't even found a way to disconnect the steering wheel after connecting it beside pulling out the USB)


You can connect them to the controller but it must be on for that (as I said the wheel and controller work simultaneously as Controller 1), so when you accidentally move the controller and the triggers get pushed while you're racing, you might be braking or giving gas without knowing it which can be irritating. So place the controller somewhere it won't be touched.
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That sounds good, thanks mate, much appreciated.
 
How do you guys handle the throttle progression?
It never hit me before, but last night at Suzuka, after not racing it for a while, I noticed that getting to 80% or 50% throttle takes only a millimeter of pedal lift off.
Now, I'd understand for 80-90% throttle that the pedal needs a tiny release, but even for 50%?
I mean, fine throttle control is not so intuitive with this thing, what's the throttle curve of it, compared to other pedals?
 
Suntek
How do you guys handle the throttle progression?
It never hit me before, but last night at Suzuka, after not racing it for a while, I noticed that getting to 80% or 50% throttle takes only a millimeter of pedal lift off.
Now, I'd understand for 80-90% throttle that the pedal needs a tiny release, but even for 50%?
I mean, fine throttle control is not so intuitive with this thing, what's the throttle curve of it, compared to other pedals?
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This isn't a G29 specific issue: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/non-linear-throttle.366409/
 
Hello. I wanna ask people who have G29 pedals with GTEYE springs. About brakes pedal. Are you using it with that black rubber or without it ?
 
Been reading this thread and others in relation to different wheel setups. The general consensus that I see is that the T-GT wheel is the only one that is pretty much good to go out of the box. Think I'll hold off another month to see if the settings get improved with the monthly updates....but it seems to be ongoing issues that they won't address. Maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe Thrustmaster and GTS had an "exclusive contract" that GT would only do updates for their brand of wheels the first year or something. That's actually not to far fetched considering that I'm willing to bet that GTS reached out to several companies to make a "Gran Turismo" wheel and Thrustmaster was the only company that was willing to take on the financial burden of doing so.

Maybe with this next update, they'll start making improvements for other setups. We'll have to wait and see
 

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