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Discussion in 'GT6 Drifting' started by JDM SRE70, Dec 6, 2013.
ahhhhh dude thank you so much. I can't wait to test it out
Silverstone _ Stowe Circuit_4 by konyar0, on Flickr
SETUPCar Make/Model: Skyline HT 2000 RS-X Turbo C (R30) missile edition
Logitech G27 Steering Wheel
Weight ratio 55:45
Suspension (Heigh-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Front: 85mm Rear: 85mm
Front: 8.60kgf/mm Rear: 6.45kgf/mm
Front: lvl 4 Rear: lvl 3
Front: lvl 3 Rear: lvl 2
Front: lvl 7 Rear: lvl 5
Camber Angle (-)
Front: 2.0° Rear: 0.2°
Front: -0.20° Rear: 0.00°
Brakes: Racing brakes
Front: 5. Rear: 2
Fully Customisable Mechanical Limited-Slip Differential
Initial Torque: 60
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 60
Clutch & Flywheel: Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Propeller Shaft
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine tuning : stage 2
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Sports Catalytic Converter
Low range turbo
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No
Weight reduction stage 3
Carbon Hood (Body color)
Windows weight reduction
Ballast: 66kg @ +50%
Comments : Pretty easy to drift on the low to medium speed tracks, might require some more throwing around on the faster courses (but still really capable and fun)
Silverstone _ Stowe Circuit_2 by konyar0, on Flickr
A little demontration of what an average drifter like me can do with it.
The Chaser great wheel base and fun to drift
You have a setup for DS3 on this car ?
Sorry bro, I only have wheel set-ups.
Sup fellow drifters, new to GTP!
A lot of these tune-ups were very helpful. Just one question, and I apologize if this has been asked before, but for anyone who uses the PS3 DS3 controller, what is your controller steering sensitivity setting at?
I used to use 5 on DS3 try it. But now I'm on a wheel.
Its probably more of a trial and error thing. Play with the slider to find where you like. Try it on the lowest, then on the highest to find how it effects you and go from there.
could anyone do me a tune for
* Blitz dunlop er34 skline 07
* nissan bluebird 1600 s10 not rally edition and it already has all upgrades except nos.
i use ds3 controller
Just curious if there are any tunes for:
Nissan bluebird sss
Nissan skyline 2000gt-b
Toyota celica 1600gt
I have a few tunes ive been messing with, just wanna compare notes with someone with a bit more experience.
Using a ds3 btw
-2 I think.
(and so do a lot of other DS3 users in here if I'm not mistaken. The purpose is to be as smooth as possible - mind you in DS3 it's always a hard task - with the less wheel twitching possible)
The ER34 is driftable straight out the box, besides tuning the LSD I think it's perfectly fine.
anyone got a solid 180sx tune?
Try : 8/6
Go from there for ajusting to liking
That llooks good. Springs and dampers could differ, of course.
prettty boy, you push a stick left and right. we spin a circle thing.
Does anyone have a tune for the Camaro Touring Car or the ISF?
@Warren4649 First every time I've drifted properly in GT6, what a tune that is, very easy tune for noobs like me.
Car Make/Model: camaro ss Touring car '10
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 742 hp
Weight: 1.210 kg
Performance Points: 631
Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height Front: 110 Rear: 110
Spring Rate Front: 14.59 kg Rear: 14.44 kg
Dampers (Compression) Front: 3 Rear: 4
Dampers (Extension) Front: 4 Rear: 3
Anti-Roll Bars Front: 3 Rear:3
Camber Angle (-)Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle Front: -0.09° Rear: 0.20°
Drivetrain (Fully Customisable Transmission)
Speed: 250 km/h
Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Mechanical Limited-Slip Diff
Initial Torque: 60
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 14
Clutch & Flywheel: --
Propeller Shaft: Carbon
Oil Change: Yes
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Stage 3
Exhaust Manifold: --
Intake Tuning: --
Turbo Kit: supercharger
I've only recently started drifting with a wheel (normally I use DS3, although for normal racing I use a wheel). I found the Jaguar XKR-S to be a really good car to practice at Tsukuba. Fully stock, just put Comfort Hards and you can hold slides all day long.
I'm a bit confused about LSD settings though. 5/60/5 feels best for me with a variety of cars. I tried 60/60/5 but that makes it harder to initiate a slide and also makes the car prone to snapback. 60/60/60 makes it even harder to initiate a slide. But doesn't drifting IRL use a locked diff which corresponds to 60/60/60? I don't know if it's my technique or the game just doesn't simulate LSD that well. Looking through this thread most tunes use 5/60/5 or 60/60/5 (or close to that pattern). A few use 5/60/60 or 60/60/60. It's just really confusing. I know every car is different but there should be a consistent pattern that you can use as a base template.
I should note that I mostly use power over and weight shifting (Scandinavian flick) to initiate my drifts. I don't use e-brakes since I don't have a mount for the shifter and using a button on the wheel is pretty difficult when the wheel keeps turning around.
Why don't you try by clicking on the each of the components of the LSD (Initial Torque, Acc Sensitivity, Braking Sensitivity)? It explains what each do and the possibles
outcomes if handled another way.
For me, it took a long time to understand it and unite that knowledge with the other functions of suspension, as a hole, weight and weight distribution. One you get
the idea of what each thing does, feels, etc., it will all be a lot clearer.
This will not occur in one day, a week, or perhaps a month. You'll need to experience the feeling of the differences and not always by yourself but with other people aka
P.S: DS3 user. (X-gas) (SQUARE-brake) (R2-ebrake)
I did read the in-game manual. But as we all know sometimes PD gets things wrong (like with the ride height in GT5 and camber in GT6). I should also note that I can tune properly for normal racing and know what the effects of all of the settings are. It's just for drifting sometimes things can be counterintuitive. For example in normal racing higher diff values will make your car more stable, but in drifting it can give you more wheelspin. That's why I'm a bit confused. And yes, I know practice makes perfect. But I just want some explanation from expert drift tuners of the logic behind using such and such LSD values. I like to understand the physical concepts behind something instead of just using it blindly
And I'm not trying to undermine your skills, or others drifting with DS3, but I found with a wheel the car is much more sensitive to setup changes and you really need to get it right. I can drift alright with DS3 already and setups didn't matter as much. But I'm trying to learn with a wheel now and also learning about setups. I have a pretty good template for suspension, but for LSD it's still a bit hit-and-miss, hence my question above.
Hmm . . . Understandable.
Foremost, everything I know and have experienced in the drifting scene, it has been self taught.
Unlike you, unfortunately, I haven't experience the racing scene yet, therefore; I can't give my opinion on that one.
Unfortunately, once again, I'm not at the level to be able to explain such terms (LSD wise and such). I could say that I can't because I'm still and will always be on the learning path, everyday learning something new. Don't get me wrong, I understand 'em fully, as well as suspension and everything else -as I believe- but . . . I don't think I'm able to put it on words.
Indeed of what you say about the setup changes when using a wheel. I've heard and seen it, obviously, not experienced it. I could disagree with you on one point related with a DS3 user and the setups.
If I may say, and I know I'm going and went off topic but related, the common/regular DS3 user that one see around, don't
pay attention to certain things like smoothness, they put the same setup on each car, or don't even have
I, for instance, have always looked up to wheel users and how they managed their cars, hence I would, and
still do, try to imitate how they'd handle their cars. With time and dedication, as a DS3 user, tunes did/do
matter as much. Think about it, just steering, its a lot more difficult to get it right than a wheel user. It takes
a lot of time to get that down and have a smooth steering while drifting -and here is one of the factors that
lsd and suspension come into play(weight and weight distribution as well. One works, with the weight they
feel comfortable with). Then it came throttle and braking control, and even more when one uses the bottoms
I use, which I can humbly say I've a really good control of (no abs, of course).
Well, my apologies for wasting your time and dragging this down, and even more, not even answering you
I used to use 5/60/60. Found in the end the wheelspin was too uneven for me so I have now gone to 60/60/60.
However I found in my ma70 supra, I had to lower it to 60/40/60 otherwise the acceleration output was too violent and would either straighten up or oversteer. Braking sensitivity I keep high as I like the lift off oversteer. However it will affect the amount of time you have to change gears, if you have a clutch. Having a locked diff you will want to keep inertia into corners, and power over will be much harder to pull off successfully.
The other reason you like having a low braking sensitivity could be due to running a too higher rear toe angle value also? It really effects what the car does during throttle modulation, and I found it to be the biggest problem of snapback. I tend to use 0.10 on slow cars and upto 0.16 on higher powered cars with plenty of wheelspin.
Don't apologize mate, I respect every input from everyone I've never been a good drifter so I'm just trying to learn as much as possible and be open to suggestions. And again, I didn't mean to insinuate that DS3 drifting is easy. It IS a lot harder to modulate your controls with just buttons and sticks, but I find you have more room to work with because you can go 0-100% in throttle/brake/steering more quickly, hence LSD setups don't have to be perfect. With a wheel even a small change can have a large effect. Again, maybe I'm just not that good yet to make consistent judgements.
I find high powered cars need Initial 60. But since I'm still practicing and mostly drift low powered cars I use Initial 5. I'm sure Accel 60 is definitely locked, so I always use that. Decel I'm still a bit confused. Most people seem to use Decel 60, but I can't even start the slide with that setting, so I use Decel 5. Rear toe I mostly use 0.10-0.15 (pretty similar to you actually). Then again, I don't have the e-brake or clutch function since I have nowhere to mount my H-shifter. I can only initiate drifts with inertia and power over.
So in summary, my main setting is 5/60/5. I'm guessing if I can use e-brake/clutch 5/60/60 is the way to go.
Also, I've just read through all 8 pages of this drifting subforum, and the consensus seems to be as follows:
5/60/60 - welded diff
60/5/5 - viscous diff
XX/60/5 - 1 way diff
XX/60/30 - 1.5 way diff
XX/60/60 - 2 way diff
Also some good websites on drift tuning IRL:
Hmm . . . Interesting. I don't believe I've ever felt, with LSD settings as you show, the wheel spin 'uneven'. What it would make it uneven, as far as I understand, is a
acc sensitivity not been max. Why, because when it ain't the power distribution to the rear wheels is not equal. It will send more power to the wheel that needs it the
most and not to both at the same time, which I believe its what we need. (This will be felt more as lower the digit is.) It will also encourage understeer and even more
when manji on long straights -for a DS3 user, of course which its harder/complicated to have a consistent throttle and steering control. (Still talking if not having acc
Interesting part here is this, "The other reason you like having a low braking sensitivity could be due to running a toe value rear toe angle also? It really effects what
the car does during throttle modulation." I'm trying to comprehend this statement, if it may be called like that.
Well, first but not least, if I'm not mistaken toe angle or better said, rear toe angle and a low braking sensitivity don't have anything to do with one another. What it
would affect during 'throttle modulation' (as I understand this expression) would be, which perhaps is what you meant, the rear toe angle. Rear toe angle, while the
value is greater the more the car will want to go forward in the sense that it will give one forward inertia. (Umm . . . don't think that's well explained. Ugh, I knew I'm
not good at this.)
For instance, if one puts a high value in the rear, while drifting, it will make the car snappy (Increases understeer) because since the tires are facing more inward than
natural, it will bring the car straight. Plus it can also lead to lost of angle or won't let you get angle. (If one experiment with this, it would be more understandable)
There are various way to control the snap (understee), one of 'em been controlling the rear toe and other components.
Braking sensitivity without ABS: "High sensitivity will increase stability when braking, but will also inhibit the ability of the left and right wheels to turn at different
speeds, increasing understeer on corner entry." For me, the lower the number the better and Imma explain why. (One of the main, and I think the only reason why I do
not use ABS is because . . . you could say that I use the 'left foot technique' or whatever it is called. When tandem, for me to follow, hold a really smooth line, or gain
angle while chasing, I press the brake slightly while still on the gas -if needed, the pressure can be more. Of course, for a good result/outcome for this process, brakes
have to be tuned.) I'd say, the braking 'power', it wouldn't be send even to the wheels, therefore; helping more this technique. (I really can't explain this but I would
be able to show it)
This 'technique doesn't go with everybody, but I do find it really effective.
Thank you for understanding.
You said, ''I find high powered cars need Initial 60.'' Well, I disagree with you. When having high hp cars, if you have the Initial Torque all out, when you touch that
gas, that car will spin the hell out of his life on the sample place and no forward motion. It would not be able to grip with sooo much spin from the get-go.
Initial TOrque: "The higher the setting, the less likely unexpected changes in handling are to occur, but the more likely you are to experience understeer"
Side Note: Every comment made by me, is/are my personal opinion and not a fact.
Im just going to say its all down to personal preference. It will also vary depending on the car, not just the driver. I think its just the driver that applies their own base template and works it to suit the car. And unless PD give out preset welded diff, and other preset "simpler" diff/LSD set ups, there will probably never be a consistent pattern.
Hmm . . . Indeed.
See that's the weird thing. I thought Initial 60 is fully locked, but after reading through this whole forum (and based on my tests so far), it seems Initial 5 is fully locked. Confusingly Accel & Decel 60 is fully locked. So with high HP cars you want it to lock less quickly to avoid oversteer, which means you use Initial 60. The in-game description is correct in describing its effects, but higher values =/= locked. In the current Eiger seasonal I used the Jay Leno Oldsmobile with 1000+ HP. With Initial 5 I couldn't control it well and keep spinning, but with Initial 60 the slides are a lot milder and easier to control.
Probably this is true as well. I guess I'll just use whatever feels right and keep practicing
Thanks for all your help everyone
I pretend GT LSD is some giant springs.
Your intial torque is what controls the speed difference between the 2 wheels.
Acceleration is how agressive the wheels engage when power is applied. So a REALLY tight spring for higher values.
Braking sensitivity is how aggressive the wheels engage when the power is removed. ^ like above.
Thats how I treat it, and it works for me.