- 28

- Canada
I’m using the RS pedals now a couple weeks, coming straight from a G29 setup. It didn’t take me any getting used to it at all, it feels almost natural like the brakes in the vehicles I drive on a daily basis.
Wait, Logitech partnered with them? Like officially? I just assumed it was a third party rim for the RSHub like the others (SimPush, Acelith, RogueRacing, Simucube, etc.). The only official partnerships I know of are Momo and McLaren.Watch out if you buy the gt 310 from https://maxpapisinc.com/product-cat...racing/sim-racing-wheels/logitech-rswheelhub/
Mine isn’t properly drilled the outer screws. The plastic piece bulges out on all 3 sides and the wheel is loose. Customer service told me to push down. I pushed as hard as I could hurt my hand and nothing. The screws just fall out and can’t be attached. Lame company. Too bad Logitech partnered with them. It makes Logitech look bad. My momo rims were flawless by the way. Screwed in nice and smooth.
I was responding to another post who mentioned their friends experiences and theirs too. It reminded me of that video as first one really to compare both. It seems quite rare in sim racing reviews (A lot seem like promos nowadays) to see someone compare actual performance so good to see ISR return and add something of substance missing in this space.A 5 lap stint with each set doesnt seem a sample big enough to conclude wich one is better or faster Imho.
What they can say is that they adapted faster to the LC brake of the RS than the pro (in fact, he says that in the video)
I don't think so. Momo and McLaren wheels are advertised on the Logitech website, MPI are not.Wait, Logitech partnered with them? Like officially? I just assumed it was a third party rim for the RSHub like the others (SimPush, Acelith, RogueRacing, Simucube, etc.). The only official partnerships I know of are Momo and McLaren.
They did nerf it at one point. Make sure you max out controller vibration. I don’t have mine maxed out, but that’s a preference thing.How are you guys playing gt7 with the g pro?
I have just received a g pro bundle and am upset the trueforce seems so weak.
I thought my wheel was malfunctioning and im considering returning it because im so upset about the nerfing
Yeah the only way to even faintly feel it is to have it maxed out for meThey did nerf it at one point. Make sure you max out controller vibration. I don’t have mine maxed out, but that’s a preference thing.
If you have the PS base, that rim, assuming it’s connected to the RS Hub will work with PlayStation.![]()
GT 310 SUPERCAR x logitech rs wheel hub – Max Papis Innovations
COMPATIBLE with Logitech® G RS Wheel Hub The GT-RS-310 EXACT REPLICA of the racing wheels used in the SUPERCARS CHAMPIONSHIP and professional GT racing, designed exclusively by MPI for the Logitech® G RS Wheel Hub. This high-performance steering wheel brings the precision, grip, and feel of real...maxpapisinc.com
This is why im so confused on why this wont work on Playstation, surely the Playstation button is in the hub and the chip is in the base meaning you should be able to use any rim?
Seems a mine field. Im sure i read 3rd party wheels dont work on PS, But surely its the hub and the base that identifies it?If you have the PS base, that rim, assuming it’s connected to the RS Hub will work with PlayStation.
If you use the QR adapter (no electronics) then you won’t get PS support (a 3rd party wheel might fall into this). If you use the RS Hub with the buttons and controls you will get PS support (you can attach a 3rd party rim to the RS Hub).But the logitech guy said 3rd party wheels dont work with PS.
So PC users can get that SIMAGIC GT Neo Steering Wheel goodness while PS users canot?If you use the QR adapter (no electronics) then you won’t get PS support (a 3rd party wheel might fall into this). If you use the RS Hub with the buttons and controls you will get PS support (you can attach a 3rd party rim to the RS Hub).
PS users cannot run that wheel on the G Pro. On the G Pro that wheel would interface with the PC via USB directly. On PS, you can only have one device attached to it. So you can either have the Logitech G Pro or the GT Neo (but the GT Neo has no official support for PS).So PC users can get that SIMAGIC GT Neo Steering Wheel goodness while PS users canot?
We provide Specs/CAD to anyone who requests them, MPI included.If the plan is to allow 3rd party to fill in the gaps. Why can't they also have a hub spec they can build around.
Yes has happened to me twice in the space of 4 months. Not sure what triggers it, seems random to me.Has anyone experienced force feedback "dropping out" mid race? Happened twice to me now, it doesn't go 100% but drops to maybe 10% of the power it should have (so only really big compressions are felt). Clears after restarting the game and wheel, and only started happening recently
2 times in a year of use and both times after some big crash.Has anyone experienced force feedback "dropping out" mid race? Happened twice to me now, it doesn't go 100% but drops to maybe 10% of the power it should have (so only really big compressions are felt). Clears after restarting the game and wheel, and only started happening recently
Thanks for confirming Rich, Sad to see they’re not taking advantage of it. If anyone has any optional settings for RaceRoom for either base please feel free to share them 🙂The Raceroom team have currently opted not to support it.
Well it's happening now A LOT...sure it may be this week's daily and the car and track at hand.The video you linked regards a specific physical issue that would always be detectable (a wobble in the QR adapter on the base) and has no effect on force feedback, so I don't think this is what's happening. The warble you've previously mentioned seems more like force feedback output which, in an dynamic output scenario like this, can of course change because the output from the game will change depending on a host of different factors (car grip, weight shift, driver input, tires etc.).
Is this specific to GT7? Your description of the issue sounds like the oscillation effects you get on high downforce, heavy FFB vehicles in GT7 where the wheel kind of just oscillates (or wobbles) uncontrollably once you’re at a certain speed. You can kind of adjust to this by holding the wheel slightly tilted left or right (and switching between the two to keep the car going straight), or lowering the FFB. I mainly notice the issue on Gr3, Gr2, and Gr1 cars. From my understanding, this occurs with just about any wheelbase. There were some clips from this weekend’s live events where you can see the drivers dealing with the heavy oscillation/wobbles on Road Atlanta; they’re running Fanatec wheels.Well it's happening now A LOT...sure it may be this week's daily and the car and track at hand.
Ill reiterate...it feels like the entire base rocks drastically. I think using warble maybe I'm miscommunicating...it's a mechanical wobble.
My in game torque runs between 3-5, and on wheel strength between 8.5 and 10.5...but 8.5 atm.
If I'm being honest, telling me there are a dynamic set of factors....you know my background a little bit...which I'll spare the group.
So let's assume I understand there are a dynamic set of factors.
Thats like saying sorry this wheel isn't anywhere near capable enough to properly handle how gt7 handles force feedback. Since there is no way this is normal...there is no way my 17 year old son would be strong enough to control the car when this happens.
Im past my warranty so I know I'm SOL...I would actually buy a replacement, I'm not looking for a handout.
But if this isn't a wheel issue and just how it is...why on earth would I?
No I understand that. This is different. I'm well aware of the oscillation issues. It always and only originates from the same point, it's not truforce but rather the heavy FFB forces.Is this specific to GT7? Your description of the issue sounds like the oscillation effects you get on high downforce, heavy FFB vehicles in GT7 where the wheel kind of just oscillates (or wobbles) uncontrollably once you’re at a certain speed. You can kind of adjust to this by holding the wheel slightly tilted left or right (and switching between the two to keep the car going straight), or lowering the FFB. I mainly notice the issue on Gr3, Gr2, and Gr1 cars. From my understanding, this occurs with just about any wheelbase. There were some clips from this weekend’s live events where you can see the drivers dealing with the heavy oscillation/wobbles on Road Atlanta; they’re running Fanatec wheels.
Edit: I should note that if I’m below 6-7 Nm of max force I really don’t notice the issue while driving. If I take either hand off the wheel or loosen the grip, the oscillation effects do come out though. Note this 6-7 Nm where the line is drawn will differ from person to person.