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Discussion in 'GT6 Tuning' started by mike102888, Dec 7, 2013.
Fat fingered my phone.
First off raise the ride height to the max. That always helps the car handle better.
Really there is no reason to tune the car in single car runs by yourself. The car will handle fine by itself. But when you get into the draft then the time spent tuning will really show. Now my theory is that handling is more important than straight line speed.
Remember, PD scanned Daytona in 2007 before it was repaved in 2010. That means that this version in GT6 is bumpy as all get out and doesn't have much grip.
Therefor handling is a big factor when racing here in stock cars. And usually a car that runs slower by itself is the one that comes across the line first. A car that can stick like glue to the bottom is the best car you can have.
So first order of business when tuning the car after maxing the ride heights is to stiffen the springs up. Now I think around the 18-21 range for both rear and front springs is a good area to start. Put the rear springs 1.00 - 2.00 higher than the fronts, and then focus on getting the car sealed to the track using the dampers. You can also use the dampers to help gain speed on the straights. Remember, compression is how resistant the shocks are to being compressed down by the car on a scale from 1-10, one being the easiest to push down, 10 being the hardest. The opposite is true for extension. Extension dampening is how resistant the shock is to rebounding, or coming back up, after being compressed.
If you run soft compression, and high extension shocks, the car will stay low to the ground. You especially want the back end out of the air to gain speed on the straights, so long as you aren't giving up time in the corners.
I maxed out both front and rear ARB's simply because I don't want any chassis roll in the corner. Roll = friction, friction= speed loss.
I run no downforce whatsoever and use the chassis to make my car handle.
So take this advice and go make your car drive around the bottom with as little steering input as possible and you should be good to go
After racing with WhoosierGirl/Nautical or Elite_50/Bull you might think differently about that. They both have crazy fast solo cars and that knowledge would seem to have trickled down to their race setups, they are about as fast and clean as your going to find online.
One of the things that ruins some of the good clean nascar rooms is people just show up without putting time in learning how to setup a nascar. Killer posted a good base setup months ago, even hosted a room for helping people.
There is good setups posted here but all of them would have to be somewhat tweaked to fit each car and each driver. Not one of the setups is going to fit every driver or ever car, find one that feels safe and go practice solo and learn what settings change what. Then go race and apply what you learned so you don't paste someone into turn 3.
Yes, a fast car in solo will usually be a fast car in race, but it's more important to to tune for race and using races as a testing ground.
I try to provide people with base setups that they can tweak and change as they like. I prefer a car that handles good and can move around at will. Some people prefer a car that will absolutely fly down the straights and try to hold onto it in the corners. I try to provide a mix between the two.
Most of my setup knowledge comes from Nr2003 and iRacing from the setups I've made over the past 10 or so years. It's just a strange hassle trying to set a stock car up using a road course chassis and aero with symmetrical setups. Plus I have no ability to touch air pressure, which I'm sure is put somewhere around 20-30 psi.
But basically my point in saying that was seeing people go and try to set the rear end all the way to the floor and fly by themselves, and then flying off into turn 1 in a race and not being able to hold the car in the corner anymore.
Holding the corner speed means more now than it ever did with the lack of draft since the latest update.
Some have corner and top end speed figured pretty well.
Yep, it's all about that balance between sucking up and being able to hold the speed in the corner with minimum input. I like this new aero model
I do also, less popcorn in the corners from people plowing to much from behind. You have to work your way up with speed and strategy.
Yeah, out of all things that PD gets wrong, they got the racing at Daytona right. It is absolutely superb now, it's even better than NASCAR 2014 IMO
Yes it is. Probably the closest to real in the game.
For the gear setup do you have to tune all 4 at the same time or are the 2 different, i'm having a hard time figuring that out.
hi, can you show me how to setup a car like you have I race against u online or is there any good sites thanks
how do u set that up w/o the transmission on Daytona?
Sorry, but I don't quite understand the question.
I do have both AJ cars and they are going about 207 before the turn. It seems that everyone passes me up when I am a half lap a head of them. Am I doing something wrong or are they most likely hacked cars or good tune ups? I find the 2013 cars most useful for motegi and indy. I have 11 nascars and it seems like the other people are going at leas 210 or more. The suspension set ups I got are useful and reliable for some cars. Thanks.
I need help setting my AJ car up my speeds are to low.
I am guessing you are going to Dirty Nascar rooms, they set the room up with boost on high. With boost you can have a car that is a second a lap faster than everyone else and it won't keep them from catching you. The leader gets slowed down and the last place car will be running crazy fast lap times.
If your half a lap in front and loosing ,then what are you loosing too? and in under how many laps ,and what slip stream strength as loosing to a fast pack chasing a solo car in under 10 laps is just the way it goes or was prior to the slipstream update ,you simply cant outrun a solid fast pack on your own if theres enough laps remaining for them to chase you down
I find it best in situations like that to save race replay and watch exactly why you lost. It could be the as stated above ,or assuming it was a tyre wear race ,your tyres are gone ,your no where near as fast because of loss of traction and or you opted for a harder compound which are slower this could cost you upto a second a lap maybe more against the driver whos got fresh soft tyres in a 1-v-1 situation
You know i was going to ask if it was a dirty nascar race as i havent seen his name in a room i`m in ,but then i thought surely he knows what boost does
I could be wrong but, it sounds like he is talking about dirty rooms, not everyone seems to know about all the different slipsteam and draft settings. Give me a half lap lead with the new REAL draft settings and I like my chances, lol.
Yh new real draft settings with half a lap lead you got time to spin it 180 and do the last part in reverse and wave to the fans as you cross the line
I am talking about with no draft and everything else off. Even driving in those bad rooms with strong boost on. Last night I started first and right away I was crashed with tire wear and fuel turned off, I was a lap behind it took 2 laps to catch up to them than I was crashed again, lol. There playing in packs.
Look at the setups posted and then come back.
My guess is that you're either A, using a default setup which won't get you anywhere, or B, your transmission is setup to where your getting past the peak torque/hp ban too quickly. Anything past around 8500 RPM and the HP drops off like a cliff. You have to set the transmission to where 4th gear is hitting the hp peak around 205-210, depending on what you like
I kinda noticed no transmission tunes on here but the rest of the setups are cool and good speeches.
This is true and theres good reason for it ,most are too hard to explain without the new top speed being displayed in GT6 when you move the final gear
Great topic here,
learnt a lot, again
thanks to all off you
Look under her avatar, that's her PSN ID's.
Ride Height: 60/70
Spring Rate: 24.55/21.00
Dampers (Comp): 2/2
Dampers (Ext): 2/2
Anti-Roll Bars: 7/7
Brakes & Calipers: 4/2
i) Final Gear to 5.000
ii) Top Speed in 240 km/h
iv) Final Gear to 2.975
Note: You can change 1st and 2nd to improve the launch of the car. You will have faster exit from the pit box.
Initial Torque: 60
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5
Notice that lower ride height will give you higher top speed, something that will help you improve your lap times.
My best time lap in Daytona was 0:44,2xx using 50/60 in ride height, but I changed it in 60/70 to have more stability in races with a lot of draft.
The car can hold both inside and outside lines very well.
Special thanks to @kostasteam3 for the Base tune and to @meek for his tips & advices.
Good luck & enjoy your drive
Could you send me your "Trans-Setup" For this run. Thanks...Steve