Thanks a lot for explaining this. So to see if I understood correctly, it's a shorter first gear and everything else equally spaced out after that?
I've also used your tunes to great success in the WRS so thanks for tuning providing the tunes. For the offline tunes I'm not quite sure what you mean by this
Depending of your car , the track you race, the max speed that your car will reach on this track, you'll need:
- a 1st gear not too shoort (wheel spin) and not too long (not enough torque to maintain the tire to the limit of the grip, Drag racers knows perfectly where this exact point stand.)
-A last gear that reach the max speed at max RPMxHP you need on this specific track.
Exactly for time trial , with a little margin allowing draft when you race in room with other cars.
-Then spread the intermediary gears , visually on the setting panel graph, it's the easiest way.
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For the difference between OFFLINE and ONLINE settings, ONLINE settings are more sensitive, specially the ride height.
Knowing that in GT5 when you raise the front and/or low the rear, this input will increase oversteer to your car.
You can do this test.
Take any FR car and set OFFLINE a ride height that will let it agressive but safe, showing a good eagerness in the turns ,in and out.
Then go online and check the reaction of your car on the same track ,same turns.
It will spin like "Hollyday on ice"
Now do the oposit:
Set your ride height ONLINE till you feel a good agressive car at the limit of oversteer but still safe.
Then go OFFLINE with it.
Your car will be well balanced (even too much neutral for a good driver), showing some understeer sometime.
But, the good setting point will be close and a simple small RH correction will be enough to drive your car OFFLINE with the same behaviors than ONLINE.
I know my english don't allow me to be clear enough.
Check what one of the fastest guy on the planet say about this.
By eclipsi_RC:
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WRS GT5 - Div 1 Gold | PAL | G25 | Fanatec CSR
Spanish GT Academy Finalist 2008, 2010, 2011 and 2012
SUSPENSION
Suspension
I take as the whole columns of front and rear suspension are swapped in the menu, what there says it's front in fact it's rear, and what there says it's rear in fact it's front.
Ride Height
The usual starting point for most cars is default values, I do 1 or 2 laps and I see what's the car behaviour, later I go to the extreme max front/min rear, this setting often will give you a quite oversteering car, for 4WD or FF cars I always use this setting to get rid off the understeering, but for some FR or MR cars this can differ a bit.
If you have too much oversteering keep lowering the front ride height bit by bit until you get rid off that oversteering, if you still have too much oversteering at min/min (thing that would be rare), keep rising the rear ride height bit by bit until you get rid off the oversteering.
In some cars this method doesn't work, and you'll find that what's best is min/min or even max/max (very rare but there are some cases), as always, trial-error method is key.
Keep this in mind as orientation:
Max Front / Min Rear (Max Oversteering)
Min Front / Max Rear (Max Understeering)
Min Front / Min Rear (Better Grip)
Max Front / Max Rear (Worse Grip)
Link for premium members
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=6612562#post6612562
Thanks to him .
><(((((°>°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
EDIT: LSD and RIDE HEIGHT are the most responsive and important settings, the rest come after this.
👍
👍 i like the sofa
