Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'The Rumble Strip' started by Calibretto, Nov 26, 2005.
Michael88 long time no see, how've you been? What are you planning on hunting with that much energy?
I aspire to one day achieve the resiliency of your boulder shoulders
Show us some stuff you shoot with that.
For anyone who is interested... Palmetto State Armory currently has a sale on Magpul Gen M2 PMAGs for $7.99 each when you use the code "PMAG".
Victory is finally mine!
Damn that is a nice setup, congrats Omnis
Small AR looks tiny in his man-arm.
I'm looking to buy a new firearm and it seems like there are a lot of stores online with better prices than I can find in store and are willing to ship to a FFL. Have you guys bought online and have thoughts? Any recommendations for specific places to buy or not buy from?
@Crash Only time I bought online was the Bushmaster MOE 308 from Buds. I had it shipped to local pawn shop & it went smooth with the exception of Bushmaster packing wrong kit with the gun. I had to contact Bushmaster to fix it, but I got to keep expensive picatinny risers for free, so I wasn't mad.
Most of the guns I own have been purchased online. Since you already know what gun you want, checkout "gun.deals" to see which online vendor offers the lowest price. This site is the Slickdeals equivalent for guns. Type in the name of the gun or the UPC number (my preferred method) in the search bar. From there you'll see a list of vendors and their prices for the gun you're interested in. Bear in mind that some vendors offer free shipping and some don't. Also, some vendors like Budsgunshop charge extra for using your debit/credit card versus electronic check or money order. What I have usually done to avoid. With Budsgunshop I've always used the electronic check route to avoid these fees. Something else to keep in mind is that vendors like Budsgunshop or Grabagun often times have a price match request option. Sometimes it works in your favor, sometimes it doesn't.
Before you submit your order contact a few FFL's to make sure that they'll be able to do the transfer for you and find out how much they charge. I say this because the FFL's I've used in the past run their business from their homes and could potentially be out of town when your gun arrives (happened to a friend of mine). Plus why spend $30 for a transfer when you spend $20 or less with a different FFL.
When you go to pickup your gun, don't sign anything until you've looked over your gun to make sure that your order is correct and without any defects. If something is wrong with the gun, have it sent back. This usually isn't a problem but it is better to be safe than sorry.
Edit: I forgot to mention that you should also check galleryofguns for your local prices. Last year I was in the market for a Ruger 10/22 and what I paid for the gun (brand new) plus tax was less than what I would have paid online (including FFL transfer fee).
I have a credit card with 5% cash back on sporting goods purchases. So that covers me for any credit card fees. Otherwise you just run the numbers and go with the cheapest route from a reputable source. Find a cheap transfer fee FFL that isn't a sleazy place and isn't a data theft target.
I've bought all my guns online except my first. The process is exactly the same as any other online shopping, except you ship it to the FFL and then sign a form when you go to pick it up. In Florida you either wait a week from time of purchase (so this includes shipping-- if it takes a week to ship you can bring it home when it arrives) or if you have a CCW you can bring home whatever you buy on the spot.
Here is a list of a few online vendors I've personally used. I'll edit my post if I can think of more later on.
The very first gun I ever purchased was from this vendor. In the past they've always had the best prices but lately, I've found better prices elsewhere. Be aware of their pricing, they have a "cash" price which is lower than using your Debit/Credit card. What I also use Budsgunshop for is to get the exact UPC number of the gun I am interested in purchasing. From there I'll enter that UPC number on Gun.Deals to see which vendor has the best price (shipping included).
I have never purchased a gun from them but I have purchased several Magpul PMAGs from them. Years ago when AR magazines were heavily price gouged, this vendor continued to sell them at a normal price.
Low cost of shipping and very competitive prices on guns, ammo and accessories.
I do not like their shipping cost, but they ship guns out very quickly.
Nothing really needs to be said about this vendor. This is the only vendor that I have seen a Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM brand new for $1199.99.
If you're in the market for an AK variant, you might want to start here before looking elsewhere.
A little slow at shipping firearms but they've got some amazing prices.
This is a local (to me) gun shop with several locations. Their prices are fair and for you guys that live out of state, you won't have to worry about paying sales tax like I do.
Believe it or not they actually sell guns as well. Several years ago when FBI began to transition from .40S&W to 9mm, I was able to pickup a brand new full-size Beretta PX4 Storm for $399.
Thanks guys, really appreciate the input and advice. I did find gun.deals and saw a listing of a bunch of different online prices, which is what prompted my original question. Galleryofguns was a good suggestion as well. I never knew that website existed and I was able to effectively price shop locally.
I'm going to give a local vendor a call to see how much they are selling what I'm looking for first, then figure out all in, if it'll be cheaper to buy online and transfer to a local FFL dealer. Hoping to pick something up soon!
You guys use slings on your ARs? I've researched it a time or two before, but it got pricey, or complicated due to so many options & parts out there, and I'd just give up.
Couple days ago, I received $50 rebate from case of ammo, so I decided to finally at least get the sling itself: Magpul MS1 Padded Sling
Later in the same evening, I decided on & ordered these things to mount the front-end of the slings to one of the picatinny rails:
I thought I'd use the clip & mount(in the pic) for the front, attach the rear directly to the stock, like this:
I'm now debating on the rear attachment point if I should a) Install QD in the collapsible stock or b) install a receiver end plate w/sling mount:
I'm leaning towards QD mount in the stock. Anyone in here have any opinions on AR sling system?
I have a 2 point sling. Don’t remember what it’s called because I bought it years ago. It has mash hooks. I chose the buffer tube type mount area and have one made by Magpul. I also don’t remember the name of it lol.
I was checking out the same one, right before running into Magpul UBR stock on the sling page of their website:
Hole in the stock can be used as a compartment. There are other styles of end plate sling attachments, but probably not compatible with the one you have. This stock is $200(), but I want one for either my AR15, or more ideally Bushmaster 308. I haven't pulled the trigger(no pun intended), because of the price tag.
I may have to stick with the loop built into the stock for now, until I make my decision on the UBR stock. $$$
a6m5 I think you'd be better off mounting it to the buttstock. Plus you won't have to worry about purchasing any additional parts.
His method makes sense to me. Is that how you have yours?
To be honest with you this is the setup I have ran on my AR15 for several years. At the time I wanted something that looked cool and was inexpensive. Plus I wasn't completely sold on the durability of QD mounts. As of lately I've had to put more thought into sling setups because of my AK47 variant. There isn't anything cool about getting hit in the nuts when your hands aren't on your rifle. I plan on purchasing a Magpul rail sling attachment like you did for my AR and my AK.
Cost of full sling kit surprises me. If it wasn’t for the rebate $50 gift card, I’d be somewhat hesitant spending nearly $100 for complete sling + attachments.
I really want to get one for my Thompson Center .22 rifle as well. I'm actually looking forward to this one:
It should be a lot cheaper this time around.
Don't get any slings that have metal hardware unless you like whacking yourself in the face or chipping a tooth. After buying 2 slings, I'd say just get something that's comfortable and sling the buttstock directly. Lightweight slings suck because they bunch up and it just kind of flops around. Now that I've messed with them, if I ever need another sling I'm gonna get something with a little mass so it's easier to throw the gun around, etc.
If Sig doesn't **** the bed again and this turns out to work reliably, I think I just found my designated CCW piece. Please, Sig, I want to believe...
a6m5 slings are definitely another of those things that you get what you pay for. For your Thompson I'd just get a Magpul RLS 2-point sling and call it good.
Omnis that P365XL has some really nice features. Will be interesting to see what the general consensus is once more people get their hands on this gun.
Looks like he goes isosceles stance over weaver. Personally I prefer weaver. What stance does everyone here use and why?
I prefer the Weaver stance, but over the last year or so I have been trying the modified isosceles stance. The reason why I have been trying this stance is for better target transistion while shooting at multiple paper and steel targets in the desert. For me a true isosceles stance is great for engaging multiple targets but does not give me the stability of a Weaver stance. This could possibly change with more practice but for the time being, I prefer the fighting stance of a striker.
Honestly, I never gave much thought to shooting stances & wasn't familiar with any of these stance names or styles.
I guess I shoot with the Weaver stance, only because it just felt natural. Interesting to hear about target transition. Never thought about such a scenario either. So much more to learn & practice!
Didn’t occur to me. Good point.
I ended up robbing this cheap Butler Creek sling from my Remington 870.
It's a perfect fit!
Isosceles or modified isosceles. It is more natural than the bladed Weaver. It feels similar to the triple threat basketball position.
You might check out the Stupid Simple slings from Little Creek. If I did not already have a Vickers, Magpul, and Sandstorm paracord, then I would probably have one.
I received the clip, RSA(rail mounted loop) & padded sling, so I experimented with them little bit today. SO MUCH TO LEARN.
My early impression on AR two-point sling setup is how important mounting points would be. Everybody's different size & length, maybe even the mechanics. I'm working on the best way to position the sling for myself. It is cool though how flexible those mounting points & length of the sling can be.
Watching couple of different sling videos( @Xavier2342 ), I'm now also more aware of stance, way to hold, or move the rifle with the sling. It's little different from what I'm used to.... plinking. I'm going to take my AR shooting at least once more before finalizing the permanent setup.
I'd need a review! What's different about them anyway? Just quality, price, or is it some unique design?
Hey guys I'm currently in the market for a rifle scope and was wondering if you guys can help me out. I plan on getting into long range shooting this Fall in hopes of eventually shooting out to 1,000 yards/914.4 meters. I have pretty much decided which scope I want to purchase. However, what I am unsure about is which reticle will suite my needs MOA or MRAD. I understand that 1 MOA is about 1.05" at 100 yards and at that very same distance, 1 MRAD is 3.6". The scope adjustments are 1/4 MOA or 1/10 MRAD at 100 yards. The Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 First Focal Plane (FFP) scope has a maximum elevation adjusment of 20 MRAD for the MRAD reticle and 70 MOA for their MOA reticle scope. I've read so many articles and spent so much time staring at this image I downloaded from one of the articles I read (link below). I am more familiar with MOA but would be willing to try something new. What has your experience been with MOA versus MRAD? Which reticle do you prefer and why? Any help will be gratefully appreciated. If it helps any, the rifle will be chambered in .308 Win or 7.62x51, 24" barrel (at the most) and a 20 MOA base.
Mostly just the price. They seem to be pretty similar to a Vickers or Magpul for consistently less price.