RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

Discussion in 'GT6 Tuning' started by Ridox2JZGTE, Dec 22, 2013.

  1. Pete05

    Pete05 Premium

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    You're a walking encyclopedia of information! Well done :) :tup:
    Standard gearbox of the 2CV in GT6 is only good for around 100km/h before it hits the mechanical rev limiter so, unless PD have created their own gear ratios I can see this creating problems with a 100% replica.
    I imagine the climb out of Eau Rouge up to Les Combes must be something like 25% of the overall laptime :lol:
     
  2. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    :lol: Slow can be fun on a endurance race, where the drama is at the pits and getting sleepy at night :D

    I have updated/posted the Paul Cain BMW 3002 TTii, the replica also posted at Clueless garage :p Enjoy guys, will update the Focus ST 2013 ( very nice to drive, I tried my best to simulate real car handling based on reviews and tech docs ) and Yaris RS Turbo TRD later.

     
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  3. TurnLeft

    TurnLeft

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    :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
     
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  4. Pete05

    Pete05 Premium

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    So I'm guessing you're pretty happy with this info :p
     
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  5. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    The Focus ST 2013 has been posted/updated. Try to beat the Randy Pobst record at Laguna Seca on CM tires :p

     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2014
  6. PatrisS136

    PatrisS136

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    Good job,tested this car against GT6 "stock" ST and it's 0,8s faster than it on SSR5 Clubman and 6 seconds on Sierra second sector .

    Now I'm waiting for your BTCC 8 tune
     
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  7. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    Toyota YARIS RS Turbo '02 TRD Street Pack 450PP

    Special Build Yaris RS Turbo tuned with TRD S Pack 450PP

    Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


    [​IMG]


    CAR : Toyota Yaris RS Turbo (J) '02
    Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


    Specs
    Horsepower: 231 HP at 6000 RPM
    Torque : 207.8 ft-lb at 5800 RPM
    Power Limiter at : 99%
    Weight: 910 kg
    Ballast : 14 kg
    Ballast Position : -50
    Weight Distribution : 61 / 39 as the real car spec, close to 62/38
    Performance Points: 450



    GT AUTO
    NO Oil change
    Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
    Wheels : Stock or +1 Inch Up BOYD Coddington Wheels LEGACY F-09 in Bronze
    Car Paint :Red


    Tuning Parts Installed :
    Engine Tuning Stage 2
    Sports Computer
    Racing Exhaust
    Catalytic Converter Sports
    High RPM Range Turbo Kit
    Fully Customizable Suspension
    Adjustable LSD
    Twin Plate Clutch
    Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
    Weight Reduction Stage 1
    Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
    Window Weight Reduction



    Suspension - TRD S Package Coilover Fixed Damper Rate with Factory Alignment
    Front, Rear

    Ride Height: 100 100
    Spring Rate: 2.40 2.79
    Dampers (Compression): 4 2
    Dampers (Extension): 10 5
    Anti-Roll Bars: 3 6
    Camber Angle: 0.9 1.8 ( Front Camber 0.17+-0.75, Rear Camber 0.95+-0.75 )
    Toe Angle: 0.07 -0.05 ( Toe In Front : 0.15+-0.22, Toe In Rear : 0.28+-0.33 )



    LSD - 1 Way TRD Helical LSD

    Initial Torque : 17
    Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
    Braking Sensitivity: 5


    Brake Balance:
    7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

    Recommended setting for DS3 user :

    Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

    Notes :

    The Yaris RS Turbo in this build is a moderate modified setup at 450PP, utilizing TRD parts.
    Weight distribution at 61/39 with some weight saving employed.

    Suspension is based on TRD Street Pack Coilover with Fixed Rate Damper, the spring rate are quite soft but gives good natural balance, with stiffer roll bar to reduce body roll under extreme load.

    LSD is based on TRD 1 Way Helical LSD, this ensure good stability and traction even at tight turns.

    Gearing remains stock as I felt for the power and speed, the gear ratio spread is quite good with decent top speed. The Yaris RS Turbo TRD is best suited to low to medium speed track.

    I tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Red Bull Ring Short, Nurburgring GP/D and Autumn Ring. At Tsukuba, with CS tire, the 450 PP Yaris RS Turbo can easily lap in 1:06s and 1:31s at Autumn Ring.



    UPDATE : Fixed toe values :)

     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
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  8. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    I will post the other 3 Focus ST replica on my next play ( 2014 MY - same as 2013 :lol:, Fortune Auto tuned Focus ST and the BTCC GTP League Tuned Focus used by one of the team )

    If time permits, I will also posts SP Engineering Gallardo SL LP570-4, H&R Audi R8 GT, a GT4 car or Ferrari 512BB Real World Setup Replica ( this 512BB is for experienced driver, also good for MR driver training )
     
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  9. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    I have updated/posted both Yaris RS Turbo 400PP and 450PP, both are agile around corners :p



    The Ferrari 512BB is so much fun to drive :p I love the cockpit sound even with stock exhaust ... missed the old days in GT5, when I built 600+HP Twin Turbo 512BB, whoossh !!! :lol:

    Autumn Ring_10.jpg
    Autumn Ring_8.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
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  10. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    I have revisited the Bee R R32 GTR replica, some fixes ( weight distribution - now more front heavy and realistic :mischievous: ) and test run was completed. Give this one some laps and smile :cool:

    Tested at Grand Valley Speedway as requested by a friend on SS tire ( he wanted to win a bet :sly: ), managed 2:04s on 1st lap on cold tires and yellow oil ( power at reduced 387HP and big fat 1500kg :eek: ) Some slow cornering included - going wide at 1st turn and at the tunnel :lol: A good lap would be in low 2:03s or high 2:02s :bowdown: Nice pace for a street spec BEE R replica :D SS tire = hard slick, the chassis felt a bit soft for the immense grip from the tire.
     
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  11. ALB123

    ALB123

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    Oooh! If my vote counts for anything, and I know that it doesn't, I say post the Ferrari 512BB before the Lambo, if you don't have time to do both. I've been driving it bone stock lately and would love to see what your interpretation of the 512BB is. Plus, we did just get the regular Gallardo Superleggera recently. I don't want to buy another Gallardo. LOL!
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
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  12. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    The Ferrari 512BB is scary :sly:, I think you will be if you know what tire it came with to replicate real life factory tire grip level :p. It was tested at Streets of Willow and able to post decent lap time. The 512BB is as close as I can get to real car spec ( stock ), from weight ( without fuel Euro Spec ) - there's alternative dry weight without any fluids, distribution, spring rate ratio ( real car is too low :grumpy: ). Another Italian Supercar replica was built as companion, the Countach LP400, same recipe :lol:
     
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  13. sayba2th

    sayba2th

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    Nicely tuned R, took me a lap or 2 to get the feel but it has nice steering characteristics and handles beautifully. Still not quite as quick as Randy.......yet! I have posted 139.8xx thus far. Had a few hundreds up before I turned off my dying PS3 but blew it on the last corner with poor entry. Anyway more time to throw at it tomorrow.
     
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  14. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    139.8xx, :eek: over ten seconds faster than Randy :sly: :lol: I know, it should be 1:49.8xx right, that's only half a second from 1:49.3 :D

    For the 2014 Focus ST, it's the same car as 2013, minus some interior updates / cosmetic changes :p, but I will be posting it with another real life vs GT6 lap time, same driver - Randy Pobst, this time he drove it at another American track :p
     
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  15. GRAN007

    GRAN007

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    honda cr-z@'10 drive train needs work
     
  16. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    Could you elaborate ? Do you mean LSD ? The 450PP has low LSD setup 14/20/5. I have posted a 400PP version with alternate suspension and LSD, not sure if this is better for you :

     
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  17. GRAN007

    GRAN007

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    well 33/33/11 on 450 try it on all ff lsd
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
  18. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    That's not the value that I posted :) The initial torque at 33 is too high, the amount of break away torque that high will mean that the LSD will stays locked more than necessary for an FF with such state of tune. Lowering the LSD initial will help reducing understeer, a good range is between 10 to 25. Going below 10 will mean closer to open differential, and less traction + response when accelerating.
     
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  19. GRAN007

    GRAN007

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    check out lsd rear end
     
  20. GTvsForza

    GTvsForza Premium

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    Is the Shelby 1000 still in the works or is it impossible?
     
  21. GRAN007

    GRAN007

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    fr & 4wd 33/33/33 lsd
     
  22. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    I made a base line setup, too much wheel spin on 1st to 3rd on CS tire :lol:, but still can be driven well, with some care on the go pedal. I read review about the car, and when no TCS used, it will spin the rear wheels on 3rd even when going over 60mph :eek: I have found infos on the suspension :D Torque figure will be too high, but it will be fine.

    I may post the Shelby Super Snake after I posted some other cars first.

    Could you be more specific ? CRZ 450PP only has optional LSD acceleration at 33 - as in notes and bolded under LSD section, only for higher grip tire - sports tire and have good throttle control.
    FR and 4WD LSD 33/33/33 ? Which tune is this from ?
     
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  23. GTvsForza

    GTvsForza Premium

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    Sounds like a drag car. I leik!
     
  24. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    There are many different power and weight figure for the Ferrari 512BB :/, the GT6 version is the carb engine, so apparently the early models '76 has 344PS or 340HP, while Ferrari officially stated 380PS in the beginning then changed it to 360PS / 355HP. I will include both power figure. While for weight, I am going to use weight without fuel, a good source leads ( scale value ) to 1460kg value, while another report for Euro 512BB has 1430kg, the lowest dry weight without any fluids is 1400kg from very early model, variances possibly to other fluids, interior options like A/C and audio as well heavier seats. Weight distribution without fuel is the same on all version ( US and Euro ). US DOT in the early 80's approved cars were heavier by about 100lb or more - at about 3500lbs curb weight ( with fuel ). Looks like Wikipedia got them all wrong :lol:

    I think I will include 3 weight figure and 2 power figure, don't know how should I post it in one replica post :lol: I have a test run done on 355HP/1460kg, drives quite nice, but didn't put the correct clutch :lol:
     
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  25. ColinH96

    ColinH96

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    Did you ever do a Corvette Z06.R GT3 Replica, I cant seem to find it.
     
  26. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    I may have made one, can't remember, mmm, I did made Ferrari F430 GT3 though, it was a few months ago. I will check my garage next time. I do have C7R, it's listed under bonus tunes.
     
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  27. ALB123

    ALB123

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    I've been meaning to ask someone, for quite some time now, just what are the actual differences in GT6 between the Two-Plate Clutch and the Three-Plate Clutch. I've read the descriptions that GT6 provides and off the top of my head I want to say that the triple-plate clutch mentions that it might lose rev's on hills, yet 99% of tunes say to use the triple-plate clutch. Now, I can't imagine that someone's lap times are going to be drastically different if the only difference between a tuned car like a Ferrari 458 is the clutch (dual vs. triple).

    So, what is your opinion, Ridox, on the differences between the types of clutches in GT6 and what would your rule of thumb be in choosing which one to use?
     
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  28. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    Normal Clutch vs Twin Plate, the main difference that is easily felt is shift time / response, on some cars with low HP / displacement and/or high compression + often NA, are quite sluggish on shift up with normal single plate clutch when stock. This is very noticeable on 1st to 2nd gear shift. 2nd to 3rd and onwards usually has less hesitation. Twin plate offers quicker shift time and slightly higher acceleration with lighter flywheel, in GT6 we do not have separate flywheel part like in previous GT. Now twin plate and triple plate clutch also includes lighter flywheel in one package.

    The triple plate offers the quicker shift time / response, but on lower torque engine, this also might cause the rev/RPM easier to drop when going up on a hill / slope. I believe the difference is very small between twin and triple plate. I usually pick one based on what will the real life car would have, not really often that a car will have triple plate IRL.

    You can do simple test at Red Bull Ring, use stock AWD car with low power/torque, Mitsubishi GTO SR '96 ( NA ), put on AT transmission, stop at exit of the last corner of the track, use the left rumble strip as reference for start line. Fit grippy tire like SS or RH for less variation in slip on launch and 1st gear to 2nd gear transition. Use stock clutch and make a note of the trap speed at start/finish line and braking point speed of the 1st left turn or simply the highest speed before you hit the wall going off track :lol:. Try twin and triple plate clutch.

    GT6 may have cars with incorrect stock clutch type, Ferrari 512BB is one example :)
     
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  29. ALB123

    ALB123

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    Thank you, @Ridox2JZGTE! I knew you would provide an informative answer. You truly are a teacher of Gran Turismo tuning. (Now would be an awesome time for a gong to be rung hehe). Seriously...Thanks! I've been wondering for quite some time. In your professional opinion, what do you make of the comments that are written in the in-game description of the clutches? Particularly, where it mentions the Triple Plate Clutch might lose revs in uphill sections.

    Like I stated in my original question to you, I see that in the vast majority of tunes posted by respected tuners Triple Plate clutch is selected and it is the more expensive option. This is a perfect example of what I think Gran Turismo needs to change about "tuning" in future games. If you're going to offer us two choices of a clutch they should each have pro's & con's. If they're 99.9% similar in overall performance but one is 1,000 credits more than the other -- 99.9% of the time people are going to choose the "better" clutch because 1,000 credits is a drop in the bucket when most of us have tens of millions of credits.

    If the clutches each have some differences in pro's & con's you'll get more true customization. Are you racing on a track with lots of gear changes? Use clutch A because it provides quicker shift times, but be prepared for more slippage if there are uphill sections and maybe it can wear out in longer races or something. Whereas clutch B might not provide as quick of shift times, but you get no slippage and its more durable. I don't know if those are completely accurate possibilities from a clutch, but you get my point. There has got to be something that can be characteristically different between types of clutches that make each time ideal for certain situations.

    That brings me to another overall problem I have with tuning in Gran Turismo. Parts should break down. Especially based on how much you beat on your cars. When I watch Top Driver replays during Seasonal Events I often see very unrealistic pounding on cars, as in the engine spends a significant period of time in the red line. Drivers are downshifting at such speed and bouncing off rev limiters (that don't even exist on many of the cars in the game) and should be blowing engines over time based on how they're being driven. Clutches should have to be replaced. It would be very easy to add a percentage meter to see how much life is left in the clutch and performance should drop a little bit when engines/clutches/tires/etc aren't at peak strength. It's so funny that you buy a set of tires and they last forever (or at least your supply does on the rare chance you get a race where you have to change them).

    What are your thoughts and ideas on how Gran Turismo could change to make tuning more fun/realistic/challenging in the future? Surely, you must have many thoughts on this subject. I would love to hear them.
     
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  30. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    :p Not really an expert GT tuner, at least from my tuning shootout result will say, there are a few who deserved that name here simply because of rep and being a tuner since GT5 :lol: I prefer to make realistic cars, even if it means harder to drive and unpopular. It seems that easy to drive car ( most likely unrealistic from tune and handling perspective ) is the the only way to be a "top" tuner. FF,FR, AWD, MR and RR are tuned to drive as close as possible to each other, less understeer, less oversteer, running low value LSD - close to open diff. It's a shame that people who drive in GT choose to be farther away from realistic experience and drive cars that do not handle like it should anymore in the chase of lap time. The currently running Ford FITT event is a good example, the Focus ST at London Reverse, I doubt any of the car entered will drive like an FF would :( I'm also taking a break from FITT events, they don't offer much variety of feedback due to the low number of testers ( same old :lol: )

    For your question, the in game description is not really accurate, some of it should be for racing flywheel. PD have combined together flywheel and clutch as a pair. Losing speed on uphill is realistic, on a lower powered cars with low torque spread ( peak at mid or high rpm only ), installing a very light flywheel will have some negative effect. The throttle response will be much better as the engine will have much easier time to rev ( less weight to rotate ), as well as shift time/response ( engine rev drops quicker when shifting - off throttle, either shift up or down/heel toe), but when going on steep elevation and on heavier cars, there will be some loss in speed. GT6 sometimes do not give enough difference in speed on certain situation ( power / weight / road condition ) Have you tried stock/twin/triple clutch on stock FF like Honda Civic at Spa ? You should notice it at the up hill after Eau Rouge, the Civic has peaky torque curve, running high gear and too light of a flywheel up hill is not good :D

    In real life, very light flywheel is not always the answer for any situation, too light will result bog down on launch when used on smaller engine ( less torque ) with sticky tires. Flywheel directly related to engine inertia, so if the car also has tall gearing and considerable weight, running too light will be bad - less inertia. GT6 do not differentiate how light a flywheel is ( at least not shown on the tune page ) ... maybe those who have clutch + wheel can feel the effect easier when going off the line and shifting gears.

    IRL, ultra light flywheel requires extra care / delicate operation of the clutch when launching, the effects it at it's best on lower gears where the inertia is higher. On higher gears, the benefits start to lessened and the cons started to appear when there are steep hills. Engine revs also drop much quicker, this requires extra care on the driver when part or off throttle on shifting down or up when going up on a hill. Up hill starts also will be tricky to avoid stalls :lol:

    For engine + driveline wear and tear + damage, I have also been wanting this simulated in GT, no need to simulate the expenses to fix them, simply restore the car when exiting the track for wear, and maybe 500 credits for engine rebuild :p You will have the burnt out clutch, crunching / broken gears, overheated engine, tire blown out, broken suspension, when on track if driving like a madman, but once you exit, the car is as good as new again, except if it has substantial engine damage. This will be great to pair with the added 1.12 external pod meters ( water, oil temp, volts etc ) They will have some purpose other than cosmetic.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2014
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