- 65
- England
thank you for taking the time to post this.@Gr8_Lakes and all potentially struggling with this in the past, present or future.
I probably spent 5+ hours on trial and error so I wanted to share. Also so I can get some closure and move on
Issue: the conical mod for the T3PA brake pedal can't work properly in GT Sport.
The problem comes from the fact that the game recalibrates every time a new highest input has been detected. Therefore, with the conical mod on, every time you brake a little bit harder, you always have to brake that hard going forward to get max input. And so on and so forth. In other words it can't be used.
Here's how pedal inputs work:
1. Start of input (0%)
2. End of input (100%)
3. Dead-zones: areas where inputs are not yet registered (start) or not registered anymore (end)
(There's also a fourth setting which is input curve. Typically throttle and clutch should have most of the input happen at the beginning of travel, and brakes at the end. Games like Project Cars allows tuning of this, GT Sport doesn't. In my opinion the way the input curve works in GT Sport is not ideal, but that's another topic entirely. I just figured I'd mention it to be EXHAUSTIVE)
What I did
1. I drilled a hole below the mod to install a dead stop, as others here have done.
Unfortunately, the game needs a certain amount of input to "accept" a 100% value. Meaning, if the physical pedal only travels 25%, the game won't consider this to be 100%. You have to move the pedal about 50% at least for that to happen. Still, it's better than the 100% stock physical travel which is way too long.
Sadly, with the conical mod on, I can't reach that distance consistently. Therefore, I will not use the mod going forward, as I can't doubt the max input all the time. I want to know that when I brake hard, I get 100% power 100% of the time.
2. HOWEVER, I managed to reduce the physical travel needed to reach 100%.
With stock setup, since T3PA is with potentiometers, I had tons of issues with "misreadings". Basically even with the bolt dead stop, the pedal moves a tiny little bit from side to side, and that changes the input.
What I did to solve that is open the pedal box, and turn the potentiometer a couple of notches so that past 50% of physical travel, there is no more change reported. Basically the potentiometer reports 100% whether you physically are at 50% or a 100%.
I then set the dead stop so it's ever so slightly past that area (to avoid end dead-zone), and VOILA.
I could spend more time trying to make another conical mod to simulate a load cell. But load cells exist for a reason, and after all that fiddling around I actually realize that I don't like having to apply a lot of pressure on the brake pedal. Since I don't have a proper racing cockpit, it creates other issues with furniture moving around and stuff anyway.
So all is now good in the world. I have a brake pedal that has no dead-zones, that works 100% consistently, and with about half the travel from stock.
I'll conclude by mentioning what would solve all of these issues:
Including a proper calibration tool in the game. One that allows us to:
1. Set a value for max input anywhere we want in the physical travel
2. Allow dead-zone settings, especially end dead-zone, so we don't have misreadings at the end of the travel zone.
Icing on the cake would be to include curve setup. One thing for sure, and no offense, but if Project Cars has it, I think GT can too. I understand and complete adhere to PD's vision of having a great physics model in a super accessible package, but I consider calibration an absolute must.
I may give this a try.
I had no issues until I had to unplug and move it out of the way.
But now I just cannot get the brake to go to 100 %.
). I have them and they're far better than my previous TM sets, both of which I'd upgraded with aftermarket load cells. Having the memory is a definite plus, especially for GT Sport.
