Team Rolling Guy (Shutting Down)

  • Thread starter Thread starter jnktexark
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TwistyDrift
Good luck buying your civic :) have fun see ya on wed

Hope everything works out with the car i am going myself next week to buy a 2013 dodge caravan R/T yes i am a family man with kids but gotta drive in style lol j/k see ya wed feel better bro
 
Hope everything works out with the car i am going myself next week to buy a 2013 dodge caravan R/T yes i am a family man with kids but gotta drive in style lol j/k see ya wed feel better bro
Thanks everyone this is it
Photo-0011_zps8212fb47.jpg
 
I wish you were closer ot me man, I am scrapping one of my CRX's and it has a perfectly good B18B1 in it.....I kept my JASMA Mugen header though :sly:
 
Do my eyes deceive me or is that a DRIFT sticker on the fender?
 
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Do my eyes deceive me or is that a DRIFT sticker on the fender?

Yeah I don't know what the hell he was thinking. FF don't drift and never will. I even feel like a dip**** when I see it. Plus the body sucks I need to put a new body kit and paint job on it so it looks decent. Plus I just found out that when I rev it up a belt seems to squeal + on startup for a second. And also when I shift the vehicle at high RPM it will squeal once I pull the clutch down. Sounds like the belt is either too loose/to tight. Analog this is your cup of tea what do you think the damn problem is?
 
Nice, bro, you planning to turn this into a JDM/Hellaflush car?

Honestly right now I am just trying to make sure the damn thing runs right and stops squealing the belt. Then once I get cash I will get the block sent out for cast iron sleeves then whatever i need to do to boost the fk out of it
 
Alternator belt is worn or just too loose. It should have about 1" or less when you press the middle of the longest part of the belt.

Also, just loosen it and pull it off to check for cracks and worn ribs.

They are like $12 from Autozone brand new, just make sure you keep the belts in order when you go to put them on. Have the parts guy write what it is for you so you don't get yourself mixed up since your kinda new to this.

Just dont over tighten them, it will put too much stress on the bearings and wear it out too fast.
 
Alternator belt is worn or just too loose. It should have about 1" or less when you press the middle of the longest part of the belt.

Also, just loosen it and pull it off to check for cracks and worn ribs.

They are like $12 from Autozone brand new, just make sure you keep the belts in order when you go to put them on. Have the parts guy write what it is for you so you don't get yourself mixed up since your kinda new to this.

Just dont over tighten them, it will put too much stress on the bearings and wear it out too fast.

I have no idea how to change the belts on this car. How much would it cost for a mech to do it? cause I am afraid I will fk something up :/ but it's annoying that it only squeals when its revved up pretty high and changing from 1st to second
 
does it happen in neutral too when you rev the car?

If it happens when you have the clutch engaged then you might have a worn disc or a glazed flywheel...or both, that would be a replacement kit all the way out.

The belt are pretty easy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M4lB8n6Vmk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbCN1BF5pV0

👍

It does it in neutral too. Everything with the clutch is new clutch master slave all that has already been replaced. It is the belt I hear squealing once I shift after 7KRPM. But yes if i rev it in neutral it squeals
 
It does it in neutral too. Everything with the clutch is new clutch master slave all that has already been replaced. It is the belt I hear squealing once I shift after 7KRPM. But yes if i rev it in neutral it squeals

OH and also they are all new belts so I don't know if that might be why and they just need to be settled in or just tensioned to tight or something?
 
one of them is either too loose or it is just thr wrong belt, that happens all the time.

Open the hood.

Grab the throttle plate with you hand and open it to listen where it is coming from.

Make sure you dont have anything loose or hanging down.

Each one has a tensioner and you just loosen the lock nut, and then tighten the belt and then re tighten the lock nut and your done.
 
one of them is either too loose or it is just thr wrong belt, that happens all the time.

Open the hood.

Grab the throttle plate with you hand and open it to listen where it is coming from.

Make sure you dont have anything loose or hanging down.

Each one has a tensioner and you just loosen the lock nut, and then tighten the belt and then re tighten the lock nut and your done.

I wish you had a cell cause you could walk me through it. I am better being in front of the car and being described the look of something rather than just words. I won't even be near the car again till this weekend or maybe Thursday. You are the only person that seems to know these Hondas like the back of your hand.
 
Also analog since I have a cel for not having a catalytic converter will the d16y8 stop vtec from engaging?
 
jnktexark
Also analog since I have a cel for not having a catalytic converter will the d16y8 stop vtec from engaging?

Even though the cel is on vtec should still engage unless the cel is also on for something wrong in the vtec system.

A word of advice though. If your in a city that does emissions you will not pass due to the cel and youll get a instant fail when they see no cat (unless you know someone) ;)
 
Even though the cel is on vtec should still engage unless the cel is also on for something wrong in the vtec system.

A word of advice though. If your in a city that does emissions you will not pass due to the cel and youll get a instant fail when they see no cat (unless you know someone) ;)

Thanks Ryzno lol but I live in the state of Colorado NO emission inspections here :)
 
Even though the cel is on vtec should still engage unless the cel is also on for something wrong in the vtec system.

A word of advice though. If your in a city that does emissions you will not pass due to the cel and youll get a instant fail when they see no cat (unless you know someone) ;)

That is not always the case. The ECU will put the system in limp mode if it is a failure and at that point it wont allow revs past 3500 RPM, thus "limp" mode so you can limp home.

VTEC is engaged by several perimeters:

1) Speed must be above 35mph
2) Throttle % must be above 40%
3) Eng Temp must be above 145degrees Fahrenheit.
4) Oil pressure must read above a certain PSI

The ECU takes into account these inputs and if they are not met then the electronic signal sent from the ECU to the VTEC solenoid is not sent therefore the oil pressure is not vented to push the pin through the rocker.

The variable to this is if you run even an inline piggy back tuner like a Feilds or Apexi VAFC or a stand alone computer where you can manually control the signal. In such cases you dont even need to have the solenoid connected to anything but the tuners depending on the unit.

Dont drive with the CEL on anyways unless you check it daily like I use to when I had some other things I was trying to work out for a tuner. It is there to give you a warning that something is wrong, if you drive with it on because of something that is not a big deal and then something big does happen you wont know until you have passed the point of no return.
 
This is the GT5 Drag Racing section. We have a Cars in General section here at GTPlanet; specifically, we've got a Members' Rides section too. Please take the discussion on over there, thanks :)
 
This is the GT5 Drag Racing section. We have a Cars in General section here at GTPlanet; specifically, we've got a Members' Rides section too. Please take the discussion on over there, thanks :)

But this is the team talking to one another what is wrong with that? It's certainly not hurting anyone. That's just being honest and polite so hopefully you won't kill my thread cause my team is helping each other out.
 
That is not always the case. The ECU will put the system in limp mode if it is a failure and at that point it wont allow revs past 3500 RPM, thus "limp" mode so you can limp home.

VTEC is engaged by several perimeters:

1) Speed must be above 35mph
2) Throttle % must be above 40%
3) Eng Temp must be above 145degrees Fahrenheit.
4) Oil pressure must read above a certain PSI

The ECU takes into account these inputs and if they are not met then the electronic signal sent from the ECU to the VTEC solenoid is not sent therefore the oil pressure is not vented to push the pin through the rocker.

The variable to this is if you run even an inline piggy back tuner like a Feilds or Apexi VAFC or a stand alone computer where you can manually control the signal. In such cases you dont even need to have the solenoid connected to anything but the tuners depending on the unit.

Dont drive with the CEL on anyways unless you check it daily like I use to when I had some other things I was trying to work out for a tuner. It is there to give you a warning that something is wrong, if you drive with it on because of something that is not a big deal and then something big does happen you wont know until you have passed the point of no return.

So I guess since I can rev past 7000RPM that is a good thing right lol?
 
Hey Disney you should sign up on that team vs team battles, should be fin :)

I would like to do that just have to know a good time for the team to be on. I have been busy lately job searching and getting this car legal to drive so it has been hard.
 
I would like to do that just have to know a good time for the team to be on. I have been busy lately job searching and getting this car legal to drive so it has been hard.

Okay, sweet I'm mostly on weekends and sometimes weekdays. Good luck with the job and the car.
 

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