The Human Comedy Tune And Strategy Collection
- Thread starter syntex123
- 202 comments
- 169,649 views
- 225
- Kent, England
- TickleMyNugget
Does anyone have an up to date e-type tune for Alsace 450pp?
- 191
- USA
- alx42
I can make one if you're still in the need for it. I bought this car months ago, and haven't even driven it.
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- 16
- United States
This is my tune for Deep Forest. Not pretty, but it is fast.
Post in thread 'The Human Comedy - Guide for all races' https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-human-comedy-guide-for-all-races.407711/post-13815749
Post in thread 'The Human Comedy - Guide for all races' https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-human-comedy-guide-for-all-races.407711/post-13815749
- 101
- New Jersey, Mid-World
I'm frustrated, the Alsace race is killing me. I use the Alpine A220, 156 HP to keep it under 450 PP. I have to pit twice for fuel, finish 18th. I could save more fuel but I'd be in the same place just going slower. Anyway, what is the HP you need to at least get 15th here so I can move on? Any current tunes of any car needed and appreciated thanks! BTW I use manual trans and TC 1 for this race. Usually I'm on TC 0 but these cars are super slidy. Help me 
- 1,513
- Germany
Taking it out of context: depends on your car, you can get 1st with different cars with around 170hp. This race is giving you all the options to do almost whatever you wantwhat is the HP you need to at least get 15th here so I can move on?
Though I havent done any human comedy event since the new tyre modell.
- 101
- New Jersey, Mid-World
That's the frustrating part. Too many cars. Spending money and time on a tune to find out after another 60 minutes racing that it's not even good enough to be 15th again. And somehow people say they finished first with the same car. Well I guess I'll just try to use the time trial track until I find a car that's faster. The Alpine race car is not even close, at least for me.Taking it out of context: depends on your car, you can get 1st with different cars with around 170hp. This race is giving you all the options to do almost whatever you want
Though I havent done any human comedy event since the new tyre modell.
- 404
- Detroit
- Razgriz2118
Human Comedy Tsukuba Roadster TC race
tl;dr -
Full detail:
Saw pretty much all guides for this race were using pre-ver. 1.20 physics/tire wear, and I got different weather than what I've seen in the guides, so I figured I'd contribute to help anyone else out who may want guidance.
So, I completely messed up my tire changes and fuel stops, spun myself out twice, almost ran out of fuel, but still won with 1.6s to 2nd, thanks to the incompetence of the AI.
Tune:
The tune is shown in the screenshots below. Suspension is stock, the transmission is taken from @shaunm80 's tune, the LSD is taken from @alx42 , and I have the Custom Wing with downforce set to minimum (200). I also had some non-removable engine upgrades from before on, so I had to lower the power more than normal.
I used Racing Mediums for the dry tires and they lasted around 23 laps before I decided to pit. Someone with better tire management can probably push that to 25.
I ran with Fuel Map on 5 or 6 and shifted at around 25%-50% of the RPM bar to try to stretch fuel out as much as possible (it wasn't worth it in the end) and that would give me 24 laps of fuel.
Even in FM5 and shortshifting, I could comfortably lap in the 60s-61s range and even get into the mid/high 59s range with this setup.
Race:
I started on RM. The race started out dry, and clouds didn't appear in the sky until Lap 8, and they didn't show up on the Weather Radar at the 50mi range until around Lap 13. I was fuel saving holding out to see if it would rain at around Lap 20 or 23 like other guides said, but my tires were about to fall off the cliff by Lap 23 so I went in for another set of RM and filled my fuel tank. The AI don't fuel save and run out of fuel at around Lap 14 or Lap 15, regardless of their tire choice.
Of course, it started raining when I left the puts, and the moisture gauge was 1/3rd full by the end of Lap 26. I tried to stay out but I ended up spinning twice due to the lack of grip on Lap 27 due to the increasing moisture, and lost around 30s of time due to that. I pit for Inters at the end of Lap 27. But, the moisture gauge was back down to 1/3rd by Lap 29 and I pit for RMs at the end of Lap 31 because the track kept drying and the clouds were gone. If this is the weather you have, I'd recommend either tip-toeing around the track during the IM phase, or pit on Lap 25 for IM. The AI pits for IM around Lap 25 and Lap 26.
It started raining again on Lap 34, and this was heavy rain. The moisture gauge was at 1/3rd by Lap 36, and the AI began pitting for either Wets or Inters. I pit on Lap 36 for full Wets, and this is the tire you need, because the moisture gauge is up to 2/3rds by Lap 38 and even on the racing line, it goes into hydroplaning range by Lap 39. The rain doesn't stop until Lap 43, and the moisture level drops to 1/3rd by Lap 46. STAY ON THE WETS TO THE END.
The AI begins pitting very stupidly at the end of the race because they're matching the moisture gauge. I was 31s behind 1st place and 29s behind 2nd place going into the final few laps. 2nd place pits on Lap 51 for only fuel to last to the end, bringing me only 10s away from them. The next lap, they pit for IM only, which lets me pass them with a 10s margin. 1st place also pits on Lap 52 only for fuel to last to the end, which put me only around 13s behind them. On Lap 53, 2nd place pits for RH only, making them not a threat anymore. On Lap 53, 1st place pits for only IM, which then lets me have a 10s lead of the race with only 2 Laps to go. I'm running on fumes at this point and cross the finish line 1st with only a 1.6s gap.
Tires at the end of the AI's stints on Lap 14:
tl;dr -
- Done in ver. 1.21, difficulty still bugged so "Hard" AI difficulty is actually easiest
- Rain starts Lap 23, wet enough for Inters Lap 27, dries back up enough for slicks Lap 29 - either stay out and be careful, or pit by Lap 25 for Inters and back to slicks by Lap 31
- 2nd rain starts Lap 36, wet enough for Wets Lap 37, doesn't dry enough for slicks until Lap 47 - pit on Lap 36 for Wets and stay out until the end
- Fuel save smartly - AI runs out of fuel after 14-15 laps if weather doesn't change.
Full detail:
Saw pretty much all guides for this race were using pre-ver. 1.20 physics/tire wear, and I got different weather than what I've seen in the guides, so I figured I'd contribute to help anyone else out who may want guidance.
So, I completely messed up my tire changes and fuel stops, spun myself out twice, almost ran out of fuel, but still won with 1.6s to 2nd, thanks to the incompetence of the AI.
Tune:
The tune is shown in the screenshots below. Suspension is stock, the transmission is taken from @shaunm80 's tune, the LSD is taken from @alx42 , and I have the Custom Wing with downforce set to minimum (200). I also had some non-removable engine upgrades from before on, so I had to lower the power more than normal.
I used Racing Mediums for the dry tires and they lasted around 23 laps before I decided to pit. Someone with better tire management can probably push that to 25.
I ran with Fuel Map on 5 or 6 and shifted at around 25%-50% of the RPM bar to try to stretch fuel out as much as possible (it wasn't worth it in the end) and that would give me 24 laps of fuel.
Even in FM5 and shortshifting, I could comfortably lap in the 60s-61s range and even get into the mid/high 59s range with this setup.
Race:
I started on RM. The race started out dry, and clouds didn't appear in the sky until Lap 8, and they didn't show up on the Weather Radar at the 50mi range until around Lap 13. I was fuel saving holding out to see if it would rain at around Lap 20 or 23 like other guides said, but my tires were about to fall off the cliff by Lap 23 so I went in for another set of RM and filled my fuel tank. The AI don't fuel save and run out of fuel at around Lap 14 or Lap 15, regardless of their tire choice.
Of course, it started raining when I left the puts, and the moisture gauge was 1/3rd full by the end of Lap 26. I tried to stay out but I ended up spinning twice due to the lack of grip on Lap 27 due to the increasing moisture, and lost around 30s of time due to that. I pit for Inters at the end of Lap 27. But, the moisture gauge was back down to 1/3rd by Lap 29 and I pit for RMs at the end of Lap 31 because the track kept drying and the clouds were gone. If this is the weather you have, I'd recommend either tip-toeing around the track during the IM phase, or pit on Lap 25 for IM. The AI pits for IM around Lap 25 and Lap 26.
It started raining again on Lap 34, and this was heavy rain. The moisture gauge was at 1/3rd by Lap 36, and the AI began pitting for either Wets or Inters. I pit on Lap 36 for full Wets, and this is the tire you need, because the moisture gauge is up to 2/3rds by Lap 38 and even on the racing line, it goes into hydroplaning range by Lap 39. The rain doesn't stop until Lap 43, and the moisture level drops to 1/3rd by Lap 46. STAY ON THE WETS TO THE END.
The AI begins pitting very stupidly at the end of the race because they're matching the moisture gauge. I was 31s behind 1st place and 29s behind 2nd place going into the final few laps. 2nd place pits on Lap 51 for only fuel to last to the end, bringing me only 10s away from them. The next lap, they pit for IM only, which lets me pass them with a 10s margin. 1st place also pits on Lap 52 only for fuel to last to the end, which put me only around 13s behind them. On Lap 53, 2nd place pits for RH only, making them not a threat anymore. On Lap 53, 1st place pits for only IM, which then lets me have a 10s lead of the race with only 2 Laps to go. I'm running on fumes at this point and cross the finish line 1st with only a 1.6s gap.
Tires at the end of the AI's stints on Lap 14:
- 36
- United States
anyone know the best car for 1 hour maggiore human comedy
- 25
- Brazil
That is subjective, as in you'll get different answers based on people's opinion.
What I can tell is most people here simply used the car they felt more comfortable with, that is good on fuel and tires. That narrows down to a list of a few cars like the Mazda RX-Vision, the blue Mercedes AMG, BMW Z4, Subaru BRZ300 and one of the Aston Martin (DBR9 I think).
Personally, I won the race with the blue AMG, and hated how the Mazda is loose (for me, at least) on the rear.
- 404
- Detroit
- Razgriz2118
The Human Comedy - Alsace Pre-1979 460PP
tl;dr:
Full Detail
At the time, I couldn't find a 2J tune that still worked in ver. 1.21, I couldn't get the A220 to get below 460PP, the A110 tunes I found were extremely uncompetitive, and I didn't want to use the Ferrari that was suggested unless I absolutely had to, because I did want to try to use a car that I liked. So, I shelved this race, until I saw in this thread the suggestion to use the Fairlady Z432 '69, and wow, that car and the tune below made the race a cakewalk. I was able to complete 25 laps and lapped the entire field in the end.
Tune
I used @Trotskyite 's advice and used their transmission and aero settings, @praiano63 's suspension and LSD settings, and my own parts list. I didn't want to add any non-removable parts, and my parts list shown in the screenshots below actually put me right at 460pp without needing to add any ballast or take away any power. I had Brake Balance set to 2 during the race since the front tires wear out faster than the rear tires, but the tire wear is so low it doesn't matter what you set it to, set it to your personal preference. Make sure the car is wide-bodied, has wide tires, has wide-offset, and has aero components for the Downforce settings.
As of Sep. 13 2022, the Fairlady Z 432 '69 is available in the Legend's Dealership, and should be for another week or two, for 190,000 credits. So, this should be a good alternative to using the 2J if you don't win it from the other Missions or haven't bought it from Legends for the several million credits it costs.
Race Strategy
This is a simple 1-stop race for fuel only. The tires will last for the entire race, no matter how hard you beat on them. Depending on your pace and driving style, you'll need to use a leaner fuel map setting, short shift, and/or lift-and-coast to make sure your first tank can make it to the halfway mark. I had my fuel last for 35 minutes before I needed to pit. I refilled to a full tank just so I could burn more fuel towards the end. The fuel usage and lap times I noticed in my run was:
If you're lucky, the 911-swapped Sambabus will get caught up in traffic and be unable to lap freely. Even if it does break free though, it will stop every 7-8 laps for fuel, which came out to 3 pit stops in my race. That's a lot of time, so even if it gets too far ahead of you, you can make it up in the pits.
The 300SL was consistently 2nd place for me, but I was able to break away from it even on Fuel Map 4 + short-shifting. The 300SL pitted twice, on Lap 12 and Lap 22, so you'll have 1 pit stop less.
Otherwise, there's not much else to this race. This car felt like using a cheat code. Good luck, and have a good race!
tl;dr:
- Done in ver. 1.21 on Hard AI difficulty
- Car - Fairlady Z432 '69 tuned to @praiano63 's 500PP SH tune with some changes as suggested by @Trotskyite and my own changes
- 1 stop race - only fuel, no tire change required
Full Detail
At the time, I couldn't find a 2J tune that still worked in ver. 1.21, I couldn't get the A220 to get below 460PP, the A110 tunes I found were extremely uncompetitive, and I didn't want to use the Ferrari that was suggested unless I absolutely had to, because I did want to try to use a car that I liked. So, I shelved this race, until I saw in this thread the suggestion to use the Fairlady Z432 '69, and wow, that car and the tune below made the race a cakewalk. I was able to complete 25 laps and lapped the entire field in the end.
Tune
I used @Trotskyite 's advice and used their transmission and aero settings, @praiano63 's suspension and LSD settings, and my own parts list. I didn't want to add any non-removable parts, and my parts list shown in the screenshots below actually put me right at 460pp without needing to add any ballast or take away any power. I had Brake Balance set to 2 during the race since the front tires wear out faster than the rear tires, but the tire wear is so low it doesn't matter what you set it to, set it to your personal preference. Make sure the car is wide-bodied, has wide tires, has wide-offset, and has aero components for the Downforce settings.
As of Sep. 13 2022, the Fairlady Z 432 '69 is available in the Legend's Dealership, and should be for another week or two, for 190,000 credits. So, this should be a good alternative to using the 2J if you don't win it from the other Missions or haven't bought it from Legends for the several million credits it costs.
Race Strategy
This is a simple 1-stop race for fuel only. The tires will last for the entire race, no matter how hard you beat on them. Depending on your pace and driving style, you'll need to use a leaner fuel map setting, short shift, and/or lift-and-coast to make sure your first tank can make it to the halfway mark. I had my fuel last for 35 minutes before I needed to pit. I refilled to a full tank just so I could burn more fuel towards the end. The fuel usage and lap times I noticed in my run was:
- Fuel Map 4 + short shift + lift and coast:
- 5% - 7% of tank per lap
- Mid 2:28s on full tank, Low 2:28s - Mid 2:27s on low tank
- Fuel Map 4 + rev out:
- 7% - 8% of tank per lap
- Mid 2:27s on half-full tank
- Fuel Map 3 + rev out:
- 9% - 10% per lap
- Low 2:26s - Mid 2:25s on low tank
If you're lucky, the 911-swapped Sambabus will get caught up in traffic and be unable to lap freely. Even if it does break free though, it will stop every 7-8 laps for fuel, which came out to 3 pit stops in my race. That's a lot of time, so even if it gets too far ahead of you, you can make it up in the pits.
The 300SL was consistently 2nd place for me, but I was able to break away from it even on Fuel Map 4 + short-shifting. The 300SL pitted twice, on Lap 12 and Lap 22, so you'll have 1 pit stop less.
Otherwise, there's not much else to this race. This car felt like using a cheat code. Good luck, and have a good race!
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- 101
- New Jersey, Mid-World
Thanks for this. I'll try it since the car is cheap and trying to get the 2J by golding Sun Also Rises has a little roadblock called the drifting mission. And since I'm racing on easy it should be even easier! I wonder if anyone's actually tried to use an engine-swapped Samba Bus, just for fun.
edit: didn't work very well for me lol. Obviously I'm much slower. I'm not even trying to win, just be 15th for bronze.
edit: didn't work very well for me lol. Obviously I'm much slower. I'm not even trying to win, just be 15th for bronze.
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- 404
- Detroit
- Razgriz2118
What lap times were the AI running? I didn't test if this race has the difficulty bugged so "Easy" is actually "Impossible" or not. Also, something to note is that the 240Z needs to be wide-bodied, have wide-offset wheels, wide tire width, and have aero parts installed for the aero settings.
- 101
- New Jersey, Mid-World
The fastest lap was mid 2:20s or so, I was barely in the 2:30s. The A220 has been fastest for me but only around 2:33 as my fastest laps, still puts me 18th after having to pit twice. And running lower fuel mixes puts me too far behind for one pit stop to matter. It doesn't help that on the first laps the AI cars ram you like crazy, and once they knock me off or I make 1 or 2 mistakes I can't catch up. I did try on Hard and Easy and either way my car is way too slow.
- 404
- Detroit
- Razgriz2118
Hmm, yeah, I was lapping in the 2:27s-2:28s for most of the race, so I guess this setup doesn't suit you then, sorry to hear! And yeah, breaking away from the pack is important because of how bunched and murderous they get.
- 101
- New Jersey, Mid-World
Update: SUCCESS! I went back to the A220 and went all out the first stint, map 1, but short-shifting and coasting some. When I pitted I was top 10. Got fuel, no tires. Soon into the 2nd stint I went to map 3, then 4, 5, 6 when I was comfortably in the bronze range. Saved enough fuel to have 2.5 laps left on the last lap, finished 8th. Now I never have to do it again, haha!
Thanks Razgriz for your Tune and Strategy - Alsace has been finally WON
After a couple of aborted tries due to drive errors I finally won it today.
Beeing a not so good driver I managed regular times of 2:30:xxx
In the first lap I was on Fuel Map 1 in order to get rid of some "disturbing" competitors and went up to position 6, turned then on fuel map 4 until the pit-stop after 13 laps (about 32-33 minutes in the race).
After the pit-stop I went on fuel map 3 then, towards the end of the race went on fuel map 2
won the race with about 10 sec on the Samba Bus
Thanks again
After a couple of aborted tries due to drive errors I finally won it today.
Beeing a not so good driver I managed regular times of 2:30:xxx
In the first lap I was on Fuel Map 1 in order to get rid of some "disturbing" competitors and went up to position 6, turned then on fuel map 4 until the pit-stop after 13 laps (about 32-33 minutes in the race).
After the pit-stop I went on fuel map 3 then, towards the end of the race went on fuel map 2
won the race with about 10 sec on the Samba Bus
Thanks again
Engine Swap for Autopolis. 215HP 
- Only aero you need installed is the Rear Type A and Custom Wing.
- Set the fuel map to 6 and pit every 15 minutes for a fill-up and fresh tires (3-stop).
- Low transmission will limit your top speed, but is key to achieving this PP.
- Autopolis mid-speed turns are easily taken in 4th gear, and slow-speed turns in 3rd. You'll spend most of the time in 5th.
This is a fairly glitched 400pp with the v1.25 engine swap. Dominates Autopolis 1hr.
For the strategy, the only thing between you and victory is tire/tyre wear. Take it easy on the throttle until you're pointing at a straight, and watch out for a couple tricky spots like the uphill high speed turn. Less steering and more throttle control should help. If you've got a lead foot and can't help but torch your tires, you might as well run a leaner fuel (3) and pit 3 times for tires and fuel. You'll still win in 25 laps easily.
Some upgrades not used in this example will push you over 400pp, including all wheel upgrades I tried. Only stock wheels with or without wide offset worked for me. Also, engine balance tuning and racing crankshaft will push you over 400pp.
Credit JohnnySVDR for the suspension and diff settings.
For the strategy, the only thing between you and victory is tire/tyre wear. Take it easy on the throttle until you're pointing at a straight, and watch out for a couple tricky spots like the uphill high speed turn. Less steering and more throttle control should help. If you've got a lead foot and can't help but torch your tires, you might as well run a leaner fuel (3) and pit 3 times for tires and fuel. You'll still win in 25 laps easily.
Some upgrades not used in this example will push you over 400pp, including all wheel upgrades I tried. Only stock wheels with or without wide offset worked for me. Also, engine balance tuning and racing crankshaft will push you over 400pp.
Credit JohnnySVDR for the suspension and diff settings.
As for tuning I don´t understand what car part give you access to change wings? Is it baked into suspension or what upgrade let you adjust front and rear wing. I watched a guide for the cappuchino where he magically had managed to adjust rear downforce though that car don´t have any wings
- 1,513
- Germany
Installing a diffuser allows to change rear downforce, afaik.As for tuning I don´t understand what car part give you access to change wings? Is it baked into suspension or what upgrade let you adjust front and rear wing. I watched a guide for the cappuchino where he magically had managed to adjust rear downforce though that car don´t have any wings
- 25
- Brazil
That's not where you go for that type of tuning. Go back to the main screen, go on GT Auto, Car Customization and then install the Front, Side, Rear and Spoiler. You can change the wheels too if you want.
After installing these parts you go back to the car configuration screen and the downforce will be available for you to change it.
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- 264
- Brookfield, CT
- GTP_Diabolical/Diabolical_J
Good stuff man. I was really struggling on this one, tried the RSZ, the M6, the ZR1, wasn't having much luck. In hindsight perhaps I just needed to be patient, probably would've caught up easy with the AI's terrible pit strategies. However, when I switched to the RSR, right off the line I was passing the first 8-10 cars much faster than attempts with the other cars. I suck at fuel management, FM1 was only going to get my 9 laps on the first pass, so I dropped it to FM3 after like 5 laps so I could stretch it to 10. Having read that the heavy rain starts coming down on lap 19, I kept it at FM1 for the second pass. I stopped for Wets on lap 19 when it started coming down pretty heavy. By that point I already had a 45+ second lead due to some AI's trying to stretch their racing tires a bit longer and sliding all over the place. Quite a few of them would multiple stops within a few laps because they'd try to stay on racing tires or switch to IM's, then have to pit again to switch to Wets.
Good stuff man. I was really struggling on this one, tried the RSZ, the M6, the ZR1, wasn't having much luck. In hindsight perhaps I just needed to be patient, probably would've caught up easy with the AI's terrible pit strategies. However, when I switched to the RSR, right off the line I was passing the first 8-10 cars much faster than attempts with the other cars. I suck at fuel management, FM1 was only going to get my 9 laps on the first pass, so I dropped it to FM3 after like 5 laps so I could stretch it to 10. Having read that the heavy rain starts coming down on lap 19, I kept it at FM1 for the second pass. I stopped for Wets on lap 19 when it started coming down pretty heavy. By that point I already had a 45+ second lead due to some AI's trying to stretch their racing tires a bit longer and sliding all over the place. Quite a few of them would multiple stops within a few laps because they'd try to stay on racing tires or switch to IM's, then have to pit again to switch to Wets. I stayed on the Wets until there was like 13-14 minutes left so I had some room for error to finish the race without stopping for fuel again.
- 1,013
- Turin
- Falken-N7
- N7Falken
Unfortunately now with 1.27 this setup makes 479,34 PP so you need to lower the power to 91% with the ECU controller. It's still a winning car even this way, I came 2nd on my first attempt 7 seconds behind the Sambabus despite losing a lot of time in the early laps while trying to find the feeling with the car, and after having a Certified Vettel Moment about halfway through the race. So thanks! Will do this again and nail the victory next time.
- 35
- United Kingdom
Sorry @EmilThaudal - gonna quote you seven times and @mention you the same amount of times.
Anyone have more Red Bull Ring car strategies?
RED BULL RING
I've seen strategies for racing first 18/19 laps in one stint (before rain comes) on FM6 but I ended up 20 seconds too slow for Gold and this strategy might have worked back in April but unlikely now with updates unless particularly lucky with AI. I have just won by what was classified as a lap ahead.
So for what it is worth this is my strategy as of 1.27 ...
In summary :-
RS, FM1, Lap 1-10, Refuel to Max,
RS, FM1, Lap 11-19, Refuel to Max (I pitted on 18 but was probably premature for best result)
W, FM1, Lap 20-26, Refuel to Max (you may get away with 90% if you run to 36 laps but not worth risk)
RS, FM1, Lap 27-37 (had 11% fuel as end of 36 and could have waited for clock to run down, had 4% of fuel a lap later)
Detail/tips :-
Peugeot RCZ Gr.3 - make sure you own Wet and Racings Soft tyres. Put on Racing Soft and go to Red Bull Ring on Time Trial and make sure you can lap in the 1:28 - 1:29s with unrestircted car - mine was PP787.34 with 450/620 wing and High RPM Turbo - no idea how the game reduces your car's PP for the mission so just adding this for context. I used TC1, ABS and all other assist off.
For the mission, start off on RS, FM1 and aim for 1:31 - 1:32 pace. I pitted end of Lap 10 just a whisker under the 45mins remaining with left rear about 80% worn and I was 22 seconds behind leader with 5% fuel left.
Put on a new set of RS and fuelled to max, came out 32 secs behind leader. I came in at end of Lap 18, 12.5 seconds behind leader and 32mins left on clock, 26% fuel. I put on Full Wets and refilled and switched to TC5.
I come out 42 seconds behind leader and start practicing braking off the racing line but I notice that with 30mins left on clock, as I almost complete lap 19 the tyre meter is only just at the Inters level so I daresay I could have pitted and end of Lap 19 for a quicker strategy - I lost 12 seconds on that lap alone being over-cautious and being on wrong tyres.
By end of Lap 20 the tyre metre is into the Wets range and I am giving myself 50m more braking distance and being ultra careful around turns 4, 9 & 10 as these are super slippery. On Lap 21 I pass Beauvois for the Lead, he looks like he has stayed out on the wrong tyres and I am 18 seconds ahead at the end of that lap. This is the trickiest phase of the race - brake off the racing line if you can, don't be in a rush to visit the scenery, keep a cool head, easy on the throttle and brake and don't take risks in 4, 9 & 10 - keep away from kerbs. You should be able to keep the gap fairly steady. On Lap 25 a dry line starts to appear, try keeping to it and braking on racing line again, start decreasing braking distances to normal.
I came in end of Lap 26, 14 seconds ahead, 17 mins on clock, put on RS and fuelled to max. Came out 19 seconds behind leader.
No heroics, keep to racing line where it is dry, uber careful corners 4, 9 & 10 still, part from that flat out as per the first stint but keep off kerbs. On lap 31 I felt brave enough to go back to TC2, had made a few errors by this point and was 26 seconds back. Gallo was showing 1 second behind me but not in mirrors which was odd and nearest car behind me in 3rd was half the longest straight behind.
Lap 33 the Leader (Lopez) pits - he is showing as being on Wets with 32 Litres of fuel, he emerges 7 seconds ahead of me - at this point I thought race was lost as only 4 mins left, but I am catching him ... I get the gap down to 2 seconds by the end of Lap 34 but he pits again!! I notice he was still on Wets so he either didn't do anything in his previous pit or he put on new Wets, either way some bizarre choice. I notice on the replay, he then puts Inters on - there is no water on the track! So he is 20 seconds behind me now and on the wrong tyres. I am still uber careful corners 4, 9 & 10 - that's my key advice.
There was 8 seconds on the clock as I started Lap 37, Lopez was 21 seconds behind so I could have just waited on the line but I went for another lap.
That was my last Mission Golded, the most satisfying as I had my ass kicked yesterday and then read in loads of places that since the update this was impossible and everyone was losing by 20s with few mistakes. I practiced some more Time Trial, decided to do the 3 stop strategy, learnt where I was most vulnerable in the wet to losing time in the gravel and although I made a few small mistakes going off between 9 & 10 a couple of times, I only got 1 time penalty.
- 1,013
- Turin
- Falken-N7
- N7Falken
Finally managed to complete Alsace, can confirm that Razgriz's setup but with power limited to 91% using the ECU (unless Mangano with the 2000GT spins you into hell). Just shift about halfway through the rev indicator while staying on FM1 and you're good for a one stop strategy on lap 12.
And I'm very far from being a fast driver especially with the G29, so yeah definetly go for it if you're struggling.
And I'm very far from being a fast driver especially with the G29, so yeah definetly go for it if you're struggling.
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