I don't believe the vibration feature is supported outside of a few PC games - so it is a moot feature for the PS3 and XBox360 games.
Actually the ABS feature of the clubsport pedals is format independent. It is set up by you as the user not the game and works as a braking aid regardless of whatever you are playing.
Incidently there is also another source of vibration that is supported by Forza 3 on xbox 360 and potentially any other title on the format that is delivered via 2 motors in the steering wheel rim of the Turbo S/GT2 wheels (I am not sure if the GT3 v2 has these as it is not meant to be xbox360 compatible). support for these extra motors is a unique feature of the XID force feedback protocol that xbox360 supports but support for these motors is absent from HID which is used by every other platform.
Yes - I am aware of the "ABS" feature that "shales the wheel at a certain %age brake pedal travel", I use it even on the G25 pedals, but I have been told that other than on a PC, the Clubsport PEDAL when used with the PS3 and XBpx360 does not vibrate, only the steering wheel - Or are you saying you have the Clubsport Pedals and they do in fact vibrate in GT5 on the PS3?
I have felt no special XBox360/Forza3 unique vibrations in the rim, if fact I have been very dissapointed in the rubbish implimentaiotn of FFB in Forza3 in general.
RC45 to compared Force Feedback don't forget to put Force Feedback at 10 (= at the Maximum), wheel in "Simulation Mode" and to remove all helps (driving assist, abs, etc...).
It's very important because apparently on T500RS, Force Feedback option manage really speed rotation & feeling on the wheel (so 5 or 10 will change effects especially for the speed). Same for helps options.
Please try also all different roads: Asphalt, Snow and especially Rally (like on CES demo show)
I always drive in "Simulation" mode, no assists, ABS 1 and grip reduction set to Real.
I also chose to not test many race cars (other than the X1 just for the extreme nature of the car) and chose street cars with Comfort:Soft or Sports:Hard tyres.
If I choose Race:Soft then you can tell the "extreme grip" of the tyres hides the real feel of the driving a street car.
With FFB set to 10 the T500 is just stupid. The force is overwhelming and I would not say it helps with steering wheel rotation, it hinders it.
As a point of reference that I always fall back to when "testing" street cars in a game, is my C5 Z06 street/track car that depending on the tune and cam, makes between 630 and 660bhp (about 580 to 600rwhp) and when I have sticky street tyres on it - Goodyear SCF1's, Michelin Pilots Sports etc it will spin the tyres in a heart beat.
Full throttle in any gear on tarmac will break the tyres loose at peak torque - so I understand that mashing the gas and wrenching the wheel in anything except a race car with superslicks is a recipe for disaster and not the way to go fast.
So with this in mind I like to see how a powerful street car on street tyres feels in game and how fast the game and controller will let me go. I am skeptical about games or controllers that let me defy physics
RC, how much slower are you with the T500? Always a few tenths?
On the Nurgburgring in the McClaren F1, about 2 or 3 seconds over the lap.
I expect you just need to get used to the wheel but if more people say the can't match their G25/Fanatec lap times then it could put some people off.
Well, some people may want to just "be the fastest' and all the FFB support and large wheel diameter and chunkyness of the T500 might even get in their way - I mean if they buy the T500 and turn off the FFB then that would be a pity really.
Also a few pages back did you say the T500 is slower at returning to the centre than the Fanatec?
Yes it is. The GT2 I feel is falsley easy to return to center and makes you artifically faster.
On Tsukuba with a screaming Mazda RX7 in 2nd gear fighting through the hairpin bends full lock turning literally understeering your way around, the GT2 is fatser and smoother to unwind as you let th wheel slip through your fingers and then move on - the T500 is more mechanical and purposeful with its unwinding and the higher the FFB setting the "chunkier" and slower it feels.
As I say, the T500 wheel is a big hefty wheel with a violent motor attached, the GT2 is a svelt wheel that seems to accomplish the same thing with finesse - but at times felt too easy and simple to use.
Again, lightning lap times but not exactly what I am into - while I like to "go fast" I also want to feel I am going "as fast as I would in reality' which is why I like having an H-gate shifter for driving stick shift cars.
The engagment and complexity added by grabbing a gear, or trying to time a 5th to 2nd downshift while managing the revs and possibly switching from heal/toe to left foot braking IS what I want to be doing
I like the ACTIVITIES of driving a car fast, not just going fast
At least there is no fear of losing the thread by overtightening. Not sure how thick the metal piece there is but you need to remember that to make a durable thread the thickness should be around the same thickness that a nut is.
