Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals
- Thread starter Pennzoil23
- 640 comments
- 246,168 views
- 16
- England
First impressions are really good. I’ve definitely got some adjusting to do in the sense of moving to pressure vs travel on the brake pedal but it certainly ‘feels’ better than the T3PAs. I’ve kept the default springs in for now, added 3 washers on the pre-load and find reducing the brake force to around 55/60% in the cal software to have helped maintain some consistency. I’ve only played GT Sport so far but will see how they are with Assetto Corsa tomorrow.
I’d love to stick both red springs in but I think that would pull my Playseat Challenge apart under heavy breaking.
To summarise - so far so good.
- 16
- England
Not got a wheelstand pro, but I use a playseat challenge which is a similar pedal mount. I just bolted a flat metal bar from the underneath into the central mounting point of the pedals. My brake force is at 60% and it doesn’t move at all.
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@JeffKill Did you get the brake mod from Apex V2R? It would be great if you could share some impressions, how does it change the feel, is it better or not really? Even though $30 is not much money, it's still quite a bit for essentially a rubber ring so some first-hand impressions would help a lot. Thanks!
- 867
- JeffKill77
- JeffKill
- 3
- Melbourne, Australia
First post member 
Joined as just got my set of the T-LCM pedals, will update on my tests soon, coming from a G29 pedal set im sure it will be an adjustment hahaha
Having a look at the calibration software and given I am not hard mounitng this I think a lower brake force will work better, about 25% seems to feel good so far...?
Joined as just got my set of the T-LCM pedals, will update on my tests soon, coming from a G29 pedal set im sure it will be an adjustment hahaha Having a look at the calibration software and given I am not hard mounitng this I think a lower brake force will work better, about 25% seems to feel good so far...?
- 3
- Melbourne, Australia
Yep I am trying out settings around 25% in ACC at the moment, my pedals are against the wall so I cant have it require too much pressure like I could if they were mounted... I still suck though as I just got into sim racing in the last couple of months but this feels like I can be consisitent now, and only have myself to blame not the G29 pedals hahaha
- 26
- eclap78
Hey guys, before I browse through the whole thread, question. Got my T-LCM today and when I launch the calibration software, this is what I get. Pedals are plugged into the T300 wheelbase and are recognised in the control panel and they work in ACC just fine, but can't calibrate them. Help?
EDIT: Ok, when I plug in the USB into the pedals, the pedals show up in the calibration software. So do I have to have both connected? RJ12 into the wheel and USB into PC?
EDIT: Ok, just read the manual, it says to connect the USB cable and remove RJ12 for calibration. Gotcha. I might as well just not bother with RJ12 and plug directly into USB then.
EDIT: Ok, when I plug in the USB into the pedals, the pedals show up in the calibration software. So do I have to have both connected? RJ12 into the wheel and USB into PC?
EDIT: Ok, just read the manual, it says to connect the USB cable and remove RJ12 for calibration. Gotcha. I might as well just not bother with RJ12 and plug directly into USB then.
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- 2,677
- UK
- Outspacer
To be on the safe side only connect one, either to USB or to wheelbase, not both.
It's OK to leave both cables connected to the pedals as long as only one is plugged in at the other end.
For PC use connecting via USB seems to be the way to go, to get higher resolution and easy access to the calibration tool.
I only just got mine as well, so far I've been swapping connection when I've wanted to tweak and TBH it hasn't been often
Eventually I'll switch to using them on USB and reconfigure all my sims I guess.
- 26
- eclap78
Yeah, I'll only be using USB seeing as it's needed for calibration and has higher resolution through USB.To be on the safe side only connect one, either to USB or to wheelbase, not both.
It's OK to leave both cables connected to the pedals as long as only one is plugged in at the other end.
For PC use connecting via USB seems to be the way to go, to get higher resolution and easy access to the calibration tool.
I only just got mine as well, so far I've been swapping connection when I've wanted to tweak and TBH it hasn't been often
- 157
- United States
- jamman39
PSA: if you upgrade to the T-LCM from a non load cell set, and you play iRacing:
Make sure you go into your settings and reduce the brake force factor to zero.
I’m not sure how the setting actually works, but if you have it set to anything higher than zero it assumes you don’t have a load cell and tries to approximate one.
I switched this off after not realizing it was on for a week and the result has been much more consistent braking, and far less fluctuation in my lap times.
Make sure you go into your settings and reduce the brake force factor to zero.
I’m not sure how the setting actually works, but if you have it set to anything higher than zero it assumes you don’t have a load cell and tries to approximate one.
I switched this off after not realizing it was on for a week and the result has been much more consistent braking, and far less fluctuation in my lap times.
Yep I am trying out settings around 25% in ACC at the moment, my pedals are against the wall so I cant have it require too much pressure like I could if they were mounted... I still suck though as I just got into sim racing in the last couple of months but this feels like I can be consisitent now, and only have myself to blame not the G29 pedals hahaha
I think you need to be careful going as low as 25% otherwise the brake will be operating more based on travel rather than utilising the load cell.
Yep you are correct mate, I managed to find a way to stop my chair moving backwards hahaha - things i never had to consider with a G29 pedal set, so now running about 60%
I’ve up graded from the pedals I had with a g27 about 10 years ago and am mounted to a playseat challenge. I was trying to keep it low as only held together by Velcro strap. But but a couple of dumbbell weights on end to help weight down and now using red spring at bottom and brake force of 75 and liking it. Although I have also had to go from socks to a very thin sole trainer for first time ever. Although also experiments with the very low tec wrist sweat band around bottom of foot for added cushioning in place a trainer.
I view The brake force calibration setting more like a linearity tool and springs are more the strength setting.
- 4
- United States
- M_A_N_I_M_A_L_69
I got my T-LCM pedals delivered on April 7th. These pedals replaced the T3PA pedals that I wasn't happy with. That clicking noise every time I braked was very annoying until the brake spring broke. I replaced it with a brand new brake spring which was doing the same thing.
The T-LCM pedals are a huge upgrade and blows the T3PA out of the water. I placed the red spring on the bottom and black spring on the top while setting the brake force at 30% in the calibration tool app. The braking precision and consistency of the pedals are great and I'm very happy with it.
The T-LCM pedals are a huge upgrade and blows the T3PA out of the water. I placed the red spring on the bottom and black spring on the top while setting the brake force at 30% in the calibration tool app. The braking precision and consistency of the pedals are great and I'm very happy with it.
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,190
- Australia
- GT-MIC
I don't have these but I've heard they're fine out of the box. The calibration is more of a handy extra tuning tool to personalise your setting preference than anything I think. However you will have to update your T300 base from the Drivers section here: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rs-en/
- 16
- England
Like @FPV MIC said, the wheel base needs to be on the latest firmware but yes, they work out of the box. The LED on the wheel base will flash 5 times on start up with the pedals attached which shows its working correctly.
The calibration software is to tweak deadzones, brake force % etc. And is certainly a must if you change any of the springs from the default settings.
- 2,677
- UK
- Outspacer
I did a thing!
It's just a few 3D printed parts, a GTEYE Logitech brake spring, and a silicone stopper with its end chopped off, but it feels pretty good
Now need to do a bit of trial-and-error to see how many of the washers to use and what length of stopper.
Really nice of TM to come out with something we can set up how we like
Silicone Bung / Stopper is #18 from this ebay listing.
edit: attached the OpenSCAD file for making the pieces (remove the .txt extension leaving .scad)...
It's just a few 3D printed parts, a GTEYE Logitech brake spring, and a silicone stopper with its end chopped off, but it feels pretty good
Now need to do a bit of trial-and-error to see how many of the washers to use and what length of stopper.
Really nice of TM to come out with something we can set up how we like
Silicone Bung / Stopper is #18 from this ebay listing.
edit: attached the OpenSCAD file for making the pieces (remove the .txt extension leaving .scad)...
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I felt the same. I liked the feel of the Apex V2R mod but the reduction in travel was too much.
What I ended up doing, since they provided 2, was cut one in half, put it under the bottom spring, and removed silver preload spring (so the two black spacers were touching each other). This gave me the firm feel at the bottom of the pedal without reducing the travel too much.
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