Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

  • Thread starter Pennzoil23
  • 639 comments
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thanks FPV MIC
No worries 👍.

I found the quote where my question was answered too... it was in this thread. I asked specifically about the T-GT but I wouldn't expect it being any different for other TM wheels.

Will do tomorrow:

edit: yes the mode button on the t-GT swaps the gas and clutch pedals.
 
So in case anyone comes across the same "issue", I found an adjustment for the brake pedal return stopper. I've been running the spring setup below, along with one of the Apex V2R mods that I cut in half. I love the feel, however the spring stack becomes a little taller than standard, but I was able to fit it under the brake pedal (LOTS of tension however).

Overtime, the brake pedal rotated further back, where there was play between the spring stack and the pedal arm. I thought I may have bent something from the pressure, so I took the pedals apart, and found the stopper adjustment:

Basically just a threaded rod that is held in place by a nut that is tightened against the bottom of the pedal base. It had come loose under the pressure and the rod was free to loosen at that point. I readjusted it against the pedal to where it puts just enough tension on the spring stack, tightened the nut down, and all is well. Figured this would be useful for others wanting to run different springs/bushings :)
 
I have the Thrustmaster T150 wheel and the pedals, especially the brake, are pretty bad. I could get the T3PA Pedal add-ons for $99. Looks like a good upgrade but wondering whether it makes a huge difference. I'm just a casual racer, not going to buy a setup with expensive load cells that costs more than my PS4. I'd just like the brake to feel like a real brake, with some force feedback. What do you guys think about these pedals?
 
Hello guys.

I git problem with my TLCMs... I stopped racing for about a month and after this time gas pedal problem occured.

When im racing on SPA sometimes my gas pedal locks at 20% pressure. It happens randomly - when im flat out, accelerating or lifting. I got to lift off completly to unlock this... Sometimes it happens once for 7 laps, sometimes 7 times at one lap. Its very annoying.

I checked voltage, internet connection, updated them to V1.87, reseted to defaults. Still same problem occurs.

Anyone had same problem? Any ideas for solution?

I have important race today and will be hard to score points with broken hardware.
 
There's a new update for TM bases that introduces a separate higher resolution mode for the T-LCM pedals.

With the latest firmware update (*), the base can now manage these pedal sets in two different modes:
• T2PA / T3PA / T3PA-PRO MODE
• T-LCM MODE
00.png


http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download...T_LCM/T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf
 
There's a new update for TM bases that introduces a separate higher resolution mode for the T-LCM pedals.

Yes: NEW FIRMWARE IS AVAILABLE FOR MANY THRUSTMASTER FORCE FEEDBACK WHEELS

Nb: If you don't have a T-LCM pedal set it's not necessary to update (this new firmware is a big improvement for the T-LCM when connected to a Thrustmaster base via the RJ12 port).
  • T-GT: Firmware V7
  • T300: Firmware V31
  • T150: Firmware V21
  • TS-XW: Firmware V6
  • TX: Firmware V56
  • TMX: Firmware V15
  • TS-PC: Firmware V11
!!! With this new firmware, the racing wheel’s base now handles (and detects) differently the type of pedal set connected (via RJ12) to the base.
Check out the important note and information here: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download...T_LCM/T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf


So, with this new firmware:
  • The base will automatically switches to the new T-LCM Mode (as soon you connect a T-LCM to the RJ12 port). This Mode is stored in the base’s internal memory and stays active, even if you connect a T3PA / T3PA-PRO In this Mode T3PA/T3PA-PRO will not work correctly (the 3 pedals values will not reach 100%)
  • So if you connect to the base a T3PA/T3PA-PRO (after connecting a T-LCM) it’s necessary to manually switch (with the combo notify on the .pdf) from the T-LCM Mode to the T3PA/T3PA-PRO Mode.
106300862_1683418905158081_3880066852894912601_o.jpg
 
Has anyone upgraded as yet? Can you notice any differences?

I haven’t tried as yet as too hot for me and my equipment!
 
Has anyone upgraded as yet? Can you notice any differences?

I haven’t tried as yet as too hot for me and my equipment!

I upgraded the firmware for both my pedals and my base, but had been working on getting it running on ACC on Xbox. Going to see if the light flashes 10x correctly or if I can switch between the modes today
 
Any noticeable improvement in performance? Can’t imagine we’d notice much

Didn't notice any difference with the brake. I could say the throttle seemed a little more sensitive/precise but that could be placebo
 
Updating seems to have messed up my pedals :(

It says it has 1.87 loaded, but the serial number looks wrong, none of the pedals register, the force is set to zero (and if I change it and apply, it just goes back to zero after unplug and re-plug).

TLCM-calib.png


In Content Manager it shows up as 8 axis, throttle and brake move a couple of them but clutch does not.

In Game Devices it shows as "Sim Pedals" with an X-Y and a Z, throttle and brake move X and Z but clutch doesn't move Y.

Tried reloading firmware using the bootloader method, still the same.

Gonna try on a different PC tomorrow, not sure what else to try... any ideas?
 
Updating seems to have messed up my pedals :(

It says it has 1.87 loaded, but the serial number looks wrong, none of the pedals register, the force is set to zero (and if I change it and apply, it just goes back to zero after unplug and re-plug).

View attachment 934843

In Content Manager it shows up as 8 axis, throttle and brake move a couple of them but clutch does not.

In Game Devices it shows as "Sim Pedals" with an X-Y and a Z, throttle and brake move X and Z but clutch doesn't move Y.

Tried reloading firmware using the bootloader method, still the same.

Gonna try on a different PC tomorrow, not sure what else to try... any ideas?

have you updated firmware on both pedals and wheel?
 
have you updated firmware on both pedals and wheel?

Yes, done both. Plugging the pedals into the wheel made the LED flash many times as expected. The brake and gas work, however calibration seems to be back to default. The clutch isn't working still. All other wheel functions work OK.

Tried reloading pedals firmware from a different PC that had no previous TM software on it, still no joy with the calibration tool. It lets me set a different brake force and Apply it, but then its back to zero again. Factory Calibration button enables itself after doing that, but fixes nothing :(
 
Yes, done both. Plugging the pedals into the wheel made the LED flash many times as expected. The brake and gas work, however calibration seems to be back to default. The clutch isn't working still. All other wheel functions work OK.

Tried reloading pedals firmware from a different PC that had no previous TM software on it, still no joy with the calibration tool. It lets me set a different brake force and Apply it, but then its back to zero again. Factory Calibration button enables itself after doing that, but fixes nothing :(

not good. Thanks for posting this as I was going update pedal firmware and wheel from 30 to 31 to night, but going to hold fire for now.

Do you still have v30 of wheel firmware on your pc you go can back to?
 
not good. Thanks for posting this as I was going update pedal firmware and wheel from 30 to 31 to night, but going to hold fire for now.

Do you still have v30 of wheel firmware on your pc you go can back to?

I guess I have old wheel firmware in the previous TTRS driver package, although the new one seems fine, but was there pedal firmware in the previous TH8RS package? (I have 2019_th8rs_2) edit: there's no T-LCM driver in there :(

Odd thing is that the calibration tool does seem to be saving settings - I tried with a weak brake force and removed the deadzone at the end of the gas pedal. It still doesn't show pedal movement though, and clutch still dead.
 
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I guess I have old wheel firmware in the previous TTRS driver package, although the new one seems fine, but was there pedal firmware in the previous TH8RS package? (I have 2019_th8rs_2) edit: there's no T-LCM driver in there :(

Odd thing is that the calibration tool does seem to be saving settings - I tried with a weak brake force and removed the deadzone at the end of the gas pedal. It still doesn't show pedal movement though, and clutch still dead.

Did you get sorted? I’m still holding fire updating pedal firmware and from 30 to 31 on the wheel.
 
Did you get sorted? I’m still holding fire updating pedal firmware and from 30 to 31 on the wheel.

Not really. It seems I can use the calib tool to set stuff, but it gives me no feedback, and still reverts to showing brake force 0 each time I start it. Apart from the clutch, I can set the pedals into a usable state so I'm not keen on starting a return until they have some new ones to send out!

I can't be sure that the clutch problem is related to the update as I don't use it that often.

Wish I hadn't updated - it was working OK before and I'm not sure that the wheel change is a huge benefit; I could've just switched to using USB which I was going to anyway. Can't say I've noticed any improvement in precision or anything, but TBH I was just happy to be able to drive with them at all!

@BFIFE22 - does your calibration tool work OK after updating?
 
Yes looks like the calibration tool works and saves correctly. Make sure you unplug the pedals from the base if you aren't doing so. Same with updating the firmware.

Thanks for confirming that. Yes, I've unplugged from the base before using the USB every time.
 
So in case anyone comes across the same "issue", I found an adjustment for the brake pedal return stopper. I've been running the spring setup below, along with one of the Apex V2R mods that I cut in half. I love the feel, however the spring stack becomes a little taller than standard, but I was able to fit it under the brake pedal (LOTS of tension however).

Overtime, the brake pedal rotated further back, where there was play between the spring stack and the pedal arm. I thought I may have bent something from the pressure, so I took the pedals apart, and found the stopper adjustment:

Basically just a threaded rod that is held in place by a nut that is tightened against the bottom of the pedal base. It had come loose under the pressure and the rod was free to loosen at that point. I readjusted it against the pedal to where it puts just enough tension on the spring stack, tightened the nut down, and all is well. Figured this would be useful for others wanting to run different springs/bushings :)

Hey BFIFE22 your post was a godsend mate... same issue here... but with a standard stack of springs.

I noticed increasing spring rattling noise and less and less tension against the finale on the 3jd of the load spring rod...then saw/ remembered your post.

Exactly as per your issue it turned out the bolt/ nut tensioner was about 7mm out from being tight to the bottom of the pedal base :( poor stuff indeed...

Simply nipped it back up... and now back to nice tension when swapping springs out... and best of all no rattling when getting on and off the brakes.

I wonder if this could be ‘thread-locked’ into position with a spot of super glue possibly... I don’t fancy having to do the ‘Rig Limbo Dance’ (whilst swearing and sweating) every few months, to get the pedals off my rig (to tighten up this nut) and then ‘Rig Limbo Dance’ again whilst swearing to fix them back on again...

if the darn thing comes loose again I will do so.

Cheers very much matey... your post was/ is greatly appreciated.
 
Hey BFIFE22 your post was a godsend mate... same issue here... but with a standard stack of springs.

I noticed increasing spring rattling noise and less and less tension against the finale on the 3jd of the load spring rod...then saw/ remembered your post.

Exactly as per your issue it turned out the bolt/ nut tensioner was about 7mm out from being tight to the bottom of the pedal base :( poor stuff indeed...

Simply nipped it back up... and now back to nice tension when swapping springs out... and best of all no rattling when getting on and off the brakes.

I wonder if this could be ‘thread-locked’ into position with a spot of super glue possibly... I don’t fancy having to do the ‘Rig Limbo Dance’ (whilst swearing and sweating) every few months, to get the pedals off my rig (to tighten up this nut) and then ‘Rig Limbo Dance’ again whilst swearing to fix them back on again...

if the darn thing comes loose again I will do so.

Cheers very much matey... your post was/ is greatly appreciated.
I personally wouldn't use super glue. Something like Loctite threadlocker purple (blue at most) would be better suited. :)

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au...ts/blog/difference-between-threadlockers.html
 
Strange, the T-LCM product page has gone, now 404. Google's last cached copy is from 3rd July. :confused:
I think that's just the Shop page. I can still see them in the product page https://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/t-lcm-pedals :)

They've been near impossible to get down here in Oz until a shipment came in just recently, so it makes sense TM have dropped them from the Shop if they're having troubles keeping up.... and we've still got suppliers down here that have already sold out their August shipments.

Untitled1.png
 
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I have just put an order in for a set ... suppliers down here are saying mid July for next shipment ... Fingers crossed that's still on track, seeing the above post makes me a little nervous though :nervous:.
 
I have just put an order in for a set ... suppliers down here are saying mid July for next shipment ... Fingers crossed that's still on track, seeing the above post makes me a little nervous though :nervous:.
They've still got them in stock from the last shipment at SkyComp, Mwave and The Gamesman. Using the voucher code for The Gamesman on ebay is the best deal atm ($397 with free shipping). https://www.ebay.com.au/i/223965524...MIzoWl-IW36gIVjjUrCh0YygBOEAQYBCABEgK0-PD_BwE

Mine should be here from today onward :D
 
Thanks @FPV MIC ... Last time I ordered stuff from Pagnian Imports I got stung with all sorts of extra fees from customs... I think I just have to be patient this time :(.
 
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