Downhill Dino
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- DownhillDinosaur
No sorry, I haven't played in forever so I have updates. Which aren't working.
oh...No sorry, I haven't played in forever so I have updates. Which aren't working.
Which is why I use the "simulator" and "simplified"...only one that feels more natural. Though on some planes I can use Realistic.Mouse aim and simplified use the instructor mode which restricts lots of control input with the DS4.
Install the DS3 Tool, set the X360 emulation and it will be supported by all games that support X360 controller and will work exactly like it.Good news and bad news.
Bad news: My wired 360 controller is shot to hell. Barely even connects to my laptop or even my 360.
Good news: I might try my DS3 at some point to see if it works.
Actually, that's my most favorite enemy tank to go against. You can destroy it from all over with the 88mm Pak. The only thing is recently some of my shots have been 'mysteriously' inaccurate ad have been bouncing from the upper Glacis plates..A tank I love, and a tank you must HATE if you play for Germans or Americans in RB on rank IV.
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Joseph Stalin-2 aka IS-2.
The 122mm D-25T ("Destroyer-25T") divides any opponent by zero. If you hit in the right place, hehe...
My favourite WWII tank (the Tiger II is next to it). I'll finish researching the T-44 soon and will start my way to the IS-2 1944 model (with better hull front armor and a DShK machine gun attached).
Just got the jagdtiger and the upgraded rounds.... gonna need a few moments to myself
I hated starting out in German tanks, but they were supper fun. Try out the Marders. I really enjoyed playing those.Nice, I'm currently grinding up the Germany tier. I'm using the Pz III J, Pz IV F1, and the first Stug.
I hated starting out in German tanks, but they were supper fun. Try out the Marders. I really enjoyed playing those.
Just be very careful of exposing your flanks. The Marders are serious mobile artillery pieces that do a great amount of damage, yet as open tanks are punishment to artillery itself.I know, before one of the updates you only had the Pz II as a reserve tank but now theres one that actually has a cannon which I haven't tried out yet. Currently I'm researching the next tank in that line before the Marders.
Just be very careful of exposing your flanks. The Marders are serious mobile artillery pieces that do a great amount of damage, yet as open tanks are punishment to artillery itself.
A general rule for all german tanks (even the jagdtiger as I've come to find out) is to cover the lower glacis plate. Just about any enemy you face will have a better piece of metal on the bottom that you probably wont be able to pen, but they can just as easily. The Marder also can't really aim too well without traversing the entire tank, which is a downside to all spgs, but helps when you are doing the flanking.
My line-up right now is the Tiger II (H), Ferdinand, Jagdpanther, Jagdtiger, and whatever the first AA tank there is, and generally I'll use all of my SPGs in a match. That said, stay far enough not to get too close to the action, but close enough to allow the shells to make it to the targets before getting hit. Playing as German SPGs to be honest, is a lot better than the Soviets SPGs. They are defenseless on all sides unless they have the barrel pointed to you, and only have very thin armor. American tanks are a bit different, with the front of them being most armored and the sides paper thin. If you see an engaged sherman or lower tier tank, not aimed at you, let them pass or traverse to get a better shot, unless the turret is 45-90 degrees pointed away, which generally leaves a kill shot.
Now, I said I play almost 100% of the time as an SPG, but if the match is getting over run by air forces, or if there a few trees in the way, I'll spawn last as the AA tank. And if the match is centrally located in a town, the Tiger II H is a force not to be reckoned with. These are things that can turn the game around if the rest of the team focuses on the objective and normally you can come back to win it if the AA is doing their job too.
Anyways, when you play as an SPG (self-propelled gun if you haven't gotten that yet) you're probably going to have a 1:1 kd, or a little bit better on evenly matched games. When you get to the Jagdpather, the games will be super easy as the 88 pak43 is like shooting through wet tissue paper. That is, until you get the Ferdinand, which is when you'll be matched up against higher tiered tanks, that will easily kill the Jagdpanther in one shot. You'll then find shortly that the Jagdpanther has only one good use, and that's its speed. I'll normally go Jagdtiger first in a round and decide whether or not after I die if I want the Ferdinand after a few points. 1.) I'm holding down the team from extreme range 2.) They have good armor and equally good guns 3.) the bases/action are (is) close. Normally if one of those only meet, then I'll choose the Jagdpanther, but if I was dominating in the Jagdtiger, the Ferdinand is just as good.
If you're more into tanks, then don't bother much about the panthers unless you need speed in just one direction (as reverse is not really an option in them). The beginning Tiger tanks (H1 and E) are really good from an enemy standpoint. It often takes multiple shots even from a Ferdinand to kill you as your ammo, crew, and vital components are spaced far apart. Normally two shots does you in but 1 is possible every once in a while. The Tiger II P an H however is where the fun really is. Now you have a little bit better armor, but you need it to be used effectively, and getting shot on your flank even from a sub 75mm cannon is game over. In both the P and H models, swivel your gun around as the turret is the most vulnerable location aside from the lower glacis. A one shot from almost all competing tanks will knock either your turret drives out or an entire kill.
Now, when you meet a Maus, generally the easiest way to kill them is a flank shot just about halfway the length of the tank and just under the turret, maybe a foot or two.. More than likely you'll get the fuel tanks and ammo in one shot. Shooting at the cheeks of the tank doesn't work out too well, as he has to be aiming at you in order to get that type of shot off... And you're gonna want to put at least three of those in him to do anything..
I hope it's not too long of a summary as how to play German tanks, but German tanks are severely disadvantaged once you reach tier III an onwards. Russian tanks become almost impossible to kill from tier V, but you'll have plenty of IS-2s to kill. The easiest way to kill those is to shoot at the arched locations along the hull just under the turret, which is where all of the ammo is located. If you only see the turret than you're gonna want to hit just above the gun, which should disable the crew for a few seconds..
Have fun...
Most of that is for arcade, but applies for everything. You just have to scrutinize your work a lot more and pay attention a lot more too in RB.Right now I mainly play arcade battle so its pry a similar play style to realistic/sim battle strategy. I'm also playing all three nations to learn their weakness and strengths.
Confusing... I read it three times and still don't understand what they are changing. They say an 8.0 will play only 8.0 and higher, yet it can step down if it's the highest. What's the sense of refitting the entire thing if there will always be one higher ranked tank. Hell, I have the 1.3 BR AA with my 7.0 and 6.7's, yet it doesn't make a diff on matchmaking...Also what your guys thoughts on the new match making system they are developing.