YSSMAN's Infinite Crisis: Blackest Night (Post #816)

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8,000 miles per year, as it's been pointer out, isn't really that shocking. My mom used to only drive 5,000 miles per year when she had the PT Cruiser, although she worked out of the house which explained why. If you find a good used car with low miles it's a winner. You get a reasonably prices car with, presumably, few problems and less wear.
 
Be careful, that Celica was one of the sludge affected Toyota engines of that time.

# Toyota Camry 4 cyl. 1997-2001
# Toyota Camry 6 cyl. 1997-2002
# Toyota Solara 4 cyl. 1999-2001
# Toyota Solara 6 cyl. 1999-2002
# Toyota Sienna 6 cyl. 1998-2002
# Toyota Avalon 6 cyl. 1997-2002
# Toyota Celica 4 cyl. 1997-1999
# Toyota Highlander 6 cyl. 2001-2002
# Lexus ES300 1997-2002
# Lexus RX300 1999-2002

I wouldn't mind having one if I knew it didn't have any varnish/sludge yet, and I'd keep up with a constant regimen of 3,000 mile oil changes using a top quality oil (Pennzoil Platinum, etc.) at all times.
 
Celica's are nice. My friend has a 6th gen one (which, as stated, is faster) and we have had a ball doing sprints to McDonalds, swapping cars (if I have Dad's car) and sprinting back. They are pretty tank like, too. I also suggest if you are looking in that segment one of the faster cars sold against the Celica.

TopHat
Random idea: Acura Integra sedan? Yay or Nay?
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He would quickly run into 240SX syndrome with that one. Not many of them to begin with, and the ones left are usually molested or overpriced.
 
An Integra is a great car to have. Mine never gives me any troubles at all. No 240SX syndrome here, I used to have a KA24DE in my last car and it was nothing special, maybe if the said 240SX had a SR20 swap... ;)
 
Toronado
Celica's are nice. My friend has a 6th gen one (which, as stated, is faster) and we have had a ball doing sprints to McDonalds, swapping cars (if I have Dad's car) and sprinting back.
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:lol: Oh the joys of living in a small town.

Toronado I love you.
 
Thirdeye
Be careful, that Celica was one of the sludge affected Toyota engines of that time.

# Toyota Camry 4 cyl. 1997-2001
# Toyota Camry 6 cyl. 1997-2002
# Toyota Solara 4 cyl. 1999-2001
# Toyota Solara 6 cyl. 1999-2002
# Toyota Sienna 6 cyl. 1998-2002
# Toyota Avalon 6 cyl. 1997-2002
# Toyota Celica 4 cyl. 1997-1999
# Toyota Highlander 6 cyl. 2001-2002
# Lexus ES300 1997-2002
# Lexus RX300 1999-2002

I wouldn't mind having one if I knew it didn't have any varnish/sludge yet, and I'd keep up with a constant regimen of 3,000 mile oil changes using a top quality oil (Pennzoil Platinum, etc.) at all times.
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Castrol > Pennzoil.

And YSS, avoid a Camry with the I4 and automatic if you ever hope to have any sporty feelings what-so-ever. Its so slow that it can never be enjoyable. Reliable A to B that looks good and is comfy--but not sporty at all.
 
And why is Castrol better than Pennzoil? Do you do your research on motor oils? Castrol has their oils blended by the lowest bidder and currently uses Sodium as an additive to mask a coolant leak in the event of getting a used oil analysis (one of the reasons why I don't plan on using any of my 36 quarts of GTX in the basement anytime soon, except in the other cars I maintain) but Pennzoil on the other hand uses a blend of Group II+ and Group III Hydrocracked (Synthetic) base stocks and a very stout additive package with plenty of Molybdenum. For the price, it's an excellent synthetic blend (Just not advertised that way). I've seen it hold up to over 10,000 miles in some applications. I'd use GTX, I just don't feel it is truly better than the competition at this point in time.
 
Thirdeye
And why is Castrol better than Pennzoil? Do you do your research on motor oils? Castrol has their oils blended by the lowest bidder and currently uses Sodium as an additive to mask a coolant leak in the event of getting a used oil analysis (one of the reasons why I don't plan on using any of my 36 quarts of GTX in the basement anytime soon) but Pennzoil on the other hand uses a blend of Group II+ and Group III Hydrocracked base stocks and a very stout additive package with plenty of Molybdenum. For the price, it's an excellent synthetic blend (Just not advertised that way). I've seen it hold up to over 10,000 miles in some applications.
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  1. A Royal Purple employee told me Castrol was infact a better motor oil than Valvoline, Pennzoil, and Mobil One. He started talking about all the ingredients and so forth--which I frankly didn't understand--but after talking to a few other people of a mechanical experience of greater than 20 years agreed with him.
  2. I've used every motor oil known to man in my Camaro through the 127,000 or so miles I've owned it on top of the 117,000 miles that were on it when I got it and frankly I found less blackness and gunk from my Castrol versus Mobil One and Pennzoil. Valvoline wasn't used more than twice so I can't do a base comparison on it versus the others.

I have a high mileage engine (244,1xx miles) and I choose to run Castrol because my personal experience tells me that its better for my car.
 
You'd believe a Royal Purple employee over actual statistics? This is exactly why I chose to educate myself with actual research including the reading of actual MSDS and UOA/VOA's and also speaking to people who are actually tribologists and industry insiders, not salespeople. There is nothing special about Castrol that makes it better than any of those manufacturers you stated. It changes formulation often, as I've already said. And what is this black gunk you speak of? I don't see any relevance, because it makes no sense to me. You're saying that between oil changes you are seeing black gunk and it's magically going away when you use Castrol products? I've used a few oils in my time as well, and I have NEVER seen any of this black gunk you speak of. My Integra has been running flawlessly off of every oil I put in it. Be it Valvoline, Amsoil, Havoline, etc., it all comes out just dark brown at the end of a 4,000-4,500 mile oil change. If you like Castrol, that's fine. Use it with confidence, it's not a bad oil by any means. I have no issues with that (as you can see, I own some myself) but throwing out a statement like "This company is better than this company because Royal Purple told me so!" is kind of silly. No offense.
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Thirdeye
No 240SX syndrome here, I used to have a KA24DE in my last car and it was nothing special, maybe if the said 240SX had a SR20 swap... ;)
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240SX syndrome was explained in the second sentence.
 
YSSMAN
I'm probably going to make the real, hard, initial offer of $6800. I really can't go any higher than $7000 as of this week. I'll probably walk away from the deal at that point. Give it another week or two, I may come back and do more after the next pay check. Or, if they're willing to work with me, I may do more right way. I dunno. They seem pretty nice, and the lady who owns it knows my Step Mother apparently. I'm shooting for $7000, but I'm willing to play ball at different prices around that neighborhood.
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Here's a hint: It's a lot easier to haggle if you know more about what they're selling than they do. That way you can nitpick (and bs) your way into a lower price. Throw out an engine code, or a "this is a common problem", or maybe "It's competitor has this and that but the Celica only..." Maybe tell them that an Si with a bit higher mileage is worth the same price because it's so many miles better. Also mention that the GT is a rabbit turd in Genghis Kahn's toilet compared to the GT-Four, which is actually worth paying top dollar for. But don't tell them we never got that model. :lol:
 
By "black gunk" I mean the oil color itself. Castrol seemingly didn't appear as dirty.
 
Keef
Here's a hint: It's a lot easier to haggle if you know more about what they're selling than they do.
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I've talked about how it shares parts with my brother's Camry, which is just about to roll over to 200K miles. But this was with the dealer owner's nephew. It sounds like they're trying to get rid of it, and the lady who is selling it has been a long-time customer there... Probably why they have her car on the corner of the lot.

Per the sludge issue:

Given that its a 5S-FE and I always change my oil at 3,000-3,500 miles (I use Valvoline MaxLife), it shouldn't be a problem. Its a tough little four pot, and with only 77K on the clock, I'm really not expecting any issues until roughly 120K, or about the time I'm going to sell it. I figure by then it'll likely start needing work, and it would be a good time to move on to a new car... Either way, with the way I drive, I won't hit 100K for a little over two years.

===

Either way, I'm flexible. I would love to have a car right now, I'll admit that I'm getting a bit desperate, but I don't need one until the end of the summer. I'll stay firm that $7000 is the target, but I may concede and do $7250 or something. I see that NADA and KBB are meeting up around $7500, but Edmunds has it priced as low as $6600 even when in excellent condition. Seems like that's the magic area... $6800-7500.
 
JCE
By "black gunk" I mean the oil color itself. Castrol seemingly didn't appear as dirty.
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Unfortunately I bought into this before too. Motor oil color is no indication as to how well it is performing. It depends a lot on the engine and the additives used in the formulation. Don't worry. 👍
 
YSSMAN
I've talked about how it shares parts with my brother's Camry, which is just about to roll over to 200K miles. But this was with the dealer owner's nephew. It sounds like they're trying to get rid of it, and the lady who is selling it has been a long-time customer there... Probably why they have her car on the corner of the lot.

Per the sludge issue:

Given that its a 5S-FE and I always change my oil at 3,000-3,500 miles (I use Valvoline MaxLife), it shouldn't be a problem. Its a tough little four pot, and with only 77K on the clock, I'm really not expecting any issues until roughly 120K, or about the time I'm going to sell it. I figure by then it'll likely start needing work, and it would be a good time to move on to a new car... Either way, with the way I drive, I won't hit 100K for a little over two years.

===

Either way, I'm flexible. I would love to have a car right now, I'll admit that I'm getting a bit desperate, but I don't need one until the end of the summer. I'll stay firm that $7000 is the target, but I may concede and do $7250 or something. I see that NADA and KBB are meeting up around $7500, but Edmunds has it priced as low as $6600 even when in excellent condition. Seems like that's the magic area... $6800-7500.
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MaxLife is a fantastic oil. Used at your intervals you should have no issues. They used to use a Group IV PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetic in combination with a Group II base stock. They've since downgraded to using the Group III Hydrocracked synthetic along with a conventional Group II, from what I understand. But the performance is still there, it has an extremely robust additive pack. Does that engine use a timing chain or timing belt? If a belt, you might want to consider that into your purchase price. I know with my Honda engine it recommends every 90k for "normal" service (not sure what Toyota's interval would be if it has a belt). If you do end up test driving it and you're around my end of town, you're more than welcome to stop by and I'll give the engine/car a look-over for ya (PM me if you want). Good luck with what you decide!
 
Keef
Also mention that the GT is a rabbit turd in Genghis Kahn's toilet compared to the GT-Four, which is actually worth paying top dollar for. But don't tell them we never got that model. :lol:
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'90-'93 Celica All-Trac... the greatest Toyota ever sold in the States?
 
Minus the engine, yes, it may have been. But you'll have to confer with a Toyota man on that. The last-gen GT-S was and still is one of the best handling FWD cars you could buy right out of the box. It was up there with the SVT Focus, and it was lighter and quicker than the Focus to boot. It was like the refinement of an RSX wrapped in the small and light body of an Integra.
 
The Celixa All-Trac liked to break. And the 7th gen GT-S hit 60 mph faster. Blame the weight for that.
 
Brad, you know you're never going to end up getting a car, right? You've spent the last 6 months, over 700 replies, and you still have absolutely no idea what you want! :lol:

I mean in the past 2 weeks alone you've gone from a Brand New Mazda 3, to old Honda Civic, to new Honda civic, to old Celica, and now to old Camry. Tomorrow, X1/9?!
 
Trying to get the Celica...

I had a look at my finances last night, and as of today, I'm about $500 short after what the bank said they'd give me. That is assuming that the owner of the car stands firm on the price she said before. I could possibly get the car by Friday, maybe, but that puts my money in general into a spot I don't care to be in, so it may have to wait longer.

I'm not going to the place today, I'm going to make them wait. I'm going back tomorrow to play hardball on the outset, and if they don't bite, I'll walk. If it doesn't sell within two weeks, I'll go back and see where they stand.

I do want a car really, really bad... But I really don't need one until the end of the summer. So I can wait it out if I need to.

====

And Brad:

It may not look like I know what I want, but its more or less figuring out what I can afford. I can't do a brand-new car, that stretches the budget way too tight. So its a matter of finding a car in the $5-8K range that is in good shape, drives well, and is something I could fancy myself driving. So far the Celica fits the bill, however, it looks like that green Civic never sold, so I may re-check that if the Toyota doesn't work out. We'll see.

The good news is that this is the time of year that the market opens up for used cars, that, and I've got money that I know I can use now. So either way, it works out in the end. Eventually...
 
I'm buying it!!!

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My brother has to get home so I can grab the car and go, but otherwise, shes mine. Photos and such coming probably later tonight or early tomorrow! Huzzah!
 
It's a nice car. I like those old Celicas.
 
Cool, best of luck with it 👍
 
Nice pickup on the ST20..3? I know it's not the 205...that was the GT-FOUR.
 
The model codes for Celicas are nearly as confusing as the ones Honda used on Civics. I thought ST202, but Wikipedia says ST204.
 
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