Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[RS60NR]

Don't think I'm on the latest version, updated in November I think. Will update again soon.

It's not a big problem, it's only happened maybe three times. When it happens there is a clear and obvious "clunk" noise and feeling, and it's quite regular, sort of every five seconds. As you say only closing the game will fix. It happened at Yas Marina and the other day at Dragon Trail Seaside.

I sometimes experience much smaller "clicks" with the DD+ (and used to with the DD Pro too) but these are tiny and not repetitive.

Did some time in PS5 mode to compare FFB and now have felt the “clunk” in Full Force while idling. This at Dragon Trail as well in the PP GT3RS race - tried to closing the game and that did not clear it for me on that occaision

No idea on what triggers it, or if its just random, as not happening on all races, tracks or cars driven so far - not a lot of dedicated testing tho

 

[PirovacBoy]

I have read many comments about the "booster of 180w" to reach 8nm.

Right now I have set FFB at 5 and sensitivity at 1 and normally I drive in A_S setup.

Considering that I am using half of the 5nm power I was wondering why to move to 8nm if half of the power is already quite satisfing to me...
...but most probably I am not getting what it really means to have more power available...

Allow me to just blatantly chip in 😁
Indeed its not about actual numbers or more NM.
It's about the overall quality and precision that higher NM Values have to offer.
You can drive perfectly fine with 5NM as well as terribly bad.
It all depends to balance the In game sliders in combination with the Tuning Menu available Sliders.
Many of the Worlds fastest players use low Torque/FFB Values.
Which doesn't contradict that using higher Values can't be as fast.

Like i mentioned its only about balancing the effects to not overwhelm the Wheelbase in its technical abilities.

To put it short.
If you feel comfortable with the available 5NM, which by the way are more than enough for almost all modern Road Cars with Servo Steering assistance and if simulating GT cars and in general high downforce cars in the most possible authentic way is not your primary goal, than 5NM will be ok for most of the part.

On the other Hand, the 8NM Power supply unit will definitely boost not only your Peak Forces but more importantly, it will make the fine granular Effects feel more seperated and precise and let you experience modern GT Cars more realistic due to the higher available NM.
On top of that it will let your Wheelbase operate at a less stressful Level.
My general rule of thumb, less is mostly more and more is often too much.
It's all about the balance.

I would suggest that you try the following Settings :
Torque 5/Sensitivity 1
SEN Auto
FFB 100 ( 96 )
NDP 15-30 ( 16 )
NFR 1-10 ( 8 )
NIN 0
INT 11
FEI 60-100 ( 70 )
FOR 100
SPR 0
DPR 100

These do as well translate to the DD+.

They are my new go to Settings and before i forget, big shout out to @RS60NR
😉
Edit: Full Force 25-35 ( 33 )

 

[VTEC Driver]

Allow me to just blatantly chip in 😁
Indeed its not about actual numbers or more NM.
It's about the overall quality and precision that higher NM Values have to offer.
You can drive perfectly fine with 5NM as well as terribly bad.
It all depends to balance the In game sliders in combination with the Tuning Menu available Sliders.
Many of the Worlds fastest players use low Torque/FFB Values.
Which doesn't contradict that using higher Values can't be as fast.

Like i mentioned its only about balancing the effects to not overwhelm the Wheelbase in its technical abilities.

To put it short.
If you feel comfortable with the available 5NM, which by the way are more than enough for almost all modern Road Cars with Servo Steering assistance and if simulating GT cars and in general high downforce cars in the most possible authentic way is not your primary goal, than 5NM will be ok for most of the part.

On the other Hand, the 8NM Power supply unit will definitely boost not only your Peak Forces but more importantly, it will make the fine granular Effects feel more seperated and precise and let you experience modern GT Cars more realistic due to the higher available NM.
On top of that it will let your Wheelbase operate at a less stressful Level.
My general rule of thumb, less is mostly more and more is often too much.
It's all about the balance.

I would suggest that you try the following Settings :
Torque 5/Sensitivity 1
SEN Auto
FFB 100 ( 96 )
NDP 15-30 ( 16 )
NFR 1-10 ( 8 )
NIN 0
INT 11
FEI 60-100 ( 70 )
FOR 100
SPR 0
DPR 100

These do as well translate to the DD+.

They are my new go to Settings and before i forget, big shout out to @RS60NR
😉
Edit: Full Force 25-35 ( 33 )

Thank you for the exhaustive answer that is teaching me a lot of things.

When it comes to the value to set the wheel I see also a figure between parentheses.
Is it an average value?
Is it what you selected for yourself?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Thank you for the exhaustive answer that is teaching me a lot of things.

When it comes to the value to set the wheel I see also a figure between parentheses.
Is it an average value?
Is it what you selected for yourself?

Thanks again for your help.

It is what i have chosen to use myself.
Give them a try and see if you like them.
If not then use what ever feels best to you.

 

[RS60NR]

Allow me to just blatantly chip in 😁
Indeed its not about actual numbers or more NM.
It's about the overall quality and precision that higher NM Values have to offer.
You can drive perfectly fine with 5NM as well as terribly bad.
It all depends to balance the In game sliders in combination with the Tuning Menu available Sliders.
Many of the Worlds fastest players use low Torque/FFB Values.
Which doesn't contradict that using higher Values can't be as fast.

Like i mentioned its only about balancing the effects to not overwhelm the Wheelbase in its technical abilities.

To put it short.
If you feel comfortable with the available 5NM, which by the way are more than enough for almost all modern Road Cars with Servo Steering assistance and if simulating GT cars and in general high downforce cars in the most possible authentic way is not your primary goal, than 5NM will be ok for most of the part.

On the other Hand, the 8NM Power supply unit will definitely boost not only your Peak Forces but more importantly, it will make the fine granular Effects feel more seperated and precise and let you experience modern GT Cars more realistic due to the higher available NM.
On top of that it will let your Wheelbase operate at a less stressful Level.
My general rule of thumb, less is mostly more and more is often too much.
It's all about the balance.

I would suggest that you try the following Settings :
Torque 5/Sensitivity 1
SEN Auto
FFB 100 ( 96 )
NDP 15-30 ( 16 )
NFR 1-10 ( 8 )
NIN 0
INT 11
FEI 60-100 ( 70 )
FOR 100
SPR 0
DPR 100

These do as well translate to the DD+.

They are my new go to Settings and before i forget, big shout out to @RS60NR
😉
Edit: Full Force 25-35 ( 33 )

Hey thx man - same to you!

Some thoughts after a bunch of laps w your latest, using the (values).

First IMO ever since driver 474 the FOR component just seems broken - too high at 100 and it exagerates suspension feel way too much - 60-70 feels right to me, running FFB 85-95 to control overall strength

I found it a very interesting idea to run lower NDP (natural damping) and then turning FEI (force effect intensity) down to compensate, but i found 70 a bit too much - 90 was more my preference otherwise it felt a bit numb and a touch rubbery to me. A clever way to set up to acheive a certain feel compared to my current setup (if I normalize FFB and FOR)

 

[effenberg]

Allow me to just blatantly chip in 😁
Indeed its not about actual numbers or more NM.
It's about the overall quality and precision that higher NM Values have to offer.
You can drive perfectly fine with 5NM as well as terribly bad.
It all depends to balance the In game sliders in combination with the Tuning Menu available Sliders.
Many of the Worlds fastest players use low Torque/FFB Values.
Which doesn't contradict that using higher Values can't be as fast.

Like i mentioned its only about balancing the effects to not overwhelm the Wheelbase in its technical abilities.

To put it short.
If you feel comfortable with the available 5NM, which by the way are more than enough for almost all modern Road Cars with Servo Steering assistance and if simulating GT cars and in general high downforce cars in the most possible authentic way is not your primary goal, than 5NM will be ok for most of the part.

On the other Hand, the 8NM Power supply unit will definitely boost not only your Peak Forces but more importantly, it will make the fine granular Effects feel more seperated and precise and let you experience modern GT Cars more realistic due to the higher available NM.
On top of that it will let your Wheelbase operate at a less stressful Level.
My general rule of thumb, less is mostly more and more is often too much.
It's all about the balance.

I would suggest that you try the following Settings :
Torque 5/Sensitivity 1
SEN Auto
FFB 100 ( 96 )
NDP 15-30 ( 16 )
NFR 1-10 ( 8 )
NIN 0
INT 11
FEI 60-100 ( 70 )
FOR 100
SPR 0
DPR 100

These do as well translate to the DD+.

They are my new go to Settings and before i forget, big shout out to @RS60NR
😉
Edit: Full Force 25-35 ( 33 )

Idk if I agree with your idea of "higher nM = better FFB". Torque (nM) and FFB are separate concepts AFAIK.

Also I have seem more than one top player saying that, even while having top gear with 15nM, they only use 2 or 3, because higher Torque (nM) makes you "miss important FFB info cause you are busy fighting against the wheel".

And if you are talking that "higher nM = more realistic" cause real cars are "heavy", that has been debunked multiple times.

 

[SpeedyChris22]

here are my settings that work well for me, however during the manufacturers race with the Porsche around the last turn I get a violent snap of the wheel. It happens other places but not to this magnitude. What can I adjust?

Torque 5/Sensitivity 1
SEN Auto
FFB 100
FF 100
NDP 20
NFR 5
NIN 0
INT 2
FEI 80
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100

 

[PirovacBoy]

Idk if I agree with your idea of "higher nM = better FFB". Torque (nM) and FFB are separate concepts AFAIK.

Also I have seem more than one top player saying that, even while having top gear with 15nM, they only use 2 or 3, because higher Torque (nM) makes you "miss important FFB info cause you are busy fighting against the wheel".

And if you are talking that "higher nM = more realistic" cause real cars are "heavy", that has been debunked multiple times.

Of course you are free to disagree on everything I wrote down.
If you are interested in this complex science, there are loads of articles explaining everything into detail and really big time digging that rabbit hole .
O yeah, top players adore using low Torque Values... absolutely.
Especially on them high on Newtons Wheelbases it delivers the most detailed granular FFB output to let them perform to the best they can.
Which doesn't mean that turning up the Newtons wouldn't let them perform at that level.
It's way easier, less exhausting and overall the best choice to keep NM as low as possible and juuuust as high as needed to get the most speed out of a car AND repeating it over and over .
Again the same can be achieved with higher NM Values... The Fitness Level as well as skillet requires an even way more precise approach.

You don't loose Details as long as the Forces reproduced are not physically overwhelming you.
Yet it is naturally less stress to your body and mentally less draining.
Just look at real race drivers.
These Guys are Spartans, Workout is essentially a necessity.
So yeah Top Players are a different Breed.
Noodle Arms don't contradict being fast
Yet being build more manly 😂 let's you experience the beauty of Motorsport in a more physical... A more realistic way.
Is it necessary... Nope.
Is it more fun .. Hell yeah 😁
And I don't remember your last claim exactly.
Yet let me put it this way .
Newtons Law can't be bend.
It's Physics , and it's in its nature that higher Cornering Forces will Produce a higher Impact to your Body, and who would have thought it's these Forces we Sim Racers try to replicate through our Steering Wheel
Because we are desperate suckers for G Forces...And ..
It's not just G Forces ...
Think about Tire Friction , what about undulations, compressions, going at high speeds over a crest, understeer , Oversteer...
Going Faster means more velocity which means higher Forces due to higher Down force...I'm talking race cars not shopping trolleys.
Road Cars 2 to maybe 4 NM
Race Cars on Slicks maybe 6 to 8NM
O and not to forget the true beauties....Go Karts which go as high as 20 + NM, no servo steering assisted.

This Guy Newton is such a ... 😁

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

@PirovacBoy

2 nights ago I finally experienced the rhythmic thump or click. It happened at seaside after an unusually hard impact in the chicane with the Zonda. Turning the wheel off and back on didn't fix it, however backing all the way out of the event and going back in did.

I need to add that after using the G Pro for over a year I did experience very unusual TrueForce effects after unusually hard impacts, usually really strange rhythmic buzzing instead of clicks. It happened perhaps 3 or 4 times in a year.

 

[PirovacBoy]

@PirovacBoy

2 nights ago I finally experienced the rhythmic thump or click. It happened at seaside after an unusually hard impact in the chicane with the Zonda. Turning the wheel off and back on didn't fix it, however backing all the way out of the event and going back in did.

I need to add that after using the G Pro for over a year I did experience very unusual TrueForce effects after unusually hard impacts, usually really strange rhythmic buzzing instead of clicks. It happened perhaps 3 or 4 times in a year.

These Clicking/Rhytmic Vibrations are most probably a decoding issue/FFB API Protocol being set wrongly and therefore causing the issue.
You are the fifth person me included over here reporting it .
I was the first one on December 5th who immediately noticed something was off.
There are also a few ones in Fanatec Forums mentioned it.
So definitely not a one off Unicorn and most likely NOT Hardware related like I also concluded after doing a lot of in depth tests the first few days FF was implemented.
Even Maurice Böschen mentioned that Polyphony themselves are aware of an PS4)PS5 Issue, with the Signal Output not matching their interests in PS5 mode, and already working on it.
That Statement was made on December 7th or 8th.
To me that's all BS Fake News .
PD would have asap provided a patch.
Fanatec/Corsair messed it up and they are most likely responsible for the issue.

Maurice Böschen, that is not very noble ...
I even asked him personally some questions in regards of the issue,...dead silence...ghosted.
My 2 cents...with the Podium DD shipping now I highly assume a final release public Driver FW is coming soon....I can already smell that yummy taste in the cold German early morning breeze...,🥸
Patience is B....💯😅

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

The Logi G Pro was vulnerable to these fullforce/trueforce glitches as well tho. The wheel would become unusable once it glitched due to the TrueForce noise. Had to back out all the way and back in again.

 

[Dule savic]

These Clicking/Rhytmic Vibrations are most probably a decoding issue/FFB API Protocol being set wrongly and therefore causing the issue.
You are the fifth person me included over here reporting it .
I was the first one on December 5th who immediately noticed something was off.
There are also a few ones in Fanatec Forums mentioned it.
So definitely not a one off Unicorn and most likely NOT Hardware related like I also concluded after doing a lot of in depth tests the first few days FF was implemented.
Even Maurice Böschen mentioned that Polyphony themselves are aware of an PS4)PS5 Issue, with the Signal Output not matching their interests in PS5 mode, and already working on it.
That Statement was made on December 7th or 8th.
To me that's all BS Fake News .
PD would have asap provided a patch.
Fanatec/Corsair messed it up and they are most likely responsible for the issue.

Maurice Böschen, that is not very noble ...
I even asked him personally some questions in regards of the issue,...dead silence...ghosted.
My 2 cents...with the Podium DD shipping now I highly assume a final release public Driver FW is coming soon....I can already smell that yummy taste in the cold German early morning breeze...,🥸
Patience is B....💯😅

I felt it dozen of times since FullForce update arrived, also couldnt identify meaning of that "new information". Even if I stopped the car it could continue sending those drunk signals. Since I stopped using fullforce, drunk signal also got his **** together .

 

[rsspyder21]

I was finally about to uninstall the old Fanatec updater etc and download the beta app for Full Force, but there are just too many reported issues here and on the Fanatec forum for me to feel like it’s worth the risk. My DD+ and GT3 rim with the BME work perfectly well as is. Just can’t bring myself to potentially ruin that when I don’t have to. The situation is comically infuriating.

 

[BWX]

New version to try... 🤷‍♂️

Fanatec App v1.2.1.3

https://forum.fanatec.com/topic/19472-fanatec-app-v1213/

Recommended for the new Podium DD.
Fixed steering wheel disconnection issue with ClubSport DD and ClubSport DD+.
Fixed QR version displayed as 0.0.0.0

Firmware versions included:

• Podium DD: 2.8.0.6 (New)
• Podium DD QR: 1.2.1.3 (New)
• Podium DD1 / DD2 Base: 3.6.1.2
• Podium DD1 / DD2 Motor: 3.0.1.1
• Podium DD1 / DD2 WQR: 7
• ClubSport DD(+) Base: 2.8.0.6 (New)
• ClubSport DD(+) QR: 1.2.1.3 (New)
• CSL DD / GT DD Pro Base: 1.6.1.2
• CSL DD / GT DD Pro Motor: 1.0.3.2
• CSL DD / GT DD Pro QR: 6.0.1.1
• CSW V1 Base: 708
• CSW V2 Base: 708
• CSW V2.5 Base: 708
• CSL Elite Base: 708
• CSL Elite Base PS4: 708
• CSL / CSW Motor: 22
• Podium Bentley GT3 Wheel: 1.0.7.0
• Podium Bentley GT3 Video: 1.0.2.0
• Podium BMW M4 GT3: 11
• Podium Hub: 6
• Podium BME: 27      
• Podium BMR: 1.0.2.1
• CS SW Formula V2(X), V2.5(X): 49 / 1.0.7.2
• CS SW RS: 4
• CS SW BMW V2: 3
• CS SW F1 Esports V2: 5
• CS UH V2 / UHX V2: 2
• GT DD Extreme SW: 1.0.11.1
• GT DD Pro SW: 8 / 1.0.1.0
• CSL Elite SW Porsche Vision GT: 1.4.0.2
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3: 37
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 V2: 49
• CSL Elite SW WRC: 4
• CSL Steering Wheel GT3: 51
• CSL UH, CSL UH V2: 8
• CS P V3: 1.35
• CSL Elite Pedals V2: 1.6
• CSL Elite Pedals Load Cell Kit: 1.13
• CSL Pedals Load Cell Kit: 1.8
• CS USB Adapter - Handbrake: 1.10
• CS USB Adapter - Shifter: 1.12
• CS USB Adapter - CSL Pedals: 1.1
• CS USB Adapter - CSL Elite Pedals: 0.1

Known Firmware issues:

• The ITM on the Gran Turismo DD Extreme Steering Wheel sometimes freezes and shows wrong data. A full ITM rework for this wheel is planned with an upcoming driver release soon.
• The steering input jump issue was greatly improved some time ago so the issue happens a lot less than before. A full fix is still in development to be released with an upcoming driver release.
• When entering a game menu while driving it can happen in some games that the FFB effect doesn't get canceled which results in the wheel turning to one side. This was fixed for the Podium DD some time ago but can still happen on the CSL DD. We have reworked the communication protocols between the base and the motor and are in advanced testing to apply the fix for the CSL DD with an upcoming special driver release soon.
• Natural Friction (NFR) can start to feel weird after some time of driving and can cause shaking / oscillations. In case you experience issues with NFR, we suggest to turn it OFF for now. This was fixed for the Podium DD some time ago but can still happen on the CSL DD. We have reworked the communication protocols between the base and the motor and are in advanced testing to apply the fix for the CSL DD with an upcoming special driver release soon.
• Podium DD always shows 'Low Torque Mode' in the App (this is just a visual error).

 

[rsspyder21]

New version to try... 🤷‍♂️

Fanatec App v1.2.1.3

https://forum.fanatec.com/topic/19472-fanatec-app-v1213/

Recommended for the new Podium DD.
Fixed steering wheel disconnection issue with ClubSport DD and ClubSport DD+.
Fixed QR version displayed as 0.0.0.0

Firmware versions included:

• Podium DD: 2.8.0.6 (New)
• Podium DD QR: 1.2.1.3 (New)
• Podium DD1 / DD2 Base: 3.6.1.2
• Podium DD1 / DD2 Motor: 3.0.1.1
• Podium DD1 / DD2 WQR: 7
• ClubSport DD(+) Base: 2.8.0.6 (New)
• ClubSport DD(+) QR: 1.2.1.3 (New)
• CSL DD / GT DD Pro Base: 1.6.1.2
• CSL DD / GT DD Pro Motor: 1.0.3.2
• CSL DD / GT DD Pro QR: 6.0.1.1
• CSW V1 Base: 708
• CSW V2 Base: 708
• CSW V2.5 Base: 708
• CSL Elite Base: 708
• CSL Elite Base PS4: 708
• CSL / CSW Motor: 22
• Podium Bentley GT3 Wheel: 1.0.7.0
• Podium Bentley GT3 Video: 1.0.2.0
• Podium BMW M4 GT3: 11
• Podium Hub: 6
• Podium BME: 27      
• Podium BMR: 1.0.2.1
• CS SW Formula V2(X), V2.5(X): 49 / 1.0.7.2
• CS SW RS: 4
• CS SW BMW V2: 3
• CS SW F1 Esports V2: 5
• CS UH V2 / UHX V2: 2
• GT DD Extreme SW: 1.0.11.1
• GT DD Pro SW: 8 / 1.0.1.0
• CSL Elite SW Porsche Vision GT: 1.4.0.2
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3: 37
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 V2: 49
• CSL Elite SW WRC: 4
• CSL Steering Wheel GT3: 51
• CSL UH, CSL UH V2: 8
• CS P V3: 1.35
• CSL Elite Pedals V2: 1.6
• CSL Elite Pedals Load Cell Kit: 1.13
• CSL Pedals Load Cell Kit: 1.8
• CS USB Adapter - Handbrake: 1.10
• CS USB Adapter - Shifter: 1.12
• CS USB Adapter - CSL Pedals: 1.1
• CS USB Adapter - CSL Elite Pedals: 0.1

Known Firmware issues:

• The ITM on the Gran Turismo DD Extreme Steering Wheel sometimes freezes and shows wrong data. A full ITM rework for this wheel is planned with an upcoming driver release soon.
• The steering input jump issue was greatly improved some time ago so the issue happens a lot less than before. A full fix is still in development to be released with an upcoming driver release.
• When entering a game menu while driving it can happen in some games that the FFB effect doesn't get canceled which results in the wheel turning to one side. This was fixed for the Podium DD some time ago but can still happen on the CSL DD. We have reworked the communication protocols between the base and the motor and are in advanced testing to apply the fix for the CSL DD with an upcoming special driver release soon.
• Natural Friction (NFR) can start to feel weird after some time of driving and can cause shaking / oscillations. In case you experience issues with NFR, we suggest to turn it OFF for now. This was fixed for the Podium DD some time ago but can still happen on the CSL DD. We have reworked the communication protocols between the base and the motor and are in advanced testing to apply the fix for the CSL DD with an upcoming special driver release soon.
• Podium DD always shows 'Low Torque Mode' in the App (this is just a visual error).

This is another beta? I’ve been using Fanatec gear for about five years now and have had mostly good experience, unlike some. But I’m beginning to get fed up with Fanatec and myself. I wish I didn’t continue to want to play GT games along with PC, otherwise I’d just switch to Simucube most likely. It’s unreal how many continuous software issues there are. People already reporting problems with this new app version. Like I said above, I can’t bring myself to try these new app versions because my DD+ has worked fine this entire time. But that means I’ve still not experienced Full Force. It’s ridiculous.

 

[timekiller001]

This is another beta? I’ve been using Fanatec gear for about five years now and have had mostly good experience, unlike some. But I’m beginning to get fed up with Fanatec and myself. I wish I didn’t continue to want to play GT games along with PC, otherwise I’d just switch to Simucube most likely. It’s unreal how many continuous software issues there are. People already reporting problems with this new app version. Like I said above, I can’t bring myself to try these new app versions because my DD+ has worked fine this entire time. But that means I’ve still not experienced Full Force. It’s ridiculous.

I think you should still give it a try for Fullforce. You should be able to downgrade again if necessary.

Last time I've updated to is I believe 1.2.0.5 and don't have any issues. But from past experiences it can be different from one person to another.

 

[ANDRITSOULAS]

This is another beta? I’ve been using Fanatec gear for about five years now and have had mostly good experience, unlike some. But I’m beginning to get fed up with Fanatec and myself. I wish I didn’t continue to want to play GT games along with PC, otherwise I’d just switch to Simucube most likely. It’s unreal how many continuous software issues there are. People already reporting problems with this new app version. Like I said above, I can’t bring myself to try these new app versions because my DD+ has worked fine this entire time. But that means I’ve still not experienced Full Force. It’s ridiculous.

It is also on the official software page . So it is legit and official version. The file is ''FanatecAppInstaller_v1.2.1.3''

 

[BWX]

This is another beta? I’ve been using Fanatec gear for about five years now and have had mostly good experience, unlike some. But I’m beginning to get fed up with Fanatec and myself. I wish I didn’t continue to want to play GT games along with PC, otherwise I’d just switch to Simucube most likely. It’s unreal how many continuous software issues there are. People already reporting problems with this new app version. Like I said above, I can’t bring myself to try these new app versions because my DD+ has worked fine this entire time. But that means I’ve still not experienced Full Force. It’s ridiculous.

I’m on 1.2.0.6 and it’s working fine but I mostly use wheel on PS5. I do use it on PC but I don’t use the car or game profiles in the app yet and never have. Those seem to be buggy and unreliable still in the new app from what I’ve seen.

But yeah Fanatec aren’t doing themselves any favors with their glacial pace of bug fixes and software development. It does seem to be moving slightly faster since they were acquired but it may be too little, too late for a lot of their current and/ or potential customers. I can’t argue with that.

You should try Fullforce though, it’s pretty good.

 

[RS60NR]

When Fanatec says “beta” they aren’t clear on whether its the app, the FW or both

in my experience any Fanatec software or FW update should be considered beta until you see how it does on release

Every “official” version of the app so far has been fairly quickly updated due a long list of bugs in the app itself as they attempt to integrate all the PC specific functionality of the old driver/fanalab packages

New FW issues come up w every release because of they are not able to fully test across the large ecosystem - which they are now thinning out by dropping support for oldest products BTW

If you’re on the older CSW 2, 2.5 or CSL elite be especially conservative before updating

I’m on the 1.2.1.1 FW set for DD+ - no issues and really like how Full Force adds immersion - but there does seem to be some differences in the CS DD/+ builds that have issues due to quality or parts substitutions due to supply chain issues

 

[rsspyder21]

I think you should still give it a try for Fullforce. You should be able to downgrade again if necessary.

Last time I've updated to is I believe 1.2.0.5 and don't have any issues. But from past experiences it can be different from one person to another.

I’m on 1.2.0.6 and it’s working fine but I mostly use wheel on PS5. I do use it on PC but I don’t use the car or game profiles in the app yet and never have. Those seem to be buggy and unreliable still in the new app from what I’ve seen.

But yeah Fanatec aren’t doing themselves any favors with their glacial pace of bug fixes and software development. It does seem to be moving slightly faster since they were acquired but it may be too little, too late for a lot of their current and/ or potential customers. I can’t argue with that.

You should try Fullforce though, it’s pretty good.

I’m at the Rolex 24 all weekend but maybe I’ll bite the bullet and update my DD+ when I get home. I just know I’ll lose my mind if it introduces problems like people are reporting in Fanatec’s forum thread, since my setup has worked flawlessly for the past year or more. But I guess I’m going to have to do so at some point, so …

 

[VTEC Driver]

Allow me to just blatantly chip in 😁
Indeed its not about actual numbers or more NM.
It's about the overall quality and precision that higher NM Values have to offer.
You can drive perfectly fine with 5NM as well as terribly bad.
It all depends to balance the In game sliders in combination with the Tuning Menu available Sliders.
Many of the Worlds fastest players use low Torque/FFB Values.
Which doesn't contradict that using higher Values can't be as fast.

Like i mentioned its only about balancing the effects to not overwhelm the Wheelbase in its technical abilities.

To put it short.
If you feel comfortable with the available 5NM, which by the way are more than enough for almost all modern Road Cars with Servo Steering assistance and if simulating GT cars and in general high downforce cars in the most possible authentic way is not your primary goal, than 5NM will be ok for most of the part.

On the other Hand, the 8NM Power supply unit will definitely boost not only your Peak Forces but more importantly, it will make the fine granular Effects feel more seperated and precise and let you experience modern GT Cars more realistic due to the higher available NM.
On top of that it will let your Wheelbase operate at a less stressful Level.
My general rule of thumb, less is mostly more and more is often too much.
It's all about the balance.

I would suggest that you try the following Settings :
Torque 5/Sensitivity 1
SEN Auto
FFB 100 ( 96 )
NDP 15-30 ( 16 )
NFR 1-10 ( 8 )
NIN 0
INT 11
FEI 60-100 ( 70 )
FOR 100
SPR 0
DPR 100

These do as well translate to the DD+.

They are my new go to Settings and before i forget, big shout out to @RS60NR
😉
Edit: Full Force 25-35 ( 33 )

Hi,
finally I found the time to try your settings and I liked a lot.
I mean, I don't think to have the capability to understand why I feeling the difference, but the timer is speaking by itself because I was capable to be 2 seconds faster at SPA...
Let say that I feel myself more confident in taking some riscks in the curves, I have the feeling to have "more control". Is it right?

On the other hand what I am noticing is that I have quite intensive oscillations, mainly on the straights and when the speed is high.
Is it normal? I mean, the cause is the asphalt of that specific track? Is it due to the aerodinamics of the car?
And in case I would reduce that effect, which is the paramether to change?

I think that the oscillation was existing also before, but maybe this setup is giving that effect in more "realistic" way (?)...
I don't know...

 

[RS60NR]

Hi,
finally I found the time to try your settings and I liked a lot.
I mean, I don't think to have the capability to understand why I feeling the difference, but the timer is speaking by itself because I was capable to be 2 seconds faster at SPA...
Let say that I feel myself more confident in taking some riscks in the curves, I have the feeling to have "more control". Is it right?

On the other hand what I am noticing is that I have quite intensive oscillations, mainly on the straights and when the speed is high.
Is it normal? I mean, the cause is the asphalt of that specific track? Is it due to the aerodinamics of the car?
And in case I would reduce that effect, which is the paramether to change?

I think that the oscillation was existing also before, but maybe this setup is giving that effect in more "realistic" way (?)...
I don't know...

I’m using similar settings and I think the oscillation is related to suspension calculations and is primarily using the FOR setting so try 80-90 and up the NDP a bit

 

[The Crock]

I felt like wasting money for no reason, so I did a "sideways" upgrade from my PS compatible Podium DD1 to the DD Extreme during the sale Fanatec just had. I mainly wanted the GT wheel since it's what I play most, and to see what Fullforce is all about. I finally got to mount it after sitting on it for a few weeks due to work.

My initial impressions and comparison to my old base:

• I loved the FFB on the Podium DD1, so I was surprised at how much smoother this DD+ is. It's everything detail wise but better, as expected for a newer base. But holy crap this is buttery smooth. Since I played on the Podium and then the DD+ basically back to back the change was so noticeable. Not life changing, but still a very clear difference for the better. Everything is crisper.
• I'm not missing the extra 5 NM peak FFB. I thought I would. DD+ gets very close without it.
• the GT Wheel - I really like it, pre-mapped buttons are great, but the wheel makes my hands sweat lol and it's the only one that does. And it's not like I grip the wheel hard, either.
• QR2 plastic, surprisingly decent, but I got a new metal one on the way to replace it - there is some tiny flex my anal retentiveness won't allow.
• Fullforce - I thought this would be gimmicky, but pleasantly surprised. I kinda like having a volume dial for curb effects in GT since there's no separate in game slider.
• When you start to add more filtering to the base, it starts to feel closer (but not quite) to older Fanatec bases like the Podium DD1. Unfiltered is where you can tell this is all new motor/software. Because of the smoothness, it needs less filtering. The old Podium is great but it's raw. I assume the new Podium is just like this CS DD+ base.
• The worst part was Fanatec's Achilles heel: the FW upgrade. I'm always on high alert during these and of course it struggled to update the FW on this. Nearly thought it had bricked the new base. This is the area we all know as Fanatec users they need the most improvement on. Kind of pathetic they're this bad at this process. But it updated, eventually, after nearly giving me a heart attack.

Can't wait to hop on back tonight and keep using this thing. My old Podium DD1 served me well for a long time and it will be kept as backup.

 

[Shah1]

I felt like wasting money for no reason, so I did a "sideways" upgrade from my PS compatible Podium DD1 to the DD Extreme during the sale Fanatec just had. I mainly wanted the GT wheel since it's what I play most, and to see what Fullforce is all about. I finally got to mount it after sitting on it for a few weeks due to work.

My initial impressions and comparison to my old base:

• I loved the FFB on the Podium DD1, so I was surprised at how much smoother this DD+ is. It's everything detail wise but better, as expected for a newer base. But holy crap this is buttery smooth. Since I played on the Podium and then the DD+ basically back to back the change was so noticeable. Not life changing, but still a very clear difference for the better. Everything is crisper.
• I'm not missing the extra 5 NM peak FFB. I thought I would. DD+ gets very close without it.
• the GT Wheel - I really like it, pre-mapped buttons are great, but the wheel makes my hands sweat lol and it's the only one that does. And it's not like I grip the wheel hard, either.
• QR2 plastic, surprisingly decent, but I got a new metal one on the way to replace it - there is some tiny flex my anal retentiveness won't allow.
• Fullforce - I thought this would be gimmicky, but pleasantly surprised. I kinda like having a volume dial for curb effects in GT since there's no separate in game slider.
• When you start to add more filtering to the base, it starts to feel closer (but not quite) to older Fanatec bases like the Podium DD1. Unfiltered is where you can tell this is all new motor/software. Because of the smoothness, it needs less filtering. The old Podium is great but it's raw. I assume the new Podium is just like this CS DD+ base.
• The worst part was Fanatec's Achilles heel: the FW upgrade. I'm always on high alert during these and of course it struggled to update the FW on this. Nearly thought it had bricked the new base. This is the area we all know as Fanatec users they need the most improvement on. Kind of pathetic they're this bad at this process. But it updated, eventually, after nearly giving me a heart attack.

Can't wait to hop on back tonight and keep using this thing. My old Podium DD1 served me well for a long time and it will be kept as backup.

Enjoying my DD Extreme, which I also picked up in the sale. End game level of power for me and glad I have my PS compatibility which was important for me. Just need to see what the Podium pedals offer as currently using the basic but more than functional CSL pedals.

 

[VTEC Driver]

My initial impressions and comparison to my old base:

• the GT Wheel - I really like it, pre-mapped buttons are great, but the wheel makes my hands sweat lol and it's the only one that does. And it's not like I grip the wheel hard, either.

Hi, for this point highlighted I noticed the same at the beginning but now it is ok.
This situation brought me to start using some gloves, but when I forget to wear I noticed that I am not sweating anymore.
Maybe it is just matter to be used a little...

 

[rsspyder21]

I felt like wasting money for no reason, so I did a "sideways" upgrade from my PS compatible Podium DD1 to the DD Extreme during the sale Fanatec just had. I mainly wanted the GT wheel since it's what I play most, and to see what Fullforce is all about. I finally got to mount it after sitting on it for a few weeks due to work.

My initial impressions and comparison to my old base:

• I loved the FFB on the Podium DD1, so I was surprised at how much smoother this DD+ is. It's everything detail wise but better, as expected for a newer base. But holy crap this is buttery smooth. Since I played on the Podium and then the DD+ basically back to back the change was so noticeable. Not life changing, but still a very clear difference for the better. Everything is crisper.
• I'm not missing the extra 5 NM peak FFB. I thought I would. DD+ gets very close without it.
• the GT Wheel - I really like it, pre-mapped buttons are great, but the wheel makes my hands sweat lol and it's the only one that does. And it's not like I grip the wheel hard, either.
• QR2 plastic, surprisingly decent, but I got a new metal one on the way to replace it - there is some tiny flex my anal retentiveness won't allow.
• Fullforce - I thought this would be gimmicky, but pleasantly surprised. I kinda like having a volume dial for curb effects in GT since there's no separate in game slider.
• When you start to add more filtering to the base, it starts to feel closer (but not quite) to older Fanatec bases like the Podium DD1. Unfiltered is where you can tell this is all new motor/software. Because of the smoothness, it needs less filtering. The old Podium is great but it's raw. I assume the new Podium is just like this CS DD+ base.
• The worst part was Fanatec's Achilles heel: the FW upgrade. I'm always on high alert during these and of course it struggled to update the FW on this. Nearly thought it had bricked the new base. This is the area we all know as Fanatec users they need the most improvement on. Kind of pathetic they're this bad at this process. But it updated, eventually, after nearly giving me a heart attack.

Can't wait to hop on back tonight and keep using this thing. My old Podium DD1 served me well for a long time and it will be kept as backup.

I am beyond disgusted and stressed by all the reports about the app/software problems. I said a few days ago (posts above) I was on the verge of switching to the new app etc. because I want Full Force. But then I read more of the Fanatec Forum thread on the topic. Holy smokes. Most troubling is how long it takes this company to issue updates and fixes. Maurice the Fanatec rep in that thread saying certain longstanding basic fixes planned to come “this year.” Seriously?

And that wasn’t even in regard to the major problems people are having that are near equivalent to bricking bases. Or legit bricking bases.

I’m back to not knowing what to do. Part of me wants to roll the dice and do it. A bigger part of me says just leave it until more stability and fixes arrive. But how long will that be, if ever?

I am so troubled by this, I’m having thoughts like, I should just abandon Gran Turismo, abandon Fanatec, and switch solely to PC racing and Simucube to do it.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Idk what's going on. Picked up the extreme package on sale in December. Updating was a huge 4 hour pita. I did feel at one point that I had bricked the wheelbase, but ended up using the beta app to get it working. Since then the wheel, ffb and FF has been working near flawlessly.

 

[ApexPending]

Hey, I’m about to get DD extreme, what are the newest settings I can try to get going?

 

[The Crock]

I am beyond disgusted and stressed by all the reports about the app/software problems. I said a few days ago (posts above) I was on the verge of switching to the new app etc. because I want Full Force. But then I read more of the Fanatec Forum thread on the topic. Holy smokes. Most troubling is how long it takes this company to issue updates and fixes. Maurice the Fanatec rep in that thread saying certain longstanding basic fixes planned to come “this year.” Seriously?

And that wasn’t even in regard to the major problems people are having that are near equivalent to bricking bases. Or legit bricking bases.

I’m back to not knowing what to do. Part of me wants to roll the dice and do it. A bigger part of me says just leave it until more stability and fixes arrive. But how long will that be, if ever?

I am so troubled by this, I’m having thoughts like, I should just abandon Gran Turismo, abandon Fanatec, and switch solely to PC racing and Simucube to do it.

Yea I here you. When the FW manager glitched and then I couldn't turn off the base I was like "oh here we go", but unplugging it was enough to get it straightened out and it updated properly afterwards. I've learned never to trust anything Maurice says on Reddit, Fanatec forums etc. for FW updates.

 

[RS60NR]

I am beyond disgusted and stressed by all the reports about the app/software problems. I said a few days ago (posts above) I was on the verge of switching to the new app etc. because I want Full Force. But then I read more of the Fanatec Forum thread on the topic. Holy smokes. Most troubling is how long it takes this company to issue updates and fixes. Maurice the Fanatec rep in that thread saying certain longstanding basic fixes planned to come “this year.” Seriously?

And that wasn’t even in regard to the major problems people are having that are near equivalent to bricking bases. Or legit bricking bases.

I’m back to not knowing what to do. Part of me wants to roll the dice and do it. A bigger part of me says just leave it until more stability and fixes arrive. But how long will that be, if ever?

I am so troubled by this, I’m having thoughts like, I should just abandon Gran Turismo, abandon Fanatec, and switch solely to PC racing and Simucube to do it.

Yeah its a on-going struggle for them w SW & FW and I get your frustration. I figured in a year after the takeover they’d have improved but still got a long ways to go - the app has been a lot more complicated set of issues then they expected - what a mess. Probably another 6 months or more before looking better

Personally I think Full Force adds a lot to GT7 immersion and when its off I notice

THe FW in App 1.2.0.5 addresses pretty much all the issues w Full Force, freezes in GT7 and the new CSL wheel and mostly the Formula V2.5 - no need to go any further at this time

Podium Pedals will be the next FW required for the base to recognize

If you want to try then this would be the version I’d recommend

Had no issues with the install and update but my base has been pretty solid w FW updates so far