Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel stettings

[simplsimon]

No problems at all. However, you do need to recalibrate your wheel and shifter after doing any firmware update. If you have the manual (pdf file) it will walk you through the calibration process. Only takes a minute.

Exactly, The manual is with the firmware download file in PDF. Be sure and fully read it is all you will need to do. You may need to manualy install the (I think it was the USB Driver for me but am unclear as I really just don't remember for sure but it was one of them) driver just before you install the second file. When you first open up the 681 file you should see the update tool and this what you use to do the firmware updates. then just follow the promts. BE SURE AND READ THE MANUAL FULLY OR YOU MAY WISH YOU HAD!!! If you do you should have no issues. Good luck, One other thing I will point out is most get throught the first file fine and when the update tool confirms this it ask for the second file and this is where most get lost at. This is where you may have to istall the driver. Just read the log file that is displayed through this and it says which driver you need. Once you install the driver you then just move along with the second file. Thomas on his blog also said it may be helpfull if you dont get it to work to delete the lof file and simply start agin but I didn't have to do this. I hope I didn't complicate this and I hope this helps you all.

Take Care,

Update:

Sorry guys, I just now noticed a even better post that explains all this a lot better than I did. I will still leave this incase a member misses the one back on page 3 I believe.

 

[Screemer]

I am struggling to find a really good setting for mine, mainly due to the fact that i am not sure what they all do i nthe game LOL. I have Lin set to 10 and Dea to 30 just to get rid of that damn see sawing effect on the straights. Abs is 85, Sen 900, FF 70, and Sho 30. Is it best to use Pro or simulation in the game??

 

[beeferino]

Courtesy of this thread, I've played around with my settings (GT3 RS V2 + ClubSport Pedals). The difference is night and day! Linearity adjustability rocks!

Game settings:
Steering: Professional
Power steering: OFF
Force feedback: 10 (I just leave it at maximum and let the Fanatec take it from there)

Wheel Tuning Settings:
Sen: 540
FF: 60
Sho: 100 (But doesn't seem to have any effect once ABS is on)
Dri: OFF
ABS: 100
Lin: 20
Dea: 0
Spr: 0
Dpr: 2

 

[Screemer]

Courtesy of this thread, I've played around with my settings (GT3 RS V2 + ClubSport Pedals). The difference is night and day! Linearity adjustability rocks!

Game settings:
Steering: Professional
Power steering: OFF
Force feedback: 10 (I just leave it at maximum and let the Fanatec take it from there)

Wheel Tuning Settings:
Sen: 540
FF: 60
Sho: 100 (But doesn't seem to have any effect once ABS is on)
Dri: OFF
ABS: 100
Lin: 20
Dea: 0
Spr: 0
Dpr: 2

Do you not find that u get the see-sawing effect with Dea set to 0, cos i do???

 

[TheTechnobear]

Do you not find that u get the see-sawing effect with Dea set to 0, cos i do???

The Lin setting also gets rid of seesaw, as it reduces sensitivity at centre...
Thomas (fanatec) said don't use dea, I assume as its Lin is better... But he didnt say why

 

[WWR-Basher]

Hello mate, yes i have come over to the dark side! Uploaded the Fanatec Firmware and all was fine last night, but my CSP's are not working now!

Pedals fixed - Totally my bad the cable had come out under the coverplate when i slid the playseat across my office floor!

Had an awesome racing night last night using your settings Dan, tried road, rally, nascar and of course the ring as it gets dark!

Noticed a couple of things though, can anyone assist??

1: My clutch is not working in the game at all?
2: When I brake hard in some cars (CSP) the engine revs?
3: How can iI reassign button functions? They seem to have a number of Logitec wheels in the options menu but no Fanatec?
4: Dan - why are you setting the drift to 1 mate? Does anyone know the physics of the drift settings?

Thanks in advance for any of you that can help me out,

Regards,

Nigel
GT WWR-Basher
Wire To Wire Racing

 

[Delphic Reason]

The Lin setting also gets rid of seesaw, as it reduces sensitivity at centre...
Thomas (fanatec) said don't use dea, I assume as its Lin is better... But he didnt say why

I hate to disagree with Thomas (he is mostly correct on this issue). However, as he is correct about adding Linearity if you lower the steering ratio from 900 (tip: don't adjust the Deadzone without adjusting Linearity, but not necessarily the other way around), if you lower it beyond 540 degrees (say, 360/270/180/etc...) it helps ALOT to add a bit of Deadzone along with the Linearity.

1: My clutch is not working in the game at all?
2: When I brake hard in some cars (CSP) the engine revs?
3: How can iI reassign button functions? They seem to have a number of Logitec wheels in the options menu but no Fanatec?
4: Dan - why are you setting the drift to 1 mate? Does anyone know the physics of the drift settings?

1./2.Try updating the firmware on your pedals.
2.Make sure you choose the "DFP" (Driving Force Pro) setting, in the wheel setup screen. This will fix your problem.
3. Adding "Drift" is sort of like adding some power steering. It helps when you have to steer quickly (ala drifting, or similar fast wheel movements). Releasing a bit of the FFB to allow you to move the wheel a bit faster without fighting the FFB as much.

 

[PzR Slim]

Pedals fixed - Totally my bad the cable had come out under the coverplate when i slid the playseat across my office floor!

Had an awesome racing night last night using your settings Dan, tried road, rally, nascar and of course the ring as it gets dark!

Noticed a couple of things though, can anyone assist??

1: My clutch is not working in the game at all?
2: When I brake hard in some cars (CSP) the engine revs?
3: How can iI reassign button functions? They seem to have a number of Logitec wheels in the options menu but no Fanatec?
4: Dan - why are you setting the drift to 1 mate? Does anyone know the physics of the drift settings?

Thanks in advance for any of you that can help me out,

Regards,

Nigel
GT WWR-Basher
Wire To Wire Racing

To program the buttons in game just change the button allocation in the Logitech Driving Force Pro screen.

 

[Gabkicks]

is it just me, or is the clutch basically an on/off switch in GT5? why didn't gt5 make the clutch progressive >_< it would make the clutch more useful

 

[grizzjeeper]

Back to the let off the throttle completely.. I drive a standard every day and am not driving this any different. Man this has totally ruined the game for me.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Forza is no different. The problem just manifests itself in a different way.

If you don't release the throttle completely before depressing the clutch your engine will rev and most likely bounce off the rev limiter. I didn't notice it at first until I watched the replays.

It annoyed me to no end in Forza until I just retrained myself to release the throttle all the way. Same goes for GT5. It just takes some getting used to.

 

[Sander H]

I drive GT5 with a Fanatec GT3RS v2 and it feels really good, except that I can't feel most of the curbstones through the FFB.

I tested a lot at Tsukuba with the wheel and only feel it occasionally. But when I drive with controller I feel every curb through the DS3 controller. AFAIK there's no option to change these settings. I have tried setting the FFB at 10 ingame and pump up the FFB settings on my wheel but no luck.

Anyone has a tip?

 

[Raitziger]

I drive GT5 with a Fanatec GT3RS v2 and it feels really good, except that I can't feel most of the curbstones through the FFB.

I tested a lot at Tsukuba with the wheel and only feel it occasionally. But when I drive with controller I feel every curb through the DS3 controller. AFAIK there's no option to change these settings. I have tried setting the FFB at 10 ingame and pump up the FFB settings on my wheel but no luck.

Anyone has a tip?

In-game FBB should be under 5 (i use 3). I can feel bumbs just fine with my turbo s.

 

[WWR-Basher]

I hate to disagree with Thomas (he is mostly correct on this issue). However, as he is correct about adding Linearity if you lower the steering ratio from 900 (tip: don't adjust the Deadzone without adjusting Linearity, but not necessarily the other way around), if you lower it beyond 540 degrees (say, 360/270/180/etc...) it helps ALOT to add a bit of Deadzone along with the Linearity.




1./2.Try updating the firmware on your pedals.
2.Make sure you choose the "DFP" (Driving Force Pro) setting, in the wheel setup screen. This will fix your problem.
3. Adding "Drift" is sort of like adding some power steering. It helps when you have to steer quickly (ala drifting, or similar fast wheel movements). Releasing a bit of the FFB to allow you to move the wheel a bit faster without fighting the FFB as much.

Many thanks for your advice mate much appreciated, i thought the CSP firmware was updated when you update the PWTS? Apologies for being a novice, but are you saying there is a different file for the CSP and therfore a different procedure? (I have already updated the latest firmware on the wheel and its working very well now.

Nigel

 

[WWR-Basher]

To program the buttons in game just change the button allocation in the Logitech Driving Force Pro screen.

Cheers Slim, good to see you in here mate,

Regards,

Nigel

 

[Delphic Reason]

Many thanks for your advice mate much appreciated, i thought the CSP firmware was updated when you update the PWTS? Apologies for being a novice, but are you saying there is a different file for the CSP and therfore a different procedure? (I have already updated the latest firmware on the wheel and its working very well now.

Nigel

No problem. Always glad to help.

To answer your question:

http://www.fanatec.de/html/index.php?id=3115&lang=e

You only need to update the FW on your CSP's if you notice problems. Mine have been fine out of the box, but many users have experienced similar problems to what you speak of.

 

[bevo]

Back to the let off the throttle completely.. I drive a standard every day and am not driving this any different. Man this has totally ruined the game for me.

Me too. It hasn't totally ruined it, but it has kept me from using the shifter. Where it kills me is during take offs. I know I'm letting all the way off the throttle, but alot of times it still kicks me into N. Hopefully they come up with another solution for this.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Guys (and girls) it is not that hard to shift in GT5. I haven't had half the problems I hear everyone complaining about. Maybe it's because I was forced to learn to shift a bit different in Forza 3, but I'm not having any trouble.

My experience would be similar to Chillicoke's.... Example:



Just keep practicing, and try to make sure you are releasing the throttle before depressing the clutch (unless you're clutch kicking, i.e "drifting"). It just takes a little getting used to.

 

[TheTechnobear]

Guys (and girls) it is not that hard to shift in GT5. I haven't had half the problems I hear everyone complaining about. Maybe it's because I was forced to learn to shift a bit different in Forza 3, but I'm not having any trouble.

My experience would be similar to Chillicoke's.... Example:

Just keep practicing, and try to make sure you are releasing the throttle before depressing the clutch (unless you're clutch kicking, i.e "drifting"). It just takes a little getting used to.

Though your video shows chillicoke has the same issue... see 1:11

But it's true, it's not that big a problem, though it does vary from car to car (as it dependent on transmission and how fast revs drop)
Eg I had real issues on standing start with a 61 etype jag

also notice on the vid, it helps if you short shift slighty...
(the issue is with all gears but you notice more with 1 to 2 , because your revs are rising faster, i.e. More likely to be a redline)

 

[Schmo]

does anyone have a problem with not getting full throttle? I can see in the HUD that there its a sliver from being 100%, sometimes flutters a little up there. Is there any way to correct this? I wish there was a deadzone for the pedals.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Though your video shows chillicoke has the same issue... see 1:11

hence why I said "similar".

also notice on the vid, it helps if you short shift slightly...
(the issue is with all gears but you notice more with 1 to 2 , because your revs are rising faster, i.e. More likely to be a red-line)

As you said before, this varies drastically depending on the car. Yet I really haven't experienced much in the way of missing shifts, forced neutral, etc... Not anymore than I would in real life anyway (i.e distracted).

I'm using inverted Clubsport Pedals, and Fanatec H-Gate Shifter.

The way you hear people go on about it, you'd think the game is broken and unplayable.

 

[bevo]

hence why I said "similar".



As you said before, this varies drastically depending on the car. Yet I really haven't experienced much in the way of missing shifts, forced neutral, etc... Not anymore than I would in real life anyway (i.e distracted).

I'm using inverted Clubsport Pedals, and Fanatec H-Gate Shifter.

The way you hear people go on about it, you'd think the game is broken and unplayable.

Maybe my problem is that my main vehicle, is a standard in real life. I just can't get myself to be so deliberat in my shifts for the game. I didn't have any trouble with forza 3, but this is driving me nuts. I should be able to rev my car out and shift and not have to worry about tires spinning or let my RPMs drop or having them be reved to high before changing gear.

I started using the paddles for take off and then switching to the H gate after that. The only place it was really killing me was on take offs anyway. I still don't like it though, hopefully they tweak it some and make it a little more forgiving.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Maybe my problem is that my main vehicle, is a standard in real life. I just can't get myself to be so deliberate in my shifts for the game. I didn't have any trouble with forza 3, but this is driving me nuts. I should be able to rev my car out and shift and not have to worry about tires spinning or let my RPMs drop or having them be revved to high before changing gear.

I started using the paddles for take off and then switching to the H gate after that. The only place it was really killing me was on take offs anyway. I still don't like it though, hopefully they tweak it some and make it a little more forgiving.

I imagine the December patch will include some updates to tweak this, and many other issues people seem to be having.

I say stick with it, and you'll get used to it. Watch some vids like Chilli's to get a good idea how the game wants you to shift, rather than how you think you should be shifting.

Personally, I'm hoping for some transmission tweaks (in the December update) as well as hood cams for standards. The shifting isn't my biggest gripe by a country mile.

 

[grizzjeeper]

For those saying the shifting issue isnt a big deal and to concentrate on shifting slower is plain just plain silly. Every game I play with the system works fine except gt5. It seems mine is worse than some of the g25 users. I have 0 interest in playing with padel shifters. I would like to know where I can complain to DP. What a joke. To be called a driving simulator and not even have the fundamentals of shifting right.. poor..

Delphic, your cmments are confusing at best, do you even drive a standard in real life let alone a sports car? I cant imagine grannny shifting my viper. The way the system is now there is NO way to PLAY this game accurately. You cant even burn rubber in 2 gears... it puts the car in neutral EVERY time. Its too bad so many people are not auto purists and dont demand a reasonable simulation. If Shift,forza and every other game works this should too.

 

[jamesaevans]

The Lin setting also gets rid of seesaw, as it reduces sensitivity at centre...
Thomas (fanatec) said don't use dea, I assume as its Lin is better... But he didnt say why

I'm assuming that at "0" setting the steering the relation between steering input and the amount of steering lock is completley linear (stright line) from straight ahead to full lock.

However, as you increase the "Linearity" setting the relation between steering input and the amount of steering lock becomes a curve. Initial steering input is reduced from the straight ahead position, but the steering becomes more responsive as your increase the steering input.

Is this the correct explanation of how the "Linearity" setting works?

James

 

[TheTechnobear]

I'm assuming that at "0" setting the steering the relation between steering input and the amount of steering lock is completley linear (stright line) from straight ahead to full lock.

However, as you increase the "Linearity" setting the relation between steering input and the amount of steering lock becomes a curve. Initial steering input is reduced from the straight ahead position, but the steering becomes more responsive as your increase the steering input.

Is this the correct explanation of how the "Linearity" setting works?

James

Exactly right.

it works very well with reducing sens (to around 500), so you can get precise small movements, but still get full lock (eg for hairpins and recovery 'moments' )

@delphic , yeah im sure they will do something in the patch, as there are so many complaints. But personally, I'm finding h shifter very useable too ( also with clubsport pedals)

One thing I've had some success with, is upgrading trans parts, this can help some cars, again due to making revs drop quicker

 

[Camillo]

Courtesy of this thread, I've played around with my settings (GT3 RS V2 + ClubSport Pedals). The difference is night and day! Linearity adjustability rocks!

Game settings:
Steering: Professional
Power steering: OFF
Force feedback: 10 (I just leave it at maximum and let the Fanatec take it from there)

Wheel Tuning Settings:
Sen: 540
FF: 60
Sho: 100 (But doesn't seem to have any effect once ABS is on)
Dri: OFF
ABS: 100
Lin: 20
Dea: 0
Spr: 0
Dpr: 2

Very nice settings, using them too now with my Fanatec

 

[phil-t]

I drive GT5 with a Fanatec GT3RS v2 and it feels really good, except that I can't feel most of the curbstones through the FFB.

I tested a lot at Tsukuba with the wheel and only feel it occasionally. But when I drive with controller I feel every curb through the DS3 controller. AFAIK there's no option to change these settings. I have tried setting the FFB at 10 ingame and pump up the FFB settings on my wheel but no luck.

Anyone has a tip?

I noticed this too on my PWTS, there is a tiny 'rumble' but it seems to be high speed FFB effect with low amplitude.

In fact, I've noticed that rumble effects seem non-existant, since I used CSP's with the ABS function set to a value, you don't get the automatic 'rumble' effect linked to the throttle position (must be a fanatec thing), I don't get any noticeable rumble motor effects.

In other games, I get the rumble motors tied into engine revs and kerbs and other things that are good with rumble, but on GT5, I only get FFB, and although impressive on some tracks, it's quite devoid on others, coupled with very little kerb/drivetrain effects, setting off under huge wheel spin in an FF Car has almost zero FFB effect, just a minor blip if at all...

 

[WWR-Basher]

No problem. Always glad to help.

To answer your question:

http://www.fanatec.de/html/index.php?id=3115&lang=e

You only need to update the FW on your CSP's if you notice problems. Mine have been fine out of the box, but many users have experienced similar problems to what you speak of.

CSP firmware updated and the clutch and brake problem have gone so thank you for your advice. Took a bit of getting used to as you said, FM3 was no problem but you simply can't be on the throttle at all in GT5 if you want the gear to engage.
You mention you had inverted your CSP's - any pictures , having watched ChilliCoke's video you posted he has done the same and they look awesome.

Many thanks for the assistance,

Nigel

 

[Delphic Reason]

CSP firmware updated and the clutch and brake problem have gone so thank you for your advice. Took a bit of getting used to as you said, FM3 was no problem but you simply can't be on the throttle at all in GT5 if you want the gear to engage.

In FM3 the same problem was there, but as I said, the game dealt with the problem in a different way. Watch a replay after a race of vigorous shifting, and you'll see (er....hear) what I mean. If you don't release the throttle all the way before depressing the clutch the engine over revs and bounces off the rev limiter. It's not very noticeable from the cockpit view, but on replay it's really annoying. Took me a bit to get used to that.

GT5 is just more strict with it's penalty for said action. Instead of over-revving, it just forces neutral (in most cases).

You mention you had inverted your CSP's - any pictures , having watched ChilliCoke's video you posted he has done the same and they look awesome.

Many thanks for the assistance,

Nigel

Pictures, you say?...

How about a complete comprehensive DIY guide?

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129591


Enjoy.