Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel stettings

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I am not only having the issues with the strong torque of the wheel on straits, but the peddles do not seem to be working properly, and occassionally after spinning out the car will not start to move unless I shift into 2nd gear. It will just sit in first revving the engine.

For the peddles problem it mostly seems to be with the breaks. I'm only pressing down on the gas, and on screen it shows just a bit of break is also engaged. This cause my acceleration to slow down, and sometimes even stop as I just maintain speed.

Other times the break will not fully engage when I need it to. For example doing the first License test for starting and stopping, my car never stops in time because the breaks only engage at a 5th of full breaking power.

I popped in Forza 3, and none of these issues are present there. So it's not like my peddles aren't working.

I've same kind of problem with paddles. Always when i press the clutch down and change gear, it brakes a little bit for some reason. And sometimes it brakes by itself even when going on a straight line. The same thing happens also on throttle pedal, its throttling by itself. Really annoying! And for me the braking problem did occur with Forza 3 too, so maybe there is something wrong with the paddles?
 
So, I just bought a PS3 + GT5 today. So far I only did FM3 in my Cockpit with the PWTS...
I think I got the clutch working by pressing the triangle button, but the 6+1 shifter didn't work. What could I do?

I also upgraded my FW to the 681, the new settings are great. I think I found a good setting that works for me, but I still hope for a dedicated Fanatec profile in an update for the game... Thx for all you settings!
 
I've same kind of problem with paddles. Always when i press the clutch down and change gear, it brakes a little bit for some reason. And sometimes it brakes by itself even when going on a straight line. The same thing happens also on throttle pedal, its throttling by itself. Really annoying! And for me the braking problem did occur with Forza 3 too, so maybe there is something wrong with the paddles?

If you are using th clubsport pedals, upgrading the firmware of those might help
 
So, I just bought a PS3 + GT5 today. So far I only did FM3 in my Cockpit with the PWTS...
I think I got the clutch working by pressing the triangle button, but the 6+1 shifter didn't work. What could I do?

I also upgraded my FW to the 681, the new settings are great. I think I found a good setting that works for me, but I still hope for a dedicated Fanatec profile in an update for the game... Thx for all you settings!

did you recalibrate the shifter after the update ?
 
So, the shifter should just work?
I guess you're right then. I didn't recalibrate the shifter. Should have thought of that myself...
 
I'll add my voice to the "calibrate your shifter" club. If it's calibrated, it should work just fine.

I didn't need to press triangle to activate clutch + H-gate. I simply clutched in, shifted into first, and I was off and running. In fact, you can start with the clutch and H-gate, and then switch to the paddle shifters instead, in the middle of a race, and vice-versa.
 
In game setting, steering power assist On or Off preferences?
Trying for the most realistic like everyone else. Not whats easiest. I usualy have it switched off but tried a few laps with it on. I did notice a difference with it being slightly easier with steering corrections etc. What setting do you use and why?:boggled: :cheers:
 
anyone care to share their drift settings, i wish there was a mod for the pwts where you could put a proper sized wheel on like you can with the g25, drifting would be so much easier then.
 
New post by Thomas on his blog.

Fanatec wheel compatibility to GT5



Submitted by Thomas on Fri, 11/26/2010 - 02:53.

The following wheels are fully compatible to GT5:

•911 Carrera wheel
•911 Turbo S wheel
•911 GT3 RS V2 wheel




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------




These wheels need to be upgraded to make it work:

1. 911 Turbo Wheel (Not "S")

In order to make this wheel work you need to use the new RF dongle for the 911 Turbo S wheel which is available in our weshop for 29,95 USD / Euro. (USA / EU)

All customers get the dongle for free within the extended warranty period of 2 years.

Please provide your copy of the invoice to our e-support.


If your wheel is older than 2 years we will offer you a free coupon code of 20 USD / EURO after the purchase of the dongle. Please place a regular order and leave a note in the comments field with the invoice number and date of your original PWT purchase and we will send you an email with your coupon code.





2. 911 GT3RS V1 wheel

This wheel was never advertised to be fully PS3 compatible although it works with several games. Unfortunatly this is not the case for GT5. The good news are that you can upgrade your wheel to V2 and get full PS3 compatibility, more Tuning features and even the big ClubSport shifter paddles.

You can purchase the upgrade kits in our webshop but availability is limited due to the big demand.







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Notes:

•You can map buttons if you choose the profile for the "Driving Force Pro"
•No need to press the trinagle button to activate the clutch
•Set the SEN to 900°. If you want to reduce the angle in order to make faster movements you should increase the Linearity value in order to keep the precise feeling around the center and avoid shaking on straights.
•It is not recommended to add artificial dead zone

All customers with a 911 Turbo (not 's') can get a free upgraded dongle if their wheel is still within the extended two year warranty period. And even if it's older than that they will give you a 20 Euro coupon if you order a new dongle. Really great customer service by Fanatec 👍
 
Im using setting

Rotation between 270deg and Off depending on car
Force Feedback: 60
Shock: 70
ABS: 95 (this is the locking point for me
Drift: 0
Deadzone: 10
Linearity: 0

I have 2 issues,

1. Clutch and shifter doesnt work properly, 1st to second sometimes stays in neutral... anyway to improve this? Heel and toe down shifts dont always work 100% either, 4th to 2nd

2. Cant get in touch with a warranty issue i have with the wheel, no one responds to email at fanatec.... :( Anyone got a contact? *Edit: Since posting this I have had 2 replies* just need to follow a process
 
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So, after the calibration, my Shifter works, thx a lot to all of you!!!
It is a bit annoying, that you have have to be off the gas for it to go into the next gear. I know this is because some guys used it to get better lap times, but I hope this will be improved by a future patch...

Now, I only need Fanatec to get back to me about my rotten pedals... the 2nd one bit the dust it seems. Mostly the brake. The longer you drive, less max brakeforce is possible...
And I have dropouts when using the rf dongle. Wasn't an issue on the PC, but it is on the PS3. Sometimes it happens during the very same corner (i.e. in a license test that you do over and over) which makes me think its more of a PS3 problem...
 
I haven't upgraded the firmware to 681 yet so don't have the dead zone setting available to me. Am worried of it not working something going wrong (bricking the wheel) and have no warranty etc etc. Using Vista 32bit, would an update be considerably risky or risk free. I'd love to have the extra settings to tinker with , does the ffb improved? Should I go for the update, is it worth it:nervous::nervous::nervous::nervous::nervous::nervous:Thanks
I don't have clubsport pedals am using G25 pedals if that should influence decision.
 
I haven't upgraded the firmware to 681 yet so don't have the dead zone setting available to me. Am worried of it not working something going wrong (bricking the wheel) and have no warranty etc etc. Using Vista 32bit, would an update be considerably risky or risk free. I'd love to have the extra settings to tinker with , does the ffb improved? Should I go for the update, is it worth it:nervous::nervous::nervous::nervous::nervous::nervous:Thanks
I don't have clubsport pedals am using G25 pedals if that should influence decision.

i was in a similar position to you but the dead zone thing was killing it for me, I had to update otherwise it would have driven me mad.

I had one heart stopping moment where the update failed the first time but then i tried again and all was ok, i used win xp sp3 32bit, wheel feels better now but the clutch problem is a real bind.

Id say go for it, bare in mind you are essentially flashing part of the system that is overwritable, even if it fails you should be able to overwrite it with other firmware from a different PC if vista fails.. the instructions packaged in the zip were good but if you get stuck pm me.
 
i was in a similar position to you but the dead zone thing was killing it for me, I had to update otherwise it would have driven me mad.

I had one heart stopping moment where the update failed the first time but then i tried again and all was ok, i used win xp sp3 32bit, wheel feels better now but the clutch problem is a real bind.

Id say go for it, bare in mind you are essentially flashing part of the system that is overwritable, even if it fails you should be able to overwrite it with other firmware from a different PC if vista fails.. the instructions packaged in the zip were good but if you get stuck pm me.

Thanks mrlizard:tup: what is the clutch issue you mentioned? I haven't a problem with clutch on my current firmware
 
900 degree mode was feeling a little too sterile for me. Not enough "life"...so I've been using these crack head twitchy settings.

In-game wheel setting set to simulation + 10 FFB.

Sen: 650
FFB: 100
Dri: 2
Lin: 0
Dea: 0
Spr: 3
Dpr: 3
 
Thanks mrlizard:tup: what is the clutch issue you mentioned? I haven't a problem with clutch on my current firmware

Sometimes when you change from 1st to 2nd too quickly the car will stay in neutral even though the shifter is in 2nd. In forza for example if you do this without pressing the clutch in the car will change gear but just damage the engine or clutch etc...

i had the problem before and after the fw update.

I have seen others post about it on the forum, just no resolution yet :(
 
I've come up with some settings that are pretty good to drive and aren't stupid. I'm still working with it but here they are anyway...

Sen: 200
FF: 60/70
Sho: 100
Dri: 1
ABS: 75
Lin: 40
Dea: 0

Everything else on 0. 60 works best on FF but I like it to be as high as possible.

+ hello Basher :D
 
H shifter and clutch issue. I am running latest firmware and have calibrated wheel and shifter. Works perfectly on PC NFS Shift.

GT5 if I shift very slow it works, anything close to a normal speed shift it just goes into neutral. Then the only way it will work again is go back to first. Very annoying and worthless right now. Not impressed. Any thoughts and is everyone having this issue?
 
gear shifting and going into neutral appears to be by design...
It's a penalty for shifting whilst the car is redlining
(someone suggests it's to stop power shifting, but it could be some kind of rev matching penalty perhaps)

This means, the revs must drop before you place in gear...
if you short shift (and don't keep gas down) then you will not get it.

It takes practice too... Just initially keep an eye on revs when changing and you will see what's happening
 
Same problem here, if I have the H shifter on and use the flappers, if I so much as breathe on the clutch it goes into neutral. I don't use the Fanatec h shifter because it's a flimsy plastic thing that feels horrible imo. Can't wait to get the new Fanatec clubsport H shifter so I can heel/toe and use the clutch again, skills are rotting away by the minute, Flappers/sequentials and no clutch blows :indiff:
 
H shifter and clutch issue. I am running latest firmware and have calibrated wheel and shifter. Works perfectly on PC NFS Shift.

GT5 if I shift very slow it works, anything close to a normal speed shift it just goes into neutral. Then the only way it will work again is go back to first. Very annoying and worthless right now. Not impressed. Any thoughts and is everyone having this issue?

That is the issue with the game. The game doesn't allow powershift, so no firmware update will solve this, only game update. Also wheel users with a clutch have this problem, G25, PWTS, GT RSv2.. Only solution right now, is to learn to let off the throttle really fast and then press the clutch and change gears, also if the wheels are spinning it also goes into neutral :-(
 
For those having Neutral and other shifting troubles with the original Fanatec pedals I can add that in my case it was the potentiometers in the Fanatec pedals. NOTE: I have the original all plastic pedals, not the Clubsport pedals.

Here someone discusses the fix:

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/10/3404289/ShowThread.aspx

My situation was unwanted brake input and trouble finding gears as well as staying in gear. GT5 must be a bit more sensitive than Forza 3 because I never had trouble finding and staying in gears. But I did have occasional throttle response that would bog down at times when playing F1 2010 or Forza 3.

I used a little super glue to set each in place before putting gobs of epoxy on each. I recommend letting each one set-up before moving on to the next since they are such delicate little things and it's a difficult working area.

Also, it is very important to let them set 24 hrs before using the pedals. I noticed I had still a touch of brake influence hour or so after gluing them but when allowed to fully cure everything is working great!


Good luck! The hard part is having the patience to wait a day but that will give you a chance to try B-spec which I actually find more enjoyable than I anticipated. It's like owning a race horse.
 
If you are using th clubsport pedals, upgrading the firmware of those might help

Thanks a lot, firmware update solved the pedal problem!

Have anyone problems on drifting with PWTS? I find it almost impossible to drift with it. I can someway control the actual slide, but when you are supposed to straighten, the countersteering of the wheel is so hard that the car immediately spins over. I've tried different settings, but nothing seems to be helping..
 
I've come up with some settings that are pretty good to drive and aren't stupid. I'm still working with it but here they are anyway...

Sen: 200
FF: 60/70
Sho: 100
Dri: 1
ABS: 75
Lin: 40
Dea: 0

Everything else on 0. 60 works best on FF but I like it to be as high as possible.

+ hello Basher :D

Hello mate, yes i have come over to the dark side! Uploaded the Fanatec Firmware and all was fine last night, but my CSP's are not working now!
 
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