FITT RUF Challenge

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What kinds of times are you achieving? I'm still around the mid 2:01s but I can't seem to get a clean lap without bouncing off a high curb or getting caught out by the rear coming around like a pendulum on exit :lol:
I'm at low 2:02's with my default setup, and that was a near perfect lap for me. Little concerning needing to find 2 seconds. @lBt_33 must be using the fuel from his space ship!:dopey:
 
What kinds of times are you achieving? I'm still around the mid 2:01s but I can't seem to get a clean lap without bouncing off a high curb or getting caught out by the rear coming around like a pendulum on exit :lol:

I'm at low 2:02's with my default setup, and that was a near perfect lap for me. Little concerning needing to find 2 seconds. @lBt_33 must be using the fuel from his space ship!:dopey:


Good driving and sure a good setup.

Just a tip : don't go below 43:57 weight distribution, too much front weight kill the balance, that's maybe add stability but a bad stability that low down the car.
 
I'm registered as tuner only for the Sport and SuperSport Classes :)
Got you added to the super sport. We miss understood a previous post thought you wanted to tune the Old school class.

We all have to work within the same rules so no one is at an advantage/disadvantage, the best tuner is the one that can produce the best product within those stipulations.
I totally agree with that.

They already have to spend nearly 1 Million for two BTR's with all upgrades, one with body rigidity installed, one without. Few bucks for wheels can't be issue.



Great tune and then testing it without all tuned parts/settings wouldn't give much of credit or equal treating to tuner.

I understand both base points, but thing what I'm asking is so minor thing to follow, but major tune breaker if tune is made for "alive" suspension.
In this challenge no ~4k for one set of wheel isn't much, but the time you get done testing all the cars swapping wheels for the different color's back to stock etc, if you test say Sport and Old school you would spend enough just on changing wheels to buy another 3400S. Not all of us are making millions of credits a week.
@Pete05 is standing out of the this due to the very fact he can't grind huge amounts of cash to buy the buy the cars with due to no online access for his game so the 4 million needed to buy all the cars and parts is way out of his reach.
And at this time, the only known effect the wheels have is make the car look good, anything else is placebo.
 
Good driving and sure a good setup.
Well, there's me out!:D

Just a tip : don't go below 43:57 weight distribution, too much front weight kill the balance, that's maybe add stability but a bad stability that low down the car.
^^^Agreed, the front end definitely needs some TLC for confidence and stability. A good balance is a great place to start.👍
 
Good driving and sure a good setup.

Just a tip : don't go below 43:57 weight distribution, too much front weight kill the balance, that's maybe add stability but a bad stability that low down the car.
Agreed, the problem I'm having is a mostly due to the BHP peak being at the top of the RPM range so if you try to get on the power before the car has fully straightened up it just overwhelms the tyres. Nothing can be done about it really, mostly a problem because I use automatic transmission, should be easy enough to avoid with an early up shift 👍
 
Well, for the money side of things, I was broke at the start of this challenge. My solution was take SRT Tomahawk to Nurburgring 24H using B-Spec, set him off while I do other things, 30 minutes later and 300k richer without login bonus and repeat. Easy way to do chores and earn that digital coin. I am fine with either option decided though.
 
In this challenge no ~4k for one set of wheel isn't much, but the time you get done testing all the cars swapping wheels for the different color's back to stock etc, if you test say Sport and Old school you would spend enough just on changing wheels to buy another 3400S. Not all of us are making millions of credits a week.
@Pete05 is standing out of the this due to the very fact he can't grind huge amounts of cash to buy the buy the cars with due to no online access for his game so the 4 million needed to buy all the cars and parts is way out of his reach.
And at this time, the only known effect the wheels have is make the car look good, anything else is placebo.
If I enter as tester on event I'll obey tuners wish, if I don't have money/time to do so then I won't enter.
I spent several hundred thousands on wheels when tested what works best, and it wasn't just checking quickly and decision made. Have switched back and forth between four different wheels so many times, four sets of tires managed on my "final round", and every time I had same placebo what turns scale on final choice. But maybe continuing this somewhere else, I have thread waiting for this already.
 


Starting at :42, especially at :46-:48. I just ended up taking a different line cause changing things made the car slower elsewhere. Sitting in a good place right now.

That's from an older FITT event ^

Yeah the tail does like to break loose on the exit (46-48), I've not found a way around that one yet apart from waiting until the car has settled before getting on the throttle. Not noticed it being particularly bumpy on the way in though, have you lowered the ride height significantly?
 
Yeah the tail does like to break loose on the exit (46-48), I've not found a way around that one yet apart from waiting until the car has settled before getting on the throttle. Not noticed it being particularly bumpy on the way in though, have you lowered the ride height significantly?

I didn't mean it broke loose, traction is good on accel - It's just that the car is moving around quite a lot as you're decelerating into the corner (In the vid above at :48 you can see it hop around). Yes I have lowered the car to a bit less than the halfway point for both sliders. I used to take the corner from left->right, but now I just stick to the right kerb.
 
I didn't mean it broke loose, traction is good on accel - It's just that the car is moving around quite a lot as you're decelerating into the corner (In the vid above at :48 you can see it hop around). Yes I have lowered the car to a bit less than the halfway point for both sliders. I used to take the corner from left->right, but now I just stick to the right kerb.
Try raising it a bit, give the suspension more room to work and it should suck the bumps up better 👍 The LSD settings are quite important in this car, does a really good job of keeping the rear end in check
 
Put me down for the RUF Super Sport Class.

Me and the RGT are getting along just fine...:cool:

Need to figure out how to tune out the bumpiness in one part of the track though.
I'm guessing tuner for Super Sport? or tester as well?
 
Lap 1:59:550 at Nurburgring GP/F using the Öhlins Road&Track suspension and Porsche factory 996 GT3 Track alignement. The LSD isn't the replica of the real one, only suspension.

If that's the 996 GT3 Cup alignment, you are running huge camber :eek: I got that suspension made too when I made the GT4 :D I only got 2:02s on 1st lap, and I wasted good half second alone on the 1st turn and the esses ( before 1st sector - going wide ), then a slow up hill esses as well as last chicane :lol:, rarely I drive there. It had 41/59 distribution.

You might want to to try the Ohlins R&T springs combo for the 996 Turbo S, lower rear rate, which may help stabilize the car.

If you want, I can give you the specs for 996 GT3 Cup LSD ( lock%, including preload ), springs ( too high though 240Nmm and 260Nmm if not mistaken )and gear ratios ( which I used ), the car tops out at 255-260kmh at Nurb GP/F.

2nd sector ( right after the hairpin ) going up hill, is at 1:05s on the 2:02s lap. I can see at least 1:04s sector time.

Be sure when you test the tune to have the track grip set to real :D
 
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If that's the 996 GT3 Cup alignment, you are running huge camber :eek: I got that suspension made too when I made the GT4 :D I only got 2:02s on 1st lap, and I wasted good half second alone on the 1st turn and the esses ( before 1st sector - going wide ), then a slow up hill esses as well as last chicane :lol:, rarely I drive there. It had 41/59 distribution.

You might want to to try the Ohlins R&T springs combo for the 996 Turbo S, lower rear rate, which may help stabilize the car.

If you want, I can give you the specs for 996 GT3 Cup LSD ( lock%, including preload ), springs ( too high though 240Nmm and 260Nmm if not mistaken )and gear ratios ( which I used ), the car tops out at 255-260kmh at Nurb GP/F.

2nd sector ( right after the hairpin ) going up hill, is at 1:05s on the 2:02s lap. I can see at least 1:04s sector time.

Be sure when you test the tune to have the track grip set to real :D

Not the GT3 Cup but the 996 GT3/GT2 factory alignement, I've seen the high camber setup and will test it soon. As for the rear springs rate it's ok, I except the car to begin to understeer if I lower this value. Thanks for the proposition, I'm curious to see it :D

And the 996 GT3 road car has 40:60 weight distribution.
 
Not the GT3 Cup but the 996 GT3/GT2 factory alignement, I've seen the high camber setup and will test it soon. As for the rear springs rate it's ok, I except the car to begin to understeer if I lower this value. Thanks for the proposition, I'm curious to see it :D

And the 996 GT3 road car has 40:60 weight distribution.

I think my car had 40/60, my mistake, it weighs 1240kg. Just did 30 minutes play, testing Reventon and Enzo build at Midfield. Switching wheels on the Enzo with variety of style, KMC, RAYS, Boyd, PDI and OZ :lol:
 
Here is my first entry for this event. It is tuned a little on the loose side so advise slightly earlier braking and a modicum of throttle control.

Link to original post in my garage here

RUF Old School Class

RUF CTR "Yellow Bird" '87


550PP
535 BHP
1100kgs
Weight Distribution 43:57

Car paint scheme
Body Colour - GT METALLIC 007-W
Brake Calipers – GT METALLIC 007-W

Sports Soft Tyres

NO Oil Change
Improved Body Rigidity Installed

Standard Wheel Size – American Racing VINTAGE TORQ THRUST

FC Suspension
F/R
90/100
8.00/12.00
7/6
5/7
2/5
0.6/1.0
-0.08/0.06

Racing Brake Kit
7/8

FC Transmission
(Reset to default)
Set final gear to 5.000
Set max speed to 137mph
1st 2.425
2nd 1.872
3rd 1.501
4th 1.221
5th 1.017
6th 0.875
Set final gear to 3.610

FC LSD
8/10/24
Triple Plate Clutch

Set power limiter to 99.3%
Engine Tuning Stage 2

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Bonnet

Ballast - Set 36kgs to Position -50

Tuned with ABS 1 only as per FITT regulations

yb87img1-jpg.500769

yb87img2-jpg.500770

yb87img3-jpg.500771
 
Here is my second entry for this event. Enjoy. :)

Link to original post in my garage is here

RUF Supersport Class

RUF RGT ‘00


560PP
539 BHP
1185kgs
Weight Distribution 44:56

Paint scheme
Body – Medium Purple Mica
Brake Calipers – Giallo Corona

Sports Soft Tyres

NO Oil Change
Standard wheel size – Rays 57Xtreme
Improve Body Rigidity Installed

FC Suspension
F/R
70/75
6.40/15.60
5/4
4/7
2/5
0.4/0.8
-0.05/0.04

Racing Brake Kit
5/6

FC Transmission
(Reset to default)
Set final gear to 4.500
Set max speed to 137mph
1st 3.575
2nd 2.572
3rd 1.860
4th 1.421
5th 1.146
6th 0.965
Set final gear to 3.460

FC LSD
10/14/18
Triple Plate Clutch

Set power limiter to 97.5%
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Intake Tuning


Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Bonnet (Body Colour)

Ballast – Set 33kgs to Position -50

Tuned with ABS 1 only as per FITT regulations

rgt00img1-jpg.500772

rgt00img2-jpg.500773

rgt00img3-jpg.500774
 
Here is my first entry for this event. It is tuned a little on the loose side so advise slightly earlier braking and a modicum of throttle control.

Link to original post in my garage here

RUF Old School Class

RUF CTR "Yellow Bird" '87


550PP
535 BHP
1100kgs
Weight Distribution 43:57

Car paint scheme
Body Colour - GT METALLIC 007-W
Brake Calipers – GT METALLIC 007-W

Sports Soft Tyres

NO Oil Change
Improved Body Rigidity Installed

Standard Wheel Size – American Racing VINTAGE TORQ THRUST

FC Suspension
F/R
90/100
8.00/12.00
7/6
5/7
2/5
0.6/1.0
-0.08/0.06

Racing Brake Kit
7/8

FC Transmission
(Reset to default)
Set final gear to 5.000
Set max speed to 137mph
1st 2.425
2nd 1.872
3rd 1.501
4th 1.221
5th 1.017
6th 0.875
Set final gear to 3.610

FC LSD
8/10/24
Triple Plate Clutch

Set power limiter to 99.3%
Engine Tuning Stage 2

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Bonnet

Ballast - Set 36kgs to Position -50

Tuned with ABS 1 only as per FITT regulations

yb87img1-jpg.500769

yb87img2-jpg.500770

yb87img3-jpg.500771
A "little" on the loose side??? In 2 out of 3 of your pictures, you've got some oversteer going on. You even have loads of tire smoke from the rear wheels in the 1st one. Are you trying to scare the testers?👍
:lol:
 
A "little" on the loose side??? In 2 out of 3 of your pictures, you've got some oversteer going on. You even have loads of tire smoke from the rear wheels in the 1st one. Are you trying to scare the testers?👍
:lol:
Just letting them know in advance what they are in for. :) I always thought this is how Porches were supposed to look when hooning around on the open track.. ;)
 
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@shaunm80 linked up sir.
Man you and "drift" tuned hopped up 911's.....:banghead:
I blame it on too much Drive Club... It has changed my driving style slightly.. :lol: Nah, not really changed much at all. Some of those pictures are old pictures from the first time I tried to tune up this crazy yellow bird. It isn't quite as smokey as it used to be. Just a little loose.. You testers will see soon enough.
 
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