Formula GT - need help!

Polyphony001

Polyphony001

1,574
I find the final Pro league championshop (the one with 363 laps of race in it) called Formula GT on my game.
I'm playing the PAL version of GT3 with the Polyphony 001 (as the 002 is rubbish), and this equates to the F090/S (790hp when you get it, or 829 I think max). I'm really struggling - i've tried loads of setups from gtvault.com but just cannot seem to find an effective solution that makes the car handle well but requre the same amount of pitstops as the opponents! :mad: If anyone can help me then please reply! I've almost finished the game!
 
Hello, and welcome, if it hasn't been said before.

It may be difficult to sweep the series, but you can win the championship. I ran a couple of races ahead of time in really fast cars to guarantee gold on those races before I started the series itself. I used a Turbo-4 GT One to make sure that the Test Curse was gold, and I pre-ran the Laguna Seca in a F094/S (P001) race because that is a tough one.

Then I started a series race in the F094/H (like the P001, but not quite as fast). During the series race I skipped the test course (which saved the oil a little) but I reran Laguna and won.

Concentrate on smooth driving, and minimize wheelspin. Brake a little early rather than sliding into turns. Use TCS of 3 or so if it helps, and stay in upper gears. All of these things will help you get more life out of your tires, but you may never match the pit schedule the fast AI use. Certainly you won't at Monaco for the finale. But smoother laps will probably give you faster lap times anyway, so you can sneak in one extra stop.

You may also try reducing the rear toe out to -1.5 or so, which will help reduce rear tire wear. reduce rear camber a little bit as well to compensate, and run full downforce up front with not-quite-full downforce at the back.

Hope this helps.
 
Originally posted by Polyphony001
I find the final Pro league championshop (the one with 363 laps of race in it) called Formula GT on my game.
I'm playing the PAL version of GT3 with the Polyphony 001 (as the 002 is rubbish), and this equates to the F090/S (790hp when you get it, or 829 I think max). I'm really struggling - i've tried loads of setups from gtvault.com but just cannot seem to find an effective solution that makes the car handle well but requre the same amount of pitstops as the opponents! :mad: If anyone can help me then please reply! I've almost finished the game!
Click to expand...

The Polyphony001 is analogous to the F094/S - 790hp when you win it, 829hp after an oil change, 779hp on dirty oil, 813hp after an oil change after the run-out period.

I usually run my F1 cars in races on stock settings, but alter the gearbox to suit the course using the Tranny Trick:
1. Move Final fully right.
2. Move AutoGear fully right then fully left (there's a reason, but it's dull).
3. Set Final drive to suit the track. Only ever adjust Final Drive from now on.

The P001 will require a stop every 6 laps on almost every track - but it's markedly quicker than the slughead AIs - even on Monaco at the end.
 
Okay, what does the tranny trick do?
I've managed to do The Grand valley race ok (albeit with only 7 seconds lead at the end) but am now pondering over the best ways to get a good result in Super speedway. Any ideas?
 
The tranny trick is based on an oddity of the way the game sets the gear ratios in the autoset. It gives you a nice, tightly-spaced transmission, but with workable ratios. It's very important that you only adjust the FINAL DRIVE after doing the trick, or it gets screwed up. It's proven to give the fastest acceleration setup.

Are you in the middle of the series race? If so, reduce your downforce all the way, lower the car all the way, and set toe to zero at both ends. Then run a qualifying lap and adjust your final drive until the car is about 500-750 rpm BELOW redline when you are driving alone, wide open on the straights. This will give you some headroom to pick up speed by drafting, without hitting the rev limiter. Write down or save your old setup because you will definitely want to go back to it after.

If you are not in the series race, take the Viper GTS, Escudo, GT One, 787B, or whatever your fastest car with maxiumum horsepower (1000+) and run it in that to pre-gold the race.
 
Well, im in the series race, but I never seem to be able to control the car that well with minimum downforce, and could u suggest a value for final drive wothout me having to experiment too long? I'm a busy person at the moment
 
I don't have the final settings written down for the test course race, so I can't.

Also, being the long banked oval it is, downforce will only slow you down here. There is very minimal turning so control should not be a problem.
 
Either way, it's a big oval, and it's banked. You'll have to lift on the last turn to avoid understtering into the wall a bit, but otherwise, just go to it and don't worry about tire wear.
 
Originally posted by Polyphony001
I'm a busy person at the moment
Click to expand...

And of course we aren't...

The top-right corner of the gear ratio graph corresponds to a little over 200mph (320km/h). Set it to about 210mph (so the top of the little yellow line for 6th is just off the chart) It won't change much, course-to-course, except at Cote, where you won't top 165mph.

When I said "stock", I meant that I set downforce to maximum, ASM off (always - in any car) and TCS to 1. You'll pit every six laps ish and win by a lap a race, easily.
 
Originally posted by Polyphony001
Well, im in the series race, but I never seem to be able to control the car that well with minimum downforce, and could u suggest a value for final drive wothout me having to experiment too long? I'm a busy person at the moment
Click to expand...

Now that you mention it... I'm kinda busy too... I suppose everyone is these days...

For Super Speedway:

If you did the tranny trick that famine suggests... a final of 3.5 is will get you to redline by the end of the straights and allow for room to draft up if you are running full downforce.

If you set your springs to 10/10
ride height to 65/65
shock bound to 3/6
shock rebound to 3/6
camber angle to 2/1
toe angle to 0/0

brakes where you are comfortable

lsd to 10/20/10 (my preference is 5/5/5 or 5/10/5)

tranny trick as above

asm/tcs 0/1

Running full downforce with an automatic or manual transmission you should be able to run out easy low 25.xxx and not have to lift for the corners until around lap 7-8 as long as you are smooth and consistent. Don't forget to draft whenever possible and don't make sudden turns... make 'em smooth... run as many as you can before pitting and you should have an easy win.

phattboy
 
BTW: It has generally been my experience that winning at the F-1 races is less about setup tricks and more about smooth... smooth... smooth...

It has less to do with super fast speed and more to do with consistent, non-sudden moves... did I mention "smoothness"?

Also, I have discovered over time that I couldn't get rid of tire wear problems really until you run a manual transmission in the F-1 cars. With automatic, the game/tranny drives the car... you're just along for the ride... IE: you spend all your time reacting to the way the tranny shifts and whips you around rather than focusing on the driving. If you do run an automatic... set your gearing final waaaayyyy down to around 3.00 to 3.25 and give up the quick acceleration to gain smoother.

IMHO

phattboy
 
Originally posted by phattboy
For Super Speedway:
[...]
toe angle to 0/0
Click to expand...
Er, no.

You're going to need some negative toe angle on Super Speedway. Otherwise your outside tires are going to wear much faster than your inside tires. I would try something more like -1.0 in the front and -2.0 in the back (Try it out in qualifying. It might need minor tweaking but I think that would be close). I would also use a lot of downforce. It helps a lot with the tighter of the two turns.

Toe angle 0/0 is only for Test Course in an F1 car.
 
Originally posted by phattboy
BTW: It has generally been my experience that winning at the F-1 races is less about setup tricks and more about smooth... smooth... smooth...
Click to expand...
Careful setup helps a lot. Toe angle, gearing and down force make the biggest differences. Toe angle makes a big difference because of how it affects tire wear. You can often get an extra lap or two per set of tires by optimizing it properly for each course. Gearing and downforce should be obvious but they also need to be tuned for each course.

I've won the F1 Championship 10/10 with the F094/S, F090/S, F686/M and F688/S.

When I did it with the F094/S, I lapped the field in every race except Test Course. Most of them twice. I lapped the field three times at Cote d'Azur.

With the F686/M, I also lapped the field on Test Course as well as multiple lapping of the field on most of the others.

The F090/S is a little tough on the test course. Even with good optimizations, you'll need to do some careful and well timed drafting to beat the AI F686/M.
 
Originally posted by overpowered
Careful setup helps a lot. Toe angle, gearing and down force make the biggest differences. Toe angle makes a big difference because of how it affects tire wear. You can often get an extra lap or two per set of tires by optimizing it properly for each course. Gearing and downforce should be obvious but they also need to be tuned for each course.

I've won the F1 Championship 10/10 with the F094/S, F090/S, F686/M and F688/S.

When I did it with the F094/S, I lapped the field in every race except Test Course. Most of them twice. I lapped the field three times at Cote d'Azur.

With the F686/M, I also lapped the field on Test Course as well as multiple lapping of the field on most of the others.

The F090/S is a little tough on the test course. Even with good optimizations, you'll need to do some careful and well timed drafting to beat the AI F686/M.
Click to expand...

@overpowered

Well look at you all dressed up in big brothers clothes...:P

phattboy


@Polyphony001

Looks like you have choices to make... Interesting thing about requesting setup info is that you will get lots of answers and many that differ. Best thing is try and see which ideas work best for your driving style and then "tweak" them in for the "fit".
 
The AI will last a lot longer between pits, than you can.
I first thought to drive "safer" in hopes to reduce tire wear, thus, attempting to match the AI pitstops. That didnt work.

I then found, that I could win relatively easily by getting out in front right away. Just go ALL OUT early. When you get separation from the pack, they seem to be less aggressive on your tail, and by pitting on orange tires, you should be able to take the win.
 
well guys thanks for all this help, I never expected so many responses, I'm about to try Super Speedway following your advice and i'll let you know how I get on. By the way I'm playing the PAL version of GT3 (as I think i already stated) so there's no F686/Ms or whatever the other fast ones are, just Polyphony 001 and Polyphony 002. Oh, and Km/h not mph :-( Stupid considering in england we still use mph. Oh well :confused:
 
The Polyphony 001 (which is identical to the F094/S, but with a slightly different nose) IS the fast one. The F686/M is merely the most powerful F1, so quickest on Test Course and Super Speedway (although it's not that far away from the P001 to be honest).
 
wow, thanks to your help i managed to do super speedway in 23:40:398 and I lapped every opponent (even the slow 002s) five times. Now on to another race... :P
 
i had a go at rome with the same setup as Super speedway but mucked it up so I quit that race and am about to start again. The setup did seem to work quite well, though.
 
I don't want to seem obvious here, nor do I want to sound "lippy"... It is just that, if the setup seemed to be working well and (as you say) you mucked it up, they I guess I would say, "Whoops..." and give it another go and try not to muck it up this time :D

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt, don't wanna go back cause I didn't like it all that much. Can't tell you how many times I've "mucked" it up. :D

phattboy
 
You'll definitely need to set it back more like what you ran BEFORE Super Speedway. Did you happen to save the setup or note it down like I suggested?

The setup everyone recommended was for oval tracks where turning is minimal and top speed is key. Otherwise, you'll need to go back to the high-downforce and other suspension settings.

Try this: go to tke "Change Parts" screen, even though you can't change anything really. Go to the Suspension tab, and click the selected racing suspension button twice.

This may return the suspension to the default vaules. Downforce you'll need to do on your own.
 
First of all, you need to tell us whether you are using automatic or manual transmission (at least I would like to know if I am going to be able to give a decent answer).

Then it also might help if you could be a little more specific... As in what your setup is now and what it is you don't like about it in your driving style. Then we could maybe be more specific on some things to try to help you "tweak" it to better suit you.

The setup I gave you works good for me for about any track with minor mods to downforce and tranny. That is to say it suits my driving style. On the other hand, others are bound to be different as would your driving style. However, if you have a particular issue such as the tail end is too loose or you prefer more understeer in the way you corner or something like that, then if you articulate what it is, maybe we can suggest some things in specific to try.

Although, I have to repeat... it is more about smooth... smooth... smooth... than it is about setup. As Famine originally suggested, he usually runs his F1 with stock setup and modifys tranny to suit track. That means, with good, consistent, smooth driving, you can easily win most all the F1 series "right out of the box."

phattboy
 
OK guys i managed Rome circuit, and decided to skip Test course (really couldnt be bothered). I'm now stuck on laguna seca, which a lot of people say is hard. I'll give you my current setup if you like:

The important thing is that i always use Auto transmission on long races, including formula GT.
I do sometimes use the hold trick to get an extra kick, but not always.
Springs: 10/10
Rude Height: 65/65
Dampers: threes on the front, sixes on the rear.
Camber: 2/1
Toe: Nil
Brakes: 15/13 and im ok with them like that
Trans: Tranny trick Final 3.500
LSD: 15/50/30
Downforce: 1/1.5
ASM: 0 TCS: 1

OK well thats my entire spec. What im not happy about is that i seem to lose control at the S-bend a lot and also seem to often spin on the final corner. However, i am very untolerant of understeer.
 
Get more tolerant of it then, putting your TCS up to 2 might help conserve your tyres a bit more but if your cars sset to oversteer you will lose control more easily on downhill track sections and with the Corkscrew being quite steep you need to sort that out.
 
ok, well an update is that on the 6th lap of the race the car ceases to move forwards, only sideways. This is obviously no use as I can't pit every five laps, I cant make up the time. :mad:
 
I had that problem, I was wearing mytyres out far too quick to stand a chance of winning, you need to try to be a smooth as you can, and minimise the wheelspin.
 

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