GT Sport Bug Report Thread

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vcx
I think this is a bug because i remember when i was B-B in past and passed the 30.000 mark my rating was A-B so this is not about SR rating. Beleive or not but it won't change if ı get SR rating S. It will still stands on B DR. Polyphony help me please if you see :(

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Above picture my past rankings before this issue. As you see I was B-A but after 30.000 I was at A-A so SR rating doesn't effect DR. This is a bug. I am B-B but I have to be A-B. Unfortunately I guess after update system failure happened and here is the bug.

Your DR will never go above your SR regardless of points, thats the way it has always been, that is not a bug. The image you show tells us you were DR-B SR-A, not DR-A SR-B.
 
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vcx
I think this is a bug because i remember when i was B-B in past and passed the 30.000 mark my rating was A-B so this is not about SR rating. Beleive or not but it won't change if ı get SR rating S. It will still stands on B DR. Polyphony help me please if you see :(

View attachment 973322

Above picture my past rankings before this issue. As you see I was B-A but after 30.000 I was at A-A so SR rating doesn't effect DR. This is a bug. I am B-B but I have to be A-B. Unfortunately I guess after update system failure happened and here is the bug.
Your picture shows exactly what we have been telling you. You were DR B/SR B, then DR B/SR A, then DR A/SR A.

It is not a bug. It is working exactly as intended. When your DR score goes up enough to cross into the next DR grade up, it will not advance if it will exceed your SR grade.

Players can have an SR grade below their DR grade, but only if their SR has gone down after their DR went up. If SR goes too far below DR (2.5 levels), it resets your DR to match your SR.
 
Hey....Since last update I:

1. Cannot access most of my liveries to tweak them in Livery Editor. I get missing decals error and them I am unable to see or access any of my decals or the usual community collection of decals.

2. Loading times are ridiculous now.

3. It no longer goes into Rest Mode if you leave it on. It does some kind of crash. Wehen you restart, it gives you errors, makes you do some kind of rebuilding data base thing and lastly, says "your external hard drive is corrupted" so then you have to repair it.

Is there anyone else dealing with this? Is there a fix?
 
For some reason, when I create a livery for my 911 (991) the game can’t seem to apply the livery. Anyone have a solution to this?
 
For some reason, when I create a livery for my 911 (991) the game can’t seem to apply the livery. Anyone have a solution to this?
Very few people would be able to come up with a solution to "some reason". Describe what you're seeing, and what error messages are popping up, and someone can probably help.

Better still, as the PS4 records everything all the time anyway, make a video and post it.
 
Very few people would be able to come up with a solution to "some reason". Describe what you're seeing, and what error messages are popping up, and someone can probably help.

Better still, as the PS4 records everything all the time anyway, make a video and post it.
I will try to make a video but it won’t be that easy, I don’t have a USB to transfer the video, I might try using this phone, but I doubt it would be easy.

So I’m making a new livery as usual, I do the rims and the paint, I go to save my progress with the livery, the thing saves, but it won’t apply on the car. I’ve created a livery for this exact car before, everything was all fine before update 1.62.
 
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No error messages show up, I click cancel upload, and then try again. I've done it 5 times and no changes have applied.
 
I am unable to complete mission 7 on nurburgring... The mission begins to load and gets to 'preparing...' and stays there. Music also stops but i can still move around the screen and watch the official video... Does this for missions 7-2 amd 7-8 so far... Doesnt matter which car i choose. Any ideas?
 

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I am unable to complete mission 7 on nurburgring... The mission begins to load and gets to 'preparing...' and stays there. Music also stops but i can still move around the screen and watch the official video... Does this for missions 7-2 amd 7-8 so far... Doesnt matter which car i choose. Any ideas?
That's very strange, it works on my playstation, what did you try to solve the problem?
 
:( its frustrating to say the least..
Could it be that there is a problem loading one of the cars?
Im trying to get my hands on a PS5 at the moment, so i will try again once i have one

Not that I am 100% guru but are you trying to use a downloaded livery on the car your selecting for the event?

I did have a similar problem once where the issue wasn't so much the event loading but the livery design on the car I was using failed to render/load correctly and thus didn't proceed the race.

Will check to see if my game loads next time I am on just to see if I can replicate the issue.
 
Not that I am 100% guru but are you trying to use a downloaded livery on the car your selecting for the event?

I did have a similar problem once where the issue wasn't so much the event loading but the livery design on the car I was using failed to render/load correctly and thus didn't proceed the race.

Will check to see if my game loads next time I am on just to see if I can replicate the issue.
I entered a daily race the other day and the loading screen froze on the pit box shot while preparing the race. Had to restart the game. One thing I noticed was that the custom livery on my car did not load. This might be connected somehow. It only happened twice since I started playing.
 
On Daily Race B, my brother got Extreme Wets put on his Ford GT instead of the Racing Hards (it went as well as you'd expect, 12 seconds off the pace)
 
On Daily Race B, my brother got Extreme Wets put on his Ford GT instead of the Racing Hards (it went as well as you'd expect, 12 seconds off the pace)

Not really a bug, the game has never changed tyres automatically though it probably should so if you are on wet weather tyres it will still select those in the tyre menu.
 
Not really a bug, the game has never changed tyres automatically though it probably should so if you are on wet weather tyres it will still select those in the tyre menu.
It didn't give him the option to change the tyres pre race or in a pitstop
 
Dragon Tail - Seaside II

Race Replay - switching between cars when in cockpit view causes view to change to another perspective after switching. It only occurs when switching between drivers when in cockpit view. Other views are fine.
 
Hi, I'm new here.

I've recently started playing online in GTS and doing Daily Races for the platinum trophy. However, there's a strange thing occuring:

Each race, everyone else but me just stays on the grid after the start and are ghosts, I'm just racing time (for 20+ races I've raced real cars maybe twice). It's not a problem in on itself, but maybe, other players DO race me as normal? Because I get some angry messages after the race, calling me a cheat, running them off track and so on (however, my SR is unaffected by any of these supposed fouls).

So I'm wondering - is there something wrong with my connection, which makes me unable to see other players on the track, but they see me (as a wrecking ball plowing through), or are there so many sore losers online in GTS?

And, what can I do to race actual people on track?
 
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So I'm wondering - is there something wrong with my connection, which makes me unable to see other players on the track, but they see me (as a wrecking ball plowing through)
Yes.

Do an internet connection test on your PS4 (settings, network, internet connection test) and post the result here.
 
NAT Type 2, speeds at 7-11 Mbps DL / 4.5-5 Mbps UP.

When I test connection in-game, i get around 80% in all parameters, with ping around 40ms.
 
NAT Type 2, speeds at 7-11 Mbps DL / 4.5-5 Mbps UP.

When I test connection in-game, i get around 80% in all parameters, with ping around 40ms.
Wireless, by any chance?
 
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Unless it's totally impractical to wire it in, wire it in. Usually it's impractical to wire it in because you're a huge distance and some walls away from the router, and that's exactly the kind of situation where you want it wired in - your wireless signal is only good for a hundred feet line of sight; shove some walls in there and that becomes 30 feet very quickly, and if your central heating boiler or microwave are anywhere near being between your console and the router you can forget it. You'll be able to stream films and use internet fine, because of buffering, but when it comes to tracking the relative positions of 16 cars at 100mph in real time, you've got no chance.

Do all of this:

So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.

Step 1 - Wire it in
A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.

Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.
In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.
If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...
For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...
Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.
On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.
For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".

As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222

On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...

Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.

If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!

Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.

Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.

Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.

You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.

Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.

It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...
 
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My Wi-Fi router is in the attic directly above my room, so I'm getting +95% signal strength on 5Ghz band. I also tried setting DMZ and static IP, but it didn't seem to do much. I guess my best bet is wired, then.

Thanks for the help!
 
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I also tried setting DMZ and static IP, but it didn't seem to do much.
Generally speaking, it won't seem to do much - you certainly won't see better numbers on your bandwidth and ping (well... maybe ping, but there's a lot going on between console and server that may affect it). What it does is make your connection as stable as it can be, unaffected by other devices hopping on and off the network or your router's firewall stopping packets. It makes a difference.

Definitely wire it in if you can. A nice 18-inch, 6mm+ drill bit is your friend :D
 
What I meant by "didn't seem to do much" - I've done few more races, again - seemingly alone on the track, and again - dissed by others :banghead:

Already ordered the cable. If it won't work, and it's something else, like ISP issue - at least my conscience will be (a bit) calmer, knowing that I did what I could to not mess up other people races.
Thanks again, and a Happy New Year! :gtpflag:
 
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