GTPFIA Touring Car World Cup Round 1 4/4/12

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jav
  • 591 comments
  • 29,047 views
Status
Not open for further replies.
Tao
I hav to say Pipi that this series is a challenge.But so far FF,4WD & FR's hav all seen podium finishes depending on track.The lessons in tunning, consistency ,limitations & strength awareness will carry over when we race faster cars in GT1or2.The more familiar racers we have the better race quality overall.
Concider this season a practice one to learn from.Win,lose or crash. WE NEED YOU! (tears in my eyes, lump in my throat )
Click to expand...

I don't care if i win or i lose, but i want a change to make good races, just that!!

Sure, in the first 6 is one Fr car, and is Veloci the next is Fresh with points in all races, What a Challenge!!!!

PS: And you, ronin and Owens don't make all races, lol

BMW, Mag Monza 1,5 Sec for you, and others Fr worst than BM
BMW Me Nurb, 2 sec for Owen, and others Fr worst than BM
BMW Me GV 0,6 sec for Yera, and others Fr worst than BM

This is a challenge for you, for me is NOT!!!
 
Last edited:
pipi_r6
I don't care if i win or i lose, but i want a change to make good races, just that!!

Sure, in the first 6 is one Fr car, and is Veloci the next is Fresh with points in all races, What a Challenge!!!!

PS: And you, ronin and Owens don't make all races, lol

BMW, Mag Monza 1,5 Sec for you, and others Fr worst than BM
BMW Me Nurb, 2 sec for Owen, and others Fr worst than BM
BMW Me GV 0,6 sec for Yera, and others Fr worst than BM

This is a challenge for you, for me is NOT!!!
Click to expand...

We still need you! lol
 
You have to realize that there are other cars that are dominant. The problem is, they are dominant in their own respects. The RSX has mondo top speed since it has the best power-to-weight ratio, so it was going to win at Monza almost certainly.

Next was a toss-up between the Imprezas and the Evos, but since the imprezas got their power taken away and the evos gained power (were originally restricted to 325, but got reinstated at 335 for whatever reason) the evo would win at the technical track in good hands like owen's.

GV was a shoe-in for the CRZ as we had already seen its speed early in the season in a test room at GVE. With its fairly high straight-line speeds and good cornering plus FWD stability.


That being said, The range of cars are fairly close between each car, but the entire spectrum at a single track is fairly wide. I'm noticing this series has a lot of compromises with the cars, some monsters in corners but slow on straights, and others completely opposite. The problem is the middle cars, that are not really stellar in either. Those cars take A LOT more focus and determination to get a good spot in the finishing order since they have no real advantage. The cars, though, would be then majority of FRs and their advantage is useless in this series, which would have been tire wear.

Being that there is no strategy and tire management is unnecessary, we have found a trend where the fastest car of the field (different every race) will 87% of the time, win the race. But its seemed that the week following its dominance, it travels to a track where its strength does not shine. That's the compromise of the series in car choice.

If tire wear were and option we could change the regs to where the AWDs would be allowed a hair more power to even up the playing field in the straights due to their exceeding amount of tire wear. This would all have to be in the next season though since most people have done car choices based on the lack of tire wear. But I vote on not doing another tire wear- free series.
 
Thanks for supporting my idea, if Fr don't have any advantage, its means the others have some advantage.
 
I hate getting blown off and moved out the way because my straight line speed sucks. Cornering is really good but not so much I can leave someone enough behind. I'd like to try that IS 200 GT-1 next round. At least it's lesser weight should make me closer to the BMW's.
 
freshseth83
I hate getting blown off and moved out the way because my straight line speed sucks. Cornering is really good but not so much I can leave someone enough behind. I'd like to try that IS 200 GT-1 next round. At least it's lesser weight should make me closer to the BMW's.
Click to expand...

Lol thats how I felt all race the 2nd race. I was faster through the corners, but have slow straight line speed, so even if I got around in a corner, I'd be caught and passed next straight. Then would have to repass again, all the time losing to the leader. With full damage you have to drive extremely defensive to prevent damage, so leaves very little to do if you have a slower car in the straights.

Only real thing to do is bump them out of the way at the risk of getting damage and being an asshole, or sit back and maintain your position.
 
pipi_r6
I don't care if i win or i lose, but i want a change to make good races, just that!!

Sure, in the first 6 is one Fr car, and is Veloci the next is Fresh with points in all races, What a Challenge!!!!

PS: And you, ronin and Owens don't make all races, lol

BMW, Mag Monza 1,5 Sec for you, and others Fr worst than BM
BMW Me Nurb, 2 sec for Owen, and others Fr worst than BM
BMW Me GV 0,6 sec for Yera, and others Fr worst than BM

This is a challenge for you, for me is NOT!!!
Click to expand...


Maybe I'm misunderstanding you here. please explain what you meant. I'm reading it: my attendance to races is bad. However I know this isn't the case. So I'm sure the meaning you are trying to convey is not being comprehended by me.
 
Last edited:
OwensRacing
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you here. please explain what you meant. I'm reading it: my attendance to races is bad. However I know this isn't the case. So I'm sure the meaning you are trying to convey is not being comprehended by me.
Click to expand...

No, Owens, nothing like that.

What I mean is that the 4WD and FF have the an advantage, and not need to do all the races to be the front of the FR in the league, OK
 
Last edited:
pipi_r6
No, Owens, nothing like that.

What I mean is that the 4WD and FF have the an advantage, and not need to do all the races to be the front of the FR in the league, OK
Click to expand...

Much clearer. LoL

I personal think the Evo needs 330/335 To be anywhere near competitive. At 325 the IX pushes a lot and is just a dog.

FR cars need HP 10 minimal?

TISS and Ronin not sure how those cars are doing. I thought they seemed pretty close with Evo at 335 HP.

However that's just a guess. I never tested any cars. Just drove Evo. Did run a lap or two in the ISF as I run it in another series. Tried to help Seth see if the car was capable. Veloci showed it to be similar to his car IIRC.
 
If I had a wheel I might be able to turn faster laps, but I haven't the money for it.
 
freshseth83
If I had a wheel I might be able to turn faster laps, but I haven't the money for it.
Click to expand...

Hate to say it, but many of the fastest guys I know use a DS3.

I know they the Set:

L2 R2 as Brake and Throttle respectively.

L1 R1 as shift down and shift up.

Steer with left stick


whatever you do remove horn from L3 R3 lol
 
I was as fast as i am now on a controller, just got the wheel for the fun factor of driving with a wheel. I used the right analog stick for throttle, the left for steering and L2 R2 for shifting. Its how you drive the car that matters. Maybe the ISF isn't the car for you as it needs to be run aggressively to be fast.

I ran the ISF faster than my silvia by .5 sec, actually.
 
pipi_r6
This series not going in right direction, car rules aren't nothing good, 2nd race of GV with guys starting in front of the grid, but don't run in the first race!!!

if is continue like that i'm out of the champ, i'm not losing more hours with something is not fair for all!!
Click to expand...

Pipi is right. Both races we qualified we were both beside each other mid pack. Im sure i got every sec of it and sure pipi did too but wasnt even close.
 
Guys the reason why the cars are not any closer is because we are not able to limit power in smaller increments. Unfourtunately 10hp mean a world of difference in this cars and I am definitely not going to put anyones integrity in question by giving out 5hp concessions. The design of the series is meant to use track selection as the performance equalizer trough the entire schedule rather than on a race by race basis, consistency pays big at the end and what that means is that those mid-field cars wich aren't particularly fast but rather strong everywhere will have a good ammont of points at the end of the season.
I've been working with Velocy on trying to keep things as close at possible but unfourtunately our power adjustment system doesn't allow for tighter rules and performance limitations. Perhaps I took the wrong aproach and sould've give the AWD cars a weight penalty rather than a HP handicap. Definitely will look into it and see if better results come from it, as always everyone's feedback is welcomed and encouraged so please let me know what you think about it.
 
I don't know many people who are faster with a controller than a wheel. I use Automatic because I can't get down the gear shifting with the R1 L1 since I use R2 L2 for braking and acceleration. I tried using the analog stick it just didn't suit me. Whatever the reason is I'm not great with the IS-F. I think it's my tune. When I ran the CR-Z it wasn't a problem, I think my tune for that car is a lot better. Maybe I'm just better with it. I do want to change cars and use the IS 200 though. I like it's turn in a lot better.
 
OwensRacing
Hate to say it, but many of the fastest guys I know use a DS3.

I know they the Set:

L2 R2 as Brake and Throttle respectively.

L1 R1 as shift down and shift up.

Steer with left stick


whatever you do remove horn from L3 R3 lol
Click to expand...

I'm going to try this out, I used this setup for MotoGp but I couldn't find away to shift gears with other fingers, but I will give it ago'
 
freshseth83
I don't know many people who are faster with a controller than a wheel. I use Automatic because I can't get down the gear shifting with the R1 L1 since I use R2 L2 for braking and acceleration. I tried using the analog stick it just didn't suit me. Whatever the reason is I'm not great with the IS-F. I think it's my tune. When I ran the CR-Z it wasn't a problem, I think my tune for that car is a lot better. Maybe I'm just better with it. I do want to change cars and use the IS 200 though. I like it's turn in a lot better.
Click to expand...

Try running the rear 3 clicks lower

Rear toe -.40

LSD - 5/35/5


That will let you get on the gas earlier and steer out of the turn. It will steer with the rear some at that toe setting. Should help ;)
 
I mostly use a ds 3, but I use the right stick for gas/brake
 
I never used the rear toe angle at that extreme before. I never understood it very well. I still like the other IS better. If were allowed to change cars and Jav lets me use it, I'll switch to that instead.
 
freshseth83
I never used the rear toe angle at that extreme before. I never understood it very well. I still like the other IS better. If were allowed to change cars and Jav lets me use it, I'll switch to that instead.
Click to expand...

Well give it a go and report back. :) learn to drive that set up before truly judging. I've found rather then change it to suit me. I change to suit tune. Been going faster since. This is using known tunes to be running certain fast times.
 
I've ran the other IS a lot, to me it feels better and the balance is a lot better. The IS-F is front heavy and pushes too much. At least the IS 200 is able to go lighter than 1185kg. It doesn't have the downforce the IS-F has, but it's a great car.
 
Whats the LSD tune for not smoking the tires when climbing thru the top part of the R.P.M. band? I know that the accel side is for which wheel pulls, and I thought the initial torque was the one you turn up so the wheels are more likely to not light up, but mine still do even with this setting set to a high value. :banghead:
 
freshseth83
I've ran the other IS a lot, to me it feels better and the balance is a lot better. The IS-F is front heavy and pushes too much. At least the IS 200 is able to go lighter than 1185kg. It doesn't have the downforce the IS-F has, but it's a great car.
Click to expand...

Negative tear toe well help the rear to rotate, making less understeer that the isf has ( front heavy feel)
 
Tuning seems backwards for some cars. Positive rear toe adds oversteer in some cars, then it's opposite in others.
 
Lol! Tuning is all backwards in this game! A high rear height will give you stability, a low height will make the cars rotate like mad! At stiff rear suspension will again make the car stable, while a soft rear will make you rotate! At leas they got the rear toe right(sort of)...

Guys the trhead for the GT Cup is up on the interest check section, check it ou when you get a chance!
 
I'm looking for the tune that allows the rear wheels on high power cars, to not spin at high rpm's. I have to baby any car that has over 450hp thru the turns, or the tires light up on me. I'm on the verge of ruducing my overall hp limits just so I can get on the gas earlier. I thought the initial torque setting was the fix, but I've max this setting out and still had wheel spin issues'
 
Jav
At leas they got the rear toe right(sort of)...
Click to expand...

Scratch that! I just looked, that's backwards too! Negative toe in this game is toe out! Lol!

Edit: Joe in the real world to extract as much straight line traction as possible from a car you'd want 0 toe, 0 camber and a softly sprung driving end. Now in the magic world of GT5 I have no clue on what works and what doesn't, generally I like a twitchy car that I can steer with the throttle but that's the complete opposite of what you want, in terms of the differential settings it shouldn't affwct your straight line performance, but then again what comes before the straight is what's going to give you the speed down that straight, so at the end of the day is all a compromise and finding the compromise that best works for you. A tight diff will light the tires up quick but be quicker arround a corner while a more open setting will give you a smoother engagement, slower trough the turn but should be easier to control. But then again this is all theory and what really works might be totally different on the game.
 
Last edited:
joetruckv8
I'm looking for the tune that allows the rear wheels on high power cars, to not spin at high rpm's. I have to baby any car that has over 450hp thru the turns, or the tires light up on me. I'm on the verge of ruducing my overall hp limits just so I can get on the gas earlier. I thought the initial torque setting was the fix, but I've max this setting out and still had wheel spin issues'
Click to expand...

Yur right Joe, Initial Torq will do the job.Through trial & error I found that a 10 point difference between Initial Torq & Acceleration Sensitivity(example Int.Torq @ 40, Acc.Sent.@30) worked out 4me in my case with Camero.Braking Senstvty I'm still working on.But Torq. has to be higher then Acc.Sentvty.Just try different 10 point ratios.
You also could be maxed out on the cars capabilities & feathering yur car through tuns is what u have to do @ that Hp.Your choice to cut back yur hp may just do u a faster lap time (Are u talking about 1 particular car or every car u drive? not sure.)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back