HaB-Racing (ONLINE only): LM/LMP to 450-600pp roadcars sports tyres - 2015 revisions COMING SOON

Dodge Viper SRT10 coupe '06 - SPORTS hards - 550pp (V3)

Stock: aero

Stage 2 Weight reduction = 1330kgs
Exhaust
Custom gearbox - stock ratios (you might want to run longer 1st, 2nd, short 6th)

* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

110 / 110
8.27 / 9.69
2 / 2
1 / 2
1 / 1
0.0 / 0.0
-0.15 / +0.60

Racing brakes:

5 / 5

LSD:

8
10
10 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)


Alternate:

100 / 100
7.09 / 8.35
2 / 2
1 / 2
2 / 2 (could also use 1 / 1)
0.0 / 0.0
-0.15 / +0.60

 

Bentley Speed 8 '03 - RACING hards - 683pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension (i) - SOFT easy to drive, takes time to 'kick in':

80 / 80
16.53 / 16.77
4 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Suspension (ii) - better balanced on cold tyres:

80 / 80
17.33 / 19.38
4 / 2
4 / 4
5 / 4
-0.25 / +0.50

Suspension (iii) - HARD:

70 / 70
21.78 / 22.49
8 / 7
8 / 7
2 / 3
-0.15 / +0.30

NOTE for (iii) HARD: dampers are 8 / 7, 8 / 7 as this gives quite even feel, but also easy to adjust for various tracks or driving styles. Leave as are for tracks with lower grip , but could lower compression for higher grip tracks. Also, amount/type of camber corners will impact this.

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)


NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

BMW V12 LMR '99 - RACING hards - 677pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension (i) - SOFT easy to drive, takes time to 'kick in':

80 / 80
16.53 / 16.79
3 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Suspension (ii) - better balanced on cold tyres:

80 / 80
16.53 / 16.79
3 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Suspension (iii) - HARD:

70 / 70
21.78 / 21.65
6 / 4
8 / 6
2 / 2
0.0 / 0.0
-0.25 / +0.25

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Sauber Mercedes C9 '89 - RACING hards - 691pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

70 / 70
16.40 / 16.66
4 / 2
4 / 2
1 / 2
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Mazda 787B '91 - RACING hards - 678pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

85 / 85
15.28 / 15.55
4 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Nissan R89C '89 - RACING hards - 685pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

85 / 85
16.53 / 16.78
4 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Nissan R92C '89 - RACING hards - 685pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

85 / 85
16.53 / 16.78
4 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Toyota Minolta 88C-V '89 - RACING hards - 694pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

85 / 85
15.66 / 15.89
4 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
25 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Peugeot 905B Evo 1 Bis LM '92 - RACING hards - 685pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

70 / 70
13.76 / 14.02
4 / 2
4 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
25 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Pescarolo Courage Judd GV5 '04 - RACING hards - 680pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

50 / 50
17.18 / 16.04
6 / 2
4 / 1
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50 (could run default toe of 1.00)

Racing brakes:

4 / 6

LSD:

20
10
35 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

Alternate springs / roll bar:

16.54 / 16.04

2 / 1



NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Pescarolo C60 Hybride - Judd '05 - RACING hards - 691pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

50 / 50
17.18 / 16.04
6 / 2
4 / 1
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +0.50 (could run default toe of 1.00)

Racing brakes:

4 / 6

LSD:

20
10
35 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

Alternate springs / roll bar:

16.54 / 16.04

2 / 1



NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Welcome back
more roadcars pls

 

Thanks

What cars do you want / need?

 

Renault clio v6 24v '00 (450pp sport tires)

 

'MR' roadcars and sports tyres are still a bit of a nighmare. I'll see about taking it for a drive and see if anything has changed with the MR cars, if it's not too bad I'll try and do a setup for it..

 

Nissan R390 GT1 (racecar) '98 - RACING hards - 657pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

85 / 85
18.43 / 18.73
3 / 1
6 / 2
1 / 2
0.5 / 0.5
-0.25 / +0.50 (could run default toe of -0.50 / 1.00)

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

20
10
25 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, but gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

 

Its sooooo good to see you back in the match. Missed you really. Some of your tunes from December/January are still working. The Setup for the Honda NSX LM Road Car is still working. But anyway: good to see you back

 

I Drive Sport or comfort tires all The time..
i never use racing tires..
IMO all ok with the MR.cars

 

Highlandor: Do you drive Stockwheels or the 1 or 2 inch bigger Wheels. Does it match witch Wheels I put on Streetcars ?

I drive Streetcars with Sport Soft. Yout tunes are regular for Sport Hard or Medium. Do you think there is a big diffrent ? I mean yout tunes woks only 70% ( for Example) on Sport Soft ?

 

OK, cool.. I had a look at the Evora and NSX @ 550pp sports hard and they were still a bit of a handful. It's possible to tune them, but using such a 'way out' setup (that I don't really call a setup, more a glitch fix), I left them or a while, but might have another go.

I'll try and look at the Clio later today, depends how well other things go

To be honest, don't really know abut the wheels. After all the problems with the wheels at the start of GT6 I don't really use them much. I try to use as little 'things' as possible other than suspension, brakes and LSD as the more 'things' you add, the more it takes away from the setup and learning about what works / doesn't.

By using bare minimum, it means people using my tunes can add wheels, stiffness etc to a setup if they feel it helps them.

I'm very surprised 70% of the setups work, I would have guessed at maybe 10-20% maximum. The setups are 10 months and 8 or 9 updates old, and most of them aren't for SS tyres, so if 70% are usuabl then I'm amazed, very cool - thank you for letting me know

I'll try and have a look at wheels if I get time later today.

Which types of setups are the 30% that dont work for you, are they all one tyre of car i.e. fr 4wd or mr 4wd, MR, fwd or is it all kinds of car?

Many thanks for your feedback

 

Had a go with the '00 V6 Clio, was surprised how good it was (in terms of not lighting up the tyres in corners with elevation changes / camber), didn't think I could do much to improve it in terms of lap times, just make it a bit more 'pointy' and little bit more traction out of hairpins etc

Not sure how well the setup will work on other tyres / PP, but would be interested to know if it transfers over OK..

Hope the setup helps..

 

After several laps at Monza I realized this:
While the old setup was saggy and occasionally jumpy, I realized that most of the understeer was due to a nooby mistake: too much throttle. It was mainly because of my no-resistance crap pedals. The throttle is on or off... But some of it was because of the car. It pushed while going into some of the medium-speed corners. Not the chicanes or really forgiving ones, but the medium speed ones.

I tried your changes, and they fixed the stability problem and got rid of a good chunk of understeer. The car handles better and smoother. However, it still pushes a bit, and I have to let off the throttle in then idle of a typical flat-out corner.

But that's probably because of my incompetence

After all, I am a crappy driver with a crappy wheel...

Thanks for putting in the time and effort to help me!

 

Renault Sport Clio V6 24v '00 - SPORTS hard 450pp (V3)

Stock: aero, wheels

Weight reduction stage 2 = 1161kgs
Custom gearbox - stock ratio's

Suspension:

105 / 105
5.72 / 5.72
2 / 2
2 / 2
2 / 1
0.0 / 0.0
0.0 / +0.60

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

10
10
25 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

 

No worries.. If you're using the Logitech GT / driving force wheel(s) (can't remember the correct name - basically, not the G25 or G27), quite a few of the people I race with used the tennis / golf ball trick to get more feel from the pedals. Not sure of you know about this? Sound a bit crazy, I know, but it's true.

If the car is still pushing mid corner, there's still changes that can help that, but it's hard to know what the right change would be for you, as some will only affect the mid corner, whilst other changes could affect other things like traction grip to rear wheels.

As a 'stab in the dark' guess, reduce LSD initial to 8 and try raising rear dampers even more, or of you want more turn in when you're 'coasting' mid corner, just lower braking sensitivity on the LSD by '2' at a time until it feels right..

Keep practicing and I'm sure you can improve your driving skills. There's different ways to do this, try picking one RWD car that's quite well balanced and powerful, then run low grip tyres - like a M3 '07 or M5 on comfort softs (possibly even mediums). Stick to that one car and try the harder tracks that have elevation change in corners i.e. Trial Mountain, Deep Forest, Cape Ring, Brand Hatch - it'll help build your throttle control.

Try practicing trail braking aswell Make sure you stick to the same car / tyre combo for each track though, so the only variable that changes is the track, nothing else..

Best of luck - it'll take a bit of time, but keep at it (and maybe ask Santa for a nice wheel for Xmas!)...

 

Jaguar XJR-9 '88 - RACING hards - 680pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

70 / 70
17.89 / 16.67
2 / 3
3 / 3
1 / 3
0.5 / 0.5
-0.25 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 5

LSD:

15
10
20 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Audi R8 (Audi Playstation Team ORECA) '05 - RACING hards - 674pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

80 / 80
17.49 / 17.75
2 / 3
3 / 3
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +1.00

Racing brakes:

4 / 6

LSD:

30
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Peugeot 908 HDi FAP Team Oreca Matmut '10 - RACING hards - 674pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

80 / 80
17.65 / 17.07
3 / 3
3 / 3
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +1.00

Racing brakes:

4 / 6

LSD:

30
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Audi R10 TDI '06 - RACING hards - 655pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

70 / 90
16.98 / 17.30
3 / 3
3 / 2
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.50 / +1.00

Racing brakes:

4 / 6

LSD:

30
10
25 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

Audi R18 TDI (Audi Sport Team Joest) '11 - RACING hards - 626pp (V3)

Stock: aero, gearbox, power, tyres


* * * ALWAYS read 1st post before trying setup * * *

Suspension:

80 / 80
16.50 / 16.62
4 / 2
2 / 1
2 / 1
0.5 / 0.5
-0.25 / +0.50

Racing brakes:

4 / 6

LSD:

20
10
30 (adjust to suit your style: lower = more lift off turn in (oversteer), higher = less (understeer)

NOTE:

These (type of) cars on these tyres will need quite different adjustments according to driving style. Don't make snap decisions on adjustments from first lap, it takes approximately 10-15 miles (20k's) before tyres really start to 'kick in', when they do, it makes a huge difference.

Test with fuel / tyre wear on fast, do at least 6-10 laps and adjust owing to how long you'll be on track i.e. each stint.

My fastest laps with these cars all came in the middle of the stint, at first car feels a bit twitchy, bu gets better and better each lap. End of stint, car has still has balance and grip, but slightly lower lap times.

Some tracks i.e. La Sarthe, may need bespoke setup for that track owing to the track surface.

Gearbox @ stock isn't too bad, these cars have so much torque that short shifting out of tight corners doesn't hurt the lap time too badly. You'll need to balance traction with tyre wear - for some short shifting to save tyres will be needed, for others, the opposite, hard acceleration to keep heat in tyre or even tyre wear will be necessary.

Only change aero as last resort, try to keep stock difference (between fr and rr) whatever strength of aero you're using (low, medium, high).

Using RM or RS tyres will affect the balance - post on thread if help is needed with adjustments.

 

-- Whoa, Whoa, Whoa!

Glad to see your back doing tunes on GT6 Highlandor! " its a BLESSING!" (the grandpa from Christmas vacation)

-- Anyway, as you might already know I & some of the players I race with STILL use your tunes!(with adjustments do to up-dates) (GT3). I would like to know if you could up-date ALL GT3 category cars? (including the R8 plz!) in the past you didn't like the R8 & I understand but!, your set-up was still great!

-- If you could make the set-ups on RH tires that would be great!
-- And about the R8 LMS '12, I will take ANY kind of set-up that you feel is 'good enough'.

----GT3 category: GT-R GT3, SLS GT3, Z4 GT3, R8 LMS Ultra.

- As usual, thnks very much for your time & no rush, I can wait! I knw it will be worth it!

- Glad ur back & enjoy ur tuning!