Haus of flying Daggers

  • Thread starter DolHaus
  • 386 comments
  • 98,396 views
MitsuFGTNürburgring Nordschleife__2.jpg

Car Make/Model: Mitsubishi Concept XR-PHEV Evolution Vision Gran Turismo
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 502 BHP @ 7500 rpm / 103.5kgfm @ 1000 rpm
Weight: 1350 kg
Performance Points: 609pp
Tires: RH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height: Front: 51 Rear: 47
Spring Rate: Front: 18.40 kg Rear: 19.80 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 3 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension): Front: 6 Rear: 8
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4 Rear: 5
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.00° Rear: 0.20°
Brakes: Racing Upgrade F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: Fully Customisable Transmission

1) Set final to 5.000
2) Set Max Speed to 112
3) Set in sequence (8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-F)

1: 4.960
2: 3.710
3: 2.870
4: 2.262
5: 1.833
6: 1.536
7: 1.322
8: 1.169

Final: 3.200

Differential Gear: Standard

Initial Torque:
F - R -
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -
Clutch & Flywheel: Standard
Propeller Shaft: Standard
Torque Distributing Centre Differential: Standard
AYC Controller: 50

Power

Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body

Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 365 R: 715
Weight Reduction:
Standard
Bonnet: Standard
Windows:
Standard
Ballast:
0 kg
Ballast position: 0
 
View attachment 164924
Car Make/Model: Mitsubishi Concept XR-PHEV Evolution Vision Gran Turismo
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 502 BHP @ 7500 rpm / 103.5kgfm @ 1000 rpm
Weight: 1350 kg
Performance Points: 609pp
Tires: RH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height: Front: 51 Rear: 47
Spring Rate: Front: 18.40 kg Rear: 19.80 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 3 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension): Front: 6 Rear: 8
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4 Rear: 5
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.00° Rear: 0.20°
Brakes: Racing Upgrade F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: Fully Customisable Transmission

1) Set final to 5.000
2) Set Max Speed to 112
3) Set in sequence (8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-F)

1: 4.960
2: 3.710
3: 2.870
4: 2.262
5: 1.833
6: 1.536
7: 1.322
8: 1.169

Final: 3.200

Differential Gear: Standard
Initial Torque: F - R -
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -
Clutch & Flywheel: Standard
Propeller Shaft: Standard
Torque Distributing Centre Differential: Standard
AYC Controller: 50

Power

Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body

Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 365 R: 715
Weight Reduction: Standard
Bonnet: Standard
Windows: Standard
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0
If it drives as well as the picture looks beautiful, it must be amazing.👍 I'll give you some news after I try it. Take care of yourself.
 
If it drives as well as the picture looks beautiful, it must be amazing.👍 I'll give you some news after I try it. Take care of yourself.
Thank you, I got lucky with the light at the ring.

Its an odd car to tune, I was left wishing it had a proper LSD as I'm not a massive fan of the AYC. I didn't like the way the car sort of dived into corners when off the throttle, found it made the car really hard to place and be consistent with so I focussed most of the effort into getting rid of that. Once that was dealt with the car only needed a bit of attention, there's a decent car underneath the initial oddness.
Would love to hear what you think, all the best

I'm 97% sure it's meant to imply that there's no rush, but it sure sounds like "I don't care if you go a week without sleep, I want it done!" :lol:
Haha, I'm sure it wasn't meant like that, short term orders are usually a lot more frantic and involve some degree of begging/pleading lol
 
Thank you, I got lucky with the light at the ring.
Haha, I'm sure it wasn't meant like that, short term orders are usually a lot more frantic and involve some degree of begging/pleading lol
Whoops :P Should improve my English abilities haha

Anyway, I'm yet to test it, but I don't like the fact that it loves to drift even if in tarmac if you try to dive into a corner when off the throttle. Sure, it's usually recoverable because of AYC and 4WD, but it's jarring.
 
Whoops :P Should improve my English abilities haha

Anyway, I'm yet to test it, but I don't like the fact that it loves to drift even if in tarmac if you try to dive into a corner when off the throttle. Sure, it's usually recoverable because of AYC and 4WD, but it's jarring.
Your English is very good, far better than my Japanese at any rate.
It feels less nervous and unstable now, much more constant between being on the throttle and lifting off. It can't be fitted with a Custom LSD unfortunately, the problem would have been easier to fix if it could be. The car is much more constant now, dives less and feels more predictable and easier to use.
 
Dolhaus,is possible to tune the 3 Senna cars?if its possible with soft Racing.Thanks
Sorry, not really my kind of car. I will tune race cars but my cut off point is GT3/GT500, not really into Formula cars or LMP's as they don't suit my driving/tuning style.

I believe @praiano63 has a tune for the 97t in his garage
 
F40Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps_13b.jpg

Ferrari F40 '92
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power:
500 BHP @ 7000 rpm / 64.3 kgfm @ 4000 rpm
Weight:
1172 kg
Performance Points:
500pp
Tires:
SS

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height:
Front: 85 Rear: 85
Spring Rate:
Front: 9.08 kg Rear: 15.45 kg
Dampers (Compression):
Front: 4 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension):
Front: 8 Rear: 7
Anti-Roll Bars:
Front: 4 Rear: 4 (4/5 If you require more stability)
Camber Angle (-):
Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle:
Front: 0.01° Rear: 0.10°
Brakes: Racing Upgrade
F: 5 R: 6

Drivetrain: Fully Customisable Transmission

1)
Set final to 3.750
2)
Set Max Speed to 112
3)
Set in sequence (5-4-3-2-1-F)

1:
4.400
2:
2.610
3:
1.850
4:
1.440
5:
1.144

Final:
2.490

Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential

Initial Torque:
F - R -15
Acceleration Sensitivity:
F - R -15
Braking Sensitivity:
F - R -15
Clutch & Flywheel:
Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft:
Standard

Power

Oil Change:
No
Power Limiter:
100%
Engine Tuning:
Standard
Computer:
Standard
Exhaust:
Standard
Exhaust Manifold:
Isometric
Catalytic Converter:
Standard
Intake Tuning:
Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage:
Low-Rpm
Nitrous Oxide (N2O):
No

Body

Body Rigidity Improvement:
No
Downforce:
F: 0 R: 50
Weight Reduction:
Stage 3
Bonnet:
Standard
Windows:
Weight Reduction
Ballast:
60 kg
Ballast position:
-32
 
R5London.jpg
Drift Spec
Renault R5 Turbo '80
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 243 BHP @ 6100 rpm / 29.2 kgfm @ 4600 rpm
Weight: 882 kg
Performance Points: 454pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height: Front: 100 Rear: 100
Spring Rate: Front: 3.51 kg Rear: 6.12 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 3 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension): Front: 2 Rear: 2
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 2 Rear: 2
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.3° Rear: 0.1°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.00° Rear: 0.16°
Brakes: F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: 5 Speed


Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
Initial Torque: F - R -60
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -60
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -60
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Standard

Power
Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Stage 1
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Standard
Exhaust Manifold: Isometric
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Yes
Turbo Kit: Stage: High-Rpm
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Stage 2
Bonnet: Standard
Windows: Standard
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position:0
 
Last edited:
z28Circuito di Roma_13.jpg

Chevrolet Camaro Z28 '69

Wheel / Joypad:
PS3 controller
Power:
368 BHP @ 6100 rpm / 49.1 kgfm @ 4400 rpm
Weight:
1159 kg
Performance Points:
500ppTires: SH
Fitted Parts: Aero type A, Custom rear wing A

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height:
Front: 115 Rear: 110
Spring Rate:
Front: 7.46 kg Rear: 6.50 kg
Dampers (Compression):
Front: 4 Rear: 4
Dampers (Extension):
Front: 2 Rear: 3
Anti-Roll Bars:
Front: 6 Rear: 6
Camber Angle (-):
Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle:
Front: 0.00° Rear: 0.09°
Brakes:
Racing Upgrade F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: Fully Customisable Transmission
1)
Set Max Speed to 162
1:
3.002
2:
1.990
3:
1.427
4:
1.082
5:
0.868

Final:
3.890

Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential

Initial Torque:
F - R -17
Acceleration Sensitivity:
F - R -17
Braking Sensitivity:
F - R -17
Clutch & Flywheel:
Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft:
Carbon

Power

Oil Change:
No
Power Limiter:
97.4%
Engine Tuning:
Stage 3
Computer:
Standard
Exhaust:
Sports
Exhaust Manifold:
Standard
Catalytic Converter:
Standard Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage:
Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O):
No

Body

Body Rigidity Improvement:
No
Downforce:
F: 0 R: 12
Weight Reduction:
Stage 3
Bonnet:
Carbon
Windows:
Weight Reduction
Ballast:
0 kg
Ballast position:
0
 
BMWCape Ring North_3.jpg

Drift Spec
BMW M3 Coupe '07
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 478 BHP @ 8800 rpm / 45.4 kgfm @ 4300 rpm
Weight: 1325 kg
Performance Points: 478pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height: Front: 102 Rear: 90
Spring Rate: Front: 5.02 kg Rear: 11.80 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 4 Rear: 6
Dampers (Extension): Front: 2 Rear: 2
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4 Rear: 5
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.3° Rear: 0.1°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.02° Rear: 0.16°
Brakes: F: 5 R: 7

Drivetrain: 6 Speed


Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
Initial Torque: F - R -30
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -60
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -20
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Stage 1
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Semi-Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Yes
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No
Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0
 
View attachment 164924
Car Make/Model: Mitsubishi Concept XR-PHEV Evolution Vision Gran Turismo
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 502 BHP @ 7500 rpm / 103.5kgfm @ 1000 rpm
Weight: 1350 kg
Performance Points: 609pp
Tires: RH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height: Front: 51 Rear: 47
Spring Rate: Front: 18.40 kg Rear: 19.80 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 3 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension): Front: 6 Rear: 8
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4 Rear: 5
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.00° Rear: 0.20°
Brakes: Racing Upgrade F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: Fully Customisable Transmission

1) Set final to 5.000
2) Set Max Speed to 112
3) Set in sequence (8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-F)

1: 4.960
2: 3.710
3: 2.870
4: 2.262
5: 1.833
6: 1.536
7: 1.322
8: 1.169

Final: 3.200

Differential Gear: Standard
Initial Torque: F - R -
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -
Clutch & Flywheel: Standard
Propeller Shaft: Standard
Torque Distributing Centre Differential: Standard
AYC Controller: 50

Power

Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body

Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 365 R: 715
Weight Reduction: Standard
Bonnet: Standard
Windows: Standard
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0
Hi Dolhaus, finally found some time to try this, one more week of craziness and life gets back to sort of normal. I have a love/hate relationship with this car, it does take some time to get used to it because it has a strong personality.
I tried your tuning setup, and then I drove it like it was out of the box, to be honest I didn't notice a huge difference in the behavior of the car, a slight difference in cornering. I was a little faster with the original setup, but that could be because I did those laps after trying your setup. I have no idea how the AYC works but I noticed that as soon as you let go the gas it turns much sharper. At low speeds you can turn 90 deg. angles easily, give it a little gas with the wheel turned and the back pops up ready to follow you, to much gas and you'll be kissing the wall or eating up the grass, when decelerating this can and is a problem, if you attack the curve with your normal way of turning well you know what happens, so you have to learn new braking and turning places. I haven't tried it on dirt or snow but I have a feeling it might do well especially on dirt tracks. I like the way the car behaves because you have to control your driving to tame it, but unlike something like the Toyota 7, with practice you do have a chance at doing some good laps with it. It may be my impression only, but I found it a little slow for the amount of PP they gave it, and I really don't like the way it looks, good thing that when I drive it I can't see it. Hey I'm rambling on like a hen, that's what happens when you don't get the time to delve in the wonderful world of gtplanet.
I've tried quite a bit of your tunes, those that you know and those I didn't tell you (heh heh), I'd chalk this one in the experimental index with the mention "WILL BE PROPERLY TUNED WHEN THEY INSTALL A M.S.L.D.".
Hey, yesterday I went for my first kayak ride of the year, this is the earliest I ever went, I hate cold water, especially if I fall in it. I've also been working on my version 2 of my spreadsheets, I really like learning how excel works, it's been giving my brain some long due exercise.
Take care of yourself,:cheers:.
 
Hi Dolhaus, finally found some time to try this, one more week of craziness and life gets back to sort of normal. I have a love/hate relationship with this car, it does take some time to get used to it because it has a strong personality.
I tried your tuning setup, and then I drove it like it was out of the box, to be honest I didn't notice a huge difference in the behavior of the car, a slight difference in cornering. I was a little faster with the original setup, but that could be because I did those laps after trying your setup. I have no idea how the AYC works but I noticed that as soon as you let go the gas it turns much sharper. At low speeds you can turn 90 deg. angles easily, give it a little gas with the wheel turned and the back pops up ready to follow you, to much gas and you'll be kissing the wall or eating up the grass, when decelerating this can and is a problem, if you attack the curve with your normal way of turning well you know what happens, so you have to learn new braking and turning places. I haven't tried it on dirt or snow but I have a feeling it might do well especially on dirt tracks. I like the way the car behaves because you have to control your driving to tame it, but unlike something like the Toyota 7, with practice you do have a chance at doing some good laps with it. It may be my impression only, but I found it a little slow for the amount of PP they gave it, and I really don't like the way it looks, good thing that when I drive it I can't see it. Hey I'm rambling on like a hen, that's what happens when you don't get the time to delve in the wonderful world of gtplanet.
I've tried quite a bit of your tunes, those that you know and those I didn't tell you (heh heh), I'd chalk this one in the experimental index with the mention "WILL BE PROPERLY TUNED WHEN THEY INSTALL A M.S.L.D.".
Hey, yesterday I went for my first kayak ride of the year, this is the earliest I ever went, I hate cold water, especially if I fall in it. I've also been working on my version 2 of my spreadsheets, I really like learning how excel works, it's been giving my brain some long due exercise.
Take care of yourself,:cheers:.
Thank you for the review, I'm not happy with the tune overall because of the lack of a real LSD, I find that the way AYC constantly shifts the power around makes the car impossible to work with on a serious level. I like to tune a car so it responds to the input of the driver rather than the whims of a computer. If I feel a car needs to be able to dart in when lifting off the throttle then I can tune the LSD to do that (big numerical distance between Initial and Accel combined with soft springs/dampers), I want to be able to choose how much and how aggressively it does this with throttle inputs rather than having a predetermined system force the decision. There is no amount of suspension tuning that can overcome the odd way AYC operates in game, it forces the car to respond how it wants to rather than how you want it to.

All the best of luck with the Kayaking, I was going to start doing some in the local estuary this summer but the winter hasn't been kind on my shoulder so I think it would prove unwise in the long run. As for excel, I've never liked the thing, when ever I see that much maths in one place my eyes glaze over lol
 
carltonRed Bull Ring_3.jpg


Drift Spec
Vauhall Lotus Carlton '90
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 493 BHP @ 5400 rpm / 68.9 kgfm @ 4700 rpm
Weight: 1425 kg
Performance Points: 521pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height: Front: 90 Rear: 90
Spring Rate: Front: 9.35 kg Rear: 10.30 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 4 Rear: 6
Dampers (Extension): Front: 5 Rear: 5
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 5 Rear: 6
Camber Angle (-): Front: 3.1° Rear: 0.4°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.05° Rear: 0.16°
Brakes: F: 4 R: 7

Drivetrain: 6 Speed


Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
Initial Torque: F - R -60
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -60
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -60
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Semi-Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Isometric
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: High RPM
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No
Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 100 kg
Ballast position: 50
 
supraBrands Hatch Grand Prix Circuit '80s_1.jpg


Toyota Supra 3.0GT Turbo A '88
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 399 BHP @ 6200 rpm / 46.8 kgfm @ 6200 rpm
Weight: 1224 kg
Performance Points: 499pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height: Front: 110 Rear: 105
Spring Rate: Front: 7.50 kg Rear: 8.39 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 4 Rear: 2
Dampers (Extension): Front: 4 Rear: 4
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4 Rear: 4
Camber Angle (-): Front: 1.4° Rear: 0.6°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.02° Rear: 0.12°
Brakes: F: 4 R: 6

Drivetrain: 5 Speed


Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
Initial Torque: F - R -5
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -60
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -30
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Semi-Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: High RPM
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No
Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0
 
carltonRed Bull Ring_3.jpg

Vauxhall Lotus Carlton '90
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 493 BHP @ 5400 rpm / 68.9 kgfm @ 4700 rpm
Weight: 1425 kg
Performance Points: 521pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height: Front: 90 Rear: 90
Spring Rate: Front: 9.35 kg Rear: 10.30 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 4 Rear: 6
Dampers (Extension): Front: 5 Rear: 5
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 5 Rear: 6
Camber Angle (-): Front: 3.1° Rear: 0.4°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.05° Rear: 0.16°
Brakes: F: 4 R: 7

Drivetrain: 6 Speed


Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
Initial Torque: F - R -60
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -60
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -60
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Semi-Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Isometric
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: High RPM
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No
Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 100 kg
Ballast position: 50
 
View attachment 174121

Drift Spec
Vauhall Lotus Carlton '90

Hi there my busy friend, I tried your Carlton out, but unfortunately I can't really give you any worthy feedback on it, I really suck at drifting, after twenty minutes of frustration I quit, didn't even get the bronze. Drifting is not my thing, for now. Afterwards I went to check out the videos of the the leaders and one of my many problems was that I was going much to fast, and also I couldn't find the right corner entry, and when I did and those points were starting to rack up I'd loose control and received a generous dose of "boos" from the impartial crowd. It was nice to try your creation and I haven't given up on drifting, just taking a good long break. Take good care of yourself,:cheers:.
 
Hi there my busy friend, I tried your Carlton out, but unfortunately I can't really give you any worthy feedback on it, I really suck at drifting, after twenty minutes of frustration I quit, didn't even get the bronze. Drifting is not my thing, for now. Afterwards I went to check out the videos of the the leaders and one of my many problems was that I was going much to fast, and also I couldn't find the right corner entry, and when I did and those points were starting to rack up I'd loose control and received a generous dose of "boos" from the impartial crowd. It was nice to try your creation and I haven't given up on drifting, just taking a good long break. Take good care of yourself,:cheers:.
I'd recommend the Supra above rather than the Carlton, its way more progressive and easy to drive. The Carlton was more of a means to an end and isn't the easiest to drive whereas the supra is more about the driving experience, I'd go as far as saying its the perfect learner car because its just so forgiving.

Tips to improve your technique:

Driving line:- This can be a little tricky to adapt to, you need to stop thinking about the fastest way through a bend and start thinking about the longest and smoothest way through a bend. You are aiming for the same basic Out-In-Out but instead of following it with the front of the car, you are following it with the rear, the front wheels are just there to stop you going past 90 degrees.
The idea is to keep as much momentum as possible, you want to be going sideways but still progressing forwards. If you are going sideways then you are going to start slowing down, drifting was originally used as a braking technique so that passes could be made later in the corner rather than in the traditional braking zone. The more angle you have, the more you slow down, the less you have, the more momentum you keep.
You want to be turning in about a car length before where you would normally and much more aggressively in order to bring the rear around. Turn in hard, feel the rear step out, get on the throttle to encourage it and start counter steering to catch the slide. Use the throttle to balance the rear, smooth inputs to make sure you don't unbalance the car, if you lift off too suddenly the load will transfer onto the front wheels and you will pirouette around them.
Once sideways the major steering is done by the rear wheels, more throttle to get more rotation, less to straighten up. The job of the front wheels is just to follow the inside of the curve via counter steering.

Techniques:- There are 3 basic techniques to master that suit different situations but these are frequently mixed together simultaneously.

Handbrake- About as simple as it gets really, turn in to the corner hard, lift off the throttle and grab a fistful of handbrake to speed up rotation. The rear wheels will lock up and lose grip making them rotate around the front axle. Suited best to tight hairpins where you need to be facing the opposite direction quickly. In order to maintain the slide and momentum you will need to get on the throttle as soon as you let go of the handbrake.

Power Over: Again very simple, more akin to poor racing technique than drifting. Enter the corner as you would normally, slowing to the apex before picking your line and powering out. The idea is to wait until weight is transferred onto the rear wheels and then give it a big boot full of throttle and breaking traction.

Feint/Scandinavian Flick: A personal favourite of mine, I'd say I use it for 90% of drifting, a very effective way of changing forward momentum into sideways motion. Enter the corner about a car width from the outside edge, lift off the throttle and turn sharply away from the corner before turning back in and getting back on the gas. This basically shifts weight aggressively from side to side meaning that the break in traction happens quickly without losing too much forward momentum. This means that you can enter a corner already quite sideways without having to sacrifice speed which maximises efficiency and score.
 
I'd recommend the Supra above rather than the Carlton, its way more progressive and easy to drive. The Carlton was more of a means to an end and isn't the easiest to drive whereas the supra is more about the driving experience, I'd go as far as saying its the perfect learner car because its just so forgiving.

Tips to improve your technique:

Driving line:- This can be a little tricky to adapt to, you need to stop thinking about the fastest way through a bend and start thinking about the longest and smoothest way through a bend. You are aiming for the same basic Out-In-Out but instead of following it with the front of the car, you are following it with the rear, the front wheels are just there to stop you going past 90 degrees.
The idea is to keep as much momentum as possible, you want to be going sideways but still progressing forwards. If you are going sideways then you are going to start slowing down, drifting was originally used as a braking technique so that passes could be made later in the corner rather than in the traditional braking zone. The more angle you have, the more you slow down, the less you have, the more momentum you keep.
You want to be turning in about a car length before where you would normally and much more aggressively in order to bring the rear around. Turn in hard, feel the rear step out, get on the throttle to encourage it and start counter steering to catch the slide. Use the throttle to balance the rear, smooth inputs to make sure you don't unbalance the car, if you lift off too suddenly the load will transfer onto the front wheels and you will pirouette around them.
Once sideways the major steering is done by the rear wheels, more throttle to get more rotation, less to straighten up. The job of the front wheels is just to follow the inside of the curve via counter steering.

Techniques:- There are 3 basic techniques to master that suit different situations but these are frequently mixed together simultaneously.

Handbrake- About as simple as it gets really, turn in to the corner hard, lift off the throttle and grab a fistful of handbrake to speed up rotation. The rear wheels will lock up and lose grip making them rotate around the front axle. Suited best to tight hairpins where you need to be facing the opposite direction quickly. In order to maintain the slide and momentum you will need to get on the throttle as soon as you let go of the handbrake.

Power Over: Again very simple, more akin to poor racing technique than drifting. Enter the corner as you would normally, slowing to the apex before picking your line and powering out. The idea is to wait until weight is transferred onto the rear wheels and then give it a big boot full of throttle and breaking traction.

Feint/Scandinavian Flick: A personal favourite of mine, I'd say I use it for 90% of drifting, a very effective way of changing forward momentum into sideways motion. Enter the corner about a car width from the outside edge, lift off the throttle and turn sharply away from the corner before turning back in and getting back on the gas. This basically shifts weight aggressively from side to side meaning that the break in traction happens quickly without losing too much forward momentum. This means that you can enter a corner already quite sideways without having to sacrifice speed which maximises efficiency and score.
Thanks, I'll give it a second try later on tonight and will post you the results, by the way I hadn't really payed attention to the picture for your avatar (:lol:👍), it makes sense to me now, might be fun if PD would give us some train rails and a couple of locomotives with wagons to try drifting with it. Will try the Supra and hopefully get something more than 'Boos' or a couple of hand claps. Take care.
 
View attachment 174129

Toyota Supra 3.0GT Turbo A '88
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 399 BHP @ 6200 rpm / 46.8 kgfm @ 6200 rpm
Weight: 1224 kg
Performance Points: 499pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
Ride Height: Front: 110 Rear: 105
Spring Rate: Front: 7.50 kg Rear: 8.39 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 4 Rear: 2
Dampers (Extension): Front: 4 Rear: 4
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4 Rear: 4
Camber Angle (-): Front: 1.4° Rear: 0.6°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.02° Rear: 0.12°
Brakes: F: 4 R: 6

Drivetrain: 5 Speed


Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
Initial Torque: F - R -5
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -60
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -30
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Semi-Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: High RPM
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No
Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0
Well, you wouldn't believe it, I'm ranked at number 5, wow, .......just kidding, but I did manage to get the bronze and missed the silver by very little, definitely this car is better suited for me, I will try it again another day and in theory I should get better with practice. I don't know how you cope with this but when I went back to test driving my RX-500 I was involuntary shifting the weight of the car to drift, that does slow you down quite a bit, it would have been funny if I had driven a Nascar race that way. It's still hard for me to judge the car on its merits when I can't control my driving in drifting, but it was definitely easier with the Supra, nice work.👍
 
View attachment 116032

Car: Chevrolet Corvette Stingray (C7) '14

Wheel / Controller: DS3
Power: 689 HP
Weight: 1,230kg
Performance Points: 600pp
Tires: Sports: Soft

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height: 100/100

Spring Rate: 11.57/10.86

Dampers (Compression): 4/4

Dampers (Extension): 4/4

Anti-Roll Bars: 3/3
Camber Angle (-): 0.0/0.0
Toe Angle: -0.04/0.20

Brakes: Racing
Bias: 7/7

Transmission: (Fully Customisable Transmission)

Set final to: 5.000

Speed: 149mph

1: 2.575
2: 1.910
3: 1.600
4: 1.350
5: 1.149
6: 0.963
7: 0.836

Final: 3.410

Limited Slip Differential: (Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited-Slip Differential)
Initial Torque:
10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 18
Braking Sensitivity: 12
Clutch & Flywheel: Triple-Plate
Drive Shaft: Carbon
Center Differential: N/A

Power
Oil Change:
Yes
Power Limiter: 99.8
Engine Tuning: Stage 3
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Isometric
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body
Body Rigidity Improvement:
No
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Hood: Carbon
Windows: Window weight reduction
Ballast: 0
Ballast position: 0

My fastest lap was 1:17.820 on Deep Forest Raceway. Tuned and tested on that track in an online lobby with everything on real, no aids except abs 1.

@DolHaus gave me a major tip that helped the lap time by two whole seconds: Keep the front springs stiffer (generally) than the rear. So here you go, another joint project from me and @DolHaus! As usual, tell us what you thought of the tune!



This is a great tune!! Was wondering if you could tune the X-Bow R and or the RUF Yellow Bird? Thanks again!!
 
Hi DolHaus, I tried few of ur race tune and I like it very much, therefore I have a request for you. I've been trying to tune two cars (HSR-II '89, and Nissan R390 GT-1 Road Car '98) both cars with 550PP and RS tire, I search through most the tuning garage, and I have no luck with a decent racing tune hopefully you have can come up with a good advice!!

CHEERS,

Linlashi
 
Hi DolHaus, I tried few of ur race tune and I like it very much, therefore I have a request for you. I've been trying to tune two cars (HSR-II '89, and Nissan R390 GT-1 Road Car '98) both cars with 550PP and RS tire, I search through most the tuning garage, and I have no luck with a decent racing tune hopefully you have can come up with a good advice!!

CHEERS,

Linlashi
I don't really tune using RS tyres unfortunately, perhaps @Thorin Cain can help you? 👍
 
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