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Oh my uncle installed a OS today, and I'm a newb to computers so I didn't know that they normally come without WiFi..
 
I guess it depends. Not all people have there desktop computer in the same room as their router. So in that case i probably overstated. It seems more people do use Wifi on there Desktops than I thought.
 
I use the wired connection and I don't have my router in the same room. Not even on the same floor. So I had to wire up my house with CAT5E cable And now I can connect in a few rooms.

I also use WiFi (on my laptop) but the quality of it doesn't fit my need. I get 20-30mbit speed (depends on how close I am to the router) and with a Internet speed of 60/60 it would just be a waste of money to have that kind of Internet speed.

Also it get's a lot better stability. I know a lot of guys here live at their parents houses and aren't allowed to drill holes in their walls to put cables through it so I understand to use WiFi, but I also heard people say it's just as good as wire.

As a guy who have worked with it I can just say it again.. NO ITS NOT!!

You seen a car blink? 50% chance is on a wireless connection 25% chance his computer can't handle showing that many cars or 25% chance his Internet sucks..

If you check his laps later on and see the word "discontinuity" you know it's not his computer. Also most internet services today doesn't time out like it used to be 12 years ago so most likely is it his wireless connection at his home that got disturbed by something. Because wireless connection can be disturbed by any thing electrical in your house as it just is Radio signals. That's actually sound waves going on a so high frequency living things can't hear it. But if you get two signals witch is close in frequency you could have problems.

And when people live in appartments with several different living units you will have some problems when it comes to online gaming. To check Facebook, Twitter, GTPlanet and other simple web browsing features wont get hurt. But you wont notice a little timeout when loading up facebook or gtplanet. But browsing isn't gaming.

So in my honest opinion, ordering a gaming computer and install a WiFi unit on it is not good. You should actually try all you can to wire up the computer to get the best possible connection to internet.
 
Wiring is out of the question because I don have anything to do so..
 
Now I'm starting to consider the Mustang again... it runs on Mosport this week :)
 
I hate technology...

Need a new keyboard already..
 
Sorry about the issue Matty.

I have a Wireless adapter which connects through USB but it is made by the ame company as my router. I'm one of the very few people who can use wireless since my router is in the next room. I could make myself a long Cat 5 cable but I don't have the tools to do that.
 
My keyboard decides when it wants a letter to come up.. Tap once for no letters tap again for 7...

Makes passwords impossible to type..
 
Bought the Mustang, I like it. It under steers just a bit, but its manageable and its a neat car.
 
Eric.
The only setup changes you may want with the Mustang is to change the front ARB to medium and the rear to none. The rest is fine tuning to manage the temperature (and therefore, grip) balance front to rear.

Eric, do you have any other fine tuning tips for the Stang? I've been considering joining one of the Grand Am races but wasn't too sure about tire wear over a 50 minute period. Those Riley's scare the crap out of me too. :)
 
I found this over at the iRacing forum and don't recall who wrote it, take it for what it's worth. I found some of the info valuable and some not so much. I ran the Mustang last season and had some success with it.

Fast Freddy
The biggest issue with this car is that the setups are so inconsistent from one driver to another. One fast guy could be using the base line setup while another fast guy may have hours of tuning on his car yet they both turn the same lap times. This stems from the horrid tires this car has on it. Which comes down to this, there is really no right or wrong setup as long as it works and feels comfortable to you. This will all change (I hope) when the NTM gets on this car as all the current setups might become completely useless.

Now this is my 3rd or 4th season with this car. Hell I cant remember. This is really the only car I drive currently. And to tell you the truth, I am still fighting and learned about the setup on this car. Again, for me it just comes from the crap tires on it. I could go into more detail on that subject but that is not what you are looking for.

So, I will give you some hints on this car as far as setup. What I will give you will not be the magic bullet and might not help you at all. But it should get you a good start. You can either call it crap, which in all accounts there is a good chance you might as again, the tires suck and the setup stuff I am going to give you might not work for your driving style.

First off, rebound is important and misunderstood in this car. The official Sach setup guide for this car is incorrect and inconsistent to how shocks really work. (yeah I dont get it either but there setup guide for this car was poorly writen and hard to comprehend. More on this if you like. PM me)

Front rebound should be in the negative and I would start around the -30 mark. Never go into the positive on the front as that is a sign you are doing something wrong driving the car or there is a setup issue somewhere else in the car.
Rear should be in the positive and again start at +30. Never go into the negative in the rear as its something you are doing wrong or a setup issue.
*Remember, rebound is the resistance of the shock expanding or becoming longer.

Front ARB should be Med and Rear ARB should be soft
Keep the ARB preload to 0 or as close as possible. after one change in the car the ARB preload will be off of 0. Reset it to 0 and continue tuning the car.

Toe- The rear should be either 1/16th or 2/16ths and the front stay at 0. No mater what others say the toe in the front stays at 0. That is a rule of thumb in alignment of RWD cars and is always that way unless the vehicle is a FWD.

Ride Height - Your on your own on this one, I cant give you all the answers. But as a tip, rake is good. Read up to understand.

Caster - Start off with it around 7 degrees and go from there. Read up on caster to understand how it works. Remember that caster settings create dynamic camber angles. The higher the caster degree the greater the camber dynamics

Camber - Figure this one out on your own. Every track is different
Tires - read Camber.

Shock Bump - Start the front out at 16 and go from there. The stiffer the rear the more stable the front will be but there are side effects to that. Read the setup guide linked above.

I hope this helps and if you have any questions I will be more then happy to help you. But I will not give you any setups.

Remember, setups are like finger prints, they are all different and all unique. I can try to help guide you to where you need to go
 
That's for the Mustang? Picked up another win today in the Caddy at Laguna, I was just trying to bump up my safety rating and Irating, and turns out I happened to pick up the win to. Which is nice. :p
 
Eric, do you have any other fine tuning tips for the Stang? I've been considering joining one of the Grand Am races but wasn't too sure about tire wear over a 50 minute period. Those Riley's scare the crap out of me too. :)

Try a 70 or 69% brake bias. 69% gets a lot looser, I don't like it that much, but apparently even at 69% (the most rearward setting), it still locks the front wheels first in a straight line. I tune camber based on how the tire is wearing, and I think I do 30f/29r tire pressures.

You may also need to tune the shocks a little to suit your driving. Increase the front rebound (also reduce the front bound) to get more weight to stay on the front. If its rotating too much on corner entry (off-throttle or braking) you can increase the rear rebound so that it doesn't unload as quickly.

Here's the last setup I was using. For Road America, but it'll work anywhere really. I don't remember if the tire pressures or camber were symmetrical, so take a look at that before you drive it.

http://www.racesetups.com/view/877
 
Thanks for the tips fellas! I'll try some new things out at Mosport since its a shorter lap; it will be easier to get the car dialed in.
 
left888
I found this over at the iRacing forum and don't recall who wrote it, take it for what it's worth. I found some of the info valuable and some not so much. I ran the Mustang last season and had some success with it.

That's really good info, I was in a practice session last season at Road atlanta and Trevor Smith was pretty much explaining all of that just like that. It really helped me. The biggest one is ARB preload 0 and crossweight at 50% give or take .02, but I always make it exactly 50%.

Another thing that I found out on my own is that using less right side caster than the left helps at Lime Rock only
 
I was a little disappointed on that note. Having multiple sticker packs on the NASCARS doesn't mean anything to me.

Looks like we're gonna get AWD and RWD Rufs though, so that'll be cool. Not that we need to split up participation further, though. RWD is definitely going to be tricky to get around a track, with 700hp or whatever.
 
I'm wondering how they will implement Direct x11. Will it be a graphical setting so people who use integrated graphics can still play with DX9 or will they make the graphical power just DX10/11.
 
I was a little disappointed on that note. Having multiple sticker packs on the NASCARS doesn't mean anything to me.

Looks like we're gonna get AWD and RWD Rufs though, so that'll be cool. Not that we need to split up participation further, though. RWD is definitely going to be tricky to get around a track, with 700hp or whatever.

It's not a sticker pack. In 2013 all of the Sprint cup cars are different compared to each other.

It was a really good read though. Can't wait for direct x 11 support should make day and night changes more feasible. I'd love I have some of these long 2 hours races at least change a little bit. Besides that I'm just waiting for super gt. which isn't gonna be any time soon. Participation is great in oval racing. I don't think I'll even look back at the road side anymore but for the fun long races and our up coming league thanks to jav
 
I was a little disappointed on that note. Having multiple sticker packs on the NASCARS doesn't mean anything to me.

Looks like we're gonna get AWD and RWD Rufs though, so that'll be cool. Not that we need to split up participation further, though. RWD is definitely going to be tricky to get around a track, with 700hp or whatever.
That was my initial thought, but at least it's a start... And with the BMW deal the options are limited so we might finally get a DTM car or another BMW race car that will compete with another manufacturer as we will already have GT2/GT3/BTCC cars wich is where BMW has a presence a a factory effort.
I'm wondering how they will implement Direct x11. Will it be a graphical setting so people who use integrated graphics can still play with DX9 or will they make the graphical power just DX10/11.

More than likely you'll be able to use lower settings resulting on better graphics than what you get now.
 
I think the most profitable venture for iRacing & BMW could be a BMW DTM car. There would be alot more Germans playing iRacing. Similar to the Aussies and the V8 supercar.
 
I'd like to see the ALMS M3 more than a DTM car.


Also, SpecMiata and anyone else running the Mustang. I just changed my last setup to use the firm front ARB and soft on the rear (up from med front and none on the rear) and it was nicer at Road America. It seems like you need to keep the front one setting stiffer than the rear, and at faster tracks like RA it seems to perform better.
 
I'm on the fence here... DTM would be awesome, but the GT-E BMW would be so so sweet! I guess the smartest move would be to go for DTM for the resons Blaze mentioned and that could also make it easier to bring in Audi and Mercedes as the DTM cars are essentially a Spec chassis right?
 
When you protest someone, how do you know for sure what happened to them? Ive sent in 2 legitimate protests and i get an email back that says "we have notified the member of the outcome". What was the outcome? lol, i guess they dont tell you.
 
Spa + Skippy = Awesome.

When you protest someone, how do you know for sure what happened to them? Ive sent in 2 legitimate protests and i get an email back that says "we have notified the member of the outcome". What was the outcome? lol, i guess they dont tell you.

Yes, they don't tell you. I think 99% of "outcomes" are merely standard "don't do it again" emails to the offender.

It's a bit of a conflict of interest to have those profiting from subscriptions being the judge of penalties, but it's probably not realistic to expect anything else.
 
If you get the "we have notified the member of the outcome" message that means the other person is receiving some form of punishment. It might be a warning, a suspension, or anything in-between.

When you get the "racing incident" message, that means they are not being punished and have rendered your protest invalid.
 
Eric did you qualify at all? Nice racing you sir. I skipped qualifying, started 19th, finished 9th.
 
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