Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[RJ83]

Reading all of the above is a reminder of why I’m on console and not pc!

I used to play on consoles exclusively too. I tried Assetto Corsa on PS4 with the Pro wheel. I was hooked on the driving physics! That game made me get a pc for the Assetto Corsa mods alone. Also for simcade rallying you can't beat the old Dirt 2 and Dirt 3 which work great with this wheel too on pc. I don't think there is a way to play those games on a console with this wheel. I still prefer the ease of use of consoles, but if you have the means then it doesn't hurt to take the best of both worlds.

 

[hawkeyez]

Just played some wreckfest with my GT7 wheel profile. Just about broke my wrists when somebody crashed into me the first time. Even turning I could tell it was almost double the strength. So the wheel is totally capable. I turned it down to 5.5nm and it feels good, maybe a bit heavier than GT7. So yeah PD has really nerfed the wheel imo.

 

[AEKara38]

Also for simcade rallying you can't beat the old Dirt 2 and Dirt 3 which work great with this wheel too on pc. I don't think there is a way to play those games on a console with this wheel.

I'm currently playing Dirt 3 with the G Pro wheel on my XSX. It works with most of my Backwards Compatible 360 games.

 

[Umit_O]

The down function on the switch of my wheel stopped working. Has anyone else had this problem too? I wonder if there is an easy way to fix it.

I had this twice, contacted Logitech and had a replacement wheel twice. Now on the third wheel for couple months. No issue so far.

 

[ArthurMorgan]

Hi all. I'm having real problems finding good settings for EA WRC with the pro wheel. I've tried the settings posted by LogiRich earlier in this thread and the recommended settings on the logitech website for the wheel, but the wheel felt far too heavy for rally. I dialled down the self aligning torque, wheel and tyre friction and tyre slip is at zero. (wheel set to 11nm). I've tried turning down the in-wheel strength but seems to make no difference like the game is overriding the in-wheel settings. Now I've got a looser wheel but I have lost a lot of detail in the feeling and seem to have real problems with over steer coming out of corners. Any tips would be appreciated please. At the moment the game felt better using my ancient G25 😕

 

[Met Entso]

The down function on the switch of my wheel stopped working. Has anyone else had this problem too? I wonder if there is an easy way to fix it.

Happened to me too, I fixed it With not the best solution, but it's working fine months after. If you search, there are some suggestions about products you can use some pages before.

 

[Dragonwhisky]

I just had a thought about the hoped for shifter for this kit.

I know Logitech makes unifying receivers for mice and keyboards. I wonder if the engineers at G have considered using that tech to connect other peripherals to the wheel? IIRC the wheel base has just 2 spare USB ports available for connecting the pedal set +1. What about that @LOGI_Rich . Huh? Huh? Have they? Shifter(s) H-Gate, Sequential & Hand Brake all connected with 1 dongle? Does that wireless tech have a fast enough data transfer rate? Edit- Hmm. Still gotta' have a source of power though and I'm pretty sure that ain't comin' through with the wireless signal. Pity.

As it stands right now, the connecting cable for the wheel to PS5 is a no go at this station. The one USB-C on the PS5 is taken up with the VR2 cable. The 2 superspeed USB-As on the back are currently filled with G29 and powered USB hub. Boo. Would only free up one of the As disconnecting the 29. Does anyone know if the G-Pro works through a USB-A to USB-C adapter? I suppose I could move the hub to the high speed A in the front. Still won't free up the USB-C though.

Bank account be all

 

[IfAndOr]

IIRC the wheel base has just 2 spare USB ports available for connecting the pedal set +1.

The base has 3 USB slots. There's still 2 free after connecting the peddle set. So that probably solves your "problem" in itself.

Does anyone know if the G-Pro works through a USB-A to USB-C adapter?

Can't see why not. Although just replacing the G29 will work in your case.

 

[Tm667]

Hello, everyone!

After a week of use, I don't know how I've done without a direct drive so far, and I could never go back.

I've never had the opportunity to drive a race car, but I've driven karts many times, and the intensity and precision of the Force Feedback, combined with Trueforce, make the G Pro experience incredibly close to the real thing.

However, there are a couple of aspects I still don't fully understand about brake and torque.

These are the data in millimeters on the available brake pedal travel adjustment:

18
24 (+6)
28 (+4)
29 (+1)
33 (+4)
39 (+6)

19
25 (+6)
29 (+4)
30 (+1)
34 (+4)
41 (+7)


Six millimeters between the first and second step feels like a too steep difference to me, I'd rather prefer two/four.

Any help?


About torque, I'd like to know if the maximum strength of the feedback effects (oversteer, for instance) always comes with a heavier steering wheel to turn.

Is there a correlation?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Igano]

We put the products through some very intensive reliability testing before we release them. As far as long term reliability goes, most of us on the dev team have wheels and pedals that have been in active daily use for more than two years now, if not longer in some cases; no issues.

@LOGI_Rich Oops I jinxed it! I connected my wheel for this week races (like every week). From the beginning I started noticing weird behaviors:

1st race the wheel was very very light
In the beginning of the 5th race the rotating button didnt work until I restarted the wheel.. Also the wheel was trembling a lot more than usual in a car that I have ran for 3.500 km (checked the bolts everything was alright).

In the end of the race I couldnt move the joystick type button on the right. I restarted the wheel and the problem didnt get fixed.

What do you think I should do? I am still under warranty.

 

[Dragonwhisky]

The base has 3 USB slots. There's still 2 free after connecting the peddle set. So that probably solves your "problem" in itself.


Can't see why not. Although just replacing the G29 will work in your case.

Pretty certain one of those three is for the cable that connects the wheel to the PS or PC. The cable that comes with it for that appears to be USB-C on one end. Currently my G29 plugs into a USB-A extension cable. I'm a fiend for cable management and don't like cables laying across my desk. There's probably an extension cable out there somewhere that's USB-A male to USB-C female. It's gotta be superspeed rated though.

 

[Haverstaken]

So, an update on this:

The down function on the switch of my wheel stopped working. Has anyone else had this problem too? I wonder if there is an easy way to fix it.

I used compressed air as suggested by RafalDybek, and it is working again 🙌
As I still have a few months of warranty left, I'll keep using it normally, but if the problem returns, then I guess I'll contact support to ask for a replacement.

I had this twice, contacted Logitech and had a replacement wheel twice. Now on the third wheel for couple months. No issue so far.

Wow, that's unlucky.. let's hope the third time is the charm haha.

 

[IfAndOr]

Pretty certain one of those three is for the cable that connects the wheel to the PS or PC.

No that's a separate cable, a mini USB A in fact. And it's USB A on the other end, not C. So as I said it'll plug into your G29 port.
Still got 3 type A on the back of the base. 1 for the peddles and 2 spare for the "being worked on" accessories. 😉

I have got a couple of USB C to A adaptors off Amazon, one of which I have plugged into the PS5. Works just fine for those occasions when I need an extra A port.


If you want to extend the base to PS/PC cable (A male to A female), an active one is recommended. It'll help keep the signal strength higher.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Igano Too early to call that a faulty wheel - there's a couple more steps of troubleshooting that you need to perform before that conclusion is reached:

• Quit game, Restart PS5 and power the wheel on only when you're at the profile login screen
• Try a different title

 

[ArthurMorgan]

@LOGI_Rich - would appreciate any help you could give me with EA WRC settings please. (I posted a query above here) I'm struggling to get a good balance. It seems like a dark art trying to find a sweet spot. I've seen your previous screenshot of the in game settings, but it felt way too heavy to me - almost impossible to control the car at that weight when rally is all about very fast steering adjustments to control drifts/sliding on dirt. I'm also confused if I should be leaving the in-wheel settings at 11nm & what the rotation angle should be - some places I've seen 1080, some 900 and in game there is then calibration and saturation to adjust as well. thanks

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@ArthurMorgan It's all subjective - set the strength on the wheel to where it feels comfortable for you and then see how it feels; you might then need to adjust other in-game settings to boost them back up so you notice them more.

As for angle leave it at 1080, because then when you perform the in-game calibration it will automatically set the correct operating range for each car, complete with soft stops at the range limits. Don't do anything with the saturation.

 

[ArthurMorgan]

@ArthurMorgan It's all subjective - set the strength on the wheel to where it feels comfortable for you and then see how it feels; you might then need to adjust other in-game settings to boost them back up so you notice them more.

As for angle leave it at 1080, because then when you perform the in-game calibration it will automatically set the correct operating range for each car, complete with soft stops at the range limits. Don't do anything with the saturation.

Thank you, much appreciated. At least I know where to start now with the in-wheel settings. I'm sure I'll find a sweet spot with the in game settings knowing that I've not messed things up on the wheel now!

 

[krille_r]

@LOGI_Rich Hi man! Can i adjust the break dead zone in g-hub? And if so, how?
The brake activates when im resting my foot on it in acc quite often. And I cant find a setting for dead zone in-game.
There is such an option, but it seems to affect the max input of the brake, not the low input

Edit: im on ps5

 

[Dankostone]

@ArthurMorgan It's all subjective - set the strength on the wheel to where it feels comfortable for you and then see how it feels; you might then need to adjust other in-game settings to boost them back up so you notice them more.

As for angle leave it at 1080, because then when you perform the in-game calibration it will automatically set the correct operating range for each car, complete with soft stops at the range limits. Don't do anything with the saturation.

Hi!
Is there a difference between:
- Setting the strenght on the wheel to 11nm and reducing "self aligning torque" in the game
And
- Lowering the strenght on the wheel to 7nm and increasing "self aligning torque" in the game?

Some people told me it's better to leave the wheel setting at 11nm and adjust the FFB in the game.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@krille_r There's no deadzone adjustment that is saved in the wheel - we rely on the games. In ACC PS5's case this unfortunately means that you can't set a lower deadzone (something that is available on the PC version). The only thing you can do here is to increase the brake force setting to eliminate that slight input that resting your foot is providing.

@Dankostone Generally it's recommended to set the strength on the wheel and then adjust further within the game's settings - GT7 is the one exception here due to the way it loads its FFB strength on game startup, ignoring the wheel setting until its adjusted. WRC's an unusual case because whilst most titles have an overall FFB gain setting, WRC does not (same with DR2.0), but still the same recommendation applies - set the strength you want on the wheel and then adjust further in the game.

 

[nobuffalo]

I am experiencing a sometimes non-responsive and sometimes overly responsive joystick on the wheel. Only when trying to scroll down I believe. I haven't tried canned air or anything of the sort yet for a fix nor have I tried to contact Logitech yet. Restarting the system or game doesn't resolve anything.

And slightly unrelated but I'm surprised Logitech has not released any information yet on a new shifter of any other accessories. Quite disappointing but also a good learning experience as a consumer or whatever.

 

[GTF_Max]

@LOGI_Rich Have You already tried the Fanatec DD Extreme? Is it nerfed to max 7Nm like my Logi Pro? If it isn´t. Are Your army of lawyers already heading to PD hq?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@nobuffalo do try the compressed air trick. As for new product announcements, they will come when the products are ready to ship.

@GTF_Max No its not limited, but taking it to full strength is also not recommended in high downforce cars - the centre oscillation issue is VERY real if you do. We will continue to discuss this with Polyphony, who are aware of this thread.

 

[GTF_Max]

@nobuffalo do try the compressed air trick. As for new product announcements, they will come when the products are ready to ship.

@GTF_Max No its not limited, but taking it to full strength is also not recommended in high downforce cars - the centre oscillation issue is VERY real if you do. We will continue to discuss this with Polyphony, who are aware of this thread.

I drive with Comfort Soft cars with clutch and shifter with my left hands thum and one finger. 🤬

 

[surly]

@LOGI_Rich any chance you have some settings handy for richard burns rally/rallysimfans?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I'm afraid not. We don't own a copy and the current method of getting hold of it... well let's just say that there's no way our system admins would allow torrents, which is the only method for getting it on RSF.

Recommendations from various people seem to suggest running wheels at max torque, applying a decent amount of dampener in wheel settings (some say 100%!!) and reducing the FFB Filter to minimum. For in-game... well everyone seems to disagree on that and without being able to try it I can't give you any guidance, I'm afraid.

 

[Yes No]

@IfAndOr A few weeks ago you gave me a lot of great advice regarding my dumb butt ordering the wrong setup.... I thought I was buying the PS/PC version but ended up with the DD11 pc only version. I just wanted to give you an update on my setup.

I ended up keeping the PC only version. I barely touched it, maybe 15 minutes at the most, since I received it.

@Podger contacted me and gave me a bunch of great advice and also helped me with getting a drivehub.

The drivehub is now 100% compatible with the pro wheel and pedals (pretty sure all versions) and fully works with the PS and Xbox consoles! Yes, trueforce works perfectly in GT7! I made a post on Reddit about it and made 2 videos that are in that post that demonstrate the pro wheel, pedals and trueforce are 100% working in GT7. Here is a link if you are interested:

https://www.reddit.com/r/granturismo/s/Ge9zrvqdsB

 

[IfAndOr]

Good to hear @Yes No. It's great that you're now getting the full benefits out of the Pro. You've ended up having to pay a little extra, but then you probably paid a little less for the PC wheel, so that would balance it out.

I hope you enjoy it. 👍

 

[Yes No]

@IfAndOr Thanks! I am super happy with this! I think I've spent more time talking about it versus using it lol. I'm just amazed at how well this works and excited about being able to use a shifter like the TH8A and the TH8S along with the pro wheel and pedals using the drivehub.

 

[tyoungbl]

@IfAndOr A few weeks ago you gave me a lot of great advice regarding my dumb butt ordering the wrong setup.... I thought I was buying the PS/PC version but ended up with the DD11 pc only version. I just wanted to give you an update on my setup.

I ended up keeping the PC only version. I barely touched it, maybe 15 minutes at the most, since I received it.

@Podger contacted me and gave me a bunch of great advice and also helped me with getting a drivehub.

The drivehub is now 100% compatible with the pro wheel and pedals (pretty sure all versions) and fully works with the PS and Xbox consoles! Yes, trueforce works perfectly in GT7! I made a post on Reddit about it and made 2 videos that are in that post that demonstrate the pro wheel, pedals and trueforce are 100% working in GT7. Here is a link if you are interested:

https://www.reddit.com/r/granturismo/s/Ge9zrvqdsB

Well... guess I'll have to give forza another shot then. I have the ps5 base and last time when using drivehub and xbx there was no feedback