Logitech G29 settings for GT7

  • Thread starter CustomX
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Alright so… I got the G29 racing wheel with the seat and the shifter and the pedals; the bundle kit that came with GTS. So, I can’t get it to work for drifting, at all… I’ve looked up many solutions and stuff but could never get around to properly drift with the wheel. I’ve even tried with other games such as CarX Drifting and NFS Heat. Any suggestions on what the problem may be? Also, the manual shifter seems to only be able to shift in 2nd, 4th and 6th, unless I pull the wire in a VERY SPECIFIC position. And now, the wire trick doesn’t work. Anyone have similar issues and know how to solve them? I tried taking the shifter apart to see but… it didn’t seem like it had anything wrong… any help would be so greatly appreciated!
 
CustomX
Please feed back best G29 settings here
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I purchased new G29 , from day 1 when I press the gas pedal it also causes the brakes to come on. If I feather the gas several times the brakes release and I can go, but tis is causing me to lose races, come around a corner, throttle up and I get brake and gas, start slowing down. Logitech support only had one suggestion, unplug it, plug it in, try again. Eventually Logitech support said to return it and had no other solutions. Online there were references to disassemble and clean potentiometers in the pedals, but this was new and I did not want to go there. I am sad as I have no steering wheel. The Thrustmaster I purchased worked 1 time, and the next time it was dead with no power - so it got returned.
SO - my question is, it seesm like you all are happy using a G29 - is there a trick to the settings in GT7 ?
I want to try again.
 
Works fine, FFB on kerbs only downside.
I don't think is a compatibility or wheel issue, just programming. Some kerbs have effect on FFB, others is like the wheels never left the smooth tarmac, very weird.
Otherwise work smoothly, no issue at all configuring and setting button assignment
 
generic00
I purchased new G29 , from day 1 when I press the gas pedal it also causes the brakes to come on. If I feather the gas several times the brakes release and I can go, but tis is causing me to lose races, come around a corner, throttle up and I get brake and gas, start slowing down. Logitech support only had one suggestion, unplug it, plug it in, try again. Eventually Logitech support said to return it and had no other solutions. Online there were references to disassemble and clean potentiometers in the pedals, but this was new and I did not want to go there. I am sad as I have no steering wheel. The Thrustmaster I purchased worked 1 time, and the next time it was dead with no power - so it got returned.
SO - my question is, it seesm like you all are happy using a G29 - is there a trick to the settings in GT7 ?
I want to try again.
Click to expand...

The potentiometer situation, as you say, manifests after some use, in my case after about three years of use, but some people, specially people with pets like cats or dogs, it is sooner. The problem usually is your gas or brake pedal actuation not reflecting the pedal position. In my case, never had problems with the brake, it was the gas not going full throttle, dispite putting the pedal to the floor. This is because dust, dirt and hair goes inside the potentiometer contacts zone, messing with it. As there is a potentiometer and wiring for each pedal, there shouldn't be interference between gas and brake. Maybe some wiring insulation or a faulty plug could cause that, IDK.
If you have the possibility to try another pedal set from a friend, just to be sure, it would be the best solution.
If you plug your G29 through a USB expansion HUB, try to plug it directly to console, I had issues with this hubs and the wheel connectivity becaming unstable.
 
pedrocor
The potentiometer situation, as you say, manifests after some use, in my case after about three years of use, but some people, specially people with pets like cats or dogs, it is sooner. The problem usually is your gas or brake pedal actuation not reflecting the pedal position. In my case, never had problems with the brake, it was the gas not going full throttle, dispite putting the pedal to the floor. This is because dust, dirt and hair goes inside the potentiometer contacts zone, messing with it. As there is a potentiometer and wiring for each pedal, there shouldn't be interference between gas and brake. Maybe some wiring insulation or a faulty plug could cause that, IDK.
If you have the possibility to try another pedal set from a friend, just to be sure, it would be the best solution.
If you plug your G29 through a USB expansion HUB, try to plug it directly to console, I had issues with this hubs and the wheel connectivity becaming unstable.
Click to expand...
Thank you pedrocor, I now feel encouraged to try again.
I did plug directly into USB at front of console. Next I will concentrate on the connectors, the wires.
When the G29 worked, I really liked it. Just need to sort out the pedals. And I will not give up.
No pets here so the device and potentiometers should hopefully stay clean for a while.
I will purchase another one and try again.
 
i set my g29 being the first setting i used 3. any thing more or less even by 1 notch seemed exaggerated. i set the second setting to 5. i previously used 1 and 10 and took me a little to get to the better 3 and 5 i use now. in a real car you shouldn't have the tires pull you back and forth and fight the wheel as well as hold the line. even my old maverick without power steering is smooth as butter in real life. when i hit the 302 WOT with 275hp.320tq, it still floats through with some feedback but not enough to strain a thumb lol

try 3 and 5 see what you think. also be sure to calibrate pedals and wheel first thing each time you fire the game up. this is very very necessary as it doesnt seem to hold in memory. its found on the big map upper left hand . click that then options, then controllers, and calibrate.
 
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flair1111
i set my g29 being the first setting i used 3. any thing more or less even by 1 notch seemed exaggerated. i set the second setting to 5. i previously used 1 and 10 and took me a little to get to the better 3 and 5 i use now. in a real car you shouldn't have the tires pull you back and forth and fight the wheel as well as hold the line. even my old maverick without power steering is smooth as butter in real life. when i hit the 302 WOT with 275hp.320tq, it still floats through with some feedback but not enough to strain a thumb lol

try 3 and 5 see what you think. also be sure to calibrate pedals and wheel first thing each time you fire the game up. this is very very necessary as it doesnt seem to hold in memory. its found on the big map upper left hand . click that then options, then controllers, and calibrate.
Click to expand...
Are you on PS4 or PS5? On PS4 it seems to remember my calibration, mostly for the brake pedal which by default topped at like 60%
 
I use 2/4 because I read that was optimal on racing sim site. It said anything more and the wheel will clip. It feels too light to me but I want to be optimal for what I have. I find the ffb terrible though. It picks and chooses when you feel bumps and if you are rolling backwards after a crash the wheel starts vibrating really loud going 1km/h and it's annoying. I think maybe the one guy who works on it in the credits spent too much time on the dual sense controller and their are a lot of other better licensed wheels now with the g29 now being entry level that got more attention. I wish they just had more settings like Project Cars or Assetto Corsa so someone can make it better.
 
kraftwerkd
Yes, I've been experiencing a similar issue. I don't use the shifter attachment so I just shift with the paddles. If you press down the clutch pedal and then hit a paddle it drops it into neutral. I've just been flat-foot shifting sans clutch for now. PS4 & G29.
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I might be wrong here but you will notice some cars have a clutch and shifter and some have sequential shifters. In the tuning shop you can buy a custom trans with a shift stick and clutch or the custom racing trans with sequential gears. So I think the car has to actually have a shift stick installed or present in game in order for you to use it. It's more realistic.
 
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CustomX
I've tried plugging it into different USB ports on the PS5. Doesn't seem to make much difference. I'm gusing an extension cable between the G29 and the PS5. Will order a new one and hopefully that'll make a difference. Should I be getting a USB 2 cable? or USB 3?
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Ringmeister
Cables is not the problem imho, I connected g29 directly into ps5 port, all of them and nothing change. I noticed that it happen when you start ps5 with the wheel already plugged and the console assign both as controller 1. If you plug the g29 after you launch gt7 works fine... 🤔
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This is an old thread but if anyone is still having random disconnect issues with the G29 and the PS5 this is how I solved my issues.

I had the G29 plugged in using a USB3 extension cable into one of the rear USB ports. Through other site, someone recommended that any extension cable should be USB2 only and it should be plugged into the front USB-A port which is USB2 only. I did this and since then there have been no more random disconnects and my wheel is stable now.

Apparently, have the G29 plugged into USB3 using USB3 cables can cause issues.
 
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TheNormsk
This is an old thread but if anyone is still having random disconnect issues with the G29 and the PS5 this is how I solved my issues.

I had the G29 plugged in using a USB3 extension cable into one of the rear USB ports. Through other site, someone recommended that any extension cable should be USB2 only and it should be plugged into the front USB-A port which is USB2 only. I did this and since then there have been no more random disconnects and my wheel is stable now.

Apparently, have the G29 plugged into USB3 using USB3 cables can cause issues.
Click to expand...
I had similar experience. A month or two ago I started getting random disconnects while playing GT7 with the G29. This is not a good thing while playing Sport mode.

I changed to no extension and plugged the cable from the wheel into the front port without an extension. I’m sure I haven’t had a disconnect since.
 
For those using a G29, have any of you found a better feel for braking or acceleration by tweaking with the controller default settings.

I guess mostly I am looking for suggestions on the braking (from those who don't have the True-Brake or other mod).

Is the 5% min and 60% max working for you?

I tend to hover (every so slightly) over the brake rather than let my foot rest on it, so I set the braking minimum to 0%. I find it easier to trailbrake.
 
newb1017
For those using a G29, have any of you found a better feel for braking or acceleration by tweaking with the controller default settings.

I guess mostly I am looking for suggestions on the braking (from those who don't have the True-Brake or other mod).

Is the 5% min and 60% max working for you?

I tend to hover (every so slightly) over the brake rather than let my foot rest on it, so I set the braking minimum to 0%. I find it easier to trailbrake.
Click to expand...
I haven’t noticed anything about the acceleration when messing with the % values. As for the brakes I run 4% dead zone and anywhere between like 45-75% on the top end depending on the track and/or car. For example with GR2/GR1 (high downforce) I run more towards the 45% since those type of vehicles like quick hard braking and less trailbraking to maintain the downforce. Or tracks with a lot of hard braking zones. If the track is more “flowing “ like say Willow Springs (big) this week and requires more trail braking then I will be at 60-70%.
Hopefully this makes sense and not just rambling on🍻
 
ILLEAGLE_34
I haven’t noticed anything about the acceleration when messing with the % values. As for the brakes I run 4% dead zone and anywhere between like 45-75% on the top end depending on the track and/or car. For example with GR2/GR1 (high downforce) I run more towards the 45% since those type of vehicles like quick hard braking and less trailbraking to maintain the downforce. Or tracks with a lot of hard braking zones. If the track is more “flowing “ like say Willow Springs (big) this week and requires more trail braking then I will be at 60-70%.
Hopefully this makes sense and not just rambling on🍻
Click to expand...
Makes perfect sense to me. Especially on the 2nd example where various degrees of braking are required you have increased your travel range prior to 100% braking and thus can be more precise on braking percentages. When I messed with 40% I found that for trailbraking I was either too heavy or off all together. It often felt "stuck" and I lost momentum instead of keeping it.

But, no wonder as I was trying to squeeze 100% of braking ranges into 40% of travel when I needed to be precise with a slow and smooth release.

I think this is one of the reasons that the True-Brake mod didn't suit me. I liked the load vs travel, but the load range was so small/tight that I could not adjust smoothly and consistently enough to take advantage of the better system. I can see why good drivers love it, though.
 
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Where are this settings? On computer?
newb1017
For those using a G29, have any of you found a better feel for braking or acceleration by tweaking with the controller default settings.

I guess mostly I am looking for suggestions on the braking (from those who don't have the True-Brake or other mod).

Is the 5% min and 60% max working for you?

I tend to hover (every so slightly) over the brake rather than let my foot rest on it, so I set the braking minimum to 0%. I find it easier to trailbrake.
Click to expand...
 
VivaMidnight
Has anyone worked this out or seen it mentioned anywhere else? I'm also on g29 on PS4 Pro and have absolutely no road feel, can't feel curbs, I have no idea if the car is about to break traction and spin. I just can't enjoy the game in this state.. Hope someone sees these posts!
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The default settings in GT7 for easy and normal mode are to have steering assistance and braking assistance switched on. This means you will rarely oversteer or brake too heavy, which means little or no force feedback ever. Switch steering assistance and braking assistance off and your G29 will spring to life.
 
Bram24
Turns out my clutch pedal is now the brake pedal... How can you change that? I can't seem to assign pedals, only the steering wheel buttons. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
You change it in Logitech G Hub go to pedals it's bottom tab on left and unlock the button that says combine pedals
 
My two cents:
Torque: 7 and Sensitivity: 10 works best for me when driving Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars. But I had some occasions in which other car/track combinations resulted in too much rumble to sense the car's behaviour properly.

Controller Sensitivity I have on '3'. It was on '0' by default and I was absolutely nowhere when the rear broke lose. On '3' it's snappier and easier to correct mistakes. I read a lot about CS on '5' being the best, but with the G29 I feel the teeth of the gears too much then. CS on 3 makes might be a bit more floaty, but feels smoother to me.
 
DonRoquefort
My two cents:
Torque: 7 and Sensitivity: 10 works best for me when driving Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars. But I had some occasions in which other car/track combinations resulted in too much rumble to sense the car's behaviour properly.

Controller Sensitivity I have on '3'. It was on '0' by default and I was absolutely nowhere when the rear broke lose. On '3' it's snappier and easier to correct mistakes. I read a lot about CS on '5' being the best, but with the G29 I feel the teeth of the gears too much then. CS on 3 makes might be a bit more floaty, but feels smoother to me.
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The wheel physically can't do 7 torque. People need to understand this to get the most out of it. The G29 will do 3 maybe 4 but that's pushing it. The wheel has 100% potential so you can't expect 130%. It isn't a possibility. You will lose all feeling of the road and the wheel isn't supposed to be THAT heavy all the time. Sure you can do it but you are missing out on valuable info, the ability to save yourself from snap oversteer and also you are developing bad habits. That's why the other wheels are much more expensive. The g29 is good if you utilize it properly.
 
JerryVance
The wheel physically can't do 7 torque. People need to understand this to get the most out of it. The G29 will do 3 maybe 4 but that's pushing it. The wheel has 100% potential so you can't expect 130%. It isn't a possibility. You will lose all feeling of the road and the wheel isn't supposed to be THAT heavy all the time. Sure you can do it but you are missing out on valuable info, the ability to save yourself from snap oversteer and also you are developing bad habits. That's why the other wheels are much more expensive. The g29 is good if you utilize it properly.
Click to expand...

I'll give the lower torque settings a try then!
 
CustomX
Please feed back best G29 settings here
Click to expand...
after about 5 months on the wheel, ive settled on 2 for first setting and 5 on second. i also read to use 5 on controller setting too. this keeps clipping in feedback from happening and over exagerating. this finally feels right to me.takes a little getting used to the less stiff wheel on curves, but it allows me to "feel" the tires break a lot better.
 
I'm going to do some quasi science experiments to see if changing the controller sensitivity does anything. I don't think it does anything for the wheel because well, it's not a controller. Just the same as my wheel sensitivity would have no bearing on the controller. I just see so much information that's probably false or at best placebo effects. I'll do it with wheel and controller on with all the variations I can think of and then only with the wheel on. I usually turn my dualshock off while playing though. Should be easy to see in an open wheel car when you turn the wheel and are stationary. The settings I use are FFB 3 and Sensitivity 1 for more detailed steering inputs. I'll check the vibration on controller which again I'm pretty sure has zero effect because again its not a controller. Wish me luck in my research.
 
JerryVance
I'm going to do some quasi science experiments to see if changing the controller sensitivity does anything. I don't think it does anything for the wheel because well, it's not a controller. Just the same as my wheel sensitivity would have no bearing on the controller. I just see so much information that's probably false or at best placebo effects. I'll do it with wheel and controller on with all the variations I can think of and then only with the wheel on. I usually turn my dualshock off while playing though. Should be easy to see in an open wheel car when you turn the wheel and are stationary. The settings I use are FFB 3 and Sensitivity 1 for more detailed steering inputs. I'll check the vibration on controller which again I'm pretty sure has zero effect because again its not a controller. Wish me luck in my research.
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Very interested to hear what your thoughts/opinions are after your testing. I have done the same many times. I’ll share my thoughts after your done testing. I don’t want to poison the well as they say. 🍻

Side note, drifting a car with the controller works well for me to notice the changes.
High downforce cars work well for testing the wheel settings.
I’m on a ps4 with a G29 🍻
 
wendle73
i can’t seam to correct any oversteer with my wheel, any advice in settings would be appreciated thanx
Click to expand...

I’ve found it to be easier to catch a slide/ correct oversteer using lighter FFB/ffs setting’s. Since you have to react very quickly with a wheel the lower settings help you with not wheel.
Here’s what use (g29)
Controller sensitivity 10
Force feedback torque 2-4
Force feedback sensitivity 1-3
🍻
 

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