Patch Release Notes and Discussion Thread

[diesel97]

Good read ^^^^ what doesnt make sense is bring the tire temps up slowly , this makes sense on a cold (blue) tire but if the tire is coming off the warmers then this doesnt make sense. The warmers are going to heat the tires all the way through no ?

 

[JohnScoonsBeard]

I was thinking earlier that an epic practise session with loads of us would be a laugh. Just cruising round doing some laps and whatnot. If there was a way to create a practise session where anyone could bring any car they liked that'd be awesome, seeing all the different cars driving round.

EDIT: and it could be called... A track day! Is there a game out there where this is possible?

You can do a track day in Project Cars. We ran one in CRAP a few months ago.

I ran it at Snetterton 200, set the car class to any, set race laps to 1 and practice to 30 minutes. Damage was on full, all aids allowed. So every 30 mins there was a free for all mad dash 1 lapper. Then we changed cars and repeated. If you wanted to change car before 30 mins was up you just exited and re entered the room. It was even run in a public room and generally non members understood what was going on and behaved too. We had Formula A, Go karts, GT1, road cars etc all on track at the same time.

 

[ozwheels]

Thanks for the video, but yeah that set up isn't helping you. Obviously you didn't realise the front camber, and as it's broken, all it does is slow you down, and put more heat into the tyres when they're loaded up, which explains your much higher front temps than rears.

If you were getting that much more front temp than rear, I'd say you were scrubbing the fronts, but seeing that camber level, and as we can't see your steering input, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, as it looks like you're driving smoothly in the laps where you're trying to be conservative.

One thing I did notice though, was in your conservative laps, your inputs looked smoother (again, can't tell about the steering input, but the car's attitude suggested smooth), but you were sustaining almost identical peak loads to your harder laps. When I was testing, I noticed I could be silky smooth, but putting too much lateral load on the tyres would still heat them up, especially if those loads were sustained in long corners. I was purposely allowing a little bit of room for the tyres, and not running the fronts close to the grip limit. Opening up the steering angle a bit, and only going slightly slower to allow it, was losing me less than a second per lap, but doing so allowed my temps to drop over the course of a lap by 10C, so keeping them level would allow even less conservation.

As for your set up, obviously you know where the camber should be, but also try increasing your rake angle, as this will give you a more positive front end in slow to medium corners, and will aid downforce. The added rake will mean you won't need those 2 degrees of negative toe on the front. Toe only gives you more initial turn in, which I hate, because right after that extra initial turn in, you will start scrubbing the fronts if you're not careful, as it gives you the impression of more front grip than you actually have. So use other settings to get a stronger front end, and get rid of the toe, as it will also add to your temps even if you're not scrubbing.

I also read this interesting post on the official forum:

"I get the impression from a lot of people that as soon as they come out of the pits, they just start driving hard like they did prior to patch 6.0. Beforehand, there was no preparation of the tyres for quali laps, and people were just going quickly as soon as they drive out the pits because the grip is already there and heat was never an issue. Nicholas Hamilton posted a fantastic post on WMD2 a while back (I'd like to quote it and put it in here for people to read if that's allowed?), but basically he was saying how fragile a brand new set of tyres are, and require heat cycles and care for the first couple of laps to build up towards a flying lap once the tyres and brakes are properly bedded in. Something we didn't need to do until now. I've half tested it with taking the outlap very easy, and then going harder on lap 2 and hoping to get the bast qualy lap on my 3rd or 4th lap of a run. Even from that I found the temperatures to be more manageable and don't increase quite as quickly. Obviously it still requires car and smooth inputs on the actual lap, but the pace and grip is better than if driving out the box and going from the off. The later just seems to flash heat the rubber, which is only going to make things worse if it's constantly happening with scrubbing and the tyres not having time to recover and cool down effectively. Basically you end up starting with good grip, flash heat, less grip, more steering lock, more scrubbing, more flash heat, further less grip, more steering lock and more scrubbing, which basically just goes on and on, snowballing producing poor lap times and very hot tyres. Take it easier on the first few laps, and then slowly build up the pace and the gentle progression of heat in the tyre will bed them in nicely giving you the grip and more stable temperatures you need. In the words of Nicholas Hamilton in that post: 'Allow the tyre to BRING you the time, instead of you trying to DRIVE for the time.'"

I'm not sure about heat cycling tires that are already at the optimal temperature when you leave the pits. Maybe for cars that start with cold tires.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Heat cycling do not work that way, often the tires need 24 hours off time at the very least ( not driven / cure time ) to get the benefits after being heat cycled for 10-15 minutes for the first time ( break in )

The real question is does the tires in Pcars have been initially heat cycled when used at the track ? Heat cycle machine existed in real to help people get their tires ready from the get go Maybe in Pcars drivers need to heat cycle themselves ... I don't think that's possible as there's no tire management feature to store heat cycled tires So, it may not be simulated.

I think Nick Hamilton got it wrong about the heat cycle, he probably meant slowly building up heat on cold tires.


Heat cycle largely related to wear, a properly heat cycled racing tire could last 50% longer than non heat cycled tire.

Heat cycle also sometimes called as scrubbing and as far as I know, it also gives more consistent performance and more durable under heavy stress.

 

[NLxAROSA]

So, with 6.1 out on PC, we now also have confirmation that 6.2 and 7.0 are underway.

 

[Zakspeed_TV]

Its plane to see @ozwheels its your driving style your just not smooth enough

I ran lots of different cars yesterday with no real problems, GT3 tho im only giving 70-80% and there is no race pace in the tyres, not down to steering lock, tuning or driving style, the tyres heat way before there limit its that simple 👍
There is improvement but its gone to far on GT3

 

[bleeder]

My friend came over and predicatably destroyed the front tyres on his SP/300 in about 2 laps due to his driving technique of extreme late braking followed by violent turn in. As I knew he would. Wasn't anywhere near as bad as that before the patch though.

My 12C fared better round Dubai or Bathurst but were also ruined at Sonoma or Catalunya, for example. I like the idea but am also thinking the high track temps combined with the new tyre model is not helping.

 

[ozwheels]

So, with 6.1 out on PC, we now also have confirmation that 6.2 and 7.0 are underway.

Does SMS think the new tires are ok?

 

[azidahaka]

Its plane to see @ozwheels its your driving style your just not smooth enough

I ran lots of different cars yesterday with no real problems, GT3 tho im only giving 70-80% and there is no race pace in the tyres, not down to steering lock, tuning or driving style, the tyres heat way before there limit its that simple 👍
There is improvement but its gone to far on GT3

The more i train the more i'm sure that it's ok and normal... Run Online at BRNO, Watkins Glen, no problems with softs in the sun of june for 30 mins. Must be the way i setup car...

BTW lobbies are a lot cleaner now i had 3 races with no massive pileups on first corners! Maybe rammers are gone after this update LOL

 

[ozwheels]

The more i train the more i'm sure that it's ok and normal... Run Online at BRNO, Watkins Glen, no problems with softs in the sun of june for 30 mins. Must be the way i setup car...

BTW lobbies are a lot cleaner now i had 3 races with no massive pileups on first corners! Maybe rammers are gone after this update LOL

I think it comes down to lap times and corner speed. In my video you can see a big difference in tire temps when you take different approaches to corners and go slower.

 

[NLxAROSA]

Does SMS think the new tires are ok?

Can't speak for them of course, but I think they do.

I'm usually very keen on reporting possible issues and rallying/making a case at WMD, especially if it's backed by knowledgeable users, but I find it very hard at this time, because there are very knowledgeable and fast drivers on either side of the spectrum. It's not as clear-cut as the camber issue, where basically everyone agreed that something was off.

 

[Over Active]

Does SMS think the new tires are ok?

You mad Oz! How dare you ask such a question. They think its the second coming! Reaction after the latest patch over at SMS.

Between SMS developers and senior guy's on the other forum it absolutely astonishing how the attack constructive criticism of there latest patch. You have dev's posting screen shots of green tires after long straights and showing there laps time's from previous laps. But not the lap there on.

If you have a issue screen shots are not good enough. The want video clip's with analyses of your problem. But its only a trap to condone your driving.

It's a absolute laugh over there. PRIDE it really kills you from inside SMS.

 

[Zakspeed_TV]

Can't speak for them of course, but I think they do.

I'm usually very keen on reporting possible issues and rallying/making a case at WMD, especially if it's backed by knowledgeable users, but I find it very hard at this time, because there are very knowledgeable and fast drivers on either side of the spectrum. It's not as clear-cut as the camber issue, where basically everyone agreed that something was off.

All the fast knowledgeable guys i know are saying the same thing 👍

 

[Elitekilla29]

So, with 6.1 out on PC, we now also have confirmation that 6.2 and 7.0 are underway.

Wait, AI strength settings? Is he talking about the AI aggression slider that they was talking about adding over the summer?

 

[NLxAROSA]

Not really sure to be honest, perhaps someone with more indepth knowledge can chime in.

 

[mr_serious]

Can't speak for them of course, but I think they do.

I'm usually very keen on reporting possible issues and rallying/making a case at WMD, especially if it's backed by knowledgeable users, but I find it very hard at this time, because there are very knowledgeable and fast drivers on either side of the spectrum. It's not as clear-cut as the camber issue, where basically everyone agreed that something was off.

The other possibility that people don't seem to be considering is that it might be another example of SMS' super robust development and maintenance methodology.

When 6.0 was released I fired it up again for the first time since the first week that 5.0 came out. I had never yet since the games release seen any tyre overheating (whether it was my smooth driving style or several of my friends, some of whom have a very aggressive style).

So I saw all these complaints about how the tyres heat too fast and tried it out. Mine were pretty much locked at 97- 100ºC no matter what I tried; Driving slow, driving fast, locking wheels at every corner, spinning wheels at every exit, flooring the throttle and doing 180º spins. I did that in GT3 cars on softs, road cars and Formula A.

Getting no overheating at all I decided to verify the game cache in steam. It identifed 3 files totalling 748kb that failed validation and re-downloaded them. Afterwards I finally experienced temperature changes.

However those changes are fairly mild and easy to control. Redoing all the locking, spinning, spins and general tyre abuse I am still only able to get the tyres to a dark orange at most (except when I lost a left front, and spent 5 minutes spinning the rear right tyre until it finally went red)

I saw a post on the official forums from a guy who had been experiencing rapid heating, who said he eventually deleted the game and re-installed it, re-patched it & now finds the temp issue OK.

Given how random SMS' non-deterministic code appears to be have you tried it when the wind is blowing from the North rather than any other direction? It seems just as likely to have an affect as any actual coding changes they might make.

 

[ozwheels]

The other possibility that people don't seem to be considering is that it might be another example of SMS' super robust development and maintenance methodology.

When 6.0 was released I fired it up again for the first time since the first week that 5.0 came out. I had never yet since the games release seen any tyre overheating (whether it was my smooth driving style or several of my friends, some of whom have a very aggressive style).

So I saw all these complaints about how the tyres heat too fast and tried it out. Mine were pretty much locked at 97- 100ºC no matter what I tried; Driving slow, driving fast, locking wheels at every corner, spinning wheels at every exit, flooring the throttle and doing 180º spins. I did that in GT3 cars on softs, road cars and Formula A.

Getting no overheating at all I decided to verify the game cache in steam. It identifed 3 files totalling 748kb that failed validation and re-downloaded them. Afterwards I finally experienced temperature changes.

However those changes are fairly mild and easy to control. Redoing all the locking, spinning, spins and general tyre abuse I am still only able to get the tyres to a dark orange at most (except when I lost a left front, and spent 5 minutes spinning the rear right tyre until it finally went red)

I saw a post on the official forums from a guy who had been experiencing rapid heating, who said he eventually deleted the game and re-installed it, re-patched it & now finds the temp issue OK.

Given how random SMS' non-deterministic code appears to be have you tried it when the wind is blowing from the North rather than any other direction? It seems just as likely to have an affect as any actual coding changes they might make.

What were your lap times?

Re-installing a game just so patches work. Yea.

 

[mr_serious]

What were your lap times?

Re-installing a game just so patches work. Yea.

I wasn't going for lap times - I was going for maximum tyre abuse, ie trying really hard to overheat the tyres.

Anyway, since posting my previous comment, the game has stopped working completely.

Yesterday - fine.
Today....

start game - doesn't recognise buttons on the wheel for a 60s in the main start menu. Just about totask maa quit when suddenly they start working. Select lotus 49 free practice at Brands - change the time setting, enter practice. Wheel turns full 900 deg to left and stays there locked. Quit game, check various things, restart game.

Get into game, select random different car (ginetta GT4) for same event (practice at brands)
Get into event wheel does the same thing,
Go to calibration, calibrate
Enter event - black screen high cpu
Force game to close through task manager
reboot computer, try all of the above again with similar results

I am now staring at a blank screen while writing all of this on the laptop <sigh>

What a heap of 🤬

getting so sick of the bugs in this....

 

[Over Active]

What were your lap times?

Re-installing a game just so patches work. Yea.

mr_serious must be on PC. Myself, OZ and others who post here are PS4 users.

Just reading online today on other sites there seems to be a growing thrend between PS4/Xbox users to PC on tyre heat. It has also been brought up on the official forums.

One guy has PCars for Xbox and PC he said there is a clear difference between the two.

Scroll down to P1ckN1cker2406

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?27185-TYRE-PHYSICS-DISCUSSION/page126

 

[ozwheels]

I wasn't going for lap times - I was going for maximum tyre abuse, ie trying really hard to overheat the tyres.

Anyway, since posting my previous comment, the game has stopped working completely.

Yesterday - fine.
Today....

start game - doesn't recognise buttons on the wheel for a 60s in the main start menu. Just about totask maa quit when suddenly they start working. Select lotus 49 free practice at Brands - change the time setting, enter practice. Wheel turns full 900 deg to left and stays there locked. Quit game, check various things, restart game.

Get into game, select random different car (ginetta GT4) for same event (practice at brands)
Get into event wheel does the same thing,
Go to calibration, calibrate
Enter event - black screen high cpu
Force game to close through task manager
reboot computer, try all of the above again with similar results

I am now staring at a blank screen while writing all of this on the laptop <sigh>

What a heap of 🤬

getting so sick of the bugs in this....

That's sad. I admire the patience to keep trying though.

 

[mr_serious]

That's sad. I admire the patience to keep trying though.

Third machine reboot was the charm apparently!

So yes, I am on PC, and it wouldn't surprise me at all if there was a difference between the platforms.

In fact nothing at all surprises me about SMS products anymore. If I started the race and all my AI opponents were riding pink llamas instead of in vehicles it wouldn't surprise me.

So much randomness.

 

[bleeder]

I'm all for going easy but last night I was doing 6 lap races at 80% AI in the 12C GT3, 36 cars, starting from 19th, and I had to push like mad to even make the podium. Really happpy with my consistency though, lap after lap with the same times pretty much and had some fantastic wheel-to-wheel action that I've not had for a while, but if I started easing off too much I wouldn't have been in contention.

Perhaps the key is to qualify first, or start higher up, or lower AI.

 

[JohnScoonsBeard]

All the fast knowledgeable guys i know are saying the same thing 👍

To be fair Zak the other guys you know who are as fast as you may drive in a similar fashion to achieve similarly fast lap times.

Even if you're the smoothest driver in the world, being really quick around a track like you are should naturally put tyres under more stress whether it's through more lateral stress or through late hard braking (not locking). That generates more flexing, pressure and heat and seems to be what is happening now.

In my opinion SMS is rightly making it more difficult to achieve the lap times you and others can in a realistic race setting. Track tyres can heat up very quickly (even with late hard non lockup braking). Has anyone asked the question of SMS if the temperatures are going back down quickly enough? That could be causing problems just as easily as how quickly they heat up.

I think some mortals have struggled to use some of your tunes (I used some and definitely improved some of my times) simply because we're not as good as you are. Maybe they couldn't get lower pressure tyres up to temperature. However, now tyres are overheating because of the extra stress that comes from your "unearthly" speed. In the real world if tyres are inflated too low they will flex more which causes more heat. That extra heat and the flexing itself will damage the tires.

I don't know how accurate the temperature increase is but the softer the tyre the quicker it should heat up especially when being driven on the edge (and beyond). I think SMS have tried to make the game more accurate. I don't know whether they have achieved that but to me it makes it much more interesting. I've kept running 10 lap races against the AI at Brno in the Aston V12 GT3 with realistic aids using the wheel and controller over the last few days and have improved both my tune and times. More importantly I've gradually improved my management of tyre temperatures. I was racing them at 90% at the start of the week and am now up to 100% and getting close to a win at that level. That has had to be with a controller as my wheel and rig has been temporarily packed away . I'm putting that down to the focus this update has bought to what is a very interesting element of racing that I had little need to worry about before. In fact I had raced in many races without even looking at tyre temperature. Now I have to remind myself to look at the track instead of the Motec display.

The real question is does the tires in Pcars have been initially heat cycled when used at the track ? Heat cycle machine existed in real to help people get their tires ready from the get go Maybe in Pcars drivers need to heat cycle themselves ... I don't think that's possible as there's no tire management feature to store heat cycled tires So, it may not be simulated.

I think Nick Hamilton got it wrong about the heat cycle, he probably meant slowly building up heat on cold tires.

When tyre warmers are used doesn't it still take a lap or two of driving to more evenly heat all of the tyre and scrub the surface? Perhaps he's also referring to that?

 

[mr_serious]

I'm all for going easy but last night I was doing 6 lap races at 80% AI in the 12C GT3, 36 cars, starting from 19th, and I had to push like mad to even make the podium. Really happpy with my consistency though, lap after lap with the same times pretty much and had some fantastic wheel-to-wheel action that I've not had for a while, but if I started easing off too much I wouldn't have been in contention.

Perhaps the key is to qualify first, or start higher up, or lower AI.

In reality a podium from 19th place in 6 laps against equal competition would really get you noticed. I think 10th place in 6 laps would get you noticed. Are you (delete as appropriate) Vettel / Alonso / Hamilton / Schumacher (M) / Fangio / Clark ?

 

[ozwheels]

@Zakspeed_TV Now it's your driving that's bad. Welcome to the club.

 

[bleeder]

In reality a podium from 19th place in 6 laps against equal competition would really get you noticed. I think 10th place in 6 laps would get you noticed. Are you (delete as appropriate) Vettel / Alonso / Hamilton / Schumacher (M) / Fangio / Clark ?

Haha i guess i was doing quite well then! TBF this game still has the classic problem of the player being able to gain loads of places from the start, that always helps. I wish this wasn't the case, so sometimes I prefer rolling starts to try and stop this happening.

 

[Zakspeed_TV]

@Zakspeed_TV Now it's your driving that's bad. Welcome to the club.

I know mate, please don't scrub it in

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

To be fair Zak the other guys you know who are as fast as you may drive in a similar fashion to achieve similarly fast lap times.

Even if you're the smoothest driver in the world, being really quick around a track like you are should naturally put tyres under more stress whether it's through more lateral stress or through late hard braking (not locking). That generates more flexing, pressure and heat and seems to be what is happening now.

In my opinion SMS is rightly making it more difficult to achieve the lap times you and others can in a realistic race setting. Track tyres can heat up very quickly (even with late hard non lockup braking). Has anyone asked the question of SMS if the temperatures are going back down quickly enough? That could be causing problems just as easily as how quickly they heat up.

I think some mortals have struggled to use some of your tunes (I used some and definitely improved some of my times) simply because we're not as good as you are. Maybe they couldn't get lower pressure tyres up to temperature. However, now tyres are overheating because of the extra stress that comes from your "unearthly" speed. In the real world if tyres are inflated too low they will flex more which causes more heat. That extra heat and the flexing itself will damage the tires.

I don't know how accurate the temperature increase is but the softer the tyre the quicker it should heat up especially when being driven on the edge (and beyond). I think SMS have tried to make the game more accurate. I don't know whether they have achieved that but to me it makes it much more interesting. I've kept running 10 lap races against the AI at Brno in the Aston V12 GT3 with realistic aids using the wheel and controller over the last few days and have improved both my tune and times. More importantly I've gradually improved my management of tyre temperatures. I was racing them at 90% at the start of the week and am now up to 100% and getting close to a win at that level. That has had to be with a controller as my wheel and rig has been temporarily packed away . I'm putting that down to the focus this update has bought to what is a very interesting element of racing that I had little need to worry about before. In fact I had raced in many races without even looking at tyre temperature. Now I have to remind myself to look at the track instead of the Motec display.




When tyre warmers are used doesn't it still take a lap or two of driving to more evenly heat all of the tyre and scrub the surface? Perhaps he's also referring to that?

Tire warmer and heat cycle process are 2 different thing. I think it's just wording that he used, tires gradually loses adhesion/grip after each heat cycle. A brand new tire will need break in / initial heat cycle to make it more durable and consistent in performance, and after initial heat cycle, the tires need 24-48 hours to cure. Then these tires are ready for racing, and with tire warmer, it helps the tire surface to get warm, but yes, it will still need warm up lap to bring it to optimal evenly spread temp, but with heat cycled tire, it will have more stable temperature performance and grip. Sure, the driver can still abuse it and the tire will overheat and loses grip, but from my experience in the past, a properly heat cycled tire would be more resistant to abuse, wear slower/last longer distance and gives consistent performance.

Some other things to know :
Thicker rubber = more heat build up = more grip
Thinner rubber = less heat build up = less grip
More heat cycle = more distance = harder tire = less tread/rubber
Overinflated tire leads to cold tear = heat generation not enough for the carcass to reach optimal temp = surface heats up very quickly but carcass still below optimal temp = deep tear off
Underinflated tire leads to hot tear = contact patch is bigger and overheats quickly = shallow tear and more spread out

Tire warmer usually can be set from as low as 70 deg celcius to 100 degrees for 45-60 minutes to 2 hours. Tire oven also existed, and some teams used tire blanket in a box to get even heat, this was banned in F1 eventually. After 2015 season, F1 will ban tire warmers

Finally, read this for the basics on how to set tire pressure :

If the inside temp is higher than the outside, there is too much camber and if the outside is higher than the inside, more camber needed. Or, if there isn’t much camber used in the car already you may need to adjust the toe. Too much toe in heats the outside edge, too much toe out heats the inside edge.
The three temperature readings will tell a lot of information. They showed whether the tire is under-inflated or over-inflated and if the alignment suitable.
The first thing you want to do is getting the pressures dialed in. The aim is to get the temperatures consistent across the tire surface.
The high number in the middle indicates the tire is over-inflated, so you need to reduce pressure. If the middle temp is lower, the tire is under-inflated, so increase the pressure. It is rarely happen to have perfectly even temp across the tire, the goal is balance the temp, and a few degrees variation is okay.

 

[JohnScoonsBeard]

@Zakspeed_TV Now it's your driving that's bad. Welcome to the club.

See below

I know mate, please don't scrub it in

I didn't say there was a problem with Zak's driving. The speed he and I assume you are able to corner is perhaps what is causing the problem with the new tyre model which is pretty much what Zak and you have been saying this week. You can still do those times (or nearly) but there's a pay off. SMS have tried to make racing and lap times at least in races more realistic. I don't know whether they have it right. You can still do those sort of lap times that some of us will never be able to just not lap after lap with no penalty.

With respect I'm just discussing it politely with you guys and the rest of the forum giving my opinion.

Tire warmer and heat cycle process are 2 different thing. I think it's just wording that he used, tires gradually loses adhesion/grip after each heat cycle. A brand new tire will need break in / initial heat cycle to make it more durable and consistent in performance, and after initial heat cycle, the tires need 24-48 hours to cure. Then these tires are ready for racing, and with tire warmer, it helps the tire surface to get warm, but yes, it will still need warm up lap to bring it to optimal evenly spread temp, but with heat cycled tire, it will have more stable temperature performance and grip. Sure, the driver can still abuse it and the tire will overheat and loses grip, but from my experience in the past, a properly heat cycled tire would be more resistant to abuse, wear slower/last longer distance and gives consistent performance.

Some other things to know :
Thicker rubber = more heat build up = more grip
Thinner rubber = less heat build up = less grip
More heat cycle = more distance = harder tire = less tread/rubber
Overinflated tire leads to cold tear = heat generation not enough for the carcass to reach optimal temp = surface heats up very quickly but carcass still below optimal temp = deep tear off
Underinflated tire leads to hot tear = contact patch is bigger and overheats quickly = shallow tear and more spread out

Tire warmer usually can be set from as low as 70 deg celcius to 100 degrees for 45-60 minutes to 2 hours. Tire oven also existed, and some teams used tire blanket in a box to get even heat, this was banned in F1 eventually. After 2015 season, F1 will ban tire warmers

Finally, read this for the basics on how to set tire pressure :

If the inside temp is higher than the outside, there is too much camber and if the outside is higher than the inside, more camber needed. Or, if there isn’t much camber used in the car already you may need to adjust the toe. Too much toe in heats the outside edge, too much toe out heats the inside edge.
The three temperature readings will tell a lot of information. They showed whether the tire is under-inflated or over-inflated and if the alignment suitable.
The first thing you want to do is getting the pressures dialed in. The aim is to get the temperatures consistent across the tire surface.
The high number in the middle indicates the tire is over-inflated, so you need to reduce pressure. If the middle temp is lower, the tire is under-inflated, so increase the pressure. It is rarely happen to have perfectly even temp across the tire, the goal is balance the temp, and a few degrees variation is okay.

Thanks Ridox, that's all very helpful stuff indeed. I haven't read Hamilton's full comment so will have a look.

 

[ozwheels]

See below



I didn't say there was a problem with Zak's driving. The speed he and I assume you are able to corner is perhaps what is causing the problem with the new tyre model which is pretty much what Zak and you have been saying this week. You can still do those times (or nearly) but there's a pay off. SMS have tried to make racing and lap times at least in races more realistic. I don't know whether they have it right. You can still do those sort of lap times that some of us will never be able to just not lap after lap with no penalty.

With respect I'm just discussing it politely with you guys and the rest of the forum giving my opinion.



Thanks Ridox, that's all very helpful stuff indeed. I haven't read Hamilton's full comment so will have a look.

I doubt they were trying to make it more realistic as that's the exact opposite of what they've done. If lap times were the problem they could of reduced the max G the tires could pull.