POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

  • Thread starter VBR
  • 504 comments
  • 107,158 views

Have you had any problems with your T300RS/GTE?

  • Total voters
    313
Last year I broke down and got my T300rs during a cyber Monday sale (I think it was). Haven't regretted buying it since then.
 
I was looking at my recently sold(hell yes!) broken T300RS, the wheel got rust signs all over it, even i'm not living near the beach.

It looks like TM deliberately got the quality of their wheels down. Even my pedals and TH8A got rusty signs.

Why they don't fix the T300/TX wheel? They had this problem for more than 1 year now...
 
Last edited:
I've had many issues. I wouldn't let anyone I liked buy a Thrustmaster product. It works for a while, then goes haywire. Nothing you try fixes it. Then magically it works again.... for a while. It's awesome when it works. But whenever you turn it on, you have no idea what mood it's going to be in. It's a piece of hot garbage.
 
I am expecting to take delivery of T300RS Ferrari Alcantara this evening. I have no idea what to expect.

I'm thinking I should have saved my $$ and got the Fanatec V2 Base with wheel/pedal/shifter.
Cant remember being so unsure of buying a product.

At the first sign of trouble, I'm going for refund, and go after the fanatec equipment.
So now I will use T300/TH8A/TP3A. I've already ordered RICMOTEC adapter so I can use my G27 pedals with T300.
 
Blood*Specter
I am expecting to take delivery of T300RS Ferrari Alcantara this evening. I have no idea what to expect.

I'm thinking I should have saved my $$ and got the Fanatec V2 Base with wheel/pedal/shifter.
Cant remember being so unsure of buying a product.

At the first sign of trouble, I'm going for refund, and go after the fanatec equipment.
So now I will use T300/TH8A/TP3A. I've already ordered RICMOTEC adapter so I can use my G27 pedals with T300.
Click to expand...


I got back, my new wheel. Everything work fine now.
 
Last edited:
robpro24
Thank you : )
Click to expand...

OK, after I installed the T300RS and TH8A, my Windows 10 PC crashed. I was not able to use the recovery point.
So I did a "RESET" and complete WINDOWS install. This was Friday night after driving Assetto Corsa once.

After re-install of Steam, Race Room Racing, AC and PCars in Steam, I setup the T300RS Alcantara Wheel again.
I drive the Ferrari 488 GT3 at Silverstone GP.

The force feedback is OK. But the wheel feels bumpy on center. In fact it's like wheel is pulling left/right very fast when I drive in straight line. Also my turn in is a bit sluggish. The turn in could be car setup and not the wheel. I still have not run PCars yet. I want to resolve Assetto Corsa first.

This is a very solid feeling wheel. I am also happy with TH8A shifter. Love the sequential setup.
So unless someone knows different, I will turn FFB in Thrustmaster calibration tool and in Assetto Corsa to zero. Then add by 10 until it feels right to me. Same with other settings. 👍
 
Blood*Specter
The force feedback is OK. But the wheel feels bumpy on center. In fact it's like wheel is pulling left/right very fast when I drive in straight line. Also my turn in is a bit sluggish. The turn in could be car setup and not the wheel. I still have not run PCars yet. I want to resolve Assetto Corsa first.
Click to expand...

Not sure if this is the case with you, but I might have experienced something similar before. It's possible you might have set reverse force feedback somehow. I'm not sure if it's possible with AC, but that happened to me in rFactor.
 
So far so good with my T300RS, I've had it for a year now and so far no problems (knocks on wood) :lol: . I only used it for GT6 and tried it on project cars on PS4 a few times, it was pain to get setup in project cars at first but I was able to figure out the calibration and got it working. In GT6 I run 4/4 for feed back and sensitivity.
 
Awong124
Not sure if this is the case with you, but I might have experienced something similar before. It's possible you might have set reverse force feedback somehow. I'm not sure if it's possible with AC, but that happened to me in rFactor.
Click to expand...

So did you have to reset wheel? Power off then power on? Or re-install drivers and software? Or did it clear by its self.
I think I have this feeling through FFB before. With G27 PCars it was considered spiking. I felt it in Assetto Corsa with G27 too. And thank you for your comment.
 
Last edited:
Blood*Specter
So did you have to reset wheel? Power off then power on? Or re-install drivers and software? Or did it clear by its self.
I think I have this feeling through FFB before. With G27 PCars it was considered spiking. I felt it in Assetto Corsa with G27 too.
Click to expand...

It was actually a setting in rFactor itself. So I don't know if AC actually even has that option. I don't even understand why such an option exists.
 
Awong124
It was actually a setting in rFactor itself. So I don't know if AC actually even has that option. I don't even understand why such an option exists.
Click to expand...

I found a FFB inversion setting in the Assetto Corsa in game setup. But it was not checked.
After staying up way too late on a week day, I was able to rid my self of most of the on center twitching.

I did as I said and dialed everything down to zero in game on from the Thrustmaster calibration tool.
Then I adjusted both the game and the tool until I got what I was looking for. I will continue making adjustments until I get as close as I can to what I want to feel. Once I have a good setup, I'll post my in game and calibration tool settings.

As for my new T300RS Ferrari Alcantra, no weird noise, the fan cuts off without issue. Of course I've only had it since last Friday (12 August) but it is way more refined than my G27. It is making me a better driver IMHO.
So for now, well worth the price. It feels well put together. Not cheap at all.

And I do like the setup utilities for both the wheel and the TH8A shifter. The shifter is a quantum leap ahead of the G27 shifter. And the sequential conversion just takes it to the house. Overall, so far, so good. 👍
 
Blood*Specter
I found a FFB inversion setting in the Assetto Corsa in game setup. But it was not checked.
After staying up way too late on a week day, I was able to rid my self of most of the on center twitching.

I did as I said and dialed everything down to zero in game on from the Thrustmaster calibration tool.
Then I adjusted both the game and the tool until I got what I was looking for. I will continue making adjustments until I get as close as I can to what I want to feel. Once I have a good setup, I'll post my in game and calibration tool settings.

As for my new T300RS Ferrari Alcantra, no weird noise, the fan cuts off without issue. Of course I've only had it since last Friday (12 August) but it is way more refined than my G27. It is making me a better driver IMHO.
So for now, well worth the price. It feels well put together. Not cheap at all.

And I do like the setup utilities for both the wheel and the TH8A shifter. The shifter is a quantum leap ahead of the G27 shifter. And the sequential conversion just takes it to the house. Overall, so far, so good. 👍
Click to expand...

Did you try actually checking the option? I remember on rFactor I had to actually select inverted in the game to get it back to normal.
 
Awong, I tried the inverted FFB. It was really bad. Unchecked it immediately. I have managed to sharpen my settings to the point of my feeling very comfortable with the T300RS. Just a few more check to make. Then I will post my settings.

Maybe they will help someone get started setting up this wheel in Assetto Corsa PC.
 
Last edited:
MODS PLEASE DELETE THIS POST. Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • 2016-08-19 (7).png
    2016-08-19 (7).png
    71.1 KB · Views: 26
  • 2016-08-19 (8).png
    2016-08-19 (8).png
    63.7 KB · Views: 24
  • 2016-08-19 (3).png
    2016-08-19 (3).png
    60.6 KB · Views: 24
Last edited:
2016-08-19 (7).png 2016-08-19 (8).png 2016-08-19 (3).png

If you are new to the T300RS, try these settings and see how they feel. This could be a good starting place for you.
First set calibration, then set in game. These setting feel so much better than my initial T300 default.
Change them to suit your taste. :cheers:
 

Attachments

  • 2016-08-19 (7).png
    2016-08-19 (7).png
    71.1 KB · Views: 42
  • 2016-08-19 (8).png
    2016-08-19 (8).png
    63.7 KB · Views: 41
  • 2016-08-19 (3).png
    2016-08-19 (3).png
    60.6 KB · Views: 41
skazz
Why 850 not 900 degrees? I imagine 850 screws up the 1:1 wheel movement in game....
Click to expand...

Just wanted to see if it made a difference in what I felt while steering. I actually drove pretty well with 850.
I will be sampling 900 soon to see if I can feel a difference between the two. 👍

Also not sure about the wheel movement. My animation shows arms moving to an impossible position.
So I'm not sure how that relates to 900 degree rotation. Also read somewhere that the real rotational limit was somewhere around 450 degrees. Please let me know what I am missing.
:confused:
 
AC, like most PC sims, automatically changes the number of degrees of rotation actually in use depending on the car, so normally all you need to do is set the wheel and the game to the same rotation setting and then when driving cars with natural degrees of rotation below what you set, it will simply ignore any rotation above that.

For example an F1 car would be:
- degrees of rotation in drivers 900
- degrees of rotation set in game (on 1st tab of controller settings) 900
- actual degrees of rotation while driving 360

You can set degrees of rotation to the biggest number you like for drifting, safe in the knowledge that this won't prevent you driving any cars. Most people use 900 because that's good enough, but you can set 1080 if you want, the T300 supports it.
 

Latest Posts

Back