R/C car thread!

My RS4 3 Evo, along with my non running RS4 MT2 truggy rock purple anodizing lol
MT2 needs a receiver and some motor tuning before it can run again. Though I have thought of converting it to an electric, and use the motor as a spare for my RS4.

And my only semi-quiet R/C is my Tamiya TA-06, which was uber quiet when new. Now, after adding a high rpm motor fan and just general wear of the drivetrain, it makes more noise lol.
 
I've got a couple others, nothing like the Super Nitro or any major RC kit. 2 of them need some repair work. The Schuco Porsche 911 has a controller with loose wiring that needs to be fixed, and a 1982 Nikko 935 but that one doesn't even have a controller that I know of. Both were bought in Germany by my father.

Not my photo, but this is the exact Schuco Porsche that I have. Mine is missing the Targa roof panel.
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I also have a Nikko Ford GT that was a gift from my Uncle that he bought from the Ford dealer he works at. That one just needs some AA batteries. :P
 
Took the pullstart apart to see if anything could be done with it. The spring was in terrible shape so I definitely need a new one. Guess I didn't go too crazy with it and it just wasn't going to hold up much longer either way. :indiff:
 
Today I had great fun reminding myself how cramped chassis layouts designed for cells and brushed motors really don't take kindly to brushless systems and LiPos.

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She still looks lovely though.

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Cells... do you mean those things called NiMH batteries? Or possibly even NiCad? :sly:
And wat is a brushed motor?

Ok, I have brushed motors in my rock crawlers lol...

That is a nice chassis setup though, I like the inboard shocks. 👍
 
I've just come to the realization that if I damage the bodyshell I have for my Super Nitro, the chances of finding a new bodyshell that will fit is extremely unlikely. :indiff:
 
What shell is it? The TS020?

Also, eyeing this up. It's a bit expensive but it's for charity and all.

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I've got the 911 Turbo shell on it currently. Is the TS020 still available? I know it's discontinued on HPI's website, as is most of the Super Nitro stuff.

I know HPI has the WR8 Fiesta bodyshell that's 300mm and would probably fit, but I'd probably have to buy taller rear mounts for it. Not having the rally version, the Fiesta would look out of place as well. Everything else I've found in the 280-300mm range are monster truck bodyshells.

The issues with having a 13 year old, long out of production, off-scale R/C chassis. :lol: I have found tires/wheels on amazon though. Just not the 57x35mm foam inserts for the tires. Although if it comes down to it, I could probably find a slightly different size wheel/tire combo that uses the 12mm hub mounts.

Edit: Well 🤬 ..that's quite pricey, even if it's is a high quality paintjob on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Painted-HPI...ho-Superten-/221895701712?hash=item33aa03b4d0

Nevermind, didn't realize the foam inserts come with the tires. :dunce:
 
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What you could try is a Rally Game shell. The ProtoFORM PF8-GT is 279mm, and the Titan Blitz GT is 315mm. There are a few others that fit in between.

If you get a 17mm hex conversion, you can fit Rally Game wheels to it too - just lower the ride height to offset the larger wheels/tyres.
 
I'm going to start digging around ebay for some vintage stuff. My contract may say that I can only race Serpent stuff, but I'd like a few shelf queens and projects lying around to keep me occupied.
 
If I had (more) money, I'd have my Super Nitro upgraded more, and probably find other kits as well. I bought the Super Nitro as RTR, and kind of regret not buying a kit that needed to be assembled instead.
 
If you have the money for everything required, kits are so much more satisfying. Pro spec equipment is a joy to handle.
 
hsv
Pro spec equipment is a joy to handle.
👍

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Had my first meeting with it. Just scraped into the A-main but couldn't stay for the final. Considering it was my first time with a buggy (...and the way I was driving:guilty:) I was very surprised when I saw the qualy sheet. If the consistency figure was any higher it'd look like a lap time!
 
VBC just put up some really nice VBC Dynamics wallpapers on their site, if anyone is interested:

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I'd say they're roughly even. The nature of the hobby is turning people to RTR, and there are several grades of RTR - some are clearly aimed at newcomers, others are slightly more competition spec. The vast majority of kits are racing kits though, since the casual hobbyist will only be looking for something... casual. I think that's why the HPI SS range didn't do tremendously well - cars like the Hellfire, Savage and Baja are bashers by their very nature, and appeal to the casual driver. They would much rather buy a fuel bottle, glow starter and some fuel and get going rather than spend 10, 15, maybe even 20 hours putting a car together. RTR cars also do encourage people into the hobby - I don't believe the "race spec" cars are all that excellent, because any club member will quickly find themselves shelling out for the most expensive and competitive gear, but they're vital for encouraging young drivers into the sport. If you don't have parents that are involved in it, or have a very, very strong grasp of what you're doing from a very young age, you will never succeed with a kit.
 
Most of my r/c cars were built from kits, some I built myself and some a friend started (but never finished). My Tamiya TA-06, TB-04, and a couple TT-01's started off as kits. Then I have an Axial Exo Terra Buggy and SCX-10, both built from kits, along with a RC4WD Trail Finder 2 built from a kit. My lone RTR I bought new was another SCX-10, which is in pieces right now. I got a few used RTR's though, 3 of which are nitros (2 HPI, one Ofna), and one a tiny Kyosho MiniZ. Of those, only the HPI Nitro RS4 Evo 3 and Kyosho MiniZ work at the moment. If I get another car/truck, it will probably be a kit as well, since I just find them fun to build lol. Been eyeing some F1 style cars lately...
 
It's just that I'm interested in an off-road vehicle, even though I have no money to purchase one at this point, and I was looking around to see if there were any good kits. I bought my Super Nitro in RTR form, so a kit would be a nice thing to experience.
 
Most 1/10 electric off road kits are racing buggies, but a stadium truck or SC truck would be a good way to go. Serpent have the SRX2 SCT for around $300, beautiful quality and rock solid. The AE T5M can also be bought for about $250.
 
complete change of direction for me in the last two months. The used slash 2wd I had has been sent to a new home and I decided to stop trying to fix other peoples mistakes on their rcs. I am now a proud owner of a brand new HPI Flux Sprint 2 and holy the handling is a huge difference from the slash. Wish I could've had the BMW body instead of the camaro but hey I got a decent price on a out of the box brushless set up. It will take me some time to get used to the higher speed this thing can do and turns are a bloody blast with the belt driven 4wd
 
Main reason I never got a HPI Sprint 2 was the fact that the belts look like they would be a PITA to replace if damaged. On my Tamiya TA-06, I only have to undo 4 screws to change either the front or rear belts. Luckily belts do last a good while though.
 
Well, TIL:

Vintage racing is a bit difficult to get your head around unless you raced seriously in the period, as the amount of one-off cars and bodge job conversions was sky high. This car is interesting enough to note though - it's relatively unknown, with only a few British club drivers from the very late 80s seem to have any recollection of it.

It's called Dog Chases the Cat.

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It's essentially a Yokomo YZ-10 with a CAT XLS or ProCAT front end. The CAT front conversion was popular at the time because 4WD buggies were notorious for their relentless understeer, but Schumacher managed to make a car that rotated like nothing else on the market (bearing in mind tyre technology and track surfaces were a long way away from today's standards). The one pictured is the only chassis known to be running; it was rebuilt last year and run at the revival meeting. It didn't really work as it used to - the front end grip that gave it such an advantage has been lost, since dry astro tracks on Yellow Mini Spikes or similar will produce ridiculous amounts of grip for everyone. Secondly, the car wasn't designed to handle a modern brushless system, so putting the power down effectively is quite the balancing act. By far the biggest issue though was the lightened narrow front end of the chassis - it has a fair bit of flex - but on very high grip, it was flexing to the point where it had the effect of active steering. :lol:

Even if they haven't aged particularly well, I'd love to see if there are still some chassis hidden away across the UK. It's a nifty little bit of model car racing history.
 
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