Stopping snap back on the G27
- Thread starter JDMxUK
- 31 comments
- 2,735 views
- 103
- sydney
- THRASHBOX_Haze
There isn't anything wrong with the drifting man just always be aware of where your front wheels are. 👍
- 41
- Shanghai
- franky_lp
The problem is tyres grip too tightly on the track even with the CH. This is the problem.
- 40
- Northern Virginia
- S1lverblade2487
i had this problem a lot too when i first started but i figured out what my problem was .. sensitivity was wrong for how I drift
- 26
- England
- JDMxUK
How do you change the sensitivity?
- 40
- Northern Virginia
- S1lverblade2487
- 40
- Northern Virginia
- S1lverblade2487
okay ... I only said what worked for me (I use the controller), didn't mean that he had to do it as well .. he asked me how and I told him ..
- 40
- Northern Virginia
- S1lverblade2487
- 40
- Northern Virginia
- S1lverblade2487
- 3,455
- Brisbane
- Uriehusky
- Uriehusky
So you're suggesting that PD thought it'd be fun to outright say "This only effects this control method" and then giggle to themselves because it effects the steering wheels too?
No. It does not effect steering wheels, if you seriously believe that it does it's nothing more than the Placebo Effect - IE, if you believe something will happen you'll trick yourself into thinking it's the case.
No. It does not effect steering wheels, if you seriously believe that it does it's nothing more than the Placebo Effect - IE, if you believe something will happen you'll trick yourself into thinking it's the case.
- 3,455
- Brisbane
- Uriehusky
- Uriehusky
It. Does. Not. Have. An. Effect.
It outright does not change anything.
All the sensitivity setting changes is the rate the wheels respond to CONTROLLER inputs, IE stick and directional buttons on the DS3 controller.
It outright does not change anything.
All the sensitivity setting changes is the rate the wheels respond to CONTROLLER inputs, IE stick and directional buttons on the DS3 controller.
Last edited:
- 40
- Northern Virginia
- S1lverblade2487
......
- 542
- DrifTa-AJV
Correct throttle control will solve your snap back its the only true way 👍 sensitivity has nothing to do with and like what was mentioned earlier front wheels correct your steering quicker
- 3,266
- FRAG-ME-CG
- 17
- Canada
- LAZERKATZzZz
- 17
- Canada
- LAZERKATZzZz
- 386
- Aokigahara
So let me get this this straight, people are setting their wheels to have a lesser degree of rotation now? Why not just sell your wheel and buy a base model mad cats or something. Once you're used to 200 or whatever other values and you switch back to 900, you might end up back where you started.
- 386
- Aokigahara
Correct. I think you needed a manual rack or make your power rack manual or something. I read somewhere one of the pontiac/saturn sky drivers used one.
—---------------------
Here's the p.o.v. i was looking from:
I tried playing gt3 with my new to me dfp not knowing the game didn't support 900°. Selected apricot driving a 600hp supra, feinted off pit wall going well over 120, threw the car in the turn, countered aggressively to compensate for speed and POW! Hit lock at a wopping 100° maybe? Tore the calibration lock and slide right out of its location.
That's what I thought of when I read the above posts about rotation reduction.
- 1,460
- England
From my testing with a dfgt, the steering sense makes no difference. As stated above, the blurb says it affects stick and button steering.
No idea about g25-27
Regarding running lower rotation on a 900 wheel, IMO, it's silly, you are making the steering more sensitive, therefore you have a smaller window for where the wheel can be, for the front wheels to be pointing in the correct direction.
900 might make your arms tired, but nothing beats a lock to lock transition at 900.
If I was drifting a budget drift car in real life, it would be closer to the 900 setting.
I haven't even tried the other settings, I don't care if it makes it 'easier', it's going to be a lot less fun for me. That, and I'm used to 900 now, and getting rather good, even if I do say so myself.
In response to the OP, more throttle, and earlier with straightening the front wheels up, as soon as you feel the rotation of the Inital drift slowing down, you need to straighten the wheels and get the power down, or the only thing that's going to happen, is snap back.
It just takes practice and getting to know the car. Looking for the tiny visual cues about the cars rotation.
You need to get past reacting to the car, and move towards proactively controlling it.
Doing this whilst properly sideways is not easy, it's takes a lot of time with the car, knowing exactly what it's about to do, before it does it, and preempt it with your control inputs.
A good setup that suits your driving style helps a great deal, and therefore setting up the car becomes important. Knowing exactly what each alteration is doing, and if it's helping the issue, or creating another.
I've just built a budget 180sx, around 350bhp with low rpm turbo, and I havent had this much fun on comfort hards for a long time. Why? Because it gives me a lot less to worry about.
Light weight and modest power, with excellent throttle response is what you want. Supercharged ae86s are perfect for learning what's what. IMO.
If your trying to drift an m3 on comfort soft, that's your first mistake.
Don't get me wrong, gripping tyres can be used for drifting, but you have a lot less time to respond to what's going on. And you need lots of power to maintain any worthwhile drifting making it easy to unleash too much power and ruin the little bit of good drifting you had going on.
All IMO of course.
No idea about g25-27
Regarding running lower rotation on a 900 wheel, IMO, it's silly, you are making the steering more sensitive, therefore you have a smaller window for where the wheel can be, for the front wheels to be pointing in the correct direction.
900 might make your arms tired, but nothing beats a lock to lock transition at 900.
If I was drifting a budget drift car in real life, it would be closer to the 900 setting.
I haven't even tried the other settings, I don't care if it makes it 'easier', it's going to be a lot less fun for me. That, and I'm used to 900 now, and getting rather good, even if I do say so myself.
In response to the OP, more throttle, and earlier with straightening the front wheels up, as soon as you feel the rotation of the Inital drift slowing down, you need to straighten the wheels and get the power down, or the only thing that's going to happen, is snap back.
It just takes practice and getting to know the car. Looking for the tiny visual cues about the cars rotation.
You need to get past reacting to the car, and move towards proactively controlling it.
Doing this whilst properly sideways is not easy, it's takes a lot of time with the car, knowing exactly what it's about to do, before it does it, and preempt it with your control inputs.
A good setup that suits your driving style helps a great deal, and therefore setting up the car becomes important. Knowing exactly what each alteration is doing, and if it's helping the issue, or creating another.
I've just built a budget 180sx, around 350bhp with low rpm turbo, and I havent had this much fun on comfort hards for a long time. Why? Because it gives me a lot less to worry about.
Light weight and modest power, with excellent throttle response is what you want. Supercharged ae86s are perfect for learning what's what. IMO.
If your trying to drift an m3 on comfort soft, that's your first mistake.
Don't get me wrong, gripping tyres can be used for drifting, but you have a lot less time to respond to what's going on. And you need lots of power to maintain any worthwhile drifting making it easy to unleash too much power and ruin the little bit of good drifting you had going on.
All IMO of course.
Last edited:
Similar threads
