The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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GTP_geoff
Ah, I should've said, PS4. I know they plug and play with PC and I also know the direct usb connection for the pedals won't work for PS4. So using the PS2 connection on the T500 is the way to go, but what do I need to use to get the Fanatec pedals running through/with the T500?

Thanks
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As far as I know to play with T500 and CSL Elite LC pedals on console you need CPX adapter which unfortunately is discontinued,try to find a second hand.
 
PocketZeven
Alternatively a drivehub might work.
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Mirror_man
A Drive HUB WILL work!!!
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Sorry guys but I do not see CSL Elite LC pedals in this list:

COMPATIBLE USB ACCESSORIES
You can use accessories with any combination of wheel!!! (Example: Thrustmaster TH8A shifter with a Logitech G29 wheel) - How awesome is that? - and if you have more than one different USB accessory, simply connect a USB Hub to the accessory port - this is one of the most exciting features of the DriveHub. No other device on the market can do this.

  • Thrustmaster T.RJ12 USB Adapter (Required for T3PA Pedals)
  • Thrustmaster TH8A
  • Fanatec ClubSport USB Adapter (Required for Fanatec Shifters, Handbrakes & Pedals)
  • Fanatec Club Sport V3 Pedals
  • Fanatec Club Sport V2 Pedals
  • Fanatec Club Sport V1 Pedals
  • Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals
  • Frex GP Shifter
 
super_gt
Sorry guys but I do not see CSL Elite LC pedals in this list:

COMPATIBLE USB ACCESSORIES
You can use accessories with any combination of wheel!!! (Example: Thrustmaster TH8A shifter with a Logitech G29 wheel) - How awesome is that? - and if you have more than one different USB accessory, simply connect a USB Hub to the accessory port - this is one of the most exciting features of the DriveHub. No other device on the market can do this.

  • Thrustmaster T.RJ12 USB Adapter (Required for T3PA Pedals)
  • Thrustmaster TH8A
  • Fanatec ClubSport USB Adapter (Required for Fanatec Shifters, Handbrakes & Pedals)
  • Fanatec Club Sport V3 Pedals
  • Fanatec Club Sport V2 Pedals
  • Fanatec Club Sport V1 Pedals
  • Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals
  • Frex GP Shifter
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It’ll be ok I think the LC part just describes the Load Cell brake add on and it does mention CSL Elite.
Thanks though.
 
Hey all, I'm looking for a link for replacement paddle switches.

All I can find are basher discontinued.

Can anyone help?

Thanks
 
PocketZeven
Maybe try Thrustmaster? They do sell replacement parts for wheels that arent under warrenty anymore.
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Thanks, I was hoping someone had a link for better switches. Mine still work, but the click has gone so there's no feel to changes.
 
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PocketZeven
Try 3drap or Simulaje if you want third party parts. Dunno if you can use them on TM gear... I am no electrical engineer.

Edit: @GTP_geoff Found this one on 3Drap. Dont know if they are the same for TM:
https://www.3drap.it/product/microswitch-for-f1-paddles/
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Nice one.

The T500 switches are 4 pin though. I found these https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/b3f-5050/microswitches-tact/omron/ and also ordered a few others that have different operating force (nm).

Looking forward to trying them.
 
T500 RS Paddle Switch Replacement

Just a quick update on my search for replacement switches.

I found these and chose them over others because they had an higher operating force of 2.5N (more click) compared to the rest which were rated with half the force. They cost 13 pence each but with a minimum order of 10 and look identical to what they are replacing. So I have a supply that'll last a long long time. I did find a switch that had a rating of 10 million cycles but again the click would have been less firm.

https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/tacts-24r-f/microswitches-tact/ninigi/

Replacing them required some soldering, which was pretty straight forward if you've soldered before. The switches must be fitted very flush to the board otherwise when the spring is loaded the switch will end up being down all the time.

The difference is very good with the old switches almost silent and most likely on the verge of failing. The paddles now have a crisp reassuring click. Just like this video:

 
I've recently acquired a second hand T500RS and I've noticed that there is quite a lot of deadzone on the gas and clutch pedals. If I had to estimate, I would say that I can push the pedals approximately 2cm or so before I even get any sort of output. On the other hand, the brake pedal has a much more acceptable deadzone which is much smaller and therefore more responsive.

Is this normal, and is there any way I can fix this? There is also deadzone towards the 100% mark where I can lift my foot off the gas slightly and still have 100% output

EDIT: Now the clutch seems fine, but the gas pedal still has a larger deadzone than I'd like. If I swap the F1/GT modes so the gas and clutch swap places, the gas pedal in the GT mode will still have a larger deadzone when it becomes the clutch in the F1 mode.
 
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Hav
MSTER232
I've recently acquired a second hand T500RS and I've noticed that there is quite a lot of deadzone on the gas and clutch pedals. If I had to estimate, I would say that I can push the pedals approximately 2cm or so before I even get any sort of output. On the other hand, the brake pedal has a much more acceptable deadzone which is much smaller and therefore more responsive.

Is this normal, and is there any way I can fix this? There is also deadzone towards the 100% mark where I can lift my foot off the gas slightly and still have 100% output

EDIT: Now the clutch seems fine, but the gas pedal still has a larger deadzone than I'd like. If I swap the F1/GT modes so the gas and clutch swap places, the gas pedal in the GT mode will still have a larger deadzone when it becomes the clutch in the F1 mode.
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Have you set it up and tested it on your PC/Laptop 1st?
 
MSTER232
I've recently acquired a second hand T500RS and I've noticed that there is quite a lot of deadzone on the gas and clutch pedals. If I had to estimate, I would say that I can push the pedals approximately 2cm or so before I even get any sort of output. On the other hand, the brake pedal has a much more acceptable deadzone which is much smaller and therefore more responsive.

Is this normal, and is there any way I can fix this? There is also deadzone towards the 100% mark where I can lift my foot off the gas slightly and still have 100% output

EDIT: Now the clutch seems fine, but the gas pedal still has a larger deadzone than I'd like. If I swap the F1/GT modes so the gas and clutch swap places, the gas pedal in the GT mode will still have a larger deadzone when it becomes the clutch in the F1 mode.
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There is one way. But only on PC.

Thrustmaster does a USB device which lets you plug in the pedals and use them separately to the wheel (called something like the T.12, can't remember right now). It has extra software which lets you adjust the dead zone, but sadly only while using the USB dongle.

Have a look on the Thrustmaster site and you should find it easily enough.
 
Mirror_man
Hav


Have you set it up and tested it on your PC/Laptop 1st?
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I have actually, but I somehow managed to fix it and I'm not even 100% sure on how I did it.

skazz
There is one way. But only on PC.

Thrustmaster does a USB device which lets you plug in the pedals and use them separately to the wheel (called something like the T.12, can't remember right now). It has extra software which lets you adjust the dead zone, but sadly only while using the USB dongle.

Have a look on the Thrustmaster site and you should find it easily enough.
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Although I've managed to fix my problem I think, I'll still check out this adapter sometime in the future I suppose.

If anyone is reading this with a similar problem with their pedals, all I did to fix it was:

  • open the pedals up to clean out the pedal wells (which weren't even that dirty)
  • plug out the wheel's USB plug
  • take out the metal plate on the top of the pedal that restricts how far the pedal springs back when you're not pressing on it, plug it back in to calibrate the pedals (which now pushes back slightly further due to the metal plate not being there and it flexes against the black metal plate a little bit)
  • put the metal plate back on

I thought I would have to do this every time I use the wheel but to my surprise it fixed the problem completely as even if I unplug the wheel and plug it back in, the pedals calibrate properly now to the point where the deadzone is quite small and you can only notice it if you're looking for it with your hand. It's definitely less than 1cm of movement needed before any input is received, and it's probably closer to 0.5-0.7cm of movement which I'm happy with as it's a massive improvement.
 
Just tonight, after trying out a new car in iRacing which had the FFB turned up too high, I started to notice a burning smell from my T500 RS. Bought it second hand close to a year ago, so I doubt I can get a warranty claim. Wondering if anyone knows what might start to overheat and give a burning smell on these wheels? The fan? I've already read a few guides about swapping in a bigger one, but not direct mention of them giving off a burning plastic smell when failing. The wheel still works fine, so I think I can probably repair it with a bit more knowledge.

If I manage to dismantle it, what components should I look at to narrow down the source of the burning? The smell seems to mainly come from the front vent on the right hand side; nothing from the left side vent.
 
Whodoyouthink
Just tonight, after trying out a new car in iRacing which had the FFB turned up too high, I started to notice a burning smell from my T500 RS. Bought it second hand close to a year ago, so I doubt I can get a warranty claim. Wondering if anyone knows what might start to overheat and give a burning smell on these wheels? The fan? I've already read a few guides about swapping in a bigger one, but not direct mention of them giving off a burning plastic smell when failing. The wheel still works fine, so I think I can probably repair it with a bit more knowledge.

If I manage to dismantle it, what components should I look at to narrow down the source of the burning? The smell seems to mainly come from the front vent on the right hand side; nothing from the left side vent.
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Hi Whodoyouthink
If second hand then I doubt the warranty is still available on your wheel. But contact Thrustmaster to make sure....no harm in trying.
As for the burning smell, it could be that belt driving motors wearing thin, or dust on the actual motor burning as the motor does get quite hot. Try vacuum cleaning each and every vent hole. I haven't taken mine apart so I can't tell you what goes where inside
 
Ok did some disassembling and discovered the belt is cracked:

46972527_10213610548565662_7799424704162299904_n.jpg


The cracking and fine dust/debris surrounding it makes me think the belt was burning from slipping or just dealing with too much friction. The motor and other moving parts look OK, still had grease on them and no discoloration from heat.I think there are guides to replace it. Plus, since it's already open, I may take the opportunity to replace the standard 60mm size fan with an 80mm sized one because some people argue it barely supplies sufficient cooling as it is.

EDIT: Based off this thread, I think I found a US-source for the 2 belts (I didn't even realize there was a wheel belt+motor belt at first), found here and here. Almost had to resort trying to order through a UK vendor and having a way of importing in to the US (possibly with the help of an EU online buddy). Luckily, seems like that isn't necessary!

EDIT #2: Belts came in today, expecting 80mm upgrade fan tomorrow or Friday. Still no good indication of how to reach and move the belts....Do I take off the wheel and access through the front? Or do I continue from the motor side? So many videos on changing the fan; basically NOTHING on changing the belts! HELP!!
 
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Hi Guys! :)

Anybody knows if the Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals may be connected to the T500RS (or T300) Wheel Base, using the normal connection cable: pedals to Wheel Base, (that seems to be just like to the one that the Thrustmaster pedals also use...) without any other device needed in the process???

And so be used for playing games instead of Thrustmaster pedals?????
 
Mirror_man
Hi Guys! :)

Anybody knows if the Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals may be connected to the T500RS (or T300) Wheel Base, using the normal connection cable: pedals to Wheel Base, (that seems to be just like to the one that the Thrustmaster pedals also use...) without any other device needed in the process???

And so be used for playing games instead of Thrustmaster pedals?????
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I tried to connect Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals(two pedal set) to my Thrustmaster T150 using the normal connection cable: pedals to Wheel Base, but it does not work. I push the pedals, but pedals movement is not detected in the Thrustmaster control panel.
 
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super_gt
I tried to connect Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals(two pedal set) to my Thrustmaster T150 using the normal connection cable: pedals to Wheel Base, but it does not work. I push the pedals, but pedals movement is not detected in the Thrustmaster control panel.
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Will it work with Drivehub using usb connection cable from Csl Elite Pedals?
 
I've been wondering that for some time now. At this point, I feel I'd get more benefit from more realistic pedals than a more refined wheel. I can modulate my track pads on my Miata in real life quite well, often out braking some faster cars during trackdays. But I can't seem to finesse the brakes the same way in iRacing/Assetto Corsa in similarly setup Miatas. I also have a tricky time with the clutch, the T 500 RS clutch is stupidly light.

I've seen some DIY mods of stronger springs and mini shocks, or even just rubber/poly bushings behind the pedals. Even though the T500 wheel is a tad notchy and somewhat unrefined, the FFB is still very good and gives me a great sense of where the weight is. So for sure, pedals are the weakest link for me right now, even despite how decent the T3PA Pro pedals really are.
 
The fanatec 2 pedal set are analog and in theory “should” be capable of working on a Tm wheel which uses also analog....
But the pinout is different, and the connector is different. Fanatec use a regular rj12, thrustmaster has the tag offset it’s referred to as decconnect... hard to find, even harder to find a crimp tool to use them... I can work out a pinout if you like....
Also note that once you add the kcal to the fanatec set, it switches to digital... one on the 6 pins is analog/digital indicator...
 
Guys can anyone let me know if they have Updated GT Sport to Include native button support for the T500RS I need a secondary wheel and last time I tried It with GT Sport was on launch of the game. Quick responses would be much appreciated!

Present Day I have an Option to go for a T500RS & Collect It tomorrow or go for a T-GT which is a lot more money but on Sale at £499.99 at Box.co.uk currently which I can also collect tomorrow but is a lot more money!
 
Marky264
Guys can anyone let me know if they have Updated GT Sport to Include native button support for the T500RS I need a secondary wheel and last time I tried It with GT Sport was on launch of the game. Quick responses would be much appreciated!

Present Day I have an Option to go for a T500RS & Collect It tomorrow or go for a T-GT which is a lot more money but on Sale at £499.99 at Box.co.uk currently which I can also collect tomorrow but is a lot more money!
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No

If you drive competitevely the T-Gt is the official wheel. So its good to know and get used to the material used.
 
Marky264
Guys can anyone let me know if they have Updated GT Sport to Include native button support for the T500RS I need a secondary wheel and last time I tried It with GT Sport was on launch of the game. Quick responses would be much appreciated!

Present Day I have an Option to go for a T500RS & Collect It tomorrow or go for a T-GT which is a lot more money but on Sale at £499.99 at Box.co.uk currently which I can also collect tomorrow but is a lot more money!
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The only button without native support on the T500RS is the PS button. Everything else is supported. But having gone from a T500 to an T-GT, the T-GT is a better wheel and will more than likely have better support in the future.
 

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