Thrustmaster T3PA Pro & T3PA Wide Pedal Set Thread

Which one to get?


  • Total voters
    120
1,268
United States
CENLA
SoCaLLbeer
If you read the reviews there are guys saying that they aren't an exact fit and need to be modified for both sets of pedals. Doesn't seem like anything major, but something to consider.

Yeah - I saw one review they guy said they fit right on.. oh well. I ordered a used set, if I need to modify them no big deal.

Edit - found the post on isrtv forums - yes the holes need to be slightly drilled out.
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/11217-tx-458-wheel-t500-pedals/?p=107140
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/11217-tx-458-wheel-t500-pedals/?p=107149

Edit 2 - Yes the holes are just a slight bit too far apart, but they should work well. I went for the 2 pedal set vs the three pedal as I wanted the big brake plate. Don't have tools on hand we are moving.. will drill them out Saturday. Not bad for $10 but more pinkish than the ad.

xJQsRuJ7Ql6mkLkRpqDVgpoB-hneBTX0R0QHZdKQbrfk=w500-h982-no



Edit 3 - I was actually able to get the brake plate mounted with the cheap mounting hardware they came with- They are just little nuts and bolts with a little braket that I used to clamp the bottom of the brake plate to the pedal arm. Then using the normal top bolt from the stock pedas - I love having the wide brake plate, once I got used to the new positioning for my feet I am a lot more comfortable switching to left for braking and also heal-toeing

oN37jtvpBxUOhPx9M8wONFLLnSOJYqef_pD0kavOZetZ=w550-h711-no
 
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9
United States
United States
Thought I would share the mod I just completed. I have always been a left foot braker. I did several mods on the standard pedal set that came with the t300, foam golf ball, sanding block, RC shocks. They all made the brakes feel a bit more Nature but I still found them lacking. I really wanted the t3pa pro's for the conical brake mod but I have a Open wheeler seat that has a center mounting post for the steering wheel and it would make it impossible for me to reach the brake pedal. Since I paddle shift and really didn't need the clutch pedal, this is what I came up with:


20150710_070046.jpg
20150710_070024.jpg


Love these pedals, the brakes finally have the feel and response i was looking for. I found the gas pedal return spring a bit light so I also replaced it with a spring with about double the spring tension. All in all I'm now a very happy left foot braker.
 
170
jay-16v

I am pretty sure The Thrustmaster site only ships to addresses in that country so Thrustmaster uk will only ship to Uk address etc ....

Says this at the bottom of the site :

Delivery
Thrustmaster Shop UK offers you 2 types of delivery in UK only. A standard delivery (5-7 business days) - An express delivery (2-3 business days).
 
9
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
I am pretty sure The Thrustmaster site only ships to addresses in that country so Thrustmaster uk will only ship to Uk address etc ....

Says this at the bottom of the site :

Delivery
Thrustmaster Shop UK offers you 2 types of delivery in UK only. A standard delivery (5-7 business days) - An express delivery (2-3 business days).

yep ,,dunno if they ship worldwide or EU, but they were shipped from France which kinda puzzled me a bit,,

all good though ,,,5 working days to get to the UK and now my T300 stock peddals are collecting dust in the garage , :D
 
2,433
Netherlands
Netherlands
skazz-race
skazzracer
Well I bit the bullet and grabbed a set of T3PA (non-pros) for my T300. I was just fed up using the stock T300 pedals. In this country we don't have a direct Thrustmaster webshop: The T3PA just became available and we have absolutely no clue when the T3PA-Pro is due to be released, so the T3PA was the logical choice.

Thrustmaster quality control is still not impressive... 2 of the three rubber stoppers under the pedals were loose when I opened the box, apparently due to the glue having melted in transit?


Mini comparison of T3PA and T500 (=T3PA-Pro) pedals:
- The standard brake spring feels pretty much identical, lovely smooth action (I've not tried the brake mod)
- The accelerator spring feels pretty much identical
- The clutch spring is roughly twice as strong as the accelerator on the T3PA, but identical to the accelerator on the T500 (due to the interchangeability requirement)
- The plastic base of the T3PA is way more comfortable to lean your feet on when wearing socks, nice rounded sides and a big smooth flat base
- The pedal faces and plastic orientation spacers are identical between both sets
- The T3PA plastic pedal arms have only two inset metal screw threads, as compared to 4 screw threads in the fully metal arms of the T500 pedals. This is actually annoying, because it doesn't look like you can rotate the pedal face 90 degrees on the T3PA, which is how I prefer mine on the T500 pedals for easy switching between right foot and left foot braking.
- There appear to be mounting points to use the rubber brake mod behind any of the three pedals on the T3PA. Assuming it is indeed the case, it opens up the possibility to map the clutch axis as a brake for pure left-foot-brakers in PC sims without needing to take everyhing apart and swap springs (not something I recall reading in any review).
- When in use I really can't tell the difference between the metal T500 pedal arms and the plastic T3PA pedal arms. Everything feels solid in both sets

Obviously the T3PA is a major improvement on the stock T300 pedals, specifically in braking accuracy (due to the much firmer spring) and pedal stability (the base weighs much more and doesn't twist when you stamp a single pedal, unlike the T300 set).

I'd say for most people the T3PA is a perfectly good choice (assuming those plastic pedal arms prove durable). The T3PA-Pro allows for switching pedal orientation, gives more pedal mounting flexibility, and provides a full metal construction, at the cost of a lighter clutch spring and twice the price.
 
825
Sweden
Sweden
TeamBubblegum
Does one need to mount the T3PA-Pro on a wheel stand or is it workable to place on the floor? I wouldn't like to be forced to buy a wheelstand to use the pedals.
 
7,045
Bahrain
Parts Unknown
PM me
PM me
Today i went to some local store to see the Logi G27 and the price, i didn't find a G27 being sold in that Store but however i found T3PA Pro pedal Set.

On amazon link on first page, it's sold for $150. The one in that store?? It's sold for like $503..... What the....🤬

It's not just this store, almost every store have a price tag around that. If everyone think that $150 for pedals is a rip off then what is $503 for just 3 pedals???:mad:
 
1,268
United States
CENLA
SoCaLLbeer
Does one need to mount the T3PA-Pro on a wheel stand or is it workable to place on the floor? I wouldn't like to be forced to buy a wheelstand to use the pedals.

Depends on the floor - but if you use the stiff conical brake mod i dont think it will stay in place even on a sticky hard floor. - IMO I would factor in something to support them. - they are T500 pedals basically so you can read from here https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-thrustmaster-t500rs-thread.135961/page-258#post-8707283

Today i went to some local store to see the Logi G27 and the price, i didn't find a G27 being sold in that Store but however i found T3PA Pro pedal Set.

On amazon link on first page, it's sold for $150. The one in that store?? It's sold for like $503..... What the....🤬

It's not just this store, almost every store have a price tag around that. If everyone think that $150 for pedals is a rip off then what is $503 for just 3 pedals???:mad:

The store was trying to sell just the T3PA-Pros for $500? That is insane - you can get a T500 for that much and it comes with the same pedals minis the conical brake mod which is just a $5-$10 rubber stop.
 
825
Sweden
Sweden
TeamBubblegum
Bought the 3TPA and the throttle developed a clicking sound after a two days usage. More delicate throttle depression at a certain range create more clicking noise. Very annoying. I hope I can get a new set :(
 
404
United States
Indianapolis, I
For those of you who might be interested, I'm making VERY good progress on a new load cell mod for the basic black T3PA (non-Pro) pedals.

Right now it looks like the design will be very similar to my BLC-T500 Load Cell mod for the T500/T3PA-Pro pedals, with a smaller 20kg load cell. The only thing I need to sort-out is how to couple the load cell to the pedals -- the existing rubber bumper that I'm using with the BLC-T500 Load Cell Mod will NOT work with the T3PA pedals. There is not as much clearance behind the brake pedal to work with as with the T500/T3PA-Pro pedals, so I'm going to have to locate something suitable to use as new bumper, but once I find a suitable solution, I should be able to start producing load cell mods for the T3PA pedals.

Pictures to follow once I get the prototype in a semi-final state.

On the T500 / T3PA-Pro front, I've got 5 "lightweight" (15kg) units on my workbench now awaiting assembly. This is going to be a limited, special run -- the 15kg units are well-suited for folks who don't have their pedals hard-mounted in a cockpit, or for folks who prefer a slightly lighter touch. I find that the 15kg units (versus my standard 35kg units) are a bit easier to modulate, and it's a bit more linear through full (max) braking (e.g., you have to press pretty hard with the 35kg units to get 100% braking).

FWIW, 35kg ~ 75lbs, and 15kg ~ 33lbs.

I will only be producing about 10 of these lightweight units, and after that I'll be going back to my "standard" 35kg units.

Hope to have the first of the limited run of "lightweights" available this week week.
 

Mr Latte

Underpowered Overdriven
Premium
4,815
United Kingdom
N Ireland
Thought I would share the mod I just completed. I have always been a left foot braker. I did several mods on the standard pedal set that came with the t300, foam golf ball, sanding block, RC shocks. They all made the brakes feel a bit more Nature but I still found them lacking. I really wanted the t3pa pro's for the conical brake mod but I have a Open wheeler seat that has a center mounting post for the steering wheel and it would make it impossible for me to reach the brake pedal. Since I paddle shift and really didn't need the clutch pedal, this is what I came up with:


View attachment 412562 View attachment 412564

Love these pedals, the brakes finally have the feel and response i was looking for. I found the gas pedal return spring a bit light so I also replaced it with a spring with about double the spring tension. All in all I'm now a very happy left foot braker.

How easy was the mod to do, any tips as I will be doing the same soon want to have the pedals (T500RS) hanging.
Also curious on your thoughts as it looks like Fanatecs new damper for V3 pedals may be attachable with some modding to Thrustmaster Pedals like some have down with RC Shocks.
 
9
United States
United States
How easy was the mod to do, any tips as I will be doing the same soon want to have the pedals (T500RS) hanging.
Also curious on your thoughts as it looks like Fanatecs new damper for V3 pedals may be attachable with some modding to Thrustmaster Pedals like some have down with RC Shocks.


It wasn't hard, but time consuming. The 3 modules are held together by the sheet metal covers and the shafts used to pivot the pedals when hung in GT configuration. Once the sheet metal was removed and the C clips taken off the shafts ends, except for the wiring, the models are independent.

The wiring for the pots is run through the housing. I ended up just cutting and re-splicing it then coiling and storing it as a spare behind the brake.
I bolted the modules to the foot plate of my sim rig.
I drilled holes in the kick plate to attach it to the tapped holes in the brake and excellerator model and cut a heavy plastic cover for behind the pedals.

I haven't looked at the Fanatecs yet,I'll take a look.
 
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9
United States
United States
It wasn't hard, but time consuming. The 3 modules are held together by the sheet metal covers and the shafts used to pivot the pedals when hung in GT configuration. Once the sheet metal was removed and the C clips taken off the shafts ends, except for the wiring, thhemodels are independent.

The wiring for the pots is run through the housing. I ended up just cutting and re-splicing it then coiling and storing it as a spare behind the brake.
I bolted the modules to the foot plate of my sim rig.
I drilled holes in the kick plate to attach it to the tapped holes in the brake and excellerator model and cut a heavy plastic cover for behind the pedals.
Thanks for reply friend...

This one, looks like a mod would be possible.
aV6edkZ.jpg

Looks like that might work.
 
404
United States
Indianapolis, I
It wasn't hard, but time consuming. The 3 modules are held together by the sheet metal covers and the shafts used to pivot the pedals when hung in GT configuration. Once the sheet metal was removed and the C clips taken off the shafts ends, except for the wiring, the models are independent.

The wiring for the pots is run through the housing. I ended up just cutting and re-splicing it then coiling and storing it as a spare behind the brake.
I bolted the modules to the foot plate of my sim rig.
I drilled holes in the kick plate to attach it to the tapped holes in the brake and excellerator model and cut a heavy plastic cover for behind the pedals.

I haven't looked at the Fanatecs yet,I'll take a look.

One thing to remember when doing R/C shock mods is that while it will give you a different pedal feel it's not really giving you pressure-sensitive pedals -- you are STILL sensing your braking input based on how far you move the pedal, because it's STILL the brake potentiometer that is reading your input (and that is a position-sensing device), so the R/C shock is just limiting the amount of travel available. This means that if you're using something like an R/C shock to limit your brake pedal travel, then you're using a smaller amount of the potentiometer for braking input, which is the same as reducing your braking resolution.

So, yeah, this might feel better, but it's not really going to make your braking input any more precise, just more limited.

This is why a pressure-sensitive brake pedal -- such as a load cell or hydraulic cylinder with a pressure transducer, for example -- will provide you more precise braking, and a more realistic feel (it's much easier for you to "learn" the muscle memory required to apply a certain amount of pressure with your foot than it is to learn the precise amount of distance you have to move your foot).

Just my $0.02, unsolicited though it may be.
 
146
United States
Danville
Glipizide78
Got my set and gt style with rubber mod installs and attached to rig..clutch feels way way loose, anything to be done for this? Gas feels good...brake, well that will get some getting used too. Overall pretty pleased with set so far
 
2,433
Netherlands
Netherlands
skazz-race
skazzracer
Got my set and gt style with rubber mod installs and attached to rig..clutch feels way way loose, anything to be done for this? Gas feels good...brake, well that will get some getting used too. Overall pretty pleased with set so far
The clutch and accelerator are the same strength because you can switch orientation in which case the functions of the two pedals swap over.

If you look on the net you can find mods using foam and extra springs. You could even use the brake mod on the clutch if you wanted....
 
146
United States
Danville
Glipizide78
The clutch and accelerator are the same strength because you can switch orientation in which case the functions of the two pedals swap over.

If you look on the net you can find mods using foam and extra springs. You could even use the brake mod on the clutch if you wanted....
Never thought of that lol...will get back to you it
 
404
United States
Indianapolis, I
If you have the T3PA-Pro pedals, I strongly recommend trying them in the inverted (GT style) position, FWIW -- for me, the pedal angle is a LOT better / more natural. Make sure you also flip the pedals and the spacers, so the pedal faces are properly positioned. Makes a big difference in driving comfort for me.
 
146
United States
Danville
Glipizide78
Inverted to gt soon as took them out of the box..wasnt used to having strong break so taking some getting used too it. Main gripe I have right now is this...for the price they charged, when inverted the diamond plate should line up without having to be redrilled. Took it and going without foot plate..working so far
 
2,433
Netherlands
Netherlands
skazz-race
skazzracer
Inverted to gt soon as took them out of the box..wasnt used to having strong break so taking some getting used too it. Main gripe I have right now is this...for the price they charged, when inverted the diamond plate should line up without having to be redrilled. Took it and going without foot plate..working so far
It shouldn't have to be redrilled because the holes for both setups are pre-drilled. When lining mine up inverted I found I needed to squeeze things into place a little, but the holes were already in the diamond plate and worked in the end.

If you have no holes, then clearly something went wrong with your diamond plate. Or you are trying to place it incorrectly...
 
18
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
DJ_Devious
It shouldn't have to be redrilled because the holes for both setups are pre-drilled. When lining mine up inverted I found I needed to squeeze things into place a little, but the holes were already in the diamond plate and worked in the end.

If you have no holes, then clearly something went wrong with your diamond plate. Or you are trying to place it incorrectly...

I had the same problem as Glipizide78, when I inverted the pedals, the diamond plate only lined up with 3 of the 4 screws.

My T3PA-Pro was ordered mid-June so I wonder if there was a duff batch of holes drilled in the bottom bar or incorrectly welded side retaining bolts?
 
1,391
United States
vermont
diesel4x497
I had the same problem as Glipizide78, when I inverted the pedals, the diamond plate only lined up with 3 of the 4 screws.

My T3PA-Pro was ordered mid-June so I wonder if there was a duff batch of holes drilled in the bottom bar or incorrectly welded side retaining bolts?

Are the mounting hole's the same on either set up ? I had to drill my pedal plate for the F1 style and i though when i looked at the GT set up the holes didn't line up
 
825
Sweden
Sweden
TeamBubblegum
I returned the T3PA as it had problems described in post 222. Instead I got the T3PA-Pro and that was worth it I thought and all was well... until after two weeks usage when it started to develop the exact same unsmooth clicking like it's not oiled or something like the previous returned pedals. :(
Also note the first sound as if it gets released from sticky tape. The paddles on the T300 have the same thing. I can live with that but not with the unsmooth pedal. This is a core function, why can't they get it right? Do you have this? Am I very unlucky having had two sets of these with the same problem or what it going on? Return or fix? I worry if I return it I'll get a new set with another problem with maybe deadzone that the first set had but not my current. This sucks.