Photo Finish Racing - 2.10 How-To Updates/Amendments

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WrecklessAbandon
fujispeedwayfs.jpg
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Here are all of my thoughts/findings on suspension setup.

2.10 Updated

Ride Height
Higher ride height gives more straight-line acceleration grip.
Lower ride height gives more cornering grip.
A lower rear than front will help the car rotate, a higher rear than front will keep a car from over rotating.

2.09 update
Lower seems to have more grip, but setting it so low it bottoms out is far worse than setting it too high. Find a safe low position where bottoming out isn't an issue on your particular track.
Since 2.09, the greatest effect of ride height f/r relation, is corner entry/exit behavior. A lower front than rear increases entry oversteer, and exit understeer. A lower rear than front will have more understeer on entry, and more oversteer on exit.


Springs
High spring rate has shown to actually increase straight-line traction, so higher spring rate may increase overall grip.
Stiffer front than rear will help the car rotate, stiffer rear than front keeps the back end in line.

2.09 update
Stiffer still has more grip, softer is generally easier to drive.
Like the ride height, raise(stiffen) the front higher than the rear for entry oversteer and exit understeer, lower(softer) the front and stiffen the rear for more understeer on entry and oversteer on exit.


Dampers - Extension "corner exit"
Set about 65% of compression.
The best effect I've found to use this for, is to balance the car while on the throttle. If a car is rotating too much when on the throttle, set the rear higher than the front,(6/7) if it's not rotating enough, set the front higher than the rear.(7/6)
2.09 addition
After testing for months, I've determined that setting the compression higher than the extension feels best to me. I usually aim to run to extension at about 60-80% of the compression.


Dampers - Compression "corner entry"
Set to about 150% of extension.
Same as above, but works on deceleration/braking. Higher front increases rotation, higher rear decreases rotation.


Swaybars
Mostly preference, i.e, how much do you want your car to lean, and how well to absorb bumps? The negative effect of low ARB settings, is your car will become very slow to respond, and encounter a lot of body roll, which is bad for quick direction changes.
The negative effect of a high ARB setting is the car will jump and hop over bumps much easier.


Camber
Classic GT4 2.0/1.0 is always my starting point. Camber affects tire wear, so should be used sparingly when tire wear is a factor, maximum grip/camber depends on tires being used though, I believe. More for racing tires than sports, etc. I typically never run higher then 2.2 on front, and 1.2 on rear, or lower then 1.5 front, 0.8 rear.
Both front and rear camber add cornering grip, and even acceleration traction while turning. The downside, is camber negatively affects straight-line acceleration grip, the higher the camber on the drive wheels, the less straight line grip you'll have.
2.09 addition:
Higher front/rears effects on entry/exit.
2.0/1.0 is still my standard.
Increasing the rear camber/lowering the front, for example, 1.5/1.5, would promote less oversteer on entry and more on exit.
Contrarily, a setup of 3.0/1.0 would oversteer more on entry and less on exit.
*Higher camber settings overall decrease straight-line braking grip, and increase braking grip while cornering.(same as acceleration)


Toe:
Another tire wear factor. I usually run 0.00/0.00 on most cars.
Negative front toe decreases steering response, making a car easier to steer, but can be slow in response.
Positive front toe quickens steering response, but can lose overall front grip.
Negative rear toe decreases rear grip, but allows the car to rotate more freely, too far and it will become very twitchy - be careful.
Positive rear toe increases rear grip, but can quickly kill your tires, and can also make the car difficult to turn.
The greatest effect of rear toe is the "moment of inertia". Negative makes it happen faster, positive makes it happen slower.
2.09 addition (not necessarily new from 2.09 though)
Negative (-) front toe increases rotation on entry, and decreases it on exit.
Positive (+) front toe increases rotation on exit, and decreases it on entry.


LSD
Initial: How quickly the LSD activates once it senses wheel spin, meaning a low setting allows lots of wheel spin before "turning on", and a high setting "turns on" almost immediately.
Accel: Affects on-throttle driving. When you're on the throttle, this determines how much faster either wheel is "allowed" to spin more than the other. A low setting will allow you to bake the inside tire exiting corners, a high setting will bake the outside tire.
Decel: Same as accel, but only works when completely off the throttle. The greatest effect of LSD decel is seen when downshifting hard entering a corner on the brakes, though it affects the car whether on the brakes or not.


Brakes
Higher will stop you faster (with ABS on anyway), but will be much harder to trail-brake into corners, for being so touchy. Lower is better for trail-braking, but will give slightly longer braking distances. I usually run between 2 and 4 for BB settings when tire wear is involved.


ABS 1 is the fastest of ABS settings, though a setting of 2 helped me until very recently as I've started working on my trail braking, but if you're allowed, 2-3 can work very good, and ease on your tire wear.




How I start tuning a car:​
Start - To start, I go through available parts and see what is available, based on what's available I'll buy everything I think I want before I hit the track, it's always a pain to have to run back out for an engine stage or weight reduction once you're tuning. :ouch:
Take it online, preferably on a more over-steery course like Laguna Seca, GVS, Nurburgring, etc, for any tunes that I want to work everywhere, these tracks contain certain over-steer inducing corners that will show flaws that will not show on smooth un-banked tracks like Motegi.
Settings - 1st time in...
Aero: Depends on the aero available. If it's a street car running the typical 0-20 or generally any rear-biased down force as usual I'll start with minimum or close to it. It also depends if I'm aiming for PP or fixed HP/WT, etc. If it's fixed regulations max aero is probably fastest, and you'll save lap times by running max aero and doing extra suspension work to make the car rotate.
If it's a race car, I always start at max aero for almost any track when the PP is higher than 620, below that it's more of a guessing game if PP is the regulation, particularly on slower cars like GT300's.
On low powered street cars on PP regs, aero is almost never a good idea, for a rough guesstimation aero only starts to gain value on cars with at least 420PP, even then any possible gains would likely be small. 500PP on SH's is where you'll start to look more seriously into aero, but of course as tires change, aero needs change.

Chassis: I only add chassis stiffening to very loose cars. As a general rule, if a car requires positive toe, I'll install the reinforcement.
On heavily under-steering cars, I'll usually not refresh an old chassis either, the extra rotation gained from chassis flex is beneficial, not harmful to these cars.
Chassis refresh does NOT wear out for 3,000 miles!

Weight: Generally as low as possible, to 900KG's. On very low PP, more weight, allowing more power can be beneficial, but still no more than 1100KG's if possible usually. On some cars the weight might come in at "1037KG", on these I'll usually add a small amount of weight to the light side if they're lopsided, like a FF or RR. 1037 I would add 13KG to the light end, these small amounts play what I find to be a little stronger than they should impact on handling and behavior of the car.
The most critical element to weight is that if traction is an issue, it's never beneficial to remove weight from the drive wheels and add ballast to the other wheels. For example the RUF Yellowbird, one could apply weight reduction and add ballast to the front to make the car stock weight, but less over-steering. It works, but it removes acceleration grip from the rear tires, effectively making the car slower. Anything you gain from it gets cancelled out this way in my encounters. Of course if traction isn't a problem, have at it, just don't add weight unless you're required, or below the 900KG mark.

Engine: RPM adders give the most HP per PP, so I usually start with them. On some cars, high rpm turbos make for a great HP-PP gain as well. I only use engine stages for "maxed out" cars and when needed to reach a PP amount.
On some smaller engines, while the HP will increase more from RPM adders, the weakening of the already-poor power band is too much, and performance suffers. There are engine that yield better acceleration at a given PP using the non rpm adders to help the power band.
Low rpm turbos can be a good option for PP racing is some cases, I'm not sure mid rpm turbos are ever a good idea for PP racing though, superchargers rarely. (Assuming other parts can be used instead)

Transmission: Lower top speed slider to minimum, lower final drive until the gearing is as long as I want it. Sometimes I can't get the gearing long enough this way, so I'll reset to default, and set the top speed slider a bit higher so I have the speed I want when I lower the final drive again.
1st gear: Longer (Usually within 200 clicks of far left)
2nd: depends on first, if first was moved all the way left, 2nd will go about 100 clicks left, if first is shorter, 2nd will be shorter as well.
3rd: Almost always quicker, in the event of a long 2nd 3rd will stay put, usually 50-100 clicks right.
4th: Move until it shows on the graph as beginning at a slightly higher rpm than 3rd.
5th/6th: A little quicker than fourth.
6th/7th: Depending on the power band, if it's narrow the gears need to be specific for top speed, if it's wide I just set it as long (equal on graph) as the gear before it and make sure the car has enough gearing to run most any track.

LSD: I Start at 5/5/5 5/5/5 as free as possible, to feel the natural handling of the car. I'll raise this later once I have the suspension sorted by starting (usually) around 7/10/5 and rising. I usually raise in increments of 1 or 2 on the accel, and occasionally raising the initial by 1 as well.Example: 7/10/5 = Inside wheelspin - 7/12/5, = inside wheelspin - 8/13/5, until it's where it suits me. Generally speaking, if I can't decide between 2 close settings, I decide based on the car. Easy to drive - higher, harder to drive - lower.
The main causes for lower LSD settings are harder tire compound, lower mechanical grip(or massive power) and over-steer.
The causes to raise the LSD are softer tire compound, extra mechanical grip (by downforce or programming of PD), and under-steer.

Torque Dist: Depends on the power/weight, but if traction is needed I'll usually start at 25/75 or 70/30, if not probably 90/10.

Suspension: If I know what to expect from the car, I'll make a few small tweaks off the bat, but the almost "always" settings I start from are these...
Ride height: 0/0
Spring: Generally speaking I set my springs based on weight distribution, for example, a 60/40 balance will have the front springs stiffer than the rear at a 6 to 4 ratio. Maybe 6.0/4.0, or 9.0/5.5, etc. Stiffer on heavier cars and cars with downforce, Stiffer on stickier tires.
Shock - Extension: Lower 1-2 depending if the compression is raised or left put.
Shock - Compression: Usually raise 1, unless it's a high default setting like 7 or 8, in which case I leave it there.
ARB - Between 1/1-7/7 to start. Lighter car, less downforce, stiffer springs, etc, lower arb, and vice versa. The ARB is the most critical part in keeping your car from going crazy when you hit bumps or uneven surfaces, so I start with the lower guesstimate, I'd only start at 7/7 for a very flat track in a race car when I want absolute precision.

Camber: 2.0/1.0 - GT4 default, never a terrible setup. In more extreme cases where I expect under-over steer, 2.0/1.5 or 2.5/1.0, etc might be my starting point.
Toe: Usually 0.00/0.00 is my default. As always, if I expect over/under steer, I'll start at +0.10 or -0.10 on the rear.

Brakes: Usually 5/5, 4/6 or 6/4 if I expect problems.
ABS: Never higher than 1. Set it to off and you'll want to run BB in the 0-4 ranges, with a low rear.


More detail:


Springs
Generally speaking I set my springs based on weight distribution, for example, this VW Golf has a natural balance of 63/37. 6.3/3.7. To increase by 10%, you would add 6 to the front and 4 to the rear. 6.9/4.1. To add 10 percent more, 7 and 4, 7.6/4.5, etc.
the numbers do get slightly skewed making big changes this way, so I'll either go with exact double (12.6/7.4) or 1.5 (9.5/5.6)
All equally balanced setups, different level of stiffness.

Weight balance/ballast
Adding 35KG to the rear, I changed the car balance to 61/39. This changes the original numbers (6.3/3.7) to 6.1/3.9. On the 1150KG setup, balance is up to 57/43. By keeping in line with this principle, I generally make no other changes when adding ballast. Of course depending on the car and nature of ballast placement, you may need to do more to retain the same handling when you add ballast, but this is what I believe is the proper place to start, and it's how I do it every time.
I moved away from this technique while "learning" GT5's tuning, but since I've gone back to it I find it just as good as I did in all previous GT titles.

Actual Spring Rate Used
Different spring rates affect different cars differently. A LOT.
Lighter cars don't do well with overly stiff springs, heavy cars don't do well with soft spring. The same applies with downforce and grade of tires used. An F1 car might use 20.0/20.0 due to RS tires and high downforce, but a stock Elise would bounce around the track despite it's extra weight.
Because of all this it's impossible to make "universal" settings in the line of stiffness. What works great on SS tires at Motegi probably doubles for RS on Nurburgring, but would be too bouncy and harsh if you kept the SS tires.
this is why I have started and will continue to offer different variations depending on weight, tire grade and even downforce.

How to: The tranny trick
 
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2.09-2.10 Tunes:
*Some cars posted PP levels will be inaccurate due to 2.10 changes


Spoon S2000 Race Car '00

Saleen S7 - 550PP

Chevrolet Corvette Z06 RM '06 - 600PP

Nissan Fairlady Z '08 - 450PP

Honda Mugen Motul Civic Si Race Car '87 - 450PP

Chevrolet Camaro Z28 '69 RM - 540PP

Mazda 787B - 650PP Dry

Mazda 787B - 650PP Rain

Renault Clio Sport Trophy Race Car

Acura NSX RM -

BMW 320i Touring Car -

AEM S2000 - Any PP

Re Amemiya RX7 '06

Honda S2000 LM Race Car

Lamborghini Gallardo LBST Race Car

Ford SVT F-150 Lightning

BMW M3 CSL -

Chevrolet Camaro Z28 '97

Lotus Evora '09

Super GT's @ Suzuka

Super GT's @ Laguna Seca
Tom's Petronas & Denso Sard SC430
Xanavi, Calsonic, Yellowhat, Motul GT-R
Nissan Xanavi Nismo Z







2.08 and previous tunes:

Replica Tunes:

Lotus Exige S '06

BMW 1M



SuperGT Online Tunes:

Nissan Calsonic GTR '08

Toyota WedsSport Celica '03

Takata Dome NSX '03

Arta NSX '00

Castrol Mugen NSX

Castrol Mugen NSX (Nurburgring)

Mobil 1 NSX

Lexus Bandai SC430 Super GT

YMS Supra SuperGT

Nissan Xanavi NISMO Z SuperGT

Toyota Castrol Tom's Supra '97

Lexus Eneos SC430 SuperGT

Nissan Calsonic, Motul, Xanavi, YMS GTR SuperGT - STABLE

Nissan Calsonic, Motul, Xanavi, YMS GTR SuperGT - LOOSE

Lexus PETRONAS/Denso Sard SC430 '08 - STABLE

Lexus PETRONAS/Denso Sard SC430 '08 - LOOSE

Honda Stealth, Raybrig, Arta, Takata NSX - STABLE

Honda Stealth, Raybrig, Arta, Takata NSX - LOOSE


Universal Tunes: (Online or Offline)

Volkswagon Golf IV '01 - Universal

RE Amemiya FD35 RX-7 - Universal

Dodge Viper ACR '08 - Universal 600PP - R-Tires

Dodge Viper GTS '02 - With/Without Wing

Chevrolet Camaro SS '10 - Racing Modified

Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero '02 + GTA Edition - Stock to Maxed - W/Without ballast, W/Without wing.

Acura NSX RM '91

Acura NSX '91 - Stock to Maxed - With/Without Wing

Aston Martin V12 Vantage '10 - Stock to Maxed - with/without wing

Scion FR-S 450-520PP - with/without wing

TVR Speed 12 650PP+ - with/without wing

Nissan Calsonic GTR '08

Toyota WedsSport Celica '03

RUF Yellowbird - (Stock)

Lexus IS-F

Lexus LFA '10

Mazda RX-7 Spirit R '02



Online Tunes:

Nissan Fairlady Z '08 - 550PP

Honda NSX Type-R '02 - 525/550PP

Chevrolet Camaro SS '10 - 550PP/RS

BMW M3 CSL '03

Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 '09 - Online @ 600PP

Mazda RX-7 TC - (Stock)

Corvette Z06 RM - (Stock)

Mazda Miata TC - 265HP - 795KG - SS Tires

Honda Integra Type R '04 RM - 295HP

Ford GT '06 - 550-600PP

Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STI Spec C Type RA '05 - 500PP

Subaru Impreza Coupe WRS TypeR STI Version VI '99 - (Stock)

TVR Tamora '02 - 561PP

Lamborghini LP 870-4 SV - 641PP

BMW M5 '08 - 590+ PP

BMW M5 '05 - 600 PP



Track Specific Tunes:

Chevrolet Camaro SS '10 RM - 4 Tracks - Online

Toyota WedsSport Celica '03 - 3 Tracks - Online

RE Amemiya Asparadrink RX7 '06 @ Nurburgring GP/F Online

Ferrari Enzo - Offline

Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro '09 - Offline

Lotus Elise 111R '04 - Offline

Lexus Bandai Direzza SC430 '06 - Offline

Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STI '10 - Offline



Nurburgring/Universal Offline Tunes:

YMS Supra SuperGT

Honda S2000 '06

Acura Integra Type R '01

Dodge Viper ACR

Mercedes CLK Touring Car

McLaren F1 '94

Daihatsu Copen Active Top '02

Mazda Autozam AZ-1 '92

Ford F-150 SVT Lightning '03

Ferrari Enzo '02

Audi R8 Race Car Team Playstation (Oreca) '05

TVR Cerbera Speed 6 '97

Ferrari F430 Scuderia '07

Audi R10 TDI Race car '06

Ford GT LM Spec-II Test Car

Ferrari 458 Italia '09



WRS Tunes:

Honda Takata Dome NSX '06

Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car

RE Amemiya Asparadrink RX7 '06

Lexus DENSO Dunlop Sard SC430 '08

Opel Astra Super Team Pheonix (Oreca) '00

ABT Audi TT-R Touring Car '02


BMW M3 GTR Race Car '01



Drag Tunes:

Dodge Viper ACR '08



Top Speed Tunes:

Dodge Viper ACR '08



Shootout Tunes:

Audi R8 4.2 FSI R-Tronic '07

Lancia Stratos '73

Dodge Viper ACR '08

2001 Acura Integra Type R

Honda S2000 '06

Lexus IS-F

Lexus LFA '10

Mazda RX-7 Spirit R '02

Nissan Calsonic GTR '08

Toyota Weddsport Celica '03



Rally Tunes:

Renault Clio

Lancia Stratos '73
 
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Awesome to see your first tune is my favourite Super GT. :D Good luck with the garage, and hope to see many more tunes from you, you speed freak. :D
 
Just think how much more time you'll lose looking at my pretty picture now. :D

Loose ?? What loose ? this pic make me happy everytime. It make me smile, really, at the job ,in the middle of the rush.... anywhere.
Don't change it please , or just for Eva mendes...Eva ? can be! But not now please.
 
Congratulations and good luck. Looking forward to seeing more of your work.:)👍👍
 
Loose ?? What loose ? this pic make me happy everytime. It make me smile, really, at the job ,in the middle of the rush.... anywhere.
Don't change it please , or just for Eva mendes...Eva ? can be! But not now please.

I actually stare at the picture and get lost in space.I think my brain turns to jello during this time. :lol:
 
you definitely need to do a BMW CSL as your official garage car. I am excited to try your tunes as you drive so much better than most people
 
you definitely need to do a BMW CSL as your official garage car. I am excited to try your tunes as you drive so much better than most people
I have one in the works, it'll take the place of the current, which I already posted in Outlaw's garage.
You guys need to get a lil ;) lol :P
Nice to see you with your own Shop, would of thought you would open with a CSL or ACR for some reason, lol
I have a fairly new, unrivaled love for SuperGT cars, I'm hoping to do them all. :crazy:
Loose ?? What loose ? this pic make me happy everytime. It make me smile, really, at the job ,in the middle of the rush.... anywhere.
Don't change it please , or just for Eva mendes...Eva ? can be! But not now please.
No Eva, just Demi. :P
I actually stare at the picture and get lost in space.I think my brain turns to jello during this time. :lol:
Praiano - This is why. :D
Awesome to see your first tune is my favourite Super GT. :D Good luck with the garage, and hope to see many more tunes from you, you speed freak. :D
Have you tried the tune? I know it's not balanced properly for Cape Ring, but on the special events GP/F and Laguna it was fantastic for me.

I should tell you all, I accidentally deleted my game save today, so a couple other tunes I'd had are now lost in forever, so I'm going to do some IMPROV (gets excited) :lol:
 
Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car
redbullhangar71w.jpg

Tuned @ Special Stage Route 5
Engine Stage 3
727HP - 1165KG - RS Tires


Aero:
Suspension:
50 / 70
-21 / -30​
Gears:
14.4 / 15.3​
Default
7/9​
Top Speed 174mph (280)
7/9​
4.xxx (didn't use)
5/5​
2572
Camber/Toe:
2090
2.6 / 2.1​
1690
0.00 / 0.00​
1380
Brakes:
1140
BB: 9/5​
Final: 2.740
ABS:7​
LSD:

12/19/10


Notes: Suspension, LSD, and Brakes tuned by Vagabond, dropped my time at SSR5 from 1:10.358 to 1:09.853
 
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RE Amemiya Asparadrink RX7 '06
3555407850abecd9cbf8.jpg

Tuned at Fuji Speedway F
Engine Stage 3


395HP - 1100KG - RM Tires

Aero:
Suspension:
35 / 35
10 / -10​
Gears:
16.8 / 10.4​
Default
8/4​
Top Speed 149
6/2​
3404
5/2​
2500
Camber/Toe:
2090
2.7 / 1.1​
1695
0.00 / 0.00​
1385
Brakes:
1127
BB: 7/4​
Final: 3.688
ABS:3​
LSD:

14/10/12


Notes: 1:37.393 @ Fuji F
 
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Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STI '10
gambarsedansubaruimprez.jpg

Tuned at Laguna Seca
Parts List is everything except as follows:
No Sports catalytic converter
No Sports ECU
No Engine stages at all
No Transmission.
You will have to add ballast to make 1250KG's, add all weight to rear, and detune engine to achieve 395HP.


395HP - 1250KG - 523PP - SH Tires

Aero:
Suspension:
0/5
-5 / -25​
LSD:
11.5 / 6.0​
5 / 10
6 / 3​
5 / 15
5 / 3​
10 / 10
5 / 2​
Torque Distribution:
Camber/Toe:
25 / 75
2.3 / 0.5​
Brakes:
-0.02 / -0.10​
6/4 - ABS:1
Stock Transmission

Notes: This is a tune specifically aimed toward the seasonal events challenge online, if anyone might need a boost, this did very well for me.
And yes, the stock transmission works excellent with this tune, all I would do with a custom is aim for these gears.
 
CSLACR
Have you tried the tune? I know it's not balanced properly for Cape Ring, but on the special events GP/F and Laguna it was fantastic for me.

My PS3 is currently sitting about a 2 hour flight away from where I am, so no I haven't. Also I actually find the stock tune to be alright around Cape Ring so it shouldn't matter too much if it doesn't work there :D
 
My PS3 is currently sitting about a 2 hour flight away from where I am, so no I haven't. Also I actually find the stock tune to be alright around Cape Ring so it shouldn't matter too much if it doesn't work there :D
I would actually encourage users, (especially any that haven't golded the seasonal expert challenge races) to try the Subaru tune.
Even if it has been beaten, it's by worlds the best Subaru I've driven in years, I don't know whether it's because I didn't know squat about tuning for most of that time, or because I never tried other peoples tunes either.
It might even be better on SS's, I'll have to try it.
 
Yeah yeah yea, I have to wait to get another CSL now, a friend should be sending me one shortly. :D
Is that what is scheduled for me to send you today? Give me a pm with what car I should send today with full name and year so I don't mess up.
 
XDesperado67
Is that what is scheduled for me to send you today? Give me a pm with what car I should send today with full name and year so I don't mess up.

Hook her up BMW M3 CSL & a ACR if she ain't got one. 8)

I wish I could pick up a CSL from yah too, mine is too done up to be any good in the Shootout.
 
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Yeah yeah yea, I have to wait to get another CSL now, a friend should be sending me one shortly. :D

Let me know if that exchange doesn't work out. I believe I've got a completely untouched CSL parked out back ... I have a habit of buying them when I seem them. "Them" being the CSL, the GTR and the vanilla M3. Not a fan of the current gen M3, in game or life...

{Cy}
 
Let me know if that exchange doesn't work out. I believe I've got a completely untouched CSL parked out back ... I have a habit of buying them when I seem them. "Them" being the CSL, the GTR and the vanilla M3. Not a fan of the current gen M3, in game or life...

{Cy}
Identical opinions. :D
I you have any low mileage that'd be super, but as for a regular CSL from the USD I have one now, but appreciate the offer either way.👍
 
I would actually encourage users, (especially any that haven't golded the seasonal expert challenge races) to try the Subaru tune.
Even if it has been beaten, it's by worlds the best Subaru I've driven in years, I don't know whether it's because I didn't know squat about tuning for most of that time, or because I never tried other peoples tunes either.
It might even be better on SS's, I'll have to try it.

Thanks, D, I'll be trying the Subaru tune, hopefully tonight. I've only managed 2nd in that Expert Seasonal, in countless attempts, using random other tunes I found on here. I know from WRS that your tunes are usually rockin'. 👍
Which turbo did you use for the Subaru?

I can also help with sending you cars, given your "loss". :)
 
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Thanks, D, I'll be trying the Subaru tune, hopefully tonight. I've only managed 2nd in that Expert Seasonal, in countless attempts, using random other tunes I found on here. I know from WRS that your tunes are usually rockin'. 👍
Which turbo did you use for the Subaru?

I can also help with sending you cars, given your "loss". :)
If you have any issues with the tune, let me know, and I'll try to give you adjustements that will help more. 👍
 
Ford F-150 SVT Lightning '03
2004fordsvtf150lightnin.jpg


Tuned @ Nurburgring
All modifications except wing, engine tuning, & exhaust.
No power limiter used.


478HP - 1610KG - 499PP


Aero:
Suspension:
0/0
+20 / -35​
Gears:
10.2 / 6.2​
Default
5/3​
TS Slider stays at default 149mph
5.3​
2695
4/3​
1900
Camber/Toe:
1450
2.4 / 0.5​
1120
-0.10 / 0.00​
0880
Brakes:
Final: 3.300
BB: 6/3​
LSD:
ABS:1​
10 / 25 / 15


Notes: Shift @ Shift Light. :)
 
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You can get a wing for the SVT Lightning?
Also what sort of times were you running at Nürburgring Nordschleife?
 
You can get a wing for the SVT Lightning?
Also what sort of times were you running at Nürburgring Nordschleife?
I don't know, just figured I'd specify no wing.
I ran a 7:29.7xx on my second lap, first lap with this exact tune, very easy to drive this around the track. 👍
 
I don't know, just figured I'd specify no wing.
I ran a 7:29.7xx on my second lap, first lap with this exact tune, very easy to drive this around the track. 👍
Okay...just thought a truck with a wing would look wild.:crazy:
Just sent the Raybrig...not sure where to find the Yellowhat SC430 at. Will start working on your tune in the next day or two.
 
Okay...just thought a truck with a wing would look wild.:crazy:
Just sent the Raybrig...not sure where to find the Yellowhat SC430 at. Will start working on your tune in the next day or two.

It look !!!! and it's fast. Chevrolet SSR '03

Did you try this one??

roadcourseindy1fx.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Okay...just thought a truck with a wing would look wild.:crazy:
Just sent the Raybrig...not sure where to find the Yellowhat SC430 at. Will start working on your tune in the next day or two.
Where to find the Lexus? In the Lexus dealer. :P:lol: (seriously though)

It look !!!! and it's fast. Chevrolet SSR '03

Did you try this one??

roadcourseindy1fx.jpg
[/IMG]
I might have to, the SVT was a surprising blast compared to what I experienced with it before. :crazy:
 
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