ACC PS4 G29 settings

  • Thread starter aaron0288
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Quick question to all those with a G29...finally got mine on Thursday and one thing I have noticed is just how hard it is to use the brake pedal on the g29

I understand it has a black stopper fitted as standard

is it worth removing this to get a more responsive brake pedal rather than it only travelling so far and then going stiff?

Have you guys removed yours and found it a lot better ?

I have read somewhere that the pedal set needs calibrating every time I turn it on the PS4...the wheel obviously does this automatically but should i press each pedal down 100% to calibrate every time as well ?
 
I've removed mine. Makes getting full brake pressure easy.

I just plug my wheel in and boot the game up. No calibrating.
 
I've removed mine. Makes getting full brake pressure easy.

I just plug my wheel in and boot the game up. No calibrating.

You finding braking on the game fluid then ? I am struggling at present when braking - when the pedal hits that stopper you have to put an unusual amount of pressure to try and get the car to slow down enough

I think I might remove then later today
 
Has anyone actually replaced the factory black brake damper with anything else ? They have used as a diy alternative

I know there is a Ricmotech set you can buy but I believe the replacement damper they use is similar to a piece of fuel line
 
You finding braking on the game fluid then ? I am struggling at present when braking - when the pedal hits that stopper you have to put an unusual amount of pressure to try and get the car to slow down enough

I think I might remove then later today

Yes, it's fine with the stopper removed and some gain added (currently using 3.00).

I've had a GTEYE spring in the past... they work OK, but you can pretty much use anything once you gain the muscle memory.
 
You know that race cars are common to have up to around 95kg off pedal pressure to achieve full braking.
Looks like acc is keeping it accurate to reality although I know that’s no consolation to those using wheel stands as opposed to a rig.

I find the brake set up in acc makes trail braking much easier as well as wet weather as it makes lock ups less likely. Or should I say stops abs from kicking in to much.
 
You know that race cars are common to have up to around 95kg off pedal pressure to achieve full braking.
Looks like acc is keeping it accurate to reality although I know that’s no consolation to those using wheel stands as opposed to a rig.
The significant difference is that in a race car you're physically having to resist something like 2g in braking so you need a brake pedal that requires a lot of force as you're literally being pressed into it with more than your body weight. You have to react that deceleration force through your braking leg (and on the harnesses of course).
You obviously don't have that deceleration force on a rig to react.

You need some force to get some finesse but i don't think there's any need to go over say 20-40 kg on a static rig (depending on your strength)
 
Hi guys, @fbetes is a Spanish player that posted in a Spanish forum his G29 settings, he's quite happy with the FFB the game offer,so i let here his settings

Gain: 98%
Min Force:12%
Damping:50%
Road effects:20%

Rotation lock as car needs:
BloqueoGiroACC.jpg
 
Hi guys, @fbetes is a Spanish player that posted in a Spanish forum his G29 settings, he's quite happy with the FFB the game offer,so i let here his settings

Gain: 98%
Min Force:12%
Damping:50%
Road effects:20%

Rotation lock as car needs:
View attachment 937413

Not far off mine but there’s simply no way you can have the Gain up that high without lots of wheel clipping. I have it at 60 and still get some clipping when the car bottoms out, Eau Rouge being the worst culprit.
 
Has anyone actually replaced the factory black brake damper with anything else ? They have used as a diy alternative

I know there is a Ricmotech set you can buy but I believe the replacement damper they use is similar to a piece of fuel line

Yes. I have the nixim mod spring and they supplied a different even firmer stopper than the black rubber. No idea what it is but harder rubber is my best description. This is what I trimmed down. I then put the original brake spring in the clutch and the clutch spring in the accelerator pedal
 
I am tempted to order one of them but I am unsure about the pressure required for max brakes as I am in a separate wheel stand and chair set up not a solid rig. Pedals are bolted too the stand but the old black logitech rubber would start to tip the chair before it hit full pressure. I am not small or light either whilst it looks like a great upgrade I would like more reviews from users such as yourself if possible including what sort of setup you have
 
I am tempted to order one of them but I am unsure about the pressure required for max brakes as I am in a separate wheel stand and chair set up not a solid rig. Pedals are bolted too the stand but the old black logitech rubber would start to tip the chair before it hit full pressure. I am not small or light either whilst it looks like a great upgrade I would like more reviews from users such as yourself if possible including what sort of setup you have
You can check my specs in the description in that video :) would be a lot to write it down now
 
Just skimmed it. Looks like a separate wheel stand and PEDALS. On my phone so harder to see but looks like you are wedged in front of the TV stand which is what I do to stop it moving. You are at the same point I just got to in the career mode but I am slower and chose the NSX.
 
Just skimmed it. Looks like a separate wheel stand and PEDALS. On my phone so harder to see but looks like you are wedged in front of the TV stand which is what I do to stop it moving. You are at the same point I just got to in the career mode but I am slower and chose the NSX.
I've put it next to the stand to stop it shaking :D earlier sides were hitting stands legs and making a rattle :) so I pushed it as much as I can into it :) no more noise :)
 
@GopNet

I am considering the MVH Studios Brake spring.

Do you know if there is any discount codes around ?

Also is it really easy to replace it with the old spring, and did you remove the old black rubber stopper completely ?
 
Replace the spring is easy. It's about 30 screws which 12 hold the pedals and the rest were the base plate screws with the pedal board upside down. I took mine apart 4 or 5 times last week trying different combinations of spacers and rubbers. I even swapped the clutch and brake position over to try and see if it was more comfortable. The mvh brake mod also looks easy to fit as it replaces the whole lower half of the brake assembly and swap the wires
 
@GopNet

I am considering the MVH Studios Brake spring.

Do you know if there is any discount codes around ?

Also is it really easy to replace it with the old spring, and did you remove the old black rubber stopper completely ?
unfortunately I don't know nothing about discount codes for now :( that guy just started his own website like a month ago ? so it's still work in progress :) actually he's working now on quick release for G29 :) by the way :) there are two ways to replace the spring :) either from top or from bottom like @BigSoloFish mentioned :) i still got rubber in mine :) only attachment I've made is finding a good rubber seal (I forgot the diameter :( ) and putting in that groove on top of red cylinder :) so far I can't really complain :)
 
I think I am getting confused with all these three letter sim racing sites as I have looked at so many lately. They are different companies I was looking at the phone holder and custom wheels on there the other day and then mixed it up with the one I linked to.
 
unfortunately I don't know nothing about discount codes for now :( that guy just started his own website like a month ago ? so it's still work in progress :) actually he's working now on quick release for G29 :) by the way :) there are two ways to replace the spring :) either from top or from bottom like @BigSoloFish mentioned :) i still got rubber in mine :) only attachment I've made is finding a good rubber seal (I forgot the diameter :( ) and putting in that groove on top of red cylinder :) so far I can't really complain :)


Quick release for G29 you say? Has he confirmed this to you?
 
Just thought I'd share my settings on the g920. Iv found it very difficult to get into the game due to lack of weight to the wheel but these settings actual gave reasonable weight to the car

Gain 100%
Min force 0%
Dynamic damp 0%
Road effects 15%

Steer lock 900 degs
Steer lin 1.00
Brake gamma 1.00

Reason for 900 rotation is than in combination with the dynamic damping this gives more weight the further you turn the wheel so as to give more feel in the corners. I still don't have to turn the wheel more than 90 degrees in most instances and felt comfortable around Laguna

It feels decent for me so just thought I'd share.
 
Hi guys, @fbetes is a Spanish player that posted in a Spanish forum his G29 settings, he's quite happy with the FFB the game offer,so i let here his settings

Gain: 98%
Min Force:12%
Damping:50%
Road effects:20%

Rotation lock as car needs:
View attachment 937413

Mine are quite similar. I use a less gain and road effects though. I'm finding that I'm enjoying low steering lock for most of the cars. I have yet to try all the recommended steering locks though. I'm trying everybody's settings but have found mine to be most suitable and enjoyable for me. Obviously everyone has different tastes. I just wish I could get the ffb feel that the original AC had on ps4.
 
Not sure if this was mentioned earlier, yet I have a strong feeling the amount of gain (and possibly other settings) used will depend on the car, the car's setup, the load the car is under and the track.

For example, I've had more FFB spiking in the GTR than the Bentley (both 2018 versions). I drove them both at Spa, Barcelona, and Silverstone.
 
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Not sure if this was mentioned earlier, yet I have a strong feeling the amount of gain (and possibly other settings) used will depend on the car, the car's setup, the load the car is under and the track.

For example, I've had more FFB spiking in the GTR than the Bentley (both 2018 versions). I drove them both at Spa, Barcelona, and Silverstone.

Yeah you’re probably right. I think it’s all to do with the car bottoming out. At least that’s what I’ve found. High downforce corners which are sucking the car lower to the ground. So would even depend on setup too.
 
I'm doing a practice first before taking on Zolder in the career mode :) what are yours best laps ? :) I managed to get consistent 1:31 in the 911 GT3 R :)
 
Impressive. I could only do 32-33s at Zolder in the nsx. But I have major problems stopping the car with the G29 pedals and the force feedback is abysmal so I am very error prone. What wheel are you using?

Your left tire pressures are too high, you could probably go even faster. You want to be at 27.6 all around or thereabout.
 
Impressive. I could only do 32-33s at Zolder in the nsx. But I have major problems stopping the car with the G29 pedals and the force feedback is abysmal so I am very error prone. What wheel are you using?

Your left tire pressures are too high, you could probably go even faster. You want to be at 27.6 all around or thereabout.
Thanks I'll keep that in mind :) you've got all specs in the videos description pal :)
 
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