All things Tuning.

  • Thread starter CRC Wolf
  • 80 comments
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What's your take on tuning in Forza 6?

  • Better

    Votes: 9 40.9%
  • Worse

    Votes: 1 4.5%
  • Not Sure Yet

    Votes: 12 54.5%

  • Total voters
    22
What do you mean its no longer backwards?? You mean 53% FRONT??....In Forzatune 5 it always suggested 55-53% Front. And I still run that on FM6 and it seems to do well. As far as the Caster angles it always say 6.1, 6.2 or 6.3, which I found was not very good. Now I just leave it at the default 5.0

I use pedals so I run about 80 on my brake pressure, but I know guys with controllers running 130

Yeah, i mean 53% front. In order to apply the balance to the front of the car in FM5 you had to move the slider to the right which gave the impression you were moving the balance to the rear. They've fixed it for FM6 and now, just like it was in 2,3 and 4, you move the slider to the left to shift the balance to the front of the car.
 
Seems there are quite a few cars where you can change from stock transmission to street transmission, and lose a few PI with no negative effects.

Also probably a noob question but how do I go about tuning tyre pressures, I'm assuming my aim is to get a tyre which after a few laps is within the optimum temperature range, only what are the optimum ranges? Is it different for each type of tyre? Tyre pressures have always been something which I just left default but now I'm interested in changing them.

I had a play around with some cars and didn't notice much difference between 28 and 33 on the pressures (I'm talking how the car drives) so I'm just wondering what I'm best off doing.
 
Seems there are quite a few cars where you can change from stock transmission to street transmission, and lose a few PI with no negative effects.

Also probably a noob question but how do I go about tuning tyre pressures, I'm assuming my aim is to get a tyre which after a few laps is within the optimum temperature range, only what are the optimum ranges? Is it different for each type of tyre? Tyre pressures have always been something which I just left default but now I'm interested in changing them.

I had a play around with some cars and didn't notice much difference between 28 and 33 on the pressures (I'm talking how the car drives) so I'm just wondering what I'm best off doing.
From what I've read is that you'd want it to be at optimal temp when warmed up, I remember 28 pretty much almost being spot on to that optimal temp, but I just cant recall what that tempature was. I've always just set mine to 28 and been done with it :lol:
 
Seems there are quite a few cars where you can change from stock transmission to street transmission, and lose a few PI with no negative effects.

Also probably a noob question but how do I go about tuning tyre pressures, I'm assuming my aim is to get a tyre which after a few laps is within the optimum temperature range, only what are the optimum ranges? Is it different for each type of tyre? Tyre pressures have always been something which I just left default but now I'm interested in changing them.

I had a play around with some cars and didn't notice much difference between 28 and 33 on the pressures (I'm talking how the car drives) so I'm just wondering what I'm best off doing.

Leaving the pressures as 30/30 is fine. Anywhere between 30 - 35 degrees c when warm is what you're aiming for.
 
Did the second to last racing series in the career over the weekend. Decided to race the Touring cars, with a Volvo of course. (I mean, I had to, I'm from Sweden after all). Right off the bat I bought the diff and lowered the Acceleration setting, to reduce wheelspin out of corners. Lowered the brake pressure, easier to balance when you don't use ABS.

The thing was, it had incredible amounts of mid-corner oversteer. Just rolling through a corner, without any throttle or brakes applies, it would just slowly start to oversteer. The first race in the series was around Indianapolis, which proved to be a real pain. Cornering a twitchy Volvo at 150 mph is not easy, and it's certainly not fun.

Restarted the race to access the tuning, because I just couldn't stay out of the wall. And just like OP describes, any change I made to the car (softer rear spring rate, roll bars, damping and bumping, and lowered front downforce) just made it more twitchy. I was terribly confused.

After half an hour of trial and error I decided to just put the car back to the stock settings and try to run the race. It required extremely smooth steering inputs, and very careful use of the throttle. At the penultimate lap I got some oversteer, over corrected and hit the wall at a slight angle. This just ruined my brakes and the front aero, so I kept at it. To my great surprise, this crash solved all my problems! The car was now perfectly balanced, and could be thrown around the corners flat out. Despite losing top speed drastically I still cut a second from my best lap time.

Next race, I only adjusted the Aero. Minimum front downforce, maximum rear. It did the trick pretty well. In fast corners it under steered slightly, but it wasn't an issue. In slower corners the rear wing didn't produce enough downforce, leading to the same twitchy oversteer.


Conclusion: the only working setting is the Aero. Unfortunately, it doesn't work very well.
 
When it comes to RWD cars I feel like I have no clue what I'm doing, oversteer's coming out of turns no matter what I do
 
When it comes to RWD cars I feel like I have no clue what I'm doing, oversteer's coming out of turns no matter what I do

Buy an adjustable diff (doesn't affect the PI), lower the Accel setting. I'm usually running somewhere between 25-40. 25 makes the inside wheel spin up faster though, so it isn't optimal. If it's mid-corner oversteer, I'm yet to find a cure.
 
I had a Mustang set to 15% the other day as a test and it was very stable out of the corners even when spinning the tires but .... it hit the rev limiter coming out of corners due to smoking the inside rear tire and the exit speed was not as good as it was when the diff was set higher. I think I ended up using 35% on that one and just being careful on the throttle.

The ideal settings there depends on the car, amount of HP and tires used and also a lot rides on how the driver drives the car. If you are slamming the throttle down while turning then you are likely to get loose in a RWD car. If it is a high power car and you are not running TCS then most definitely is going to get loose.

One other thing that should work to some degree though I have not yet tested it in FM6 is to have the front dampers set just a bit softer than the rear ones. This will help with exit oversteer but may induce some entry oversteer so use with caution and make only small adjustments.
 
I run with no assists, and on my RWD cars when I brake or come off the accelerator quickly when I turn the rear end gets all loose on me. What can I do to solve this??? My deceleration is set on 10
 
I run with no assists, and on my RWD cars when I brake or come off the accelerator quickly when I turn the rear end gets all loose on me. What can I do to solve this??? My deceleration is set on 10
whats your brake bias?
 
I run with no assists, and on my RWD cars when I brake or come off the accelerator quickly when I turn the rear end gets all loose on me. What can I do to solve this??? My deceleration is set on 10

-More brake bias to the front.
-Increase the Deceleration setting on the differential.
-Stiffer front Bump damping to stop the car from changing weight by leaning forwards upon braking.

That's my advice for the setup. You can also change your driving style:
-Brake softer.
-Ease off the brake, instead of slamming on them and then hammering the throttle as you release the brakes.
-With a stronger Decel setting for your differential, you will need to do more braking in a straight line, and you will have less turn-in response.

You can try all of the above, but make only small adjustments. If you use 100% Decel diff you'll be understeering through corners. Too stiff bump damping will cause the car to be bouncy when the track in uneven. Last corner around Sebring can be a handful.

Good luck!
 
-More brake bias to the front.
-Increase the Deceleration setting on the differential.
-Stiffer front Bump damping to stop the car from changing weight by leaning forwards upon braking.

That's my advice for the setup. You can also change your driving style:
-Brake softer.
-Ease off the brake, instead of slamming on them and then hammering the throttle as you release the brakes.
-With a stronger Decel setting for your differential, you will need to do more braking in a straight line, and you will have less turn-in response.

You can try all of the above, but make only small adjustments. If you use 100% Decel diff you'll be understeering through corners. Too stiff bump damping will cause the car to be bouncy when the track in uneven. Last corner around Sebring can be a handful.

Good luck!
I've found that a lower decel setting with RWD vehicles is what causes understeer with lift off.
 
I was testing a bit more yesterday and the decel did seem to have a very noticeable effect on the lift off oversteer on the RWD I was running. I think it was set at 10 when I started and I had to be very careful going into corners to avoid loosing the tail. I bumped the decel to 50 and it was very stable, prehaps to the point of causing a little understeer.

So play around with the decel a bit. Bump it up in increments of 10 and run a few laps to see how it feels until you find the setting that best suits you.
 
-More brake bias to the front.
-Increase the Deceleration setting on the differential.
-Stiffer front Bump damping to stop the car from changing weight by leaning forwards upon braking.

That's my advice for the setup. You can also change your driving style:
-Brake softer.
-Ease off the brake, instead of slamming on them and then hammering the throttle as you release the brakes.
-With a stronger Decel setting for your differential, you will need to do more braking in a straight line, and you will have less turn-in response.

You can try all of the above, but make only small adjustments. If you use 100% Decel diff you'll be understeering through corners. Too stiff bump damping will cause the car to be bouncy when the track in uneven. Last corner around Sebring can be a handful.

Good luck!
I run all my cars with about 53% front brake bias. And maybe Ive been misunderstood on my problem, or Im misreading you. But this is whats going on= Im coming in fast and approaching a turn, I let off my gas and the rear end of the car will try to come around to the front. Im not getting understeer, if anything Im getting oversteer.

I've found that a lower decel setting with RWD vehicles is what causes understeer with lift off.
I run about 10 on deceleration and I have no understeering problems when lift off. The front of the car is gripping but the back is fish tailing when I lift off
 
@katpeeler, is that during, after or no breaking at all? Just turn in and the rear is coming out, or straight line breaking loose?
No braking, just lifting off accelerator and ass end wants to come around. It seems its more noticeable if I am trying to turn, but it does it a little in a straight line.
 
I run about 10 on deceleration and I have no understeering problems when lift off. The front of the car is gripping but the back is fish tailing when I lift off
I think he meant to say oversteer rather than understeer as lower decel values will cause lift off oversteer in FM6.

I have ran into a couple of cars that were set to 10 and got a good bit of lift off oversteer. raising that value to 25 or more seemed to be better. In the one case I moved it up to 50 and the lift off oversteer was gone completely maybe even developed a tiny bit of understeer.
 
I've found that a lower decel setting with RWD vehicles is what causes understeer with lift off.

Strange, because in all the racing games I've ever tuned in I've experienced the opposite.

-Increase the Deceleration setting on the differential.

This is still my top tip for your issues. Deceleration set to minimum will mean that your wheels can do whatever they want. They won't rotate with the same speeds, meaning that one tire will probably try to overtake the other. This will make the car unstable when you're not on the throttle.

If you set the deceleration to maximum, your wheels will always rotate at the exact speed. While this I gives great stability under braking, you will have issues in the corners.

Short example: you turn around a corner. The outer wheels have a radius of, let's say 20 metres. If your car is 2 metres wide, the inside wheels have a radius of 18 metres. The inside wheel will have a shorter distance to roll compared to the outer wheel if you want to turn, say a full 360 degree circle. If the diff is set to maximum setting, your wheels will not be able to to turn at different speeds, leading to one tire having to lose traction. (Usually inside wheel, due to the increased weight of the outer one, leading to more traction on the outside one) this will lead to a funky behaviour.

Conclusion: HIGH settings on the Deceleration leads to straight line stability, but too much will cause cornering issues. LOW deceleration settings leads to a loose rear-end under braking, but great cornering agility. As with all settings, you just have to find a balance you like.
 
After having driven a few more street cars I am seeing some lift off oversteer in most of them, even the ones that have a 50/50 weight balance and stock diff are doing it to some degree. Playing with the diff setting has helped on some cars but not on others. Thus far I can't say the street cars have been very realistic to drive, seemed much better on previous editions of Forza and other games/sims.

I also wonder why they have not fixed the ABS. They broke it in FM3 and it is still broke in 6. I guess whoever is coding that part doesn't know that the A in ABS means Anti-Lock

Edit Looks like part of my oversteer issue was wheel related. Still seeing some lift off oversteer in several cars but the real killer was driving those cars with my wheel config around tight corners. After some tweaking to the wheel settings it is more predictable and am having better success getting through those tight corners without the tail coming out.
 
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Say what you want about fm5 having no grip, but the 4th gen Camaro handling characteristics were identical to mine lol
 
No braking, just lifting off accelerator and ass end wants to come around. It seems its more noticeable if I am trying to turn, but it does it a little in a straight line.
What type of controller do you use? Pad? Wheel? if Wheel which one?

Aside from low Decel another thing that could possibly cause this type of problem is a combination of ride height, spring strength and damper settings. If ride height is low in the front, front springs are soft and front bump is soft then it is possible that the weight is transferred to the front enough to scrub a tire and that could cause the rear to get a bit crazy. The same would happen under braking if that were the case though.

Have you tried raising the decel value yet? If so did it help?
 
@HBR-Roadhog I'm using a Thrustmaster TX wheel. You mentioned in your post you messed with the wheel settings, what did you do. I have everything default except I'm running 900%.

Also raising my decal to about 25 is a sweet spot for me. I still have a little bit of lift off oversteer but I can handle it. Ill experiment with it more.

EDIT= forgot to mention that I use no assists
 
@katpeeler I have been using the 458 spider which is only 240% it has 4 sensitivity modes and I was running the min sensitivity [mode 4] which was causing a problem when turning into the tighter corners. Basically the amount of steering input was being scaled down during the first few degrees and then up in the next few so I could turn 20 degrees or so and it felt almost like a 900% wheel but then turn it 40 degrees and it feels like a 360 degree wheel, result was sudden and unexpected oversteer and counter steering was almost impossible when set to sim and no assists.

Have been playing around with mode 2 and 3 the last couple of days. so far 3 seems pretty good, 2 is a bit touchy but works, hopefully I can use 3 though as it gives more precise steering in the sweepers. 1 is way to touchy, almost like using a controller.
 
So are you saying that I should not answer a question that is asked of me because there is a thread somewhere for that?

Oh sorry I went and asked a question and there is a whole sub forum for that ;)
 
If you are set at 900 then I would say it is not wheel related. I do find that if you use the Simulation steering setting though that the cars become very hard and unrealistic to control when counter steering often snapping back the other way and loosing control.

Sounds like your initial issue was the Decel.
 
Increasing the deccel setting decreases lift-off oversteer? The in-game description says the opposite. :odd:
 

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