Dirt Rally 2.0 Wheel Settings

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I got T150. PS4. First try, default setting 1080°. Absolutely could not turn in this range. Almost destroyed my table.

Then I set saturation to 50%, which I now understand is 540°. I had fun, but stage times were too slow.

Finally I set 32% to get 350° and stage times I have much faster.

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Question - what is the right range for rally car, is 350° fast but not real? Or, I'm I just a bad driver and I need more practice when 540° results in much slower times than 350°? Or I do something just wrong, because default setting should be the right one?


I also don't understand soft lock problematic, because in menu is no explanation at all.Now I have it on, but I don't know what does it mean.
Soft lock is supposed to lock your wheel's rotation to the value of that specific car (some cars have 540, others 720, extra old even 1080).

If you are manually managing roation, you can set it to anything you like. Modern WRC cars have roation of 360 degrees, which enable you to quickly respond in corners, but might be hard to keep the car straight, if the stage has a lot of straight sections.
 
I got T150. PS4. First try, default setting 1080°. Absolutely could not turn in this range. Almost destroyed my table.

Then I set saturation to 50%, which I now understand is 540°. I had fun, but stage times were too slow.

Finally I set 32% to get 350° and stage times I have much faster.

----

Question - what is the right range for rally car, is 350° fast but not real? Or, I'm I just a bad driver and I need more practice when 540° results in much slower times than 350°? Or I do something just wrong, because default setting should be the right one?


I also don't understand soft lock problematic, because in menu is no explanation at all.Now I have it on, but I don't know what does it mean.

Historic cars have huge rotation angles compared to moderen rally cars. Best is to have sat = 100 and calibrate your wheel in the game to the fullest. The game will then take care of how your wheel behaves depending on what car you choose. The old DS means lots of turning :D
 
Here goes my FFB settings for dirt Rally 2.0.
I use a T150pro ...it was quite some time to achieve an hotspot, but now I'm pleased with the FFB that the game offers.

First at all I calibrated in-game the wheel up to 900 degrees.

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I need major help PS4 CSL Elite and when I start up the game I'm on Steering Sen on Auto. I can't calibrate it because I literally have instant wheel lock. Really getting angry at this.
I’m having the same issue. I used to be able to get full lock. But the other day I started the game up and now my ps4 csl elite is recognized at full lock when I turn it 45% from the center ether way. I went into the fanatec settings on pc and made sure my wheel was at 1080° rotation but nothing changed. The game is so fun when everything is working but now is it undrivable. If anyone knows what to do please help
 
@Sonic_X49 and @JGP_racing I had use SEN 720 on my CSL in wheel settings to stop that instant lock, hoping at some point the AUTO setting starts working but for now 720 gives me enough lock to stay straight and enough sensitivity to make it around most corners easily. Might try lower settings later like 540 or 360 to see how they work but at least I can play now.
 
With the release of Sweden I decided to have a play with the ffb trying to seek more road feel. Went down a rabbit hole on the reset and couldn't get the feel I was after. Don't like the heavy centre like WRC7 prefer more DR1 feel. Ended up basically where I started with a bit more self aligning torque to give a bit more centre weight. It's still light on centre, but in the corners it's the best I've found, for the G29 on PSPro. Interested to know what others are using or if they have tried this setup. Have fun in the snow.:cheers:
 

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Well, if you want more feel lower the 2 Friction Settings.

That setting that you said that you like has the Friction settings at 35 and 30.. All that does is dampen the feeling of detail on your wheel.

For me, leaving the 2 Friction settings to 0 gets me the most detail on the wheel.

With zero Frictions wheel is very light for me so I prefer Wheel friction around 35-45. Experimenting with Tire Friction and Suspension in process.

Btw, I don't have ffb from soft lock on G29 on PS4. At first I calibrated wheel for 900 degrees, then set saturation to 60, then enable soft lock and set 150 power of it. But when I turn wheel besides 270 degrees to 450 my wheel doesn't resist to it.
 
I'm a little confused with what you mean when referring to your FFB mate. From what I gather, you are not feeling any resistance from 270 - 450? Or, is it that you aren't feeling any resistance until 270? In any case, it sounds like you have your Soft Lock on and I don't believe you are supposed to.. However, reading some of these posts, things may have changed in this regard recently.
With zero Frictions wheel is very light for me
To me, this makes absolutely zero sense as those Friction Settings should do the opposite of what you are explaining. I will have to check and see what is going on now and see what has changed.
 
Btw, I don't have ffb from soft lock on G29 on PS4. At first I calibrated wheel for 900 degrees, then set saturation to 60, then enable soft lock and set 150 power of it. But when I turn wheel besides 270 degrees to 450 my wheel doesn't resist to it.

If you enable softlock and you have your G29 calibrated at 900 degrees then you should set saturation to 100%. The game will then determine what the rotations of you car's steering wheel will be.

Switch off the hands on the steering wheel because that limits the degrees to 540 degrees on all cars.

I don't think there is a lot difference in the force that is felt when entering soft lock . You can try to increase the value of Soft Lock.
The main thing with soft lock is that your wheel movement does not result any longer in movement of the steering wheel in the game.
 
Hey guys, just bought this game and I'm really enjoying it. But the wheel (G29 on PS4) just doesn't feel quite right. I don't know why, but the first game was feeling way better overall.
Can someone share his settings for the g29? It feels like it has a lot of dead-zone (even if it's on 0) and counter steering is very difficult.

Thank you.
 
Hey guys, just bought this game and I'm really enjoying it. But the wheel (G29 on PS4) just doesn't feel quite right. I don't know why, but the first game was feeling way better overall.
Can someone share his settings for the g29? It feels like it has a lot of dead-zone (even if it's on 0) and counter steering is very difficult.

Thank you.

Calibrate you wheel in the game to full 900 degrees. Use the X to cofirm!!!! (easily forgotten).

Saturation of steering to 100

That works brilliantly for me.
 
Calibrate you wheel in the game to full 900 degrees. Use the X to cofirm!!!! (easily forgotten).

Saturation of steering to 100

That works brilliantly for me.

I already calibrated the wheel. I'll try with the saturation (I have all default except linearity -3)
 
I tried all kind of settings for g29 and I can't get barely close do DR1. It is nearly undrivable.
I'm playing with dualshock right now and it's a shame.

Bad job codemasters
 
Heeelp.
I cant set up right settings anymore for g29 ps4
I don't know what im done wrong but must be something. Any idea
Thank you
 
Heeelp.
I cant set up right settings anymore for g29 ps4
I don't know what im done wrong but must be something. Any idea
Thank you
I'd suggest reset the settings, re calibrate and start from there. I have my settings up in the post above, since then I've backed off the self aligning torque to 70 and turned off steering centre force. It's a bit light on centre but it will still self align with the slide, gives me more detail to grip and weight shift without being overly heavy in corrections. I find when I turn any of them up it masks the subtle feedback. You can also feel the surface grip levels easily, this means it's light and loose on ice but heavy enough on dry tar. I'd suggest drive all the way down or up Monte with those settings and see how it feels. If you don't like it reset and try someone else's setup. I'm not saying it's perfect, but better for me. Good luck
 
I'd suggest reset the settings, re calibrate and start from there. I have my settings up in the post above, since then I've backed off the self aligning torque to 70 and turned off steering centre force. It's a bit light on centre but it will still self align with the slide, gives me more detail to grip and weight shift without being overly heavy in corrections. I find when I turn any of them up it masks the subtle feedback. You can also feel the surface grip levels easily, this means it's light and loose on ice but heavy enough on dry tar. I'd suggest drive all the way down or up Monte with those settings and see how it feels. If you don't like it reset and try someone else's setup. I'm not saying it's perfect, but better for me. Good luck
Thank you. I will try later. I think i solve something but still not good. Hope codemasters will solve problems with ffb.
 
I tried everything. I can't get anything close to dirt rally 1.

And it's even not possible to use the real transmission for the car. DR 1 allowed you to use paddle with sequential cars and clutch+H when possible. Now you have to choose one for all of the cars. Why codemasters, why.
 
That is what Codemasters said in reddit:

"Hey all, although my hands are a little tied in responding as openly as I'd like to, I'll do my best to tackle some of the above. /u/madpew has condensed the issues you're talking about somewhere a little lower down the thread, so I'll use that to structure my response:

"We're not fixing FFB as it's not broken for us"

We're definitely making changes in this area - but OP is right that we had to do a lot of investigative work and talk to a lot of people to ascertain what was 'missing'. Also, as we've alluded to elsewhere - not everyone has been affected/been discontent with the FFB out of the box, so we've had to discuss about how to implement it as well (and that's still something we're trying to define). Please bear in mind that we also have a wealth of data here about people's wheels, settings, etc - so it's all a big balancing act to please as many people as possible.

In terms of the process of how we refine and change FFB; it’s something that needed key individuals in the studio to be given the time to look at in detail, whilst also trying to balance this against giving them the time to fix other issues and work on upcoming features. There are also a lot less people available to take part in this process now the game's out, as the service team is smaller than the base game team. There are demands from all areas of the company, with numerous projects going on and F1 2019 launching two months earlier than ever before. In that respect, it's something that's ended up taking us a little longer to tackle, just by sheer number of people available - and that's something we're really sorry about. Throw into the mix that we want to get it validated by pro drivers, and you can see how the weeks have gotten away from us.

And finally, just on the point of FFB: with DiRT Rally 2.0 we very much focused on simulating the effects that come through the front wheels as purely as possible, and we (and external validators) were pleased with how authentic the simulation felt in that regard. However on previous games, rather than just science, we used a little more art in some of the effects (especially with regards to the chassis effects, environmental effects, etc) - and that's the area where we've seen the most feedback.

We didn't think we were launching it 'broken' and felt we had achieved and validated a realistic representation of steering feedback when driving a rally car. The sheer volume of [negative] feedback we've had definitely took us by surprise, and it's taken us a considerable amount of time to find something that a/ tackles the feedback we've had, and b/ is still an improvement on all previous iterations of DiRT games. We're getting there, and I look forward to sharing with you in the coming weeks when these changes/options will arrive. Our car handling team have done an absolutely stellar job when it comes to DiRT, and they've been valiant in going through the more nuanced feedback we've received about how it feels.

"We're not adding clubs because there aren't enough players in this game"

Clubs is in for testing now. It's very likely Clubs will arrive in June - which we know is late, and it's disappointing because the same thing happened with DiRT 4's Clubs coming quite late post-launch - but it's a huge undertaking to get right. We have also needed to refactor the backend RaceNet system and make significant changes to the web interface as a result. However, we're seeing some brilliant retention numbers despite the lateness of this feature, and we're confident it'll be more than ready to provide infrastructure for our competitive plans later this year (as well as all your plans).

Just while we're on competitive - the next update will include human-only MP rallycross. We've always been listening, and that comes later this month in Update 1.4.

"We only push out the DLC we promised because that makes us money while fixes don't"

The health, longevity and player sentiment is just as important to the commercial stuff as DLC is. There's no point releasing DLC if people aren't playing the game - if no-one's playing it, who's going to buy DLC? And conversely, who will let us make DLC if no-one's buying it? Plainly: everyone who's worked on DR2.0 loves it and wants to make more for it for as long as we're allowed!

But back to the main issue raised: the new environments are made by our amazing Environment Artists and Level Design team, and the vehicles are made by our Vehicle Artists. It's a predominantly different set of skillsets that tackle the bugs. However, player satisfaction and happiness is just critical to our commercial goals as DLC.

"We're working on VR instead"

"We're not working on VR because of other fixes"

We're working with an external development company to make this. There's a VR build in the studio right now - the lion's share of work is done, and we're onto looking at comfort features. More on that soon!"

Link:
 
I'd suggest reset the settings, re calibrate and start from there. I have my settings up in the post above, since then I've backed off the self aligning torque to 70 and turned off steering centre force. It's a bit light on centre but it will still self align with the slide, gives me more detail to grip and weight shift without being overly heavy in corrections. I find when I turn any of them up it masks the subtle feedback. You can also feel the surface grip levels easily, this means it's light and loose on ice but heavy enough on dry tar. I'd suggest drive all the way down or up Monte with those settings and see how it feels. If you don't like it reset and try someone else's setup. I'm not saying it's perfect, but better for me. Good luck
That work for me right now. Tnx
 
Not any more. I go poland daily with porsche and no go
.
Every vehicle, track and surface condition will feel different. Some will be lighter than others, especially on snow, mud or when accelerating straight, as it should be, until the front has weight and grip.
 
How do I have to adjust t300 settings in order for it to respond 1:1 to my actions in this game?, I mean one of the things I hate FFB wise in this game besides the odd lack of FX effects is this one too. It responds slower before getting to speed (you see it in the slider) specially from its either right or left lock.

It is everything default I haven't touched anything but just calibrated the wheel and applied the soft lock. What do I have to dial up. It's a t300 thing or only on my end
 
How do I have to adjust t300 settings in order for it to respond 1:1 to my actions in this game?, I mean one of the things I hate FFB wise in this game besides the odd lack of FX effects is this one too. It responds slower before getting to speed (you see it in the slider) specially from its either right or left lock.

It is everything default I haven't touched anything but just calibrated the wheel and applied the soft lock. What do I have to dial up. It's a t300 thing or only on my end

I lowered Linearity to -3, because at the middle of the wheel (G29) it was totally unsensitive
 

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