Drift Haus Tuning Garage

Yeah I can do, any 4wds in particular?

 

Umm im not really sure I love the EVO so really anything nice i suppose (: I just love your setups I can almost get rear wheel drive with your setups but just not yet ):

Edit: i mean AWD im pretty sure the EVO is AWD not 4WD i dont know the difference though i was just told that then;

 

AWD = All Wheel Drive (power goes from the engine to all 4 wheels)
Means basically the same thing, I'm sure their is a difference in terminology somewhere, probably something to do with whether it is permanent 4wd or selectable (some cars have 4wd but only send power to the front or rear wheels during normal use)

I will have a look which 4wd cars I have in my garage tomorrow and try to get something ready.

Give my Silvia S13/S14 or Skyline R31/R32 a go if you are looking for an easy to drive RWD car, they're all fairly beginner friendly.

 

Thanks heaps Ill build all 4 of them up (: me and my mate love the EVO we are trying to do a nice tendam full lap to upload its your setup; works amazing haha

 

Glad you enjoy them.
I enjoy drifting a 4wd car but there is a certain stigma attached to them and you will often get booted from lobbies by self proclaimed purists, its a shame but its just the way things go sometimes.
Its understandable sometimes because you run different lines dependent on your drivetrain and RWD cars won't be able to keep up with 4WD so it makes tandeming impossible and frustrating, sometimes people just hate on them though.

 

Ahh is that why in lobbies i drift at like 60 - 120kms and they are like 40 - 80 kms ?

 

Yeah sort of, 4WD drifting is more about inertia so is reliant on high entry speed to keep the car sideways, RWD is more about throttle control and weight transfer so you have more control while sideways.

 

Ahh thats why i find it so hard ):

 

This might help:-

Tips to improve your technique:

Driving line:- This can be a little tricky to adapt to, you need to stop thinking about the fastest way through a bend and start thinking about the longest and smoothest way through a bend. You are aiming for the same basic Out-In-Out but instead of following it with the front of the car, you are following it with the rear, the front wheels are just there to stop you going past 90 degrees.
The idea is to keep as much momentum as possible, you want to be going sideways but still progressing forwards. If you are going sideways then you are going to start slowing down, drifting was originally used as a braking technique so that passes could be made later in the corner rather than in the traditional braking zone. The more angle you have, the more you slow down, the less you have, the more momentum you keep.
You want to be turning in about a car length before where you would normally and much more aggressively in order to bring the rear around. Turn in hard, feel the rear step out, get on the throttle to encourage it and start counter steering to catch the slide. Use the throttle to balance the rear, smooth inputs to make sure you don't unbalance the car, if you lift off too suddenly the load will transfer onto the front wheels and you will pirouette around them.
Once sideways the major steering is done by the rear wheels, more throttle to get more rotation, less to straighten up. The job of the front wheels is just to follow the inside of the curve via counter steering.

Techniques:- There are 3 basic techniques to master that suit different situations but these are frequently mixed together simultaneously.

Handbrake- About as simple as it gets really, turn in to the corner hard, lift off the throttle and grab a fistful of handbrake to speed up rotation. The rear wheels will lock up and lose grip making them rotate around the front axle. Suited best to tight hairpins where you need to be facing the opposite direction quickly. In order to maintain the slide and momentum you will need to get on the throttle as soon as you let go of the handbrake.

Power Over: Again very simple, more akin to poor racing technique than drifting. Enter the corner as you would normally, slowing to the apex before picking your line and powering out. The idea is to wait until weight is transferred onto the rear wheels and then give it a big boot full of throttle and breaking traction.

Feint/Scandinavian Flick: A personal favourite of mine, I'd say I use it for 90% of drifting, a very effective way of changing forward momentum into sideways motion. Enter the corner about a car width from the outside edge, lift off the throttle and turn sharply away from the corner before turning back in and getting back on the gas. This basically shifts weight aggressively from side to side meaning that the break in traction happens quickly without losing too much forward momentum. This means that you can enter a corner already quite sideways without having to sacrifice speed which maximises efficiency and score.

 

Ahh sweet I think im slightly power over and the one under i dont use handbreak /: Thanks Ill try adjusting some of those suggestions and see how it goes cheers (:

 

I just cant seem to get RWD as smooth as I can get AWD.... ): its so much harder and smoke looks gay ):
If you could; could you upload some more of your AWD when you get time (:
Also how do you unlock paints ?

 

You unlock paints by buying cars in the colour you want or winning them in seasonal events, its a bit of a crappy way of doing it but that's the way things are.
RWD's are harder to master but they are better suited for the task, you've just got to keep practicing until it becomes second nature. It won't happen overnight but you will get there eventually, you've just got to find the flow.

Add me on PSN and i'll try and give you some coaching sometime

 

Sweet I think i added you last night but my net DCEd ill see if it worked today

 

I've not been on today but I'll confirm some time this weekend when I have time to play

 

Do you know if 4wd drift the same as awd ?

 

4WD and AWD are the same thing, but i think in the real world they have slight mechanical differences, in GT6 there really isnt a difference.

 

Just wanted to say thank you to this thread. I use DS3, Hard to find drift tunes for DS3. Thank you!!

 

@DolHaus Hey mate have you gotten around to any other 4WDs? AWDs?

 

Completely slipped my mind if I'm honest
I'll have a look tomorrow

 

Car Make/Model: Audi R6 Avant '08​

Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 658 BHP @ 6800 rpm / 73.0 kgfm @ 4300 rpm
Weight: 1503 kg
Performance Points: 565
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)​

Ride Height: Front: 120 Rear: 120
Spring Rate: Front: 11.96 kg Rear: 9.89 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 1 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension): Front: 5 Rear: 7
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 3 Rear: 4
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.00° Rear: 0.10°

Drivetrain: 6-speed Transmission ​

Differential Gear: Fully customisable ​

Initial Torque: F 5 R 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: F 60 R 60
Braking Sensitivity: F 5 R 5
Clutch & Flywheel: Twinplate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon
Torque Distributing Centre Differential: 10:90

Power​

Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Standard
Intake Tuning: Intake tuning
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body​

Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 0kg
Ballast position: 0

 

Toyota Supra RZ '97
​

Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 475 BHP @ 6100 rpm / 70.1 kgfm @ 4200 rpm
Weight: 1328 kg
Performance Points: 533pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
​

Ride Height: Front: 85 Rear: 85
Spring Rate: Front: 8.30 kg Rear: 6.30 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 3 Rear: 3
Dampers (Extension): Front: 4 Rear: 4
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 3 Rear: 3
Camber Angle (-): Front: 2.0° Rear: 1.0°
Toe Angle: Front: -0.14° Rear: 0.20°
Brakes: F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: 6 Speed​

Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
​

Initial Torque: F - R -10
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -29
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -10
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
​

Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Stage 1
Computer: Sports
Exhaust: Semi-Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Standard
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Intake Tuning: Yes
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body
​

Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 15 (optional)
Weight Reduction: Stage 1
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0

 

Thanks for getting this out so fast, I will try out in a few

 

hey mate just wondering if you could help me out with a m3 csl drift tune.

mines has all upgrades except nos.

thanks in advance bro

 

I'll have a go but I will probably remove some of the power parts as I don't think maxed out cars are the right way of doing things

 

thats nots a problen mate. any help is greatly appreciated

 

BMW M3 CSL '03
​

Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 430 BHP @ 8500 rpm / 43.3 kgfm @ 5500 rpm
Weight: 1385 kg
Performance Points: 518pp
Tires: CH

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)
​

Ride Height: Front: 80 Rear: 80
Spring Rate: Front: 5.24 kg Rear: 8.76 kg
Dampers (Compression): Front: 4 Rear: 4
Dampers (Extension): Front: 3 Rear: 5
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 3 Rear:4
Camber Angle (-): Front: 1.0° Rear: 0.4°
Toe Angle: Front: -0.04° Rear: 0.15°
Brakes: F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain: 6 Speed​

Differential Gear: Fully Customisable Differential
​

Initial Torque: F - R -6
Acceleration Sensitivity: F - R -40
Braking Sensitivity: F - R -12
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin Plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power
​

Oil Change: No
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Standard
Exhaust: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Isometric
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Intake Tuning: Yes
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body
​

Body Rigidity Improvement: No
Downforce: F: 0 R: 0
Weight Reduction: Standard
Bonnet: Standard
Windows: Standard
Ballast: 0 kg
Ballast position: 0

 

Lovely tune. I am just starting to learn drift and this tune works great on the M3 GTR version, just needs a bit more power cause of the longer gears.

 

Thanks

I find thats the problem with all the BMWs is that they just don't produce enough torque through the range, all the engines are quite peaky and it makes staying on the power band difficult.

All the tunes are just base tunes, drifting is too driver specific to build top spec tunes that everyone can use, I just get them so they're neutrally balanced and can easily be tweaked to suit different styles. More suited to the Japanese weight transfer based techniques rather than the western style which focusses on big power to keep the tyres lit. Feel free to make changes as you see fit, what works for me might not work for everyone.

 

Ahh so that's the issue, maybe a custom trans with super tight gears will help with that than keep the engine up in the power band, or over power the engine and PL it to make a larger band to work with.
Like I said I'm just learning at this point so i'm proly way off base on anything I say ya talk'n out my back side

Either way the tune as is worked great, I did knock the accel setting to 35 to stabilize it in the slide under power so it didn't want to just turn over on me

 

I personally find that torque is much easier to work with than high horsepower, ideally I'm looking for a broad torque band so I have smooth power delivery throughout the rev range. With high horsepower cars the power delivery is much sharper and makes the car much more tricky to keep on the limit, even more so if you're not experienced.

Short gearing will cause problems as you want to be using as much of the rev range to control the speed the rear wheels are spinning rather than keeping the car within a specific range. You can't really change gears while the tires are lit as it will unbalance the car and so you will find yourself bouncing off the limiter constantly and not accelerating out of the corners.
Generally I don't bother with a custom trans as the fixed ratio boxes are usually more than adequate for the task, I can't really think of any circumstance where I'd genuinely notice the difference a full custom setup could make. You might be able to wrangle a few extra points in a seasonal event by getting the wheels to spin slightly faster but it won't make a noticeable difference for the most part. The only circumstance I'd change it was if I was consistently topping out or bogging down on a long corner, then it would just be a click either way on the max speed.

To stop over rotation try adding a little bit more Toe in on the rear, just take it up 2 clicks at a time until you feel comfortable.

Experiment with the Diff, there are no fixed rules as to how you should do it, a lot of people default to the 5/60/5 or 60/60/60 as these represent locked diffs. 5/60/5 will give you full lock under acceleration but will allow sharp adjustments when you lift which can help to keep the car sliding, 60/60/60 is a welded diff and gives unrivalled consistency at the rear wheels but needs precise throttle control. I like to run a slightly more open diff that will lock when asked but give you more grip when you need it and better exit speed.

All comes down to personal taste and what suits the car, the Initial and Accel are all you need to concentrate on. Keep the Initial quite low and the Accel quite high, you can make big adjustments and feel the results easil so it doesn't take long to get setup, makes it easier to understand what the different settings affect as well so will help you with general tuning.