Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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not working on a M1 mac unfortunately but thanks anyway
You can use this on an M1. Don't know how easy it is to set up though.

 
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Download the driver, install it, restart the PC, open Firmware Manager and click Update, very easy.

All while having the base connected right?

I must clarify, that I’m a console player. The only reason I purchased a PC laptop was to be able to update firmware

Is there any additional steps?
 
All while having the base connected right?

I must clarify, that I’m a console player. The only reason I purchased a PC laptop was to be able to update firmware

Is there any additional steps?
Install the Fanatec software then open it. Plug in your wheelbase and it’ll pop up on the Fanatec software saying update available and follow the steps. Very easy tbh. If you have a load cell you have to connect that separately but it probably won’t have an update available as mine had never needed one
 
You can use this on an M1. Don't know how easy it is to set up though.

I have to say,it looks like a bigger hassle than finding someone with a pc though :dopey: Or maybe i‘ll bite the bullet and buy a cheap subnotebook only for this purpose.I did sink so much money already in my new passion,“few“ bucks more or less….who cares :banghead:
 
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That’s how I ended up with a new PC yesterday. Always been a Mac guy…. Still am

Running one of those programs looked more of a hassle than I was willing to go through 😑
 
Fanatec Driver 439 is still the latest firmware version on the Fanatec website. 440 is a beta driver as indicated in Abarth_71's link.

440 is a fully stable official driver and not Beta. It's however only the release driver for the BMW M4 GT3 wheel, therefore was not posted on the official driver download page but only on the BMW M4 GT3 webshop page.
 
@Jordan and @PirovacBoy
We seem to have the same preferences, transparency first and foremost. That means NDP and NFR Off, and then increasing INT or lowering FEI until the sensations don't feel too harsh/robotic/buzzy anymore. Fanatec tuning menu isn't more complicated than that really, if transparency is the goal.
However, to avoid injuries for beginners or if letting a friend try it, NDP and NFR is useful.

To me, this is similar to setting up audio equipment. I want to hear what the producers wanted me to hear, even if I don't "like" it, initially at least. While most people seem to like equalizers and speakers/headphones/electronics that put their own color over everything.

Correct me if I'm wrong. You two are among the few whose opinions I value - much more than any Youtuber trying to stick out from the crowd with magic and sensationalism.

I look forward to your future comments!

And in any case, once again, I find the new FFB (GT7 1.15) vastly improved, more so than when going from G29 to DD. They just need to put the "volume" back to 100% and I couldn't be happier.
Yeah, you did a good job summarizing my goals of tuning the wheel and my conclusions.

And I agree with you about YouTube, as well. I do enjoy making video, but I'm still a bit embarrassed to put out content alongside all the clickbait clowns... but I digress. :lol:
@Abarth_71 and @Yard_Sale
Please try the following Settings and report back.
I just tweaked them today and to me they just feel incredibly Strong and detailed.
These are the ones my Statements are based on.

8NM Boost Kit

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 10

NFR: 10

NIN: 10

INT: 3

FEI: 100

FOR: 120

SPR: 0

DPR: 0


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 10

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

If you don’t experience extreme Forces and highly detailed FFB than something is definitely very wrong.
Nice update, @PirovacBoy, these are definitely my preferred settings now.
I think, although I can’t comprehend how or why, but there MUST be something wrong with some DDPRO Wheelbases.
Just today I tweaked some Settings and in Blue PS5 Mode with the 8NM Power Supply all I can say is that the FFB is so strong and Violent that it’s beyond me that so many here are experiencing the complete opposite.

I have no idea how that is possible.
All I can say is that to me personally PD did a great Job with the updated FFB in GT7.
In Game Torque 10 and 100% in the Wheelbase is the absolute Limit before it starts to Clip.
The Amount of Detail and Power in the FFB is overwhelming the Chassis Dynamics are replicated in such an intuitive and informative way and especially Tire Grip and Slip Angle are simulated much more detailed and progressive.
The Road Effects and Bumps are very detailed too and even Self Aligning Torque is possible to replicate.
How is that possible that so many here are experiencing such an opposite Feeling.
This shouldn’t be the Case…this is so strange.
I don’t get it 🤷🏻‍♂️
I still wouldn't put GT7 on par with ACC or iRacing's FFB, but the current state of things with your settings is probably the best it's been. The DD Pro's advanced tuning menu can be a little intimidating and that kind of control is not available on other wheels, so maybe that's why so many people haven't "seen the light" yet. Using my old settings or auto settings, the wheel does indeed feel completely limp.

Here's a theory: if PD literally just turned down the FFB signal — and that's exactly what they said they did — did they inadvertently give us access to a wider dynamic range to play around with? Was much of the pre-1.15 "numbness" really just the game clipping its own signal?

I highly doubt the game is sending any "more" or "different" FFB data; perhaps it's just sending it out at a much lower "volume". Now, using the wheel's advanced settings, maybe we are simply amplifying that more nuanced signal. I'm certainly getting a lot more detail when cornering now that I just don't recall being there before.

If/when/how PD "fixes" this moving forward, we might be better off going with low in-game Max Torque, then adding the strength back in through the wheel's own settings. It will be interesting to see what happens.
440 is the driver number.
Base firmware number is 1.1.6.4
Motor firmware number is 1.0.2.2
These numbers are displayed on the screen when you start the base.
I was running 439 version of the driver software and my base DDP firmware was 1.1.5.3. In the driver software, both were reported as the latest with no new versions available, and Fanatec's driver page also links to 439. But your post and the forum link clearly show 440 as the latest version, and I could download it and install 1.1.6.4 on my wheel base.

For the record, the wheel felt the same in GT7 with both firmware versions.
You can use this on an M1. Don't know how easy it is to set up though.

I have to say,it looks like a bigger hassle than finding someone with a pc though :dopey: Or maybe i‘ll bite the bullet and buy a cheap subnotebook only for this purpose.I did sink so much money already in my new passion,“few“ bucks more or less….who cares :banghead:
As a fellow M1 Mac user, I would urge extreme caution doing this, if you can even do it at all.

Parallels can only run Windows 11 ARM version, and although Windows 11 ARM is technically backwards-compatible with 64-bit Windows applications, drivers must be specifically compiled for ARM CPUs to communicate with peripherals and I doubt Fanatec has done that.

Installing firmware or drivers through a virtualized environment is tricky enough (I would not recommend it, period), then adding the ARM component makes it even more precarious, if not impossible. Regardless, it's definitely not worth bricking your DD Pro. :)
 
Here's a theory: if PD literally just turned down the FFB signal — and that's exactly what they said they did — did they inadvertently give us access to a wider dynamic range to play around with? Was much of the pre-1.15 "numbness" really just the game clipping its own signal?

I highly doubt the game is sending any "more" or "different" FFB data; perhaps it's just sending it out at a much lower "volume". Now, using the wheel's advanced settings, maybe we are simply amplifying that more nuanced signal. I'm certainly getting a lot more detail when cornering now that I just don't recall being there before.

If/when/how PD "fixes" this moving forward, we might be better off going with low in-game Max Torque, then adding the strength back in through the wheel's own settings. It will be interesting to see what happens.

From the first moment I tried faster cars in GT7, I felt a very clear case of clipping. FFB went numb and only an equally strong spring effect towards middle remained. Of course I tried to use max torque 1 in-game and FFB sensitivity 1 - no difference at all compared to 5/10 and lowered FF in Fanatec's tuning menu.
I just assumed it was a part of their FFB language and tried to adapt. It was fine and I was competitive, but now I'm clearly faster (DR going up) and it's a lot more fun. I can make corrections during corners that I couldn't before since I had no sensation of what was going on more than that I was at a somewhat optimal tyre slip.

So, I really hope you're wrong. I hope that max torque 1 in-game isn't clipping when they turn back the strength.

I'm hovering around A/A+ in EMEA so no slouch but no champion either.
 
Here's a theory: if PD literally just turned down the FFB signal — and that's exactly what they said they did — did they inadvertently give us access to a wider dynamic range to play around with? Was much of the pre-1.15 "numbness" really just the game clipping its own signal?

I highly doubt the game is sending any "more" or "different" FFB data; perhaps it's just sending it out at a much lower "volume". Now, using the wheel's advanced settings, maybe we are simply amplifying that more nuanced signal. I'm certainly getting a lot more detail when cornering now that I just don't recall being there before.

If/when/how PD "fixes" this moving forward, we might be better off going with low in-game Max Torque, then adding the strength back in through the wheel's own settings. It will be interesting to see what happens.
:)


From the first moment I tried faster cars in GT7, I felt a very clear case of clipping. FFB went numb and only an equally strong spring effect towards middle remained. Of course I tried to use max torque 1 in-game and FFB sensitivity 1 - no difference at all compared to 5/10 and lowered FF in Fanatec's tuning menu.
I just assumed it was a part of their FFB language and tried to adapt. It was fine and I was competitive, but now I'm clearly faster (DR going up) and it's a lot more fun. I can make corrections during corners that I couldn't before since I had no sensation of what was going on more than that I was at a somewhat optimal tyre slip.

So, I really hope you're wrong. I hope that max torque 1 in-game isn't clipping when they turn back the strength.

I'm hovering around A/A+ in EMEA so no slouch but no champion either.




I think you're right. There's no way the game can send you more/less/different data. But at a lower volume, sure... that makes sense. What's impressed me most about this wheelbase, was how much force it was capable of via the Tomahawk grind. I read in this thread or another that Fanatec has a new driver in the works that is supposed to be the Binford 5000 of all drivers. I hope so, and I hope you're right about the dynamic range. I'm one of those guys that wants to fight the car around the track. Hopefully I can accomplish that with a DD pro and I don't have to get a DD1
 
I think you're right. There's no way the game can send you more/less/different data. But at a lower volume, sure... that makes sense. What's impressed me most about this wheelbase, was how much force it was capable of via the Tomahawk grind. I read in this thread or another that Fanatec has a new driver in the works that is supposed to be the Binford 5000 of all drivers. I hope so, and I hope you're right about the dynamic range. I'm one of those guys that wants to fight the car around the track. Hopefully I can accomplish that with a DD pro and I don't have to get a DD1
I read on the Fanatec Reddit that this miracle driver is primarily going to benefit the podium wheelbases. All speculation at this point though.
 
@Abarth_71 and @Yard_Sale
Please try the following Settings and report back.
I just tweaked them today and to me they just feel incredibly Strong and detailed.
These are the ones my Statements are based on.

8NM Boost Kit

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 10

NFR: 10

NIN: 10

INT: 3

FEI: 100

FOR: 120

SPR: 0

DPR: 0


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 10

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

If you don’t experience extreme Forces and highly detailed FFB than something is definitely very wrong.

This works nicely, cheers mate.
 
I read on the Fanatec Reddit that this miracle driver is primarily going to benefit the podium wheelbases. All speculation at this point though.
Are we talking“drivers“ or „firmware“?Cause,drivers wouldn‘t help solving the current issue for obvious reasons (hint: Ps5)
 
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Are we talking“drivers“ or „firmware“?Cause,drivers wouldn‘t help solving the current issue for obvious reasons (hint: Ps5)

A "driver package " contains firmware versions for all the products. A newer firmware version can change drastically any characteristic of the product or even add something more ( compatibility, setting adjustment etc). What ever changes might come are "in" the product itself and even if you plug it in a console you can use/adjust/have it.
 
This is the discussion thread for an article on GTPlanet:

Gran Turismo 7’s Latest Update Nerfed the Fanatec GT DD Pro: Here’s How to Fix It

The latest Gran Turismo 7 update 1.15 is proving to be one of the game’s most controversial yet. Although it brought new cars, events, and features, the update also nerfed the force feedback strength of the game’s officially licensed wheels from Fanatec and Thrustmaster...
 
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No, this will not going to help, still no resistance in the wheel and there will be no settings until the PD bring back old settings back to the game FFS.
Just turn to compatibility mode (purple)
 
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What the article don‘t mention:it‘s for 8nm Wheelbase.On 5nm way too light.I did increase the settings a lot but i‘m still missing weight feel/resistance
 
What the article don‘t mention:it‘s for 8nm Wheelbase.On 5nm way too light.I did increase the settings a lot but i‘m still missing weight feel/resistance
It's the same on the 8Nm mate, same **** until the PD bring back to old settings before this update. There is no help except purple mode, without force in wheel there is no settings that can change this
 
It's the same on the 8Nm mate, same **** until the PD bring back to old settings before this update. There is no help except purple mode, without force in wheel there is no settings that can change this
I built my own "boost kit" for $25, took less than 5 mins to make
 
It's the same on the 8Nm mate, same **** until the PD bring back to old settings before this update. There is no help except purple mode, without force in wheel there is no settings that can change this
Out of curiosity, what Settings were you running before the Update.
Both in Game and in your Wheelbase.
Are you using the 8NM Power Supply?!
Have you even tried the Settings which are mentioned in the Article?!
If you don’t experience a strong and very fine detailed FFB, then you most probably have been running and got used to way to high FFB Signal which was clipping all over the place.
The Mentioned Settings are very strong and highly detailed and should definitely not feel weak.
I‘m very surprised about your Statement.
@fmq75 what were your Settings you were running before the Update?
 
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This is the discussion thread for an article on GTPlanet:

Gran Turismo 7’s Latest Update Nerfed the Fanatec GT DD Pro: Here’s How to Fix It

The latest Gran Turismo 7 update 1.15 is proving to be one of the game’s most controversial yet. Although it brought new cars, events, and features, the update also nerfed the force feedback strength of the game’s officially licensed wheels from Fanatec and Thrustmaster...
Be sure to also duplicate your current settings so you can go back to how you liked it before the update. Assuming of course they fix the issue and bring the FFB back to how it was before.


Jerome
 
I agree with Jordan and PirovacBoy. The FFB, while not as strong, is better. You feel more of what is going on. For one, you now feel the rumble strips at high and mid speed corners. You didn't pre 1.15 IMO opinion. The wheel also no longer oscillates on high-speed turns when trying to push the steering. I'm using the below settings. These were posted on the Fanatec Recommended Settings Forum by a member that has done a lot of trial and error. I happen to think they're quite good! I will be trying PirovacBoy's settings, later tonight. Very curious how they compare and differ. :D:)

SEN Auto
FF 100
FFS PEAK
NDP 50
NFR 25
NIN off
INT 3
FEI 90
FOR 120
SPR off
DPR off
BLI User Pref
SHO User Pref
BRF User Pref

IN GAME
FF Max Torque 10
FF Sensitivity 1
 
Out of curiosity, what Settings were you running before the Update.
Both in Game and in your Wheelbase.
Are you using the 8NM Power Supply?!
Have you even tried the Settings which are mentioned in the Article?!
If you don’t experience a strong and very fine detailed FFB, then you most probably have been running and got used to way to high FFB Signal which was clipping all over the place.
The Mentioned Settings are very strong and highly detailed and should definitely not feel weak.
I‘m very surprised about your Statement.
@fmq75 what were your Settings you were running before the Update?
Most of the time on the recommended Fanatec settings from their forum GT page, but I've try Mourice's and few other guys from that topic (before and after this update. I also tried few settings from guys that make GT streams, but I found myself in fanatecs recommended settings from page 1 https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings/p1

My in-game settings was 5/1 or 6/1 (I have 8Nm version of DD Pro and F1 Esports wheel)

I can accept that this settings is not perfect but I like them. Before updaye I can use some other settings, but this one I like the most. But that is not the point. Point is, no metter which settings I use, I don't have enough resistance in wheel and no metter which settings I use now and put FOR to 120 and in-game torque to 10 there is still no resistance in my wheel like it was before.
And PD admit that they reduced it and until they fix that, there is no settings you can put in your wheel and in-game to get close to feeling that we have before
 
What the article don‘t mention:it‘s for 8nm Wheelbase.On 5nm way too light.
It's not mentioned because both power supplies benefit from these settings (I tested both). Obviously the 8nm will give you more.
 
Those ‘fixed’ settings definitely don’t fix it. They are a workaround at best. I am using them but The weight feels very springy and boaty as running everything at maximum is clearly just a bodge for now. Only PD can really fix it.
 
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@Abarth_71 and @Yard_Sale
Please try the following Settings and report back.
I just tweaked them today and to me they just feel incredibly Strong and detailed.
These are the ones my Statements are based on.

8NM Boost Kit

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 10

NFR: 10

NIN: 10

INT: 3

FEI: 100

FOR: 120

SPR: 0

DPR: 0


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 10

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

If you don’t experience extreme Forces and highly detailed FFB than something is definitely very wrong.
After using these settings and in game torque to 10 its plenty heavy enough again and I'm feeling curbs. Agree that there's more tyre feel too now as well. The change is growing on me rapidly. Enjoyed that session, thanks.🍻
 
Well, if nothing else this article has showed me how to change the wheel settings on the wheels itself lol, better than keep plugging in my laptop! I looked on the Fanatec website and took those mentioned. PD this really is a little step too far nerfing our peripheral
 
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