General Model Kit Building Thread

[Cano]

IMO, it boils down mostly to what scale you're commiting to, and how detailed you want your builds to be.
Smaller scales are somewhat easier to build, and usually don't need to have much detail added other to what's already in the box, bigger scales will need to have A TON of detail to look just right... at least if you have OCD like me when it comes to this stuff.

That is precisely why I'm affraid. As you may know, I restore and customize 1:64 diecast cars -follow my sig- and I always try to make them as detailed as possible and such. With a bigger scale that offers so many possibilities, I'm truly scared of how it will be I feel like I'll never be satisfied.

Err, I've no issues like that.

My wife would kill me.

And also this:

It's been almost 2 years since I started working on my 1/24 DBS build, and I still haven't finished a tenth of it.

My Hasegawa build has been in progress since 2009.

I started my Corvette in 2000 and only managed to get all the parts off the sprue successfully.

Is something that will happen, no ifs. I've had 1:64 projects dismantled for 4 years and counting.

 

[photonrider]

Is it only 1:24's in here?

Well, that's unfortunate, then, you guys are not going to be able to play with this:

 

[Ezzz]

I see a lot of great work done here.
Here is a few of 1:24 scale kits i have built over last 2 years or so.
Sorry for not so great quality, most of them was taken with a phone.
More on facebook - RC Bodyshop

Nice work, I see that we are into the cars from the same era!

I am fully aware of all of that. I am also fully aware that I don't need more time consuming projects. I also fully know I barely have space for 1:64 cars, let alone plastic fantastic.

Yet, stronger than everrrrrrr :/

Just do it

I will take a picture of my model queue later this weekend.. but in the meanwhile, a newly finished project:

Voltex custom Nissan Fairlady 350Z -

Full post here: http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/07/124-voltex-nissan-fairlady-350z.html

Enjoy!

 

[AerodyManiac]

What is the procedure you guys take when assembling the bodywork of a model car? I've been browsing Britmodeller, and I noticed that some of them apply lacquer/gloss coats to the bodywork. Do they function like modelling wax, and is it not necessary to apply them once you decided to go with modelling wax instead?
Also, how do you wet-sand a model? And what is the purpose of putty?

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

I apply a non gloss lacquer clear coat after applying the decals. Use a good brand like Tamiya so that it doesn't yellow. It helps seal the decals and gives it a nice smooth finish.

Wet sand is to smooth out any roughness in the paint/clear and should be done with a high grit sandpaper and water. I sometimes just have the tap trickle while I sand in the sink.

Putty is like filler for a body, usually used for kit bashing a model or filling gaps/pits.

 

[AerodyManiac]

I apply a non gloss lacquer clear coat after applying the decals. Use a good brand like Tamiya so that it doesn't yellow. It helps seal the decals and gives it a nice smooth finish.

Do you use Tamiya's modelling wax before you apply the decals and the lacquer clear coat?
Thanks for the reply by the way.

Edit: Are there any 'expiry dates' for Tamiya's modelling wax or paint cans? I'm asking this because I have bought the modelling wax and some paint cans for quite some time, but I have never used them.

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

Never use the modelling wax TBH but I would assume the clear goes on first.

No expiry dates that I know of, I had some last me 8 years though, depends on how it's stored and what's in it.

 

[Ezzz]

I also spray a layer of gloss after decals. Aside from yellowing it protects from dryness and cracks to decals. Even on plain road cars with no decals, the gloss helps make your car looks shiny. I personally have not used model wax.

One thing I want to mention though, the challenge for me with spray gloss similar to other colors are dust and lints. The gloss will make the lint really obvious and stuck to the car, so you may want to make sure to spray in a relatively dust and lint-free area.

Do you use Tamiya's modelling wax before you apply the decals and the lacquer clear coat?
Thanks for the reply by the way.

Edit: Are there any 'expiry dates' for Tamiya's modelling wax or paint cans? I'm asking this because I have bought the modelling wax and some paint cans for quite some time, but I have never used them.

HP Nut, you seems to be from Hong Kong. I was from Hong Kong too, and I know there are plenty of stores in Mong Kok that sells the materials and give you guidance as well. You can ask some of the store owners for tips when you buy the material.

New project, Powerhouse Amuse 370Z! Too bad they didn't make a kit for the Amuse 350Z Superleggera like the one in GT6...

Full post here: http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/07/124-amuse-nissan-fairlady-370z.html

Enjoy!

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

I also spray a layer of gloss after decals. Aside from yellowing it protects from dryness and cracks to decals. Even on plain road cars with no decals, the gloss helps make your car looks shiny. I personally have not used model wax.

One thing I want to mention though, the challenge for me with spray gloss similar to other colors are dust and lints. The gloss will make the lint really obvious and stuck to the car, so you may want to make sure to spray in a relatively dust and lint-free area.

The problem with using a gloss clear is that it makes the ENTIRE car glossy. I use a non gloss clear so my trim and window stripping doesnt look like it's part of the paint.

 

[AOS-]

^ I had that issue with one my previous projects. I resolved that issue by laying down the gloss first, then painting in the non-glossy parts.

Of course you can brush in flat clear over that for surface-layer protection.

 

[Ezzz]

^ I had an issue with one my previous projects. I resolved that issue by laying down the gloss first, then paint in the non-glossy parts.

Of course you can brush in flat clear over that for surface-layer protection.

That's actually exactly what I do, I always spray the car body first and attach the windows/headlights after all the paints and decals are done.

Once you get the hang of the process, you don't really necessarily need to follow the steps in the instructions and can make improvements upon it.

 

[AerodyManiac]

Thanks for the replies everybody. 👍
What about @Apok? If I remember correctly, you use modelling wax on your models, right? In what order do you apply the following to your models: decals, modelling wax and clear coat? Or do you not apply clear coat at all?
Also, a word of advice to beginners: don't try to undo what you have painted using solvents normally used to wash paintbrushes. I just tried it today, as I'm not satisfied with what I have originally painted. Although the product isn't absolutely terrible, it surely doesn't look as good as what I've originally done, as the solvent left tiny chunks of paint which cannot be removed on the part. So yeah, it's going to be the only part that I'm not satisfied with now.

 

[Apok]

Thanks for the replies everybody. 👍
What about @Apok? If I remember correctly, you use modelling wax on your models, right? In what order do you apply the following to your models: decals, modelling wax and clear coat? Or do you not apply clear coat at all?
Also, a word of advice to beginners: don't try to undo what you have painted using solvents normally used to wash paintbrushes. I just tried it today, as I'm not satisfied with what I have originally painted. Although the product isn't absolutely terrible, it surely doesn't look as good as what I've originally done, as the solvent left tiny chunks of paint which cannot be removed on the part. So yeah, it's going to be the only part that I'm not satisfied with now.

I apply clear coat. Usually after painting I'll apply clear coat, decals over that and then another layer of clear coat. When I'm more or less satisfied with it I then use micro-mesh (basically a very fine sand paper) to even out the surface and. Finally I apply some polishing compound (to finish off what I already did with the micro-mesh) and in the very end use modelling wax. I've not heard of anyone applying wax before clear coating as its purpose is to fill in microscopic gaps that aren't visible to the naked eye (left by the polishing compound).

Any sort of matte surfaces are done after all of this, though I do sometimes have issues with the paint not sticking to the clear coat. Sanding the surface a bit helps, but is sometimes hard to do with small details without damaging the glossy paint.

Or at least that's what I like to believe I do. In the end I try and cut corners and it all goes wrong.

 

[AerodyManiac]

But won't you accidentally tear the decals apart if you apply them before polishing it with modelling wax? And will the decals not stick to the surface if a layer of clear coat is applied to it beforehand?

By the way, which clear coat do you guys use? Is it this or this?

 

[Apok]

But won't you accidentally tear the decals apart if you apply them before polishing it with modelling wax?

No, they're not that brittle, since when you remove a decal from its backing paper it's wet and it sort of acts as a lubricant. If you then dry the decal and surrounding area with cloth it'll be very hard to move it again.

And will the decals not stick to the surface if a layer of clear coat is applied to it beforehand?

I'm not exactly sure what you mean here. Did you mean to ask if the decals will not stick if a layer of clear coat is not applied to it?
They will. You could apply decals straight to the paint and use clear coat after that, but keep in mind that you should only ever apply decals to a glossy surface. If you apply it to a matt surface the clear parts of a decal will become cloudy due to air pockets being trapped between the uneven matt surface and the decal.

By the way, which clear coat do you guys use? Is it this or this?

I use the first one. Second requires an airbrush which I do have, but can't be bothered to use unless necessary.

 

[Cano]

an airbrush which I do have, but can't be bothered to use unless necessary.

I was talking the other day with a guy that puts together 1:24 cars -and also does 1:64 customs- about exactly this. The guy has won Best Paint at basically every national event he enters something, yet he paints with spray cans. I was telling him that I wanted an airbrush and he told me exactly this. "You'll be too lazy to use it because it's frankly a pain in the ass. The assembly, the mixing, the cleaning. To hell, just learn to really paint with cans".

And I think he's right. With the exception of maybe a very particular custom hue or something like that, I can't see myself going trough the hassle of setting up and then de-setting up an airbrush. So I've embraced his train of thought and am trying to learn to paint well with cans, be it cheap Wal Mart stuff or expensive modelling paint. So far, my only concern is that I can't get a good enough shine to satisfy the wacko in me, but I'm getting there.

 

[Smurfybug]

 

[silverromeo]

New build on a car based on nemesis/competitor game - Forza Motorsports, but I think as car enthusiasts you guys will enjoy it.

Behold the Lexus SC F V10!

Full post and pictures can be found here:

http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/09/forza-concept-124-lexus-sc-f-v10.html

Hope you guys will enjoy the creation!

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

Cool idea, and it looks good, but would be such a waste in real life

 

[silverromeo]

Cool idea, and it looks good, but would be such a waste in real life

I would actually argue that the Soarer/SC is actually a very good platform, just look at the D1GP Vertex Soarer drift cars that they are still using, and you know how good and bulletproof these 90's Japanese cars are. So if this is real life it all depends how much money and how good the tuner is. Of course, if I have the monetary resource, I would definitely be sure to make it right

 

[silverromeo]

New build(s), a Gran Turismo and Japanese classic - NSX Type R NA1 & NA2.

Full post and pictures can be found here:
http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/09/124-honda-nsx-type-r-berlina-black-na1.html

Enjoy!

 

[silverromeo]

Time for a new(old) build. It is the infamous Mine's R34 Skyline GTR cross Nismo body plus a R33 concept. This is the year 2006 model that is featured in GT5/GT6. Hope you guys will enjoy!

Full post and pictures can be found here:

http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/10/throwback-thursday-124-mines-nismo-r33.html

Cheers!

 

[silverromeo]

Hi guys I have finished another project, this pair is the arch-nemesis of the Mine's pair above - The Matchless Crowd Racing(MCR) R33 and R34 pair. For those of you who are Skyline GTR and Best Motoring fans, this pair should be very familiar to you :-)

Full post and pictures can be found here:

http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/10/124-mcr-nissan-skyline-gtr-r33-r34.html

Enjoy!

 

[Cano]

Ah, dude. Matchless Crowd Racig ruled.

 

[Heldenzeit]

Just picked this up. Hopefully start it soon.

 

[Cano]

Awesome choice, @Heldenzeit

As for me... well people, you remember how some months ago I was like "damn I'm affraid of these things" and stuff? Well, my will was finally broken. I found a deal on a couple of kits that I simply could not pass up, and with these I am officially in the 1:24 model kit money pit.

One of these:

And one of these:

both for about $25. I'm affraid to even look into the Alpine's box. So many small bits.

 

[Apok]

Awesome choice, @Heldenzeit

As for me... well people, you remember how some months ago I was like "damn I'm affraid of these things" and stuff? Well, my will was finally broken. I found a deal on a couple of kits that I simply could not pass up, and with these I am officially in the 1:24 model kit money pit.

One of these:

And one of these:

both for about $25. I'm affraid to even look into the Alpine's box. So many small bits.

Welcome, welcome, make yourself at home.
I'd suggest you start with the Alpine. I've built it and it goes together well as it's a very nicely designed kit. It's actually one of the smallest car kits by Tamiya so it's not that bad for parts.
The Daytona might be a bit trickier. I've not built that exact kit, but I built a regular Daytona by Italeri and it definitely needed some persuading to look right.

I'm currently taking a break from cars and am building various planes and tanks, but you can ask me any questions you may have.
Is Ahmed going to help with painting?

 

[Beerz]

Awesome choice, @Heldenzeit

As for me... well people, you remember how some months ago I was like "damn I'm affraid of these things" and stuff? Well, my will was finally broken. I found a deal on a couple of kits that I simply could not pass up, and with these I am officially in the 1:24 model kit money pit.

One of these:

And one of these:

both for about $25. I'm affraid to even look into the Alpine's box. So many small bits.

Nice purchases! Especially the Alpine, I've always loved that car since I was a young boy. 👍

Have you already purchased the $286.00 of stuff to start the extra detailing?...

 

[Heldenzeit]

Love the Daytona Competizione. I have a 1/18th scale that sits on my desk at work.

 

[Cano]

Welcome, welcome, make yourself at home.
I'd suggest you start with the Alpine. I've built it and it goes together well as it's a very nicely designed kit. It's actually one of the smallest car kits by Tamiya so it's not that bad for parts.
The Daytona might be a bit trickier. I've not built that exact kit, but I built a regular Daytona by Italeri and it definitely needed some persuading to look right.

I'm currently taking a break from cars and am building various planes and tanks, but you can ask me any questions you may have.
Is Ahmed going to help with painting?

Thanks a lot, feeling quite intimidated by this new home. It's very very good to know that you've built theAlpine, if I ever have any question I'll let you know for sure. And yes, I'll deffinitely have Ahmed help me with the paint, I'm not confident enough with the rattle cans yet, specially since this thing is BIG compared to what I usually do.

Have you already purchased the $286.00 of stuff to start the extra detailing?...

Eh, I might say I'm halfway there. I really really need to get some chrome foil and I'm basically set.

Well, no. I need to get a cheaper, easier to put together model to really start with this whole thing. I don't want to ruin any of these. I'll look for a snap tite or a basic shell or something.