Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread

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Been sitting here trying to balance my stuff out. Watching old SCCA races. Started thinking that maybe Group A at 700PP (with racing softs) was too high, but in trying to balance like the N1 Puma GTO I'm finding info online about it's specs and there's no way N1 is at low as I expected. Can't get the PP nearly low enough to go along with my theory of stuff being too high. Seems like the performance differential between Group A and N1 isn't as wide as I thought.

So as is, I think 650-700 is good for Group A and 600-650 is probably where your N1 stuff is with R-Softs as well.

Which leaves me with my US SCCA stuff. I don't really have enough variety of cars to get an idea of what seems right. It seems like they ran DOT slicks (so Sport Softs let's say) in the World Challenge series from the late 80s to mid 2000s for sure. I have my C4 Corvette at 600PP (the cars weren't ZR-1s though) and it feels good and fun. Pretty stock except for brakes and little weight loss. Again, I might be running this a little high because the ZR-1 makes so much power where I think the R9G race cars were using like 250-300hp crate engines.

This might suggest Touring 2 at 500-550 (smaller displacement, NA, Integra, Civics, E36 non-M3 etc) and Touring 1 at 600-650 (your NSXs, 911, Supra, V8s, Turbos etc)

Would love some input on where the various generations of 911s would scale. I've got a range of them in my garage at this point, so just not sure where I should fit them. Old vs new, NA vs Turbo, Big Wing vs factory aero stuff. I know the 993 GT2s would probably be around a 700 but that isn't in the game. And you can't turbo the Clubsport.

Always keeping in mind the tires as they make like a 50PP difference which is pretty big.

Anyway, aside from their use in Custom Races, using general guidelines like this makes it fun to build race cars for the various in-game WTC series.
 
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Been sitting here trying to balance my stuff out. Started thinking that maybe Group A at 700PP (with racing softs) was too high, but in trying to balance like the N1 Puma GTO I'm finding info online about it's specs and there's no way N1 is at low as I expected. Can't get the PP nearly low enough to go along with my theory of stuff being too high. Seems like the performance differential between Group A and N1 isn't as wide as I thought.

So as is, I think 650-700 is good for Group A and 600-650 is probably where your N1 stuff is with R-Softs as well.

Which leaves me with my US SCCA stuff. I don't really have enough variety of cars to get an idea of what seems right. It seems like they ran DOT slicks (so Sport Softs let's say) in the World Challenge series from the late 80s to mid 2000s for sure. I have my C4 Corvette at 600PP (the cars weren't ZR-1s though) and it feels good and fun. Pretty stock except for brakes and little weight loss. Again, I might be running this a little high because the ZR-1 makes so much power where I think the R9G race cars were using like 250-300hp crate engines.

This might suggest Touring 2 at 500-550 (smaller displacement, NA, Integra, Civics, E36 non-M3 etc) and Touring 1 at 600-650 (your NSXs, 911, Supra, V8s, Turbos etc)

Would love some input on where the various generations of 911s would scale. I've got a range of them in my garage at this point, so just not sure where I should fit them. Old vs new, NA vs Turbo, Big Wing vs factory aero stuff. I know the 993 GT2s would probably be around a 700 but that isn't in the game. And you can't turbo the Clubsport.

Always keeping in mind the tires as they make like a 50PP difference which is pretty big.

Anyway, aside from their use in Custom Races, using general guidelines like this makes it fun to build cars for the various in-game WTC series.
You can loo up 996 GT3s form World Challenge or Porsche Cup specs. Those will have suspension settings and power specs. I know I posted in the GTS tuinig thread about the Porsche specs. I'll have a look. Also, there was an R34 GT-R is Speed World Challenge. Wasn't quick, but would be another car to add.
 
You can loo up 996 GT3s form World Challenge or Porsche Cup specs. Those will have suspension settings and power specs. I know I posted in the GTS tuinig thread about the Porsche specs. I'll have a look. Also, there was an R34 GT-R is Speed World Challenge. Wasn't quick, but would be another car to add.
Okay I'll take a look around. I was trying to find info on FIA regulations for these other categories but its all gone. Vanished off the internet.

Funny you mention the World Challenge R34 as I've had a tab open about it for days now and still haven't read it. Doing so now! Edit: Sean mentions the Super Taikyu engines putting out 450 at the crank and SCCA suggesting 3000lb chassis and then they're way off pace. Sounds like bringing the specs up to what my Group A R32s are at (around 550-ish hp and 2750-3000lb, just guessing, do not know real world Group A specs) would bring it in line with the other 700PP stuff. I believe the 2005+ World Challenge stuff started becoming more specialized/less production based at the top class. Pirelli took over from Toyo around then I think and maybe they moved to non-DOT slicks 🤔

But I essentially haven't even thought about the 2000s+ era stuff as a lot of those cars are in the game (I made my Turner Motorsports E46 livery) and that's a lot more $$$, grinding, and liveries to figure out lol

cough Really wish people would make more good replica liveries instead of making the same five Initial D references, Rothmans on every car, and a million other duplicates of every popular skin 10 people have already done before..
 
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Here it is.

I’ve got my ATCC/Bathurst R32s set up like this.
535 BHP/1305kg. PP 605 BHP
Dropping it down to PP 561.65(70% power) 373 BHP/1305kg

..and E30
… it‘s got 332 BHP(High lift Cam and High Comp Pistons - didn’t bore it up and didn’t polish the ports), but only drops to 983kg. No Weight Reduction 4. PP 548.94

Supra
I bumped mine up to 531 BHP And it’s heavy, at 1361kg. PP 549.96
The DTM cars supposedly, had about 330 BHP.

Keep in mind, I’m on the stock tyres for each car. I have the AI use them.
 
Oh wow, you got some real info. I'm about to head to bed so I'll dig in tomorrow.

Spent awhile reading about the '95 (993) Carrera RS CS. Unlike what GT7s info says, it was not the last or most powerful 993 or whatever. Obviously the GT2, but there was the '97 Carrera RS RSR.. Had to spend far too much time trying to figure out if the RS CS and RSR were the same or different due to conflicting info. The RSR is indeed a bit more hardcore as well as has a slightly different engine (with 325hp over the '95's 295hp.) Essentially a non-turbo GT2. Had the big fender flares (which is the widebody option for the RS CS.) The RSR is what was run in the late '90s US World Challenge, at least according to the car grid lists I saw watching a broadcast.

I did do more digging into the old C4 Corvette Challenge as well. Found that the spec Corvette Challenge cars were about 3200lbs with the stock 245hp/340tq engine. I think they ran slicks and basically race brake pads/rotors and that's it? Cars had seemingly full interiors lol Again, only the ZR-1 is in the game, so you have to do some finagling to get the power and weight around there. Unfortunately the fancy LT5 DOHC engine doesn't make the same sort've massive torque so the best you can do is get HP/TQ roughly equal. I suppose you could also dump a bunch of money into engine mods to get the torque up? At 250/250 it puts it around 530PP with Sport Softs. Can bump it up to 550 if wished. Still not sure the details for the SCCA cars that returned to the World Challenge series after 1990.

It could make for a neat vintage (retro?) spec race for a one-off league race or something. Lots of good looking liveries out there with reference pictures waiting to be made. I uploaded the Tommy Morrison #98 car yesterday.

Edit: Here's some very detailed specs on the Supra A70 Group A rally car if someone is looking to make one.

I'm speechless. This historic FIA database might be a goldmine.
 
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@05XR8 Dude.. I cannot believe I just found this site.

FIA Historic Homologation Database

They have almost everything! A 95-page PDF for the R32 GTR! These have INSANE amounts of detail and pics.

1990 Skyline GT-R Group A

1987 Toyota Supra MA70 Group A

1985 Toyota AE86 Group A
(They have separate Group A/N docs for both Levin and Trueno variants)

1998 Honda Integra Type-R Group A

1987 BMW M3 Group A


1985 Toyota AE86 Group N

1984 Chevrolet Corvette Group B

1989 Ferrari F40 Group B

1965 Shelby GT350 Group 3

1999 Porsche 911 GT3 Group GT


1996 Dodge Viper GTS Group GT2 (Found this under Chrysler and not Dodge)

1995 Porsche 911 Carrera RS Group GT2

1998 Porsche GT1 Group GT1

A bunch of Subarus are listed under the "Fuji" and "Fuji Heavy" makers

Not seeing Nissan Fairlylady/300ZX (Z32), R33 or R34. No Mitsubishi GTO/3000GT I think. A lot of Lancer Evos though up to Evo 9.

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Edit: Alright well todays been a real banger. Found the really cool FIA papers and now, my friend reminded me of Archive.org.. So I was able to find lists of SCCA World Challenge Vehicle Specification sheets and Minimum Weights from like 2001-2006.
 
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Something I noticed a couple of days back, and I should see if it was a one-off glitch

I've been playing around with the custom races, at Daytona.
I've tried 700pp, 500pp, and just under 300pp versus Group B cars.

4 laps, with 30x tyre wear and 50x fuel consumption.
The AI pit only once at the end of lap 1, then race around passed the pit entrance at the end of lap 2, to then spend 2 laps trailing around having run out of fuel. I didn't see them pit a second time in all the different variations I tried

With 299pp Autobianchi, the payout is a massive 19,561 credits so I'm well on the way to getting my next purchase from LCD!

It seems that the payout for custom races is based on the old Nxx levels from GTS, but at a significantly lower amount
 
Can anyone confirm a fix on the tire issue?
How do I sell comfort tyres or set sport tyres to AI cars? I have wasted so much credits buying 8 types of tyres for 50 cars and they all reset to comforts, spinning out and having little control.
 
My European GT4 field is coming together slowly but surely. Hopefully they fix the tire issue so I can get some AMG's and Alpine's out there.
Do you have a source for GT4 specs? I found some .pdfs for the American GT4 but nothing about vehicle weights or power. Then again, theres so many like rules and info stuff and pointing to different organizations.. Probably not looking in the right place.
 
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Do you have a source for GT4 specs? I found some .pdfs for the American GT4 but nothing about vehicle weights or power. Then again, theres so many like rules and info stuff and pointing to different organizations.. Probably not looking in the right place.
Its just been trial and error. If the car seemed too fast I would detune it a little.
 
I tried to make a Best Motoring Tsukuba battle video but it's not going how I expected. Even if I start in the rear I still win by 3+ seconds. All of the cars are bone stock (except the Yaris) so maybe I will try to tweak some things to make them a bit more even.

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I tried to make a Best Motoring Tsukuba battle video but it's not going how I expected. Even if I start in the rear I still win by 3+ seconds. All of the cars are bone stock (except the Yaris) so maybe I will try to tweak some things to make them a bit more even.
I think tires are going to help a bit but I do think the AI needs a bunch more work.. Which I'm not sure they usually do with patches in GT?

I haven't raced much in the last few days (damn liveries) but I did an hour long race at Spa with a full grid of my cars. I'm not going into super detail balancing them against each other (which also seems maybe impossible if the system just makes any cars farther back in the grid slower) but I just go off PP.

The race started in heavy rain. I put myself in 20th with the Realtime Integra at 550PP and the rest of the grid was mostly 600-700PP stuff. I blew past all of them relatively quickly. They just could not deal with the rain. In some ways their mistakes felt accurate, and others they were just driving slower than necessary and slamming on their brakes at apexes. Harder than usual.

Even once the track dried out, their behavior was irregular. Like my 700PP old 911 Turbo or R32s would blow past me on the big straight after Eau Eouge and then would slow way down for the entire rest of the track, even the fast sections.

Anyway, I pretty handily destroyed them on Professional. Even having to make pit stops to repair (for smashing in their rear ends when they'd suddenly brake for no reason) or fuel/tire changes. I've had moments in Custom or standard races where they were really good so I don't know what the deal is.
 
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Start messing about in CR again, was recently inspired by the Ginetta G40 Jr Cup Car. Bought a Toyota S-FR, Honda S660 and another Mazda ND MX-5 and tuned them all to 99hp/369pp. CS tires all around, gave each car a sports air filter, exhaust, suspension and aero, along with a ballast and restrictor. The S660 got a turbo upgrade to bring it up to ~104hp then detuned back to 99hp.

Been taking this lineup around Brands Hatch short, Tsukuba and Kyoto Park short and been having a blast with these low-powered pocket-rockets. Drag racing at 90mph down the back straights - good stuff. They all still need some tweaking but so far they seem pretty equal competition.

I figure if I'm going to do stuff with roadcars, my M.O. is try and find a set of vehicles that all share the same tire compound, at least until PD hopefully lets us change that.

Still doing Gr.4 stuff on the side to improve my driving, I think that class may be where my comfort zone is. When my laptimes start getting better I'll move up to focus on Gr.3, but I'm not in a rush.
 
Does anyone know, if you max the downforce on the AI cars does it effect how quickly they corner?

Edit: Tested it out, didn't really notice any difference. Oh, and the tire issue isn't fixed either. And, looking at the replays from the custom Gr4 races I am doing, the AI are not going full throttle down the straights. I have the same power/weight as them but fly past them like I have 50 more hp. Not ideal.
 
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Does anyone know, if you max the downforce on the AI cars does it effect how quickly they corner?

Edit: Tested it out, didn't really notice any difference. Oh, and the tire issue isn't fixed either. And, looking at the replays from the custom Gr4 races I am doing, the AI are not going full throttle down the straights. I have the same power/weight as them but fly past them like I have 50 more hp. Not ideal.
Oh yea, the throttle thing. That was another issue I noticed. The AI never went full throttle when I was watching them. Only ever like 90-95%. Can't remember if that was a race with fuel.
 
Oh yea, the throttle thing. That was another issue I noticed. The AI never went full throttle when I was watching them. Only ever like 90-95%. Can't remember if that was a race with fuel.
Yeah I just did another round of S-FR runs to see if there was any relation between the difficulty settings in the game options and the race difficulty during the CR setup screen. That was what I immediately noticed instead was the throttle thing - I was easily able to get into 5th down the back section of Kyoto short, but the AI would hold 4th just under redline. They also seem to brake unnecessarily even on professional. After a 15min race I had a 6s lead on the guy behind me. Fuel and tyre wear on 10x.
 
Do you guys have a tune database for Gr4-equivalents @05XR8 ? Looks like @R1600Turbo has a fleet already lol. I'm just now getting started after that RX-8 got on my nerves. It seems widebodies might be necessary on some of these cars for the fat tires.
 
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Do you guys have a tune database for Gr4-equivalents @05XR8 ? Looks like @R1600Turbo has a fleet already lol. I'm just now getting started after that RX-8 got on my nerves. It seems widebodies might be necessary on some of these cars for the fat tires.
Outside of the Gr4 cars, I've only made two (Z & Alpine) but I don't use them as AI cars because of the tire issue.
 
I've completed a couple 1 hour GT4 custom races in the last 24 hours and I have some observations to share about the AI. Both were 19 car fields and I started myself in the rear. Right off the bat it was really easy to pass some of them, but once I got into the top 10 their pace picked up and it was a better race. I eventually made my way to the front about 20 minutes in. I had tire wear set at 5x and fuel set to 2x so it would only require one stop for fuel, which I made with 25 minutes to go.

Most of the AI stayed out until the last handful of laps. Unfortunately once I left pit road, the AI cars slowed way down and making up the pit stop time was a cake walk. Once I got back in front they again picked up the pace and stayed about 3-4 seconds back until they pit. What's confusing is that a few of them kept swapping for the fastest lap which was 2-3 seconds faster than me.

In the end, the rubber banding effect is still terrible and I'm not sure if there is a way to make it less noticable. I'm going to try another race with their specs tweaked a little (I have them all set at ~375hp, 3,086lbs) and turn tire wear off to see what happens.
 
I've completed a couple 1 hour GT4 custom races in the last 24 hours and I have some observations to share about the AI. Both were 19 car fields and I started myself in the rear. Right off the bat it was really easy to pass some of them, but once I got into the top 10 their pace picked up and it was a better race. I eventually made my way to the front about 20 minutes in. I had tire wear set at 5x and fuel set to 2x so it would only require one stop for fuel, which I made with 25 minutes to go.

Most of the AI stayed out until the last handful of laps. Unfortunately once I left pit road, the AI cars slowed way down and making up the pit stop time was a cake walk. Once I got back in front they again picked up the pace and stayed about 3-4 seconds back until they pit. What's confusing is that a few of them kept swapping for the fastest lap which was 2-3 seconds faster than me.

In the end, the rubber banding effect is still terrible and I'm not sure if there is a way to make it less noticable. I'm going to try another race with their specs tweaked a little (I have them all set at ~375hp, 3,086lbs) and turn tire wear off to see what happens.
It's too bad we can't set mandatory pit windows for races an hour or longer. That would at least force the grid to pit roughly around the same time, give or take a lap or two. Would probably lessen the rubberbanding effect.
 
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