Gran Turismo Sport Now Officially Supports the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4

I thought the Fanatec CSWv2 also supports all three platforms (with the Universal hub). I actually own said wheel and it does work on all three platforms. The games on PS4 need to developed to work with the CSW but it does work with the system.
 
I didn't see this announced in the V1.15 update. What a difference. Serious feedback and really excellent road feel. Had to turn down my force feedback settings by 10-15 points. Will now need to work on the spring and damper feeback settings.
 
nige48
I didn't see this announced in the V1.15 update. What a difference. Serious feedback and really excellent road feel. Had to turn down my force feedback settings by 10-15 points. Will now need to work on the spring and damper feeback settings.
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Always welcome to share your settings!
 
OGsoda
Always welcome to share your settings!
Click to expand...

My settings differ depending on the car and the specific circuit. i usually start at Sensitivity (Sens) 75 and Force Feedback (FF) 75 and adjust from there. I sometimes have a higher or lower FF value compared to the Sens depending on the car.

For street cars with sports tires I usually increase this to 80 or 85 on each value to avoid oversteer and give some weight to the steering wheel to make it just a bit heavier to steer.

For racing cars i usually go lower Sens 65 to 70 depending on the car and the racing tires used.

Then I adjust for the circuit type. For circuits with "normal" corner radius I use a factor of 100% so a base setting of 75/75 stays at that value. For circuits with tight corners like Autódromo De Interlagos I use a factor of 80%. So for example, the Porsche 919 Hybrid (Porsche Team) 2017 setting for Blue Moon Speedway is Sens 75 / FF 65 but for Autódromo De Interlagos this is lowered to 60 and 52 because of the two very tight corners at the back of the circuit. For Dirt circuits I usually adjust to about 70% which really helps at tracks like Fishermans Ranch.

Hope that helps.
 
I was so excited to see this. I had been anxiously checking with every update. No more crazy oscillating wheel. Default control layout is good and its great to be able to control traction and fuel mapping with the joystick. Overall a very nice smooth feel. I'm interested in hearing what settings people are using with the update(mine are below). Tested with the Nissan GT-R NISMO ’17, Nissan MOTUL AUTECH GT-R ‘16, and BMW M3 Sport Evolution ’89

What a great update, GT500 cars are a blast!

Here are my settings
Wheel
SEN (Sensitivity) AUT
FF (Force Feedback) 100
SHO (Shock) 100 (I'm going to try turning this down tonight, experienced some funny vibrations in some turns when traction control seemed to kick in)
ABS OFF
DRI (Drift mode) OFF
FOR (force) 100
SPR (spring) 100
DPR (damper) 100
BRF (brake force) 40
FEI OFF

In Game
Force Feedback Max. Torque 6
Force Feedback Sensitivity 8
 
You guys didnt have any rumble strip, bump, or tire lock up feeling in your Fanatecs before today, correct? I turned my game on this morning and thought my wheel was broke or something. Im trying to get it to feel closer to what it was like yesterday and the 5 weeks before that so I can then add the other stuff in gradually. All I know is that I cant drive anymore.
 
KingK76
I thought the Fanatec CSWv2 also supports all three platforms (with the Universal hub). I actually own said wheel and it does work on all three platforms. The games on PS4 need to developed to work with the CSW but it does work with the system.
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The CSL Elite's PS4 support is baked into the wheel base, rather than via a hub, since Sony officially licenced it. That said, it does still support the PC just fine, and the Xbox One if you use an appropriate rim (since Xbox support is baked into the rim).
 
I tried these settings (still not sure with torque, but works quite fine for me):
Wheel
SEN (Sensitivity) 054
FF (Force Feedback) 100
SHO (Shock) 100
ABS 100
DRI (Drift mode) -2
FOR (force) 80
SPR (spring) 100
DPR (damper) 100
BRF (brake force) do not have, using v2 pedals
FEI 40

In Game
Force Feedback Max. Torque 4
Force Feedback Sensitivity 5
 
KingK76
I thought the Fanatec CSWv2 also supports all three platforms (with the Universal hub). I actually own said wheel and it does work on all three platforms. The games on PS4 need to developed to work with the CSW but it does work with the system.
Click to expand...
Playstation decided a while pack that they did not want legacy wheel to work on their system. Some games worked project cars but games after the decision were not allowed to work. PS had lame justifcation about needed some verification included that older products don't have.

So what I want to know is should I use the fanatec mode on my drive hub? I guess I will have to play with it tonight.
 
OGsoda
Did you guys notice that you have to break a lot harder than before the patch?

This questions is for the loadcell users btw.
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YES!!!! I was blaming all on steering thinking that I was so occupied trying to get wheel to feel correct that I was just mistaken about brakes.
 
fastone371
YES!!!! I was blaming all on steering thinking that I was so occupied trying to get wheel to feel correct that I was just mistaken about brakes.
Click to expand...

Glad I am not the only one. I had to refit the 65 shore elastometers and put BRF to a whopping 20(!!!). This surely wasn’t intended right?
 
OGsoda
Did you guys notice that you have to break a lot harder than before the patch?

This questions is for the loadcell users btw.
Click to expand...

Yep definitely noticed this as well. May have to adjust BRF a bit but braking also feels much smoother.
 
fastone371
You guys didnt have any rumble strip, bump, or tire lock up feeling in your Fanatecs before today, correct? I turned my game on this morning and thought my wheel was broke or something. Im trying to get it to feel closer to what it was like yesterday and the 5 weeks before that so I can then add the other stuff in gradually. All I know is that I cant drive anymore.
Click to expand...

I had the same experience !!

Anyway, if you have the Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel CSL-E-RW-Manual (you can download it from the Fanatec support site) go to the Tuning Menu starting on page 28.

The biggest change in the feeling of the wheel seems to come from the Force setting in the Force, Spring and Damper settings in 7.3.7 (page 30).

The default for Force under 7.3.7 is 100. You can reduce it to 50 or 60 and the wheel should feel about as it did before except for the vibrations you now have from curbs, bumps, etc.

You will get some vibration in corners if you are turning the wheel too hard and the tires start to slide.

Also the steering wheel will feel heavier if you are pressing on the brake pedal while turning. When you release the brake pedal the steering wheel frees up a bit. I guess this is due to a simulation of the effect of weight transfer under braking vs. under acceleration.

CAUTION: In the case of an impact with a wall or another car, be ready for the wheel to really kick, especially when Force under 7.3.7 is set to a high value such as 100 to 120.

Once you find a comfortable setting for Force under 7.3.7 you can adjust the other settings: Spring, Damper, Sensitivity and Force Feedback to your preferences. I did not notice any effect of changes in the ABS setting.

The Sensitivity and Force Feedback settings should still reflect your choices based on the car driven, the tires used and the type of track (wide flowing corners vs. tight hairpin type corners). I typically increase the Sensitivity (lower number) and reduce the Force Feedback (lower number) for circuits with very tight corners.

Hope that helps.
 
there is just no Tire Feedback from the Road surface to the csl elite Wheel imho. Got A T300rs before and there was alot more grip Feedback in comparison ... But tire grip Feeling just isn't existing...hope they will fix it...
 
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OGsoda
Did you guys notice that you have to break a lot harder than before the patch?

This questions is for the loadcell users btw.
Click to expand...

fastone371
YES!!!! I was blaming all on steering thinking that I was so occupied trying to get wheel to feel correct that I was just mistaken about brakes.
Click to expand...

OGsoda
Glad I am not the only one. I had to refit the 65 shore elastometers and put BRF to a whopping 20(!!!). This surely wasn’t intended right?
Click to expand...

All the same for me. But the problem is that I can't set the BRF cause the option is not available. It's a shame cause I have CSR Elite Pedals (with load cell) but I bought them in 2014 and I think they are too old for the options of this wheel :(
 
Litchi
All the same for me. But the problem is that I can't set the BRF cause the option is not available. It's a shame cause I have CSR Elite Pedals (with load cell) but I bought them in 2014 and I think they are too old for the options of this wheel :(
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Is the Fanatec CSL the only Fanatec wheel that works with GTSport?
 
Mirror_man
it would be nice to see best settings for CSL Wheel... may you guys share yours and tell us how you feel with this new update?
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I have tried many of the settings suggested here so far plus almost every conceivable combination myself while experimenting. I have found nothing I am happy with so far, I wish I had the option to have the exact same feel I had last week, I was good with that. The thing that I hate the most is the way the wheel pushes back at you during a turn, no matter what I adjust I just cant reduce it, this is not what a real car does at all, they could not have possibly made it more unrealistic if they tried.
 
There is no way to get rid of the rattle @ apex when on the limit. It is just wrong my wheel is rattling back and forth while a controller user can achieve an equivalent steering angle and travel through the same turn without issue. There is inherently wrong with this downgrade, oops patch.

RA1784
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO OFF
ABS OFF
DRI -2
FOR 100
SPR 20
DPR 100
BRF 50 (LC)
FEI OFF
In game 0 / 4or5 / 8

...and i like it.
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This is really good, thank you. :cheers:

There are still issues when turning past a certain point that a controller can easily pass with no problem. While anything beyond some arbitrary point on the wheel it vibrates so harshly there is no way to maintain a desired line.
 
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That crazy movements from the compatibility mode have gone. It does not have the central “dead zone” yet. It is very improved than the G29 emulation though. But something that I really did not like it is the very strong vibration and kicks, very strange, in asphalt for example, when you oversteer. The “For”. Adjustment in the wheel is direct related to that but lowering this makes the wheel very loose. Will try to compensate increasing the in game numbers. Any tips?
 
RA1784
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO OFF
ABS OFF
DRI -2
FOR 100
SPR 20
DPR 100
BRF 50 (LC)
FEI OFF
In game 0 / 4or5 / 8

...and i like it.
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Mine is almost the same, but FEI at 10, drift at -3... or -2 and SPR at 0. I think.
In game, 2 and 2 or 3 and 3.
The rattle is anoying, but I was able to workaround it using Brake Balance to the rear and more trail braking and accelerating to help the turning. At least with the RedBull Jr at Maggiore, it worked wonders! I was able to get a 7th place on the leaderboard. Still, I wish they’d tone the understeer rattle down a bit. My neighbour is gonna complain about it too, I’m sure of it.
 
RA1784
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO OFF
ABS OFF
DRI -2
FOR 100
SPR 20
DPR 100
BRF 50 (LC)
FEI OFF
In game 0 / 4or5 / 8

...and i like it.
Click to expand...


SEN on “AUT” is really, really hard for me personally. Too much rotation required to take corners.
 

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